Visiting Camden is very often on the agenda of anyone travelling to London. In particular, if you are in London with your family and have teenagers with you, there is a very good chance that this area will appeal to them! It’s an alternative, offbeat, slightly rock-and-roll neighbourhood – and therefore very cool! The first time I went there, I was 15. It was on a school trip. Camden left a strong impression on me because of its atmosphere and its “underground” style. For those who, like me, knew Camden in the 80s or 90s, I should point out that it has changed quite a bit since then! Camden Market no longer looks like a flea market full of “bad guys”!
Camden Market is now more polished, more touristy, almost “bo-bo” (bourgeois-bohemian)… The market shops have been redone and renovated, and food stalls have taken the place of the old little craft and knick-knack stalls of all kinds. The first time I went back, I was even a little disappointed not to find the old spirit. It’s less quirky, less “a change of scenery”. That said, if it’s your first time in Camden, it’s still a very distinctive area that’s well worth spending a few hours in – especially with pre-teens and teenagers. What’s more, from Camden there is a walk that I really like, along Regent’s Canal. It lets you see a completely different side of London. Very few tourists take the time to walk along the canal from Camden to Little Venice (1 to 1.5 hours on foot). And yet, it’s well worth it! On the way, you can make a detour via Primrose Hill for a lovely distant view over London. Between exploring Camden and the long walk along the canal, you should almost plan a full day (with breaks), or a well-paced long half-day! So? Follow me on this family walk in London, from Camden to Little Venice.
Visiting Camden: the market, its vintage shops and its quirky atmosphere
You arrive in Camden via the “Camden Town” underground station. From there, by taking Camden High Street, you’ll quickly be plunged into the area’s scenery with its decorated façades. As I said above: in the past it was similar, but the paintings weren’t all brand new and the people were more original :-).
Discovering the Caminito del Rey as a family was a truly wonderful experience during our trip to Andalusia with the children. A few years ago, I had already wanted to venture onto this famous Andalusian path, but it was extremely dangerous at the time as it had no safety measures. It was probably the most dangerous via ferrata in the world! But after many years of closure and extensive renovation work, the Caminito del Rey reopened to the public in 2015, now fully secured. There’s no longer any reason to worry. The path is very well laid out and feels solid! We even found it easier and safer than we had imagined! Easier than other via ferratas we’ve done in the Alps.
The “King’s Path” gets its name because King Alfonso XIII of Spain walked it in 1921 during the inauguration of the dam. During the construction of the dam and the El Chorro hydroelectric power station, workers tragically fell using this makeshift and unsafe route. In the years that followed, bold hikers occasionally ventured onto this abandoned caminito, leading to some unfortunate accidents. In short, that chapter in the history of the Caminito del Rey is well and truly closed. You can now walk this path with your eyes closed — well, almost! From the new route, you can still glimpse the old one: you’ll see it’s a world of difference!
To plan your family trip to the Caminito del Rey, a bit of forward planning and organisation is definitely needed, so I hope this article provides you with all the useful information for your visit.
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Caminito del Rey with kids: be aware of the age restrictions!
This is a very important point! Before including the Caminito del Rey in your Andalusia holiday plans, you should know that children under 8 are not allowed on the trail. Children’s ID is checked at the entrance. The rule is strict. In fact, even if your children are over 8, make sure you have their ID with you. It would be a shame to be turned away when your children are the right age. When we visited, Titpuce was 10 and Ticoeur was 12.
We have just spent 3 days in Florence as a family. It wasn’t our first time in the Tuscan capital but it was the first time with our two children. We chose the February school holidays because it is a period with less tourists in Florence. In the spring or summer, I found the city oppressive. Indeed, Florence is ultimately a fairly small city. There quickly is too high a density of tourists because it attracts a lot of people with all the artistic beauty it concentrates!
During these three days in Florence as a family, we took our time. We certainly made a few cultural visits but very few so as not to overwhelm the children with too many museums and too many paintings. I prefer that they remember a few essentials. We therefore alternated visits and walks in the city. Obviously, we tasted la dolce vita, tasted good ice creams and dined in small trattorias. Here I share with you our program for discovering Florence with children, a program that we wanted to be as balanced as possible, between culture and strolling to please the whole family!
Age of children: Ticoeur 14 years old and Titpuce 12 years old. Ticoeur has been learning Italian at college since last September and Titpuce is our little budding artist so Florence was a destination that seemed interesting for both of them.
Travel period: February school holidays. We were very lucky with the weather: bright sunshine every day!
3 days in Florence as a family: our program
Day 1: stroll in the old center, first ice cream and sunset over the city
As I said in the introduction, the historic heart of Florence is not that big. You can discover everything on foot. I would say you can explore the historic heart of Florence from east to west or north to south in just half an hour. In addition, as is often the case in Italy, traffic is extremely limited in the center. Only local residents are allowed to drive through. It’s really appreciable in terms of noise and safety. Florence is a city where it is good to walk with children, without the stress of traffic.
Piazza del Duomo and Piazza di San Giovanni:
For our first walk, we walked near the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore), Giotto’s campanile and the baptistery: a harmonious set of three matching buildings, with impressive architecture marking the beginnings of the Renaissance. And what a pleasure since our last visit: the facades are all beautiful, all clean!
A stone’s throw away, we taste our first schiacciata. It is a specialty of Florence. This is a light, crunchier foccacia served like a sandwich with your choice of filling. Ticoeur and Titpuce really liked it so we chose this snack for each of our on-the-go lunches in Florence (see our good addresses section below). Taking advantage of the sun, we stayed to admire the Duomo square while having a great lunch.
Then, it is time for us to cross the Arno, the river which cuts the city in two, to reach our accommodation located on the other side (Oltrarno).
The Ponte Vecchio:
To go from the historic center to the Oltrarno district, we choose without much surprise the Ponte Vecchio, so known for its small shops on either side. Since the Renaissance, there have been jewelers there because Cosimo I de’ Medici had chased away butchers and other food businesses for a more chic and more hygienic bridge. But it is above all the architecture of the bridge which is interesting with the Vasari corridor above, a passage which allowed Cosimo I to pass from the Offices (his administrative offices) to his Pitti Palace in complete safety. It would be nice to be able to cross this corridor to immerse yourself in the world of the Medici. I love secret passages!
Once in the Oltrarno district and free of our luggage, we walk along the river and taste our first ice cream at the Carraia bridge . We cross back to the other side of the Arno at the Santa Trinita bridge which offers a very beautiful view of the Ponte Vecchio:
Piazza della Signoria:
Head to another unmissable place in the city: the Piazza della Signoria where the buildings from the middle ages are concentrated. We enter the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio to admire the frescoes and sculpted columns (this part is free).
We opt out of taking tickets for the Hall of the 500 because there is already so much to see! In the square, we enjoy the sculptures of the Loggia (it’s also free). We admire the Neptune Fountain, the statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici (the Medici star who had the Uffizi built) and of course Michelangelo’s immense David! In the square, it is a copy of the real sculpture which is in the Accademia Gallery but it really has its effect, especially since we do not plan to visit the Accademia.
Piazzale Michelangelo and the Basilica of San Miniato:
After this artistic and medieval tour, we begin the climb towards Piazzale Michelangelo, famous for its view of Florence. Even though Florence is not very visited in February, everyone present seems to meet in this square to admire the sunset.
But I have a tip for you! You have to go even higher, to the level of the Basilica of San Miniato. Up there, there were very few people: the view is calm and even more romantic in my opinion! We took the opportunity to take some family photos, having learned the lesson from 2023 when we forgot to take photos of the four of us!
As it is Titpuce’s birthday, we return to the hotel to blow out a candle and open the presents. What class to celebrate your 12th birthday in Florence! We then have dinner in a trattoria in the old town to discover Tuscan pasta recipes (see our good addresses section below).
Day 2: the market, Santa Croce and the Uffizi
In the morning, we decide to go to the central market by zigzagging through the northwest of the old town: we pass through Republic Square, then in front of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella with its beautiful colored marble facade:
A stone’s throw from the basilica, for the pleasure of the eyes, we enter an old pharmacy, currently a perfumery: the officina profumo, farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.
The San Lorenzo district:
We then go to the San Lorenzo district, stronghold of the Medicis. Next to the San Lorenzo church is the building of the Medici chapel but we did not plan to visit it because the afternoon will already be busy! We just want to enjoy the atmosphere of the central market and the leather market, located in this same area. The leather merchants are outside, all around the central market hall. Inside, we look at the different food stalls. If to your taste, this is a place to try tripe sandwiches, another specialty of Florence.
As we still have a little time before our visit to the Uffizi booked for 3 p.m., we make a detour to the Santa Croce church. It is a very pleasant and lively neighborhood.
We return to the banks of the Arno to go to the Uffizi for the great artistic visit of our stay!
The Uffizi in Florence:
It can be complicated to take children to such a large museum. How to interest them without boring them? Ticoeur and Titpuce love museums and exhibitions and have been used to these kinds of visits since they were little. I still made sure to adapt the visit for them. As a student, I took a course at the Ecole du Louvre and luckily I learned quite a bit about Italian painting. I therefore took it upon myself to comment on the best-known works of the Uffizi in a simplified manner. Therefore, we did not try the audio guide. I played the role of children’s guide!
We mainly went from famous painting to famous painting, which already took us 2h30! I think 2 hours in the Uffizi would have been perfect for a family visit. The last half hour, Ticoeur and Titpuce were getting a little tired. For adjusting the visit, I recommend lingering in the rooms of the corridor on the east side where the works of Botticelli can be found. In the west corridor, you can go faster so as not to tire the children but you should definitely not miss Caravaggio ‘s Medusa located at the end of the route.
Practical information for booking Uffizi tickets:
We had purchased our tickets in advance to avoid the queue at the ticket office: see the official Uffizi website. Booking online adds a commission of €4 per person but we were afraid of the queue for this famous museum so we preferred to anticipate and I think it’s a good idea. At least the entrance tickets are not very expensive for such a rich museum! The normal price is €12 per adult and it is free for under 18s (excluding €4 commission). Good deal in February: there was a great special offer out of season for a combined ticket Uffizi + Palazzo Pitti + Boboli Gardens + marquetry museum for €18 per adult and free for children! It was perfect ! Please note that you must visit the Offices first to validate the ticket.
The Uffizi in Florence
Piazza Santo Spirito:
After leaving the Uffizi, we had a drink on the terrace on Santo Spirito square in Oltrarno. A place whose atmosphere we really liked. We then had dinner in this same area.
Day 3: the marquetry museum and Palazzo Pitti
Opificio delle Pietre Dure:
In our combined ticket, there was the possibility of visiting this small marquetry museum. Papa Voyage and Titpuce are particularly fans of this technique and working with stones so it was especially a museum for them! In any case, it’s pretty, sophisticated and the museum is not very big. A pleasant visit for a quiet morning.
As we are in the San Lorenzo district, we return to the market because I had spotted a small handbag that I fell for! After all, it was my birthday!
Palazzo Pitti and its Boboli gardens:
This is the second major visit of our stay. The Pitti Palace, located in Oltrarno, is the great Renaissance castle, home of the Medici.
It is very imposing so not necessarily very elegant seen from the outside but what richness inside! The royal apartments are decorated with pomp, a little too much perhaps ;-).
The part called Modern Art didn’t really appeal that much to us. So we picked up the pace and lingered in two other sections which we really liked. First of all, the costume gallery and its fashion museum:
Then, on the ground floor, we were charmed by the immense trompe l’oeil paintings on the walls of the “Treasures of the Grand Dukes” section:
In total, we spent two hours in Palazzo Pitti. We also walked the paths of the Boboli Gardens. These are the palace gardens. It looks more like a large public park than a palace garden but it was nice for the views of Florence:
View from the Boboli Gardens, looking out of town
We were lucky enough to have a combined ticket but if that’s not the case for you, I would say that the gardens are not a must-see and you can just buy the tickets for the palace.
Since we were already on the south side of the Arno and I wanted a beautiful sunset for my birthday, we returned to the viewpoint of the Basilica San Miniato. The light was even more beautiful than the first day!
Florence as a family: our good addresses
Ice cream parlors in Florence:
La Gelateria La Carraia: nice, lots of choice, well located on the river and only €2.50 per cone.
La Sorbettiere: few flavors but it was very good and a stone’s throw from Santo Spirito square which we really like!
Restaurants in Florence:
We mostly ate pasta, so Primi. Fresh pici are a specialty that we particularly appreciated and ate in every variation!
Casalingua: a family and economical trattoria located in Oltrarno.
I’Brindellone: an institution in Florence, also an economical address in Oltrarno (better to reserve a table in advance).
Ristorante Le Cappelle Medicee: a slightly more upscale trattoria located in the San Lorenzo district. Everything was very good but therefore more expensive than the two previous addresses.
To taste the schiacciata :
There are small schiacciata sellers all over the city but I will give you three central and economical addresses. Each time, it is possible to have a glass of Chianti really cheap but we stayed serious for lunch 🙂
I Girone de’ Ghiotti: the most famous spot! The best schiacciata of our stay. At midday, there were few people but just a few minutes later the queue was getting quite long!
I fratellini: right next to the previous one with a little less waiting.
Lo Schiacciavino: in the Santa Croce district
Accommodation in Florence:
We had booked a quadruple room in an exceptional building, rich in period paintings. The room is very dark because it overlooks a small interior courtyard but what a decor! A very Florentine historical setting! It’s a high-end address, more expensive than what we’re used to booking but we had two birthdays to celebrate so we treated ourselves to this luxury!
I should point out that our quadruple room was €200 per night (the maximum of our usual range) but be careful: by doing a few simulations of dates, I saw that the same room could cost more than double per night! In this case, I really don’t recommend it! It’s beautiful but still! What a budget! It’s not worth double. In short, I let you control the price for your dates and personally I would not spend more than €200 per night: Palazzo Giucciardini quadruple room. Otherwise, generally speaking, Florence is not very big so any location in the center or Oltrarno will be suitable for your stay. I have a preference for the area around Santo Spirito Square, a favorite place! For breakfast, the ideal is to do like the locals and enjoy a coffee and a cornetto in a small bar or a pasticceria. Near our accommodation, we liked the freshness of the croissants at Pasticceria Marino but there are lots of similar little places everywhere!
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The advantages of visiting Florence in February:
There are fewer people in Florence in February! Nothing to do with our previous visits at Easter or in summer. The city quickly becomes too full because it is ultimately small. In February, Venice attracts more people with its carnival. Florence is not deserted, far from it, but it’s just right!
Winter is the best way to avoid the extreme heat that Florentines suffer from. It is a city that regularly experiences heatwaves and lack of water.
In February, it’s cheaper: I told you above about the great promotion on the combined ticket that we bought to visit the Uffizi + Pitti/Boboli.
It is easier to find accommodation and prices are considerably lower than in warmer months.
Even in February, we are not safe from big blue skies! However, weather-wise, we were just lucky. Don’t go to Florence in February if you’re absolutely looking for the sun.
What are the disadvantages of visiting Florence in February? Some sites, monuments or museum rooms may be closed for renovation or maintenance. For example, during our stay, Brunelleschi’s famous dome, which covers the Duomo, could not be visited. Our program was already full without being too busy, but if I had had to choose another paid visit, I would have opted for the dome. I visited it a long time ago and it left an impression on me. Finally, there are also some restaurants and ice cream parlors closed but frankly, there are enough left!
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And after Florence?
After our three-day stay in Florence with family, we followed up with two days in Siena. I will soon tell you about our stay in Siena and our tour in the Tuscan countryside! And if you are tempted by other city trips in Italy, you can reread Venice with kids, Rome with the family and 4 days in Naples with kids.
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And you ? Are you planning to visit Florence with your family?
Choose Les 3 Vallées for a family stay? Les 3 Vallées is the largest ski area in the world! A whole program, a whole promise and a question: which resort to choose to enjoy the 3 Valleys with your family? In December, we spent a week skiing there with the children. Ticoeur and Titpuce have been skiing since they were little. They are now 14 and 11 years old. We thought they had the level to take advantage of the incredible 3 Valleys ski area. However, some resorts in the 3 Valleys are more suitable for families than others. I will therefore share our experience with you to help you enjoy the 3 Valleys during a ski trip with the children. And I hope to enlighten you on the resorts that we found to be more family oriented.
The 3 Vallées are made up of the Courchevel valley, the Méribel valley and the valley which is home to Les Ménuires and Val Thorens. The 4 stations that I have just mentioned are the main resorts. If we add the small resorts of Brides-les-Bains, Saint Martin de Belleville and Orelle, that makes 7 resorts in the ski area. In total, Les 3 Vallées offers 600km of slopes! It is enormous ! We skied from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. with just a quick break for lunch in picnic mode. Suffice to say that we took full advantage of the ski area and the ski pass! Here is our feedback on each of the 3 valleys and the main resorts…
The Méribel valley: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family
The advantages of Méribel:
Méribel is located in the central valley of the area. That’s probably why this station is symbolized by a heart. It is in the heart of the 3 Valleys and this is its greatest asset! This therefore means that if you stay in Méribel, you will have as much ease in going skiing towards the Courchevel valley to the east as towards the Ménuires valley/Val Thorens to the west. The connections are very simple and effective.
The pretty trees! In the Méribel valleys, we see a lot of fir trees. The landscape is therefore particularly beautiful thanks to the vegetation. The other two valleys have few fir trees in comparison and therefore offer whiter and more deserted landscapes.
The family atmosphere: we found that there was a family atmosphere in Méribel and that it was very pleasant.
The slopes we liked in Méribel:
the blue slopes “Fawn”, “Biche”, “Mont Vallon”, “Combe du Vallon”, “Venturon”
the red slopes “Marcassin” and especially “Chamoix”
The green trail of animals. Indeed, even if it is really very easy for good skiers, it offers a beautiful slope, quite long, with animal sculptures to admire along the way.
Note that the “Legends” chairlifts are truly incredible in terms of comfort and efficiency.
The disadvantages of Méribel:
The only downside concerns certain slopes: there are slopes that we did not like on the Méribel-Mottaret side and that we could hardly avoid (for example, the green slope “Perdrix”). Also, we found more icy tracks than in the other two valleys. Perhaps just due to weather conditions we had. Finally, on the main slopes of the “Pas du Lac 2” and “Saulire express 2” lifts there were often a lot of people.
In conclusion, Méribel is a very good choice for a ski trip with children, between its family atmosphere and its central location with a pretty fir tree decor as a bonus!
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The Ménuires valley/Val Thorens:
Val Thorens is the highest station. Les Ménuires is a resort located in the same valley but lower down. As these two stations are really very different, I will devote a section to each.
Les Ménuires: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family
The advantages of Les Ménuires:
Les Ménuires, great resort for families : we found that Les Ménuires was the most family-friendly resort in the 3 Vallées area. This is where we encountered the most children during our stay. Other people confirmed to us the family spirit of the resort. The resort’s slogan is “friendly Ménuires” and we honestly found that the station deserved its nickname! We felt very good there.
ESF lessons: only Titpuce took ski lessons with the ESF in Les Ménuires and she found that it was her best ESF experience! The ski instructor was great! There is obviously a bit of chance in terms of instructors but I must say that the welcome at the ESF office in Les Ménuires was very warm and the director very friendly!
The proximity of Val Thorens: as Les Ménuires and Val Thorens are in the same valley, it is very easy to go from one to the other. And the peaks of Val Thorens are an experience not to be missed in terms of high altitude landscape and snow quality (see below).
On the slopes: big favorites in Les Ménuires!
the “Pointe de la Masse” in the morning, with the beautiful view of the summits (black, red and blue slopes to vary the pleasures – for example, we liked “Bouquetin” and “Vallons”). At the top you can see how the gondola works, this allows you to take a little informative break when you arrive at the station. There was also a whole Lego model!
the slopes of the “Becca” chairlift: we loved the red “Becca” slope and there were surprisingly few people there! We took this one quite a lot! The blue slope “Lac des Combes” was very good too.
The blue slopes “Grand Lac” and “Pâturage”
Antigel mountain restaurant: really very good! So yes, it’s still expensive (compared to the restaurants we were used to when we eat on the Italian side in Montgenèvre) but for now, all the restaurants are expensive in the 3 Valleys (if you have any good deals, let me know in a comment!). We mainly had a picnic at the bottom of the slopes but our experience of one lunchtime at Antigel was quite positive: very friendly service and good food. I particularly recommend the trout with Beaufort.
Au Petit Rendez-vous (Les Ménuires Reberty): a brasserie-style menu with, of course, local specialities as well. Friendly welcome and a good lunchtime set menu.
The disadvantages of Les Ménuires:
Further from Courchevel: based in Les Ménuires, it will be more difficult to enjoy the Courchevel part of the 3 Vallées area. Let’s say that without the constraints of the ESF courses it is entirely doable. On the other hand, for only half a day it’s tight. Obviously, there is already plenty to do in Val Thorens and Méribel which are quickly accessible.
What about architecture then? I had often been told that Les Ménuires was very good skiing but not beautiful at all. Well, in the end, I was pleasantly surprised because yes, there are some residences that are not very elegant but they have held up well over the years. There’s nothing really too naughty and it’s not very dense. I also think that the snow front part was well thought out and I liked the sculpture in the shape of a modern bell tower as well as the charm of the little baskets, very vintage ski lifts!
In conclusion, Les Ménuires is a big favorite for us and therefore a very good choice for a ski trip with children, between its family atmosphere and its slopes!
Val Thorens: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family
Val Thorens is the highest resort in the 3 Valleys. It is located at an altitude of 2300m. Besides, we had a bit of a headache when we arrived all the way from sea level. Val Thorens is the resort where we stayed because we found an economical apartment there. But, as you will see below, I do not recommend staying in Val Thorens. Ski there yes, but not sleep there.
The advantages of Val Thorens:
The quality of the snow thanks to the altitude: the snow at the summits really has a different texture! Velvety cotton that crunches under your skis! It’s divine!
The panoramas from the summits: There are many peaks over 3000 meters. We found that the most dizzying view was at Cime Caron. Just the arrival of the cable car is impressive!
Access to the Orelle slope: a pleasant surprise is this very pleasant resort with very good slopes. You have to allow time to pass over to Orelle and come back but it’s worth it!
The possibility of starting very early: as Val Thorens is located above Les Ménuires, we started at 8:30 a.m., before the ski lifts and we descended to the bottom of Les Ménuires where we showed up for the opening of the lifts at 9 a.m. It was perfect for optimizing our long ski days!
Our favorite slopes in Val Thorens: a lot! With a particular crush on the slopes of the Peclet funitel.
The blue slopes “Hermine”, “Tétras” and “Tête rond”
the red slopes “Boismint”, “Col de l’audzin”, “Lac blanc” and especially “Christine” which was often deserted and yet great (its name is a tribute to the Olympic skier Christine Goitschel).
the slopes of the Orelle resort
The disadvantages of Val Thorens:
Not really a family resort: in Val Thorens, there were mainly young students, often very good skiers but frankly dangerously fast on the slopes. Of the entire 3 valleys area, this is where we encountered the most “crazy people”! Titpuce is not yet fast enough or alert enough to anticipate complicated situations at certain track intersections. We preferred to enjoy Val Thorens and its attractions while Titpuce was in ESF lessons in Les Ménuires. With Ticoeur, it was simpler because he has more experience. Even on the green slopes, there were a lot of young adults on snowboards: I don’t think this is ideal if you have children learning to ski on these same green slopes. Finally, in Val Thorens, the party starts very early and we didn’t like having to return to the resort (because we were staying there) in the company of skiers who had drunk too much at Folie Douce and who were no longer very attentive on the slopes back down. Without even the problem of sobriety, the return to the station at the end of the day is truly chaotic: too high a density of skiers on the slopes which lead to the station. Finally, there was too much noise and parties in the residence where we were staying (and in many other residences I think). Fortunately, our immediate neighbors were calm but we could have really been right next to all night parties! I would like to point out that we were in the 3 Valleys a week before the school holidays in France. No doubt there are more families during school holidays. However, it was clear to us that there was not the same atmosphere in Val Thorens as in the other resorts of the 3 Valleys. In conclusion, Val Thorens offers exceptional ski conditions! If your children are very good skiers, we recommend taking advantage of the 3 Valleys pass. On the other hand, we do not recommend sleeping there during a family stay.
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The Courchevel valley: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family
The advantages of Courchevel:
Courchevel beyond the clichés: we had already stayed in Courchevel when the children were younger and we really liked it! We only took the Courchevel package (not the 3 Valleys) and it was more than sufficient at the time. Courchevel is the 3 Valleys resort with the most slopes (108 slopes). In any case, we felt that the density of skiers was lower even when, the previous time, we were there in the middle of the February school holidays. Overall, there are fewer people on the slopes than in the other resorts in the area. There are a lot of very wide slopes with a lot of blue slopes. In short, very pleasant ski areas for children whatever their level.
The slopes we liked in Courchevel:
the blue slopes: “biollay”, “creux”, “altiport”, “pralong”, “col de la Loze”
the red slopes: “Marmots”, “Saulire”
And as always, art makes its way to Courchevel. In 2024 we saw works by Jimenez Deredia, an artist from Costa Rica. In 2026, we have just seen sculptures by Andrea Roggi.
The disadvantages of Courchevel:
As it is the easternmost station, it is very well connected to Méribel. But going skiing in Val Thorens and Les Ménuires would take way too much time if you have to juggle your children’s ESF lessons. Moreover, there are several sites in Courchevel: Courchevel village is central and the connection around 1850 is very fast. Courchevel 1850 is perfectly located but even more unaffordable than the rest of the resort. Courchevel-Morind is really too far away in our opinion and in Courchevel La Tania, we did not have good snow because it is much lower.
The difficulty in finding accommodation: When we stayed for a week in Courchevel, we took advantage of a good deal through my family. Since then, I have often looked at the apartments on offer in Courchevel and I have never found anything within our budget (by far!). But who knows? I’ll keep watching in the future just in case…
In conclusion, Courchevel is a resort that we liked and which offers enough skiing space for the whole week if you don’t want to take the 3 Valleys pass. All you have to do is find affordable accommodation!
The 3 Valleys: which resort to choose for family skiing?
In conclusion, the 3 Valleys is an exceptional ski area to discover with the family! Depending on the age and skiing level of your children, a single resort pass is enough to really enjoy a week of skiing, but the pricing is such that you don’t have to add that much to the family pass to have access to all of Les 3 Vallées. In any case, the extra cost is clearly worth it if your children are good skiers.
Which resort should you stay in in Les 3 Vallées?
To enjoy the 3 Valleys in a family atmosphere, we recommend Les Ménuires (our favorite) then Méribel to be in the center of the area. Finally, Courchevel is the resort that can best be considered without a 3 Valleys package (if you have better luck than us in finding affordable accommodation). As for Val Thorens, it’s a great ski adventure but it’s not ideal with young children.
Our budget:
Below, for information, are our main expenses for a week of skiing in Les 3 Vallées (2024).
Accommodation in Les 3 Vallées:
Small two-bedroom apartment in Val Thorens: €880 (in 2024, the week before the French school holidays!! The UK school holidays fell at different times that year.)
Small two-bedroom apartment in Les Ménuires – Bruyères: €1,300 (the New Year week 2025)
Studio + mezzanine in Les Ménuires – Reberty: €1,600 (the New Year week 2026, by booking at the last minute!)
ESF lessons for 6 mornings: €228 (winter 2026)
Hire of all the equipment for the four of us: €278 (at Ski Republic in Val Thorens, outside school holidays, very friendly), €389 at Ski Republic Les Ménuires Croisette in 2025 and €564 in 2026 at Sport 2000 Les Ménuires Reberty (friendly staff).
Les 3 Vallées family lift pass for the week: €1,340 (New Year week 2026)
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Finally, and most importantly: we will return! For sure ! Especially since we are often lucky enough to have English school holidays later than those in France. Clearly, this is a major asset for enjoying the 3 Vallées without the crowds and on a smaller budget!
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And you ? Do you know the 3 Vallées? What is your favorite station?
During the autumn term-break, we went to Mallorca to hike as a family on this Balearic island that we already knew and that we wanted to discover in a different light. Hiking with the kids in Mallorca was a really good idea! There are easy hikes in Mallorca, suitable for children, but also some more difficult hikes for families used to walking. The climate at the end of October was ideal. We had 22-23°C every day. These are seasonal norms. Obviously, weather is not an exact science so we are delighted to have had very good weather during our week of hiking in Mallorca!
Our 7 hikes in Mallorca as a family:
Torrent de Pareis: hiking in a gorge
A magnificent hike in a very impressive gorge. To get to the start of the hike, the road which goes down to the sea is quite winding and very beautiful (be careful of travel sickness!). At the bottom, we arrive at the sea at Es Calabra. There is then a small path which leads to this mouth marking the arrival of the Torrent de Pareis riverbed:
At this location, there are still tourists who come to see this very photogenic beach. They swim, take photos and leave. However, the most beautiful part is at the back, when you start to go up the riverbed, venturing into the gorge. At the beginning, there are two or three passages where you have to take off your shoes. There are lots of small stones at the bottom of the water… it hurts a little so we take it slowly. Ideally, bring swimming slippers for the start of the hike.
This summer we spent a week insouthern Sardinia with the children. We really wanted to return to this island after our two weeks in northern Sardinia a few years ago. Sardinian beaches and gastronomy were what we were looking for before starting the children’s school year! This time, we chose to make a loop from Cagliari, discovering the entire southern half of the island. We turned counterclockwise but it didn’t matter. It was the coincidence of our accommodations. If you too are planning to discover the south of Sardinia during a family road trip, then here is all the information we can give you!
Age of the children during this trip: 13 years old for Ticoeur and 11 years old for Titpuce.
Period of the trip: we left the very last week of August in order to have fewer people because Sardinia is very busy during the first three weeks of August. Early July would also be a good time (see our previous trip to northern Sardinia).
Weather: We arrived just after strong storms in the Mediterranean. Result? Temperatures were barely above 20 degrees and the sea had cooled down quite a bit. We also had a lot of wind. In the end, while we mainly thought we would enjoy the beaches, we changed our plans and we walked more and took advantage of the hiking trails. We adapted and had a great week! Anyway, the weather is always unpredictable and at least we avoided the heatwave!
Our one-week itinerary in southern Sardinia:
Exactly, we spent 8 days in the south of Sardinia. To carry out our roadtrip, we rented a car at Cagliari airport.
During the Easter holidays, we spent 10 days with the family in Madeira as we were looking for a destination suitable for hiking. So, we did a lot of walking during this holiday! Hikes of all levels that I wanted to describe here to help you choose among the many trails on the island. For those who don’t know us yet, I should mention that our children are good walkers with quite a bit of experience. At the time of this trip to Madeira, our Ticoeur was 13 years old and our Titpuce 11 years old. Here is the detail of our 12 family hikes in Madeira:
Hiking in Madeira: the classics
These hikes are must-dos and real classics because they allow you to discover the island’s most beautiful landscapes and their diversity. They are all quite different in terms of scenery and in terms of the walking level required. They are the most popular hikes with tourists visiting Madeira, so this is where you will encounter the most people. Hence the importance of getting up early or starting them late in the afternoon (I’ll give you the details below). Avoiding peak season is always a good choice as well. We were in Madeira at the beginning of April, which was quieter than during the French Easter holidays and quieter than at the time of the famous Flower Festival in May.
Warning! Since January 2026, you have to pay a tourist tax to hike on Madeira’s popular trails (from age 12). More information on the official website.
1/ From Pico Ariero to Pico Ruivo – very sporty hike – duration: 4h50 – 1250 metres elevation gain
We did this hike at the start of our stay in Madeira because I knew it would require quite a bit of energy. On the first sunny day, we set off for this sporty hike. It is important to check the weather as there can be quite a few clouds and uncertainties around the island’s highest peaks. This is not a loop but an out-and-back between the two peaks. If you get tired along the way, you can turn back before reaching Pico Ruivo. I would say the first half of the route is the most beautiful, and the big climb before Pico Ruivo is long and tiring! We met people who were very exhausted and out of breath. No need to push yourself. Turn back if needed, and you will still enjoy very beautiful scenery. Also, it is possible to go to Pico Ruivo another day with a shorter hike. Returning to the trail from Pico Ariero to Pico Ruivo: it’s the essential hike that will suit families used to hiking without any problem. I classify this hike as sporty because even though the two peaks are roughly at the same altitude (just over 1800m), between the two summits you have to descend and ascend a total of +1250m and -1250m. It’s tough! We took 2h20 to go there, then 1 hour break at Pico Ruivo, then 2h30 for the return. The trail is very well maintained and very safe. You can buy drinks and a few snacks at Pico Ruivo, to recharge your sugar levels and enjoy a cold drink before setting off again.
For parking, we were parked in the large car park below Pico Ariero, about 15 minutes from the start of the hike.
We have just returned from 10 days in Madeira with kids and we have green stars in our eyes! Indeed, it’s crazy how luxuriant the vegetation is on this island! It’s lush! Clearly, for an immersion in green landscapes, this is the ideal place! A natural destination as we like them, perfect for recharging your batteries and also for hiking (which was our primary objective). On the other hand, a warning to all those who prefer beach holidays: Madeira is not the island for you! I will elaborate further below. You also don’t have to be afraid of the rain! And yes, all this vegetation isn’t there by chance ;-). Madeira is located in the Atlantic Ocean, off the coast of Portugal, just above (exactly northwest of) the Canary Islands. But we found Madeira very different from the Canaries, wetter, greener. Perhaps a little resemblance in decor to what I described to you in the north of Tenerife. And in terms of size, it’s similar to Lanzarote but it has absolutely nothing to do in terms of landscape! In short, Madeira is Madeira! And if I continue with the similarities, I rather had the impression of being on Reunion Island, between the vegetation, the mountains, the waterfalls, the hiking possibilities and the rum! But it’s still different (and so much closer!)… Let’s get into the heart of the subject. If you are thinking about Madeira for your next family vacation, I will tell you below what you can do there and you’ll find practical advice for getting organized: accommodation, drop-off points, transport, weather.
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Ages of our children during this trip: Ticoeur, 13 years old and Titpuce 11 years old. Travel period: the first 10 days of April
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What to do in Madeira? 10 activities for the whole family:
Here are 10 things we discovered in Madeira during our stay.
1- Hike along the levadas:
Levadas are the numerous irrigation canals found throughout Madeira. There are more than 2000 km of levadas! These canals were essential for agriculture on this island with its strong reliefs. Many hiking trails allow you to follow these typical Madeiran levadas with the advantage of being level paths! By the way: have a look at my post about our family hikes on Madeira. Walking along the levadas is one of the great attractions of the island!
We followed the levada of the 25 springs and the levada do Alecrim (both combined), the levada Faja do Rodrigues, the levadas Nova and Moinho (in one combined hike near Ponta do Sol), levada Ribeira da Janela near Porto Moniz . For children, these paths are real little adventures because we come across tunnels, narrow paths and waterfalls. Often, the canals pass through eucalyptus forests to the delight for our nostrils!
Warning! Since January 2026, you have to pay a tourist tax to hike on Madeira’s popular trails (from age 12). More information on the official website.
This summer, we visited Santorini as a family during our trip exploring three Cycladic islands. I had some concerns about Santorini as everyone seems to love it but often finds it too crowded. So, first, we aimed for the start of the school holidays in July and second, we decided not to hire a car. We spent 4 days/3 nights in Santorini, as a family, getting around on foot and by bus. When we made the decision to go “car-free in Santorini”, I struggled to find information about whether getting around on foot and by bus would allow us to fully enjoy the island. I found a few articles by solo or couple travellers who had explored Santorini without a car, but I didn’t find any accounts of family holidays. With kids, I didn’t want logistics to become a nightmare. Anyway, let me remove all suspense right now: visiting Santorini as a family, on foot and by bus is totally doable! We really enjoyed this approach.
Why visit Santorini on foot and by bus?
Avoid parking issues in touristy areas (especially Oia)
Reduce pollution on an already natural island which has to deal with a number of cruise ships leaving their engines running 24/7! (Luckily, the number of ships has dropped significantly).
Save a considerable amount of money: just check car hire prices during school holidays and you’ll see!
Take your time, get a new perspective, and go off the beaten track.
Hiking along the Caldera, between Fira and Oia
Now, I’d like to share some information that may help you plan a car-free stay in Santorini. Of course, this means you need to walk, enjoy walking, and have children who are old enough to walk (or young enough to be carried). In our family, walking is a true joy, and you know that Ticoeur and Titpuce have long been little adventurers… If you also love walking, then my tips are for you!
On foot and as a family in Santorini:
First, a quick note about the weather: we had around 26°C during our stay in Santorini. So it wasn’t too hot for walking, especially as we had the meltemi blowing (a north wind). Obviously, if it had been hotter, that would have changed our hiking plans, but bear in mind that the Cyclades usually don’t get as hot as the mainland in summer. We’re not fans of extreme heat and were drawn to the Cyclades for their climate. Still, as always with weather, expect the unexpected.
The hike between Oia and Fira:
This was the highlight of our trip! Clearly the must-do experience on the island! Allow 3 hours one way. It was so magical that we did it twice! The first day from Fira, and the second day from Oia to Fira. And it was the kids who asked to do it again! The whole thing is done 100% on foot! We loved it! Along the route, we made a detour to Skaros Rock. It adds a bit of time, but it’s well worth it:
Our other walks:
From Finikia (the village where we stayed) to Oia: 20 minutes each way. Oia is very quiet in the morning. We went almost every day just after breakfast for a peaceful swim. I was really worried about the crowds in Oia, but it’s only in the late afternoon that tourists arrive en masse to stroll and watch the sunset from the Old Castle. We preferred to go against the flow. For our morning swim, we walked down the 278 steps from the heights of Oia to Amoudi, a little cove where we swam (the water was around 20°C – quite refreshing!). Between the steps and the swim, it was a proper workout! We loved this little morning ritual!
The alleyways of Finikia
Oia
Our swimming spot after walking down all the steps:
Amoudi Bay
Amoudi Bay
Sunset walk above Finikia, near the church of Profitis Ilias for a panoramic view. No regrets about skipping the crowds in Oia!
From the village of Megalochori to Red Beach: after a morning hike along the Caldera, we took a bus from the central station in Fira (a grand name for a small station ;-)) hoping to get to Red Beach in the south. We should have taken a bus to Akrotiri but accidentally boarded one that stopped at Megalochori. No worries! This village, which didn’t look that exciting from the road, turned out to be very charming and lively:
After wandering around Megalochori, we caught another bus towards Akrotiri. To get to Red Beach, the final stretch is on foot. It’s not far. The beach is pretty thanks to the red rock formations. In high season, it must be very crowded as it’s quite narrow. The sea was 22°C when we were there, and not many people were swimming.
Red Beach
From the village of Megalochori to Pyrgos: after returning from Red Beach, we walked along the roadside to Pyrgos, a lovely hilltop village that we recommend for a stroll. We had a drink at Brusco bar and wrote a few postcards to the grandparents.
Pyrgos
From Megalochori to the natural arch “The Heart of Santorini”: the next day, we returned to Megalochori, by bus from Fira which we reached on foot from Oia (are you still with me?). After a short stroll and an ice cream in the village, we walked to the natural arch. It’s not a must-see, but it’s a pleasant walk. On the way back, we stopped by the potter “Earth and Water” who gave us a warm welcome and let the children try the pottery wheel.
From the village of Emporio to Perissa Beach: after our visit to the potter, we took a bus to Emporio, a deserted village when we arrived in the afternoon. After exploring the alleyways, we walked to Perissa Beach (about 30 minutes). It’s a long black-sand beach (7 km) where we strolled before enjoying a drink by the sea. The water was 22°C. Ticoeur and I were fine with that, but we didn’t swim, as we prefer the coves below Oia. We took the bus back to Fira, visited a few art galleries, then another bus to Oia. Then walked back to Finikia.
Emporio
Perissa Beach
By bus and as a family in Santorini:
For some of the outings and walks described above, we started by taking the bus. Here’s some useful info to help you get organised:
A bus ticket costs €1.60 to €1.80 (in 2022), and children pay from age 7.
Don’t rely on the posted timetables! Buses seemed to leave when full (which happens quickly, at least in July).
For reference, here’s the link to the bus company’s website, KTEL. It’ll give you an idea, but don’t trust the times too much.
Don’t rely on the bus route map either – it’s not accurate. It’s better to ask locals where the bus stops. Just because you’re at a bus stop doesn’t mean it’s actually in use!
There are often eucalyptus trees at bus stops – great for shade!
Despite these tips, you’ll still get lost – but that’s a chance to discover new places ;-).
From the port or airport, there are also buses that take you to Fira first. On arrival, just stay calm – the bus will come when it comes. But when leaving, especially early, consider a taxi for the last leg.
Fira is the island’s main bus hub. You’ll often have to change buses there to get around. Staying in Fira is convenient for buses, but we chose a quiet little village in the north because we fell in love with the accommodation. So we often changed buses at Fira.
Most of the other bus passengers were young people, but there were also other families.
And again: we were in Santorini at the beginning of the school holidays. Later in the season, getting around by bus might be tough (crowded, no seats…). But you know what? It’s not just the buses I wouldn’t recommend at that point – it’s Santorini altogether. Personally, I wouldn’t attempt it in August…
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There you go! I hope this article has inspired you to discover Santorini as a family, on foot and by bus! For a broader view of our adventures in these Greek islands, check out my article: The Cyclades with kids: Santorini, Milos, Sifnos. You’ll find our tips and favourite places to stay and eat!
Last July, we went to the Cyclades for the first time. We’d been tempted by these Greek islands for so long! We had already visited several islands in Greece: Corfu, Kefalonia and Ithaca on the Ionian Sea, and also Crete, but we didn’t know the Cyclades yet. We first considered renting a sailboat, but I was wary of the infamous meltem, the strong wind that can be fierce in summer… If I’m not mistaken, Ulysses had some trouble with it… I didn’t want to deal with it: Papa Voyage is a good skipper; I’m not quite a top crew member yet! So, we opted to travel between the islands by ferry. And on each island, we chose to get around on foot and by bus! Which Cyclades islands to choose? We chose Santorini, Milos and Sifnos. Three islands, three vibes. We loved all three for different reasons. Here’s our take on each and the details of our itinerary…
Santorini with kids: 3 nights
We started with Santorini, the most touristy, because we thought it best to visit as early in the season as possible. I was expecting such huge crowds that we were pleasantly surprised. It was not crowded at all! The island was very calm and most tourists gathered only in Oia at sunset – yet there are so many other spots to admire the setting sun!
Santorini, the “pros”:
The caldera, the caldera, and the caldera! You can’t get enough of those views from the edge of the ancient crater! Hiking the trail between Fira and Oia is a must!
The typical Cycladic architecture: little white houses, blue domes, windmills…
Oia in the morning with no one around for a refreshing dip at the bottom of the steps.
Plenty of villages to explore: Megalochori, Pyrgos, Emporio…
Santorini isn’t the island to choose if you’re mainly after swimming spots, so I don’t think it’s ideal for a holiday with young children. Ticoeur and Titpuce enjoy hiking, so it was perfect for us, but for little ones, there are more child-friendly islands! That said, every morning Ticoeur and I enjoyed a swim at Amoudi Bay, a little cove at the foot of Oia (the sea temperature was around 20 degrees).
Oia from 5pm onwards is chaotic: people queueing to take photos at specific spots… If you’re like us and not a fan of crowds, don’t go to Oia in the early evening.
Good addresses in Santorini:
We loved our accommodation in Finikia, 20 minutes on foot from Oia. Those 20 minutes made all the difference! Our village was very peaceful and really pretty, with very narrow alleys. Our Cycladic home was called: The House of the Seven Ships.
In the peaceful alleys of Finikia
As for restaurants, we tried to avoid trendy places. At Taverna Mou (in Finikia), we felt like we were back in our previous trips to Greece. Live traditional music in the evening, small tables, and homemade food. For good ice cream, stop at the The Family bakery in Megalochori.
Milos with the family: 4 nights
Milos mainly tempted me because of the beauty of its coves – and indeed, when it comes to swimming, we absolutely loved it! It’s an island with a history marked by mining. The population was very poor and worked extracting sulphur and minerals. Many remnants of that time still remain. Milos is also the island of the famous Venus! And sorry, we didn’t manage to find her arms!
Milos, the “highlights”:
Swimming in dream locations! Firopotamos, Sarakiniko, Firiplaka, Kleftiko…
The colourful village of Klima!
Milos, the “downsides”:
As on other islands, we got around by bus and on foot, but we ended up walking quite a bit along roads (granted, they were quiet) because there were no pedestrian paths.
Boat excursions were a bit of a headache! It’s a big business on the island and prices vary widely! I didn’t always feel the price matched the service… I’ll tell you more about our experience in my Milos blog post.
Good spots in Milos:
We liked our accommodation in Triovasalos (called “Milos Cottage“, found on Airbnb): a former little shepherd’s house, very simple (warning: it’s really tiny! If you need space, skip it…). Our host Elena was lovely. We did have quite a few mosquitoes… but that might have just been bad luck… Also in Triovasalos, there’s “this flat with a terrace“. In terms of buses, staying in Triovasalos means changing at Adamas; however, it’s convenient for walking to several places. In Adamas, I didn’t find any accommodation that suited us, but have a look anyway. As for restaurants, our top favourite was Ergina in Tripiti (we ate there twice!). Medusa in Mandrakia was also nice, though more touristy.
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Sifnos with the family: 4 nights
Sifnos was the obvious stop between Milos and the Athens port. I’d read it was a favourite island among Athenians, so I was surprised to see that 100% of the tourists were… French!! The island was peaceful, quiet, not too busy so there was no issue with crowds, but it did feel a bit strange – like being in France. I didn’t know the island was so popular among French families. Some even seem to have second homes there.
Sifnos, the “highlights”:
The perfect island for hiking! There are marked trails all over! To enjoy it fully, go in spring or autumn. Still, we explored a fair number of trails and it was really pleasant to walk along such well-maintained paths.
The village of Kastro where we stayed! Note: it’s very small so best to avoid during high season. In July, it wasn’t too crowded.
In the alleys of Kastro
An island mainly visited by families because, although it’s great for hiking, there are plenty of child-friendly beaches: clear, shallow water.
Sifnos, the “downsides”:
The bus connection timetables don’t seem to be well thought out. As we enjoy walking, it wasn’t a problem for us: instead of waiting for the next bus, we often continued on foot. But for families relying entirely on the bus, there can potentially be a long wait in Apollonia.
Recommended places in Sifnos: While we loved Kastro, I wouldn’t recommend our accommodation as it was really too small and had only a tiny outdoor space. I think it would have been fine for two people. But staying in Kastro is lovely, so take a look at what larger options you can find for a family: accommodation in Kastro. To optimise bus travel, you could also look for a place in Apollonia. It’s pretty and lively, even if I prefer Kastro. As for restaurants, we loved eating at Kaptain George, run by a family of fishermen located right at the bottom of Kastro, in the cove where Ticoeur is playing in the waves:
Before or after the Cyclades: a break in Athens.
Summer isn’t the best time to visit Athens, because unlike the Cyclades, it gets extremely hot! But as you’ll likely spend a day or two there before or after taking the ferry, feel free to reread the article I wrote during our previous trip to Athens in spring 2018. For accommodation, if it’s your first time in Athens, I recommend staying in the charming district of Plaka. As this time we were just passing through, I booked a more impersonal and out-of-the-way hotel, but it had a pool so the children could cool off. We could even see the Acropolis in the distance: Athens Panorama Projects. Not a charming hotel, but modern, practical, and good value for money.
Practical information for visiting the Cyclades:
Weather: in July, we had temperatures between 25 and 28 degrees Celsius. The seasonal averages for July-August are 27–28 degrees. Of course, the weather can always surprise you, but we chose the Cyclades because they’re known to be cooler than other southern European destinations, thanks to the local wind (the Meltemi). For me, as long as it’s under 30 degrees, it’s perfect! The sea was 22 degrees in Santorini and 25 in Sifnos and Milos. Tourism: we recommend going early in the season… even Santorini was pleasant! If you have no choice but to travel during peak season, you might skip Santorini and keep Sifnos and Milos on your itinerary, replacing Santorini with a less touristy island, such as Serifos, which lies on the ferry route between Sifnos and Athens, or Folegandros to the east of Milos. Budget: it was clearly more expensive than our other trips to Greece. The ferry prices in particular were very high — especially for a family of four. It’s definitely motivating me to sail next time! Prices vary greatly, especially depending on fuel costs, so I recommend checking fares for your planned routes before booking a trip to the Cyclades. For reference, I booked our ferries a month in advance, but had been monitoring them for three months and saw no change. Fortunately, we saved a lot by not renting a car at all on the islands: lots of walking and a few buses — it was perfect for us! Finally, I’ll soon be writing a detailed article about each of these three islands!
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Have you been to the Cyclades? Which islands would you recommend?
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Along the route, we made a detour to Skaros Rock. It adds a bit of time, but it’s well worth it: 
Santorini, the “cons”:
