This summer we spent a week insouthern Sardinia with the children. We really wanted to return to this island after our two weeks in northern Sardinia a few years ago. Sardinian beaches and gastronomy were what we were looking for before starting the children’s school year! This time, we chose to make a loop from Cagliari, discovering the entire southern half of the island. We turned counterclockwise but it didn’t matter. It was the coincidence of our accommodations. If you too are planning to discover the south of Sardinia during a family road trip, then here is all the information we can give you!
Age of the children during this trip: 13 years old for Ticoeur and 11 years old for Titpuce.
Period of the trip: we left the very last week of August in order to have fewer people because Sardinia is very busy during the first three weeks of August. Early July would also be a good time (see our previous trip to northern Sardinia).
Weather: We arrived just after strong storms in the Mediterranean. Result? Temperatures were barely above 20 degrees and the sea had cooled down quite a bit. We also had a lot of wind. In the end, while we mainly thought we would enjoy the beaches, we changed our plans and we walked more and took advantage of the hiking trails. We adapted and had a great week! Anyway, the weather is always unpredictable and at least we avoided the heatwave!
Our one-week itinerary in southern Sardinia:
Exactly, we spent 8 days in the south of Sardinia. To carry out our roadtrip, we rented a car at Cagliari airport. (more…)
We have just returned from 10 days in Madeira with kids and we have green stars in our eyes! Indeed, it’s crazy how luxuriant the vegetation is on this island! It’s lush! Clearly, for an immersion in green landscapes, this is the ideal place! A natural destination as we like them, perfect for recharging your batteries and also for hiking (which was our primary objective). On the other hand, a warning to all those who prefer beach holidays: Madeira is not the island for you! I will elaborate further below. You also don’t have to be afraid of the rain! And yes, all this vegetation isn’t there by chance ;-). Madeira is located in the Atlantic Ocean, off the coast of Portugal, just above (exactly northwest of) the Canary Islands. But we found Madeira very different from the Canaries, wetter, greener. Perhaps a little resemblance in decor to what I described to you in the north of Tenerife. And in terms of size, it’s similar to Lanzarote but it has absolutely nothing to do in terms of landscape! In short, Madeira is Madeira! And if I continue with the similarities, I rather had the impression of being on Reunion Island, between the vegetation, the mountains, the waterfalls, the hiking possibilities and the rum! But it’s still different (and so much closer!)… Let’s get into the heart of the subject. If you are thinking about Madeira for your next family vacation, I will tell you below what you can do there and you’ll find practical advice for getting organized: accommodation, drop-off points, transport, weather.
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Ages of our children during this trip: Ticoeur, 13 years old and Titpuce 11 years old. Travel period: the first 10 days of April
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What to do in Madeira? 10 activities for the whole family:
Here are 10 things we discovered in Madeira during our stay.
1- Hike along the levadas:
Levadas are the numerous irrigation canals found throughout Madeira. There are more than 2000 km of levadas! These canals were essential for agriculture on this island with its strong reliefs. Many hiking trails allow you to follow these typical Madeiran levadas with the advantage of being level paths! Walking along the levadas is one of the great attractions of the island! We followed the levada of the 25 springs and the levada do Alecrim (both combined), the levada Faja do Rodrigues, the levadas Nova and Moinho (in one combined hike near Ponta do Sol), levada Ribeira da Janela near Porto Moniz . For children, these paths are real little adventures because we come across tunnels, narrow paths and waterfalls. Often, the canals pass through eucalyptus forests to the delight of our nostrils!
This summer, we visited Santorini as a family during our trip exploring three Cycladic islands. I had some concerns about Santorini as everyone seems to love it but often finds it too crowded. So, first, we aimed for the start of the school holidays in July and second, we decided not to hire a car. We spent 4 days/3 nights in Santorini, as a family, getting around on foot and by bus. When we made the decision to go “car-free in Santorini”, I struggled to find information about whether getting around on foot and by bus would allow us to fully enjoy the island. I found a few articles by solo or couple travellers who had explored Santorini without a car, but I didn’t find any accounts of family holidays. With kids, I didn’t want logistics to become a nightmare. Anyway, let me remove all suspense right now: visiting Santorini as a family, on foot and by bus is totally doable! We really enjoyed this approach.
Why visit Santorini on foot and by bus?
Avoid parking issues in touristy areas (especially Oia)
Reduce pollution on an already natural island which has to deal with a number of cruise ships leaving their engines running 24/7! (Luckily, the number of ships has dropped significantly).
Save a considerable amount of money: just check car hire prices during school holidays and you’ll see!
Take your time, get a new perspective, and go off the beaten track.
Hiking along the Caldera, between Fira and Oia
Now, I’d like to share some information that may help you plan a car-free stay in Santorini. Of course, this means you need to walk, enjoy walking, and have children who are old enough to walk (or young enough to be carried). In our family, walking is a true joy, and you know that Ticoeur and Titpuce have long been little adventurers… If you also love walking, then my tips are for you!
On foot and as a family in Santorini:
First, a quick note about the weather: we had around 26°C during our stay in Santorini. So it wasn’t too hot for walking, especially as we had the meltemi blowing (a north wind). Obviously, if it had been hotter, that would have changed our hiking plans, but bear in mind that the Cyclades usually don’t get as hot as the mainland in summer. We’re not fans of extreme heat and were drawn to the Cyclades for their climate. Still, as always with weather, expect the unexpected.
The hike between Oia and Fira:
This was the highlight of our trip! Clearly the must-do experience on the island! Allow 3 hours one way. It was so magical that we did it twice! The first day from Fira, and the second day from Oia to Fira. And it was the kids who asked to do it again! The whole thing is done 100% on foot! We loved it! Along the route, we made a detour to Skaros Rock. It adds a bit of time, but it’s well worth it:
Our other walks:
From Finikia (the village where we stayed) to Oia: 20 minutes each way. Oia is very quiet in the morning. We went almost every day just after breakfast for a peaceful swim. I was really worried about the crowds in Oia, but it’s only in the late afternoon that tourists arrive en masse to stroll and watch the sunset from the Old Castle. We preferred to go against the flow. For our morning swim, we walked down the 278 steps from the heights of Oia to Amoudi, a little cove where we swam (the water was around 20°C – quite refreshing!). Between the steps and the swim, it was a proper workout! We loved this little morning ritual!
The alleyways of Finikia
Oia
Our swimming spot after walking down all the steps:
Amoudi Bay
Amoudi Bay
Sunset walk above Finikia, near the church of Profitis Ilias for a panoramic view. No regrets about skipping the crowds in Oia!
From the village of Megalochori to Red Beach: after a morning hike along the Caldera, we took a bus from the central station in Fira (a grand name for a small station ;-)) hoping to get to Red Beach in the south. We should have taken a bus to Akrotiri but accidentally boarded one that stopped at Megalochori. No worries! This village, which didn’t look that exciting from the road, turned out to be very charming and lively:
After wandering around Megalochori, we caught another bus towards Akrotiri. To get to Red Beach, the final stretch is on foot. It’s not far. The beach is pretty thanks to the red rock formations. In high season, it must be very crowded as it’s quite narrow. The sea was 22°C when we were there, and not many people were swimming.
Red Beach
From the village of Megalochori to Pyrgos: after returning from Red Beach, we walked along the roadside to Pyrgos, a lovely hilltop village that we recommend for a stroll. We had a drink at Brusco bar and wrote a few postcards to the grandparents.
Pyrgos
From Megalochori to the natural arch “The Heart of Santorini”: the next day, we returned to Megalochori, by bus from Fira which we reached on foot from Oia (are you still with me?). After a short stroll and an ice cream in the village, we walked to the natural arch. It’s not a must-see, but it’s a pleasant walk. On the way back, we stopped by the potter “Earth and Water” who gave us a warm welcome and let the children try the pottery wheel.
From the village of Emporio to Perissa Beach: after our visit to the potter, we took a bus to Emporio, a deserted village when we arrived in the afternoon. After exploring the alleyways, we walked to Perissa Beach (about 30 minutes). It’s a long black-sand beach (7 km) where we strolled before enjoying a drink by the sea. The water was 22°C. Ticoeur and I were fine with that, but we didn’t swim, as we prefer the coves below Oia. We took the bus back to Fira, visited a few art galleries, then another bus to Oia. Then walked back to Finikia.
Emporio
Perissa Beach
By bus and as a family in Santorini:
For some of the outings and walks described above, we started by taking the bus. Here’s some useful info to help you get organised:
A bus ticket costs €1.60 to €1.80 (in 2022), and children pay from age 7.
Don’t rely on the posted timetables! Buses seemed to leave when full (which happens quickly, at least in July).
For reference, here’s the link to the bus company’s website, KTEL. It’ll give you an idea, but don’t trust the times too much.
Don’t rely on the bus route map either – it’s not accurate. It’s better to ask locals where the bus stops. Just because you’re at a bus stop doesn’t mean it’s actually in use!
There are often eucalyptus trees at bus stops – great for shade!
Despite these tips, you’ll still get lost – but that’s a chance to discover new places ;-).
From the port or airport, there are also buses that take you to Fira first. On arrival, just stay calm – the bus will come when it comes. But when leaving, especially early, consider a taxi for the last leg.
Fira is the island’s main bus hub. You’ll often have to change buses there to get around. Staying in Fira is convenient for buses, but we chose a quiet little village in the north because we fell in love with the accommodation. So we often changed buses at Fira.
Most of the other bus passengers were young people, but there were also other families.
And again: we were in Santorini at the beginning of the school holidays. Later in the season, getting around by bus might be tough (crowded, no seats…). But you know what? It’s not just the buses I wouldn’t recommend at that point – it’s Santorini altogether. Personally, I wouldn’t attempt it in August…
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There you go! I hope this article has inspired you to discover Santorini as a family, on foot and by bus! For a broader view of our adventures in these Greek islands, check out my article: The Cyclades with kids: Santorini, Milos, Sifnos. You’ll find our tips and favourite places to stay and eat!
Last July, we went to the Cyclades for the first time. We’d been tempted by these Greek islands for so long! We had already visited several islands in Greece: Corfu, Kefalonia and Ithaca on the Ionian Sea, and also Crete, but we didn’t know the Cyclades yet. We first considered renting a sailboat, but I was wary of the infamous meltem, the strong wind that can be fierce in summer… If I’m not mistaken, Ulysses had some trouble with it… I didn’t want to deal with it: Papa Voyage is a good skipper; I’m not quite a top crew member yet! So, we opted to travel between the islands by ferry. And on each island, we chose to get around on foot and by bus! Which Cyclades islands to choose? We chose Santorini, Milos and Sifnos. Three islands, three vibes. We loved all three for different reasons. Here’s our take on each and the details of our itinerary…
Santorini with kids: 3 nights
We started with Santorini, the most touristy, because we thought it best to visit as early in the season as possible. I was expecting such huge crowds that we were pleasantly surprised. It was not crowded at all! The island was very calm and most tourists gathered only in Oia at sunset – yet there are so many other spots to admire the setting sun!
Santorini, the “pros”:
The caldera, the caldera, and the caldera! You can’t get enough of those views from the edge of the ancient crater! Hiking the trail between Fira and Oia is a must!
The typical Cycladic architecture: little white houses, blue domes, windmills…
Oia in the morning with no one around for a refreshing dip at the bottom of the steps.
Plenty of villages to explore: Megalochori, Pyrgos, Emporio…
Santorini isn’t the island to choose if you’re mainly after swimming spots, so I don’t think it’s ideal for a holiday with young children. Ticoeur and Titpuce enjoy hiking, so it was perfect for us, but for little ones, there are more child-friendly islands! That said, every morning Ticoeur and I enjoyed a swim at Amoudi Bay, a little cove at the foot of Oia (the sea temperature was around 20 degrees).
Oia from 5pm onwards is chaotic: people queueing to take photos at specific spots… If you’re like us and not a fan of crowds, don’t go to Oia in the early evening.
Good addresses in Santorini:
We loved our accommodation in Finikia, 20 minutes on foot from Oia. Those 20 minutes made all the difference! Our village was very peaceful and really pretty, with very narrow alleys. Our Cycladic home was called: The House of the Seven Ships.
In the peaceful alleys of Finikia
As for restaurants, we tried to avoid trendy places. At Taverna Mou (in Finikia), we felt like we were back in our previous trips to Greece. Live traditional music in the evening, small tables, and homemade food. For good ice cream, stop at the The Family bakery in Megalochori.
Milos with the family: 4 nights
Milos mainly tempted me because of the beauty of its coves – and indeed, when it comes to swimming, we absolutely loved it! It’s an island with a history marked by mining. The population was very poor and worked extracting sulphur and minerals. Many remnants of that time still remain. Milos is also the island of the famous Venus! And sorry, we didn’t manage to find her arms!
Milos, the “highlights”:
Swimming in dream locations! Firopotamos, Sarakiniko, Firiplaka, Kleftiko…
The colourful village of Klima!
Milos, the “downsides”:
As on other islands, we got around by bus and on foot, but we ended up walking quite a bit along roads (granted, they were quiet) because there were no pedestrian paths.
Boat excursions were a bit of a headache! It’s a big business on the island and prices vary widely! I didn’t always feel the price matched the service… I’ll tell you more about our experience in my Milos blog post.
Good spots in Milos:
We liked our accommodation in Triovasalos (called “Milos Cottage“, found on Airbnb): a former little shepherd’s house, very simple (warning: it’s really tiny! If you need space, skip it…). Our host Elena was lovely. We did have quite a few mosquitoes… but that might have just been bad luck… Also in Triovasalos, there’s “this flat with a terrace“. In terms of buses, staying in Triovasalos means changing at Adamas; however, it’s convenient for walking to several places. In Adamas, I didn’t find any accommodation that suited us, but have a look anyway. As for restaurants, our top favourite was Ergina in Tripiti (we ate there twice!). Medusa in Mandrakia was also nice, though more touristy.
Sifnos with the family: 4 nights
Sifnos was the obvious stop between Milos and the Athens port. I’d read it was a favourite island among Athenians, so I was surprised to see that 100% of the tourists were… French!! The island was peaceful, quiet, not too busy so there was no issue with crowds, but it did feel a bit strange – like being in France. I didn’t know the island was so popular among French families. Some even seem to have second homes there.
Sifnos, the “highlights”:
The perfect island for hiking! There are marked trails all over! To enjoy it fully, go in spring or autumn. Still, we explored a fair number of trails and it was really pleasant to walk along such well-maintained paths.
The village of Kastro where we stayed! Note: it’s very small so best to avoid during high season. In July, it wasn’t too crowded.
In the alleys of Kastro
An island mainly visited by families because, although it’s great for hiking, there are plenty of child-friendly beaches: clear, shallow water.
Sifnos, the “downsides”:
The bus connection timetables don’t seem to be well thought out. As we enjoy walking, it wasn’t a problem for us: instead of waiting for the next bus, we often continued on foot. But for families relying entirely on the bus, there can potentially be a long wait in Apollonia.
Recommended places in Sifnos: While we loved Kastro, I wouldn’t recommend our accommodation as it was really too small and had only a tiny outdoor space. I think it would have been fine for two people. But staying in Kastro is lovely, so take a look at what larger options you can find for a family: accommodation in Kastro. To optimise bus travel, you could also look for a place in Apollonia. It’s pretty and lively, even if I prefer Kastro. As for restaurants, we loved eating at Kaptain George, run by a family of fishermen located right at the bottom of Kastro, in the cove where Ticoeur is playing in the waves:
Before or after the Cyclades: a break in Athens.
Summer isn’t the best time to visit Athens, because unlike the Cyclades, it gets extremely hot! But as you’ll likely spend a day or two there before or after taking the ferry, feel free to reread the article I wrote during our previous trip to Athens in spring 2018. For accommodation, if it’s your first time in Athens, I recommend staying in the charming district of Plaka. As this time we were just passing through, I booked a more impersonal and out-of-the-way hotel, but it had a pool so the children could cool off. We could even see the Acropolis in the distance: Athens Panorama Projects. Not a charming hotel, but modern, practical, and good value for money.
Practical information for visiting the Cyclades:
Weather: in July, we had temperatures between 25 and 28 degrees Celsius. The seasonal averages for July-August are 27–28 degrees. Of course, the weather can always surprise you, but we chose the Cyclades because they’re known to be cooler than other southern European destinations, thanks to the local wind (the Meltemi). For me, as long as it’s under 30 degrees, it’s perfect! The sea was 22 degrees in Santorini and 25 in Sifnos and Milos. Tourism: we recommend going early in the season… even Santorini was pleasant! If you have no choice but to travel during peak season, you might skip Santorini and keep Sifnos and Milos on your itinerary, replacing Santorini with a less touristy island, such as Serifos, which lies on the ferry route between Sifnos and Athens, or Folegandros to the east of Milos. Budget: it was clearly more expensive than our other trips to Greece. The ferry prices in particular were very high — especially for a family of four. It’s definitely motivating me to sail next time! Prices vary greatly, especially depending on fuel costs, so I recommend checking fares for your planned routes before booking a trip to the Cyclades. For reference, I booked our ferries a month in advance, but had been monitoring them for three months and saw no change. Fortunately, we saved a lot by not renting a car at all on the islands: lots of walking and a few buses — it was perfect for us! Finally, I’ll soon be writing a detailed article about each of these three islands!
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Have you been to the Cyclades? Which islands would you recommend?
It was not our first time in Andalusia but it was our first trip to Andalusia with the kids. We went there during the Easter holidays, making sure not to be there during Semana Santa to avoid the crowds and find accommodation more easily, at lower prices. However, we saw the preparations for the decorations for Semana Santa so it was interesting to show this aspect to the children. Between the landscapes, the sunny weather, the architecture of the cities and the Spanish cuisine, it has been a great trip!
Our itinerary for a week in Andalusia
In the introduction, I would like to point out that the choice of our stays would not have been the same in the case of a very first trip to Andalusia. I will therefore first present our itinerary and then tell you what you could add if you are visiting Andalusia for the first time.
Day 1: Málaga
Malaga was the first stop on our trip to Andalusia. We didn’t know this city and we really liked it. To start off slowly, we went for churros and chocolate for breakfast at Tejeringo’s. Then, we admired the cathedral from the outside.
After the cathedral, we decided to visit the Alcazaba. This palace-fortress dates from the 11th century and its various patios are charming. Obviously, it’s not comparable to the Alcazar of Seville or the Alhambra of Granada but it’s pretty and it’s worth it!
Then we have lunch at the market. There are small tables outside and it is possible to order tapas.
Afterwards, we visit the Picasso museum. This is his birthplace. The collection does not present the most well-known works but that is precisely what I find interesting.
We continue our walk in the city:
We pose in front of the cube of the small Pompidou museum but we do not visit it.
Right before dinner we went to see a flamenco show at Tabloa Alegria. The dancing was very good, impressive. The place, less friendly than other places where I had seen flamenco in Seville. The bottom line is that we had a great time. Moreover, for the children it was completely new!
For dinner, we stopped by chance at a very typical tapas bar: La Tranca. It was really good. As for accommodation in Malaga, we slept in the historic center (it was perfect for doing everything on foot!). We booked the room with patio here .
Day 2: Malaga then Vejer de la Frontera
After the same chocolate churros as the day before, we visit the glass museum. A favorite ! This is a huge private collection of glass objects. We had a tour in French with lots of stories and anecdotes. And what’s more, the villa is superb! Clearly a visit not to be missed during your visit to Malaga. See opening hours on their website.
Car rental in Malaga:
On site, we called several car rental companies and we had a good feeling with Miami Hire. They arranged to meet us at the station to leave the car (a Fiat 500) with us. Everything went well. We recommend them. We then take the road along the coast towards the east to visit a white village that we did not yet know and which is located just before the city of Cádiz: Vejer de la Frontera. Magnificent!
In the evening we reach Cádiz.
Day 3:Cádiz and Jerez de la Frontera .
Cadiz, a discovery, a favorite! Here is a town in Andalusia that we didn’t know. It turned out to be very pleasant. In fact, there are no major visits to do but it’s just very aesthetic; the facades are very beautiful…
We climb the Tavira Tower for a small panoramic view and also for its dark room which allows a little optical show.
In Cádiz, the room we rented was simple but located in a very beautiful building. We recommend this address: Casa Patio del Pandora. The patio was particularly pretty:
Leaving Cádiz, we cross an impressive bridge:
Then we drive to Jerez de la Frontera to visit a bodega. Yes, Papa Voyage is a fan of Jerez wines! The tour in French and Spanish was very interesting and the tasting, too! We recommend Bodega Diez Meritos:
In the evening we reach Seville for the night.
Day 4 : Seville , still the most beautiful!
Without doubt the most beautiful city in Andalusia! It’s already my third time there and I can’t get enough of it! I will write a post dedicated to visiting Seville combining our various experiences there. This time we spent two nights there. We stayed in this apartment, in the old town.
Plaza de España , Seville
Day 5: El Caminito del Rey then Ronda
During my previous stays, it was no longer open to the public because major work had been undertaken to make the place safe. Now, rest assured: it’s really safe!! Visiting this canyon on the footbridge is definitely worth it! Please note: it requires a little anticipation to book the visit. I will write a complete guide to our experience on the Caminito del Rey! The children loved it!
At the end of the day, we reach Ronda, which we know well. We enjoy the beautiful light of the setting sun:
The gardens of Ronda…
Our accommodation was just outside the fortification, in a lovely area. A very typical accommodation that we really liked with its series of small terraces: Ronda Romantica Loft. We were in the duplex apartment.
Day 6: Andalusian white villages
We had already visited quite a few white villages during our various stays. We did a mix between revisiting villages we loved and discovering new ones. Here are the villages where we stopped this time: Setenil de las Bodegas. It’s very small but it’s impressive:
Then direction Montejaque which we did not yet know:
Mini hike to the Gato cave to stretch our legs: a lovely site! Grazalema with its rock which watches over the village… We have lunch there (at the La Maroma restaurant, not light but very good!).
Return to Ronda for a quiet late afternoon. Discovery of an excellent little tapas bar: Entrevinos.
Day 7 : El Torcal de Antequera
I was hesitant before visiting this place because there are actually similar landscapes in England but still it was worth it! Indeed, the site is impressive and we can never get tired of this kind of natural wonder! And the density of stones is particularly great in Torcal de Antequera. We did a two-hour hike, partly on the yellow path and partly on a path improvised by Papa Voyage!
And the circle is complete ! Head to Malaga airport!
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Other tips for a trip to Andalusia with children:
As I said above, this was not a first stay in Andalusia. If you don’t know this region, you shouldn’t miss Granada and its Alhambra or the city of Cordoba and its mosque. I strongly advise against visiting this corner of Spain in the middle of summer. I did it once and won’t do it again! It was so hot that it was impossible to walk through the white villages and the countryside was all dry and yellow. Also, spring is truly a great season for flowers on patios and green landscapes. And what are the children’s opinions? According to Ticoeur and Titpuce, here are the advantages of this trip to Andalusia: beautiful exotic visits, adventure with the Caminito del Rey and then the tapas!
Along the route, we made a detour to Skaros Rock. It adds a bit of time, but it’s well worth it: 
Santorini, the “cons”:
