Palm House de Kew Gardens derrière des massifs de fleurs

Kew Gardens: seeing the main key attractions in half a day

Is it possible to visit Kew Gardens in half a day? Yes, we tested and approved it! Between the large glasshouses, the different gardens, the viewpoints and the “monuments” of Kew Gardens, it’s absolutely possible to enjoy a very lovely first visit in just a few hours, without feeling like you’re rushing. I’d say you need to allow 3 to 4 hours to discover London’s magnificent botanical garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

To do that, it’s best to focus on the key attractions at Kew Gardens. In this article, I’m suggesting a simple route to discover the most impressive spots in the gardens. The idea isn’t to tick everything off, but to see what makes Kew unique: its iconic glasshouses, elegant avenues, immersive spaces and landmark spots.

If you’re visiting London for only a few days, you probably won’t have more than half a day to dedicate to Kew Gardens. I’d even say that Kew Gardens will only be part of your London programme if this isn’t your first stay in London. I visited London many times before going to Kew Gardens, but this visit was enchanting – a green interlude, very different from central London. Since then, we’ve been back to Kew Gardens other times, as a family. In fact, we’ve just spent our Sunday afternoon there for the Orchid Festival, which I’ll tell you about further down.

Here are the main key attractions at Kew Gardens to see if you only have half a day.

Kew Gardens: our key attractions in half a day

The tropical glasshouse: Palm House

This is Kew Gardens’ best-known glasshouse. It’s a magnificent tropical glasshouse dating from the Victorian era. Inside, you’ll find huge palm trees and tropical plants, notably from Madagascar, as well as coffee plants, cacao trees, oil palms and rubber trees. Architecturally, the glasshouse has lovely Victorian spiral staircases, as well as a walkway that lets you admire the plants from above. Note: the Palm House will close for major works from 2027, for 5 years!

Palm House at Kew Gardens behind flower beds

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Plage de Porto Katsiki au pied de hautes falaises blanches

3 days on the island of Lefkada with the family

Lefkada is the latest Greek island we discovered as a family. It’s part of the Ionian Islands and is particularly easy to reach since you can get there by car via a bridge. Handy! This means you can easily combine a holiday in mainland Greece with a little beach break. As always with the Greek islands, the colour of the sea is superb – a turquoise blue that instantly makes you smile! Lefkada also has the advantage of being large enough to stay for a few days. Besides the beaches, the island offers mountainous landscapes and therefore some very pretty viewpoints all over the place. You can discover them by car or, like us, on a hike.

Let’s set off to discover Lefkada with the children!

Porto Katsiki cove with turquoise water, framed by white cliffs and pine trees
Porto Katsiki beach: our favourite beach on Lefkada!

Lefkada as a family: the beaches

To put it simply, there are the beaches on the west coast, the most beautiful – real postcard scenery but potentially a bit choppy – and there are the beaches on the east coast: nice, less paradise-like, but with very calm water.

The west coast beaches:

Kathisma Beach: a beach located in the north-west of Lefkada, near Agios Nikitas where we were staying (see our addresses further down). It’s a very beautiful beach, not to be missed at sunset.

Kathisma Beach at sunset with waves rolling in from the Ionian Sea

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Gorges de Vikos encadrées par de hautes falaises

Greece: the Vikos Gorge hike as a family

During the October half-term holidays, we visited the region of the Vikos Gorge during our road trip in northern Greece (Epirus). We were keen to go hiking and to discover a part of Greece that is still relatively unknown. The Vikos Gorge turned out to be an excellent choice! With the autumn colours, it was particularly beautiful. We stayed there for two days. Three days would have been more relaxed. Below, I’ll explain how to do the main hike in the Vikos Gorge and also show you the other places not to be missed. Finally, I’ll tell you about the lovely village of Papingo, our base camp.

The Vikos Gorge, in the Zagori region of Greece, is one of the deepest canyons in Europe, with almost 1,000 m of depth over 27 km in length.

Age of our children/teenagers: 13 and 16.

Travel period: late October.

Our family hikes in the Vikos Gorge

The Vikos Gorge, from Vikos to Monodendri ❤

12 km – 5 hours of walking – elevation in this direction: -1080 m, +1380 m – moderate but physically demanding!

This is the hike not to be missed in the region! It’s a point-to-point hike. Generally, hikers plan to return to their starting point by taxi, but we organised things differently by forming two teams: Titpuce and I walked the entire trail from Vikos to Monodendri, while Papa Voyage and Ticoeur turned back before the big climb out of the canyon. They returned to Vikos (walking very fast!), picked up the car and met us in Monodendri (there is a 40-minute drive between the two villages).

As it’s a canyon, the hike profile consists of: a long descent, a lengthy walk along the canyon floor, and a steep climb back up. It’s possible to hike from Vikos to Monodendri or from Monodendri to Vikos. I wondered which option was best, but honestly, I think it doesn’t really matter! For us, Vikos was closer to the village of Papingo where we were staying.

In terms of elevation gain, it’s tough, so even though the hike isn’t technically difficult, you need to be fit: it’s long and strenuous, with over 1,000 m to descend and 1,000 m to climb back up. Note that on the ascent towards Monodendri, it’s sometimes so steep that ropes have been installed to hold on to and avoid slipping. I was worried about this section, but it turned out to be easy. Titpuce had no problems at all. However, for younger children, it could be a bit tricky and they might need help. If you do the hike in the opposite direction, this steep section with ropes may be more difficult on the descent than on the ascent.

Here is the account of our hike in the Vikos Gorge:

We leave Papingo after breakfast and stop at the small shop in the village of Aresti to pick up some supplies. We start the hike in Vikos at 10:15 am. No problem parking the car. The view over the canyon from the start of the hike is beautiful:

Vikos Gorge framed by towering cliffs

Then, the descent from Vikos is easy, not too steep. After half an hour, we reach the small monastery with a lovely turquoise-coloured stream (this adds 30 minutes and 1 km to the hike).

Turquoise waters of the Voidomatis springs

After this first photo stop, we continue descending into the canyon. Here is the canyon floor:

Rocky riverbed at the bottom of Vikos Gorge

Most of the distance is covered along the canyon floor. Looking up at the sides, you really feel tiny!

Limestone cliffs of the Tymfi mountains

For now, we are still all four together. As always, Ticoeur and Titpuce chat as they walk! I really like this section with the carved rock:

gorges de vikos en famille

Still some beautiful views up towards the heights:

Limestone peaks above the forests of Zagori

Towards the end of the flat section, Ticoeur and Papa Voyage turn back to return and get the car. They challenged themselves to do the return at a brisk pace along the flat section!

With Titpuce, we continue following the trail. The views of the section climbing back up towards Monodendri are stunning!

Vikos Gorge in the morning light

The path is steeper, with large rocks:

Allow a good hour of intense climbing to reach Monodendri.

View down the valley of Vikos Gorge

On arriving in the village, there are quite a few tourists sitting on the terraces (mainly Greeks). We’re surprised because we only crossed paths with two hikers in almost five hours of walking! In fact, many visitors come to the Vikos Gorge to enjoy the beautiful landscapes and viewpoints that are accessible without hiking at all! For me, that’s one more reason to go for the adventure! A hike without the crowds! We sit down on a terrace to enjoy an orange cake while waiting for Papa Voyage and Ticoeur.

Shaded terrace beneath a plane tree in a Zagori village

And if we had to do it again? I think it’s worth booking a taxi (to be arranged in your departure village by asking at a restaurant or accommodation). That way, you can all stay together for the entire hike. An out-and-back hike doesn’t seem like a great option to me, as it’s long and the entire flat section at the bottom of the gorge would feel repetitive. For a more creative option, without a taxi, I think you’d enjoy the best views by doing just the descents and ascents (from Vikos and from Monodendri), without walking the long flat section. Overall, you wouldn’t escape the elevation gain, but you’d save time and wouldn’t need a taxi: you’d park once in Vikos and once in Monodendri!

Vradeto Steps ❤

5.2 km (out and back) – 2 hours

A real favourite hike! This old stone staircase, built in the 18th century, has a lot of charm with its narrow switchbacks set in an enchanting natural setting.

The staircase consists of 1,100 steps, built to link villages together. The hike involves climbing them and then descending. We were there just before sunset. It was beautiful and we were completely alone. We did this hike right after the Vikos Gorge hike! Yes, we’re crazy!
Vradeto Steps winding across the mountainside
See the entire staircase and its switchbacks:

Stone Vradeto Steps seen from above
Sunset between the cliffs near Vradeto

It was getting late, so we went for dinner after this beautiful hike. We found a very good restaurant on the drive back: Zeyxi restaurant in Elati. Then we hit the road again for Papingo (1 hour from the restaurant).

Other highlights in the Vikos Gorge:

The natural pools of Papingo:

Lovely walks following the river and its various pools. In summer, it’s possible to swim there! Perfect for relaxing after a hike!

The old Ottoman bridges:

Built entirely of stone, they are very beautiful. It’s easy to park near each bridge. We stopped at the two bridges we thought were the most impressive:

The Kokkoris Bridge:

The Kologeriko Bridge:

The Stone Forest

A short walk among these stone formations. It’s neither large nor unmissable, as you’ll find similar formations throughout the Vikos Gorge region. But it’s not far from Monodendri, so why not stop by – it’s on the way.

Limestone formations in Zagori’s Stone Forest

3 viewpoints over the Vikos Gorge

There are two viewpoints accessible by car, with just a short walk from the car park. We chose the Beloi viewpoint ❤. A stunning view! There is also the Oxya viewpoint, but it’s much further away (a one-hour detour by car).

Panorama across Vikos Gorge from Oxya
View over the Vikos Gorge from the Beloi viewpoint

Then there is the Monodendri viewpoint: it’s reached after an easy 15-minute walk, as far as the Monastery of Paraskevi:

Vikos Gorge in autumn colours

Which village should you choose to explore the Vikos Gorge?

Three villages for discovering the Vikos Gorge:

To discover the Vikos Gorge region, it’s important to choose where to stay. There are three possible villages:

  • Monodendri: this is the main village, the largest and the most visited. It’s located to the south of the Vikos Gorge and is the first one you’ll come across on your route. It has a good selection of cafés and restaurants (I highly recommend lunch at Froso’s Pies: excellent and good value!). It’s very convenient for starting the hike into the Vikos Gorge.
Cobbled lane between stone houses in Monodendri
Monodendri
  • Aresti: the smallest of the three villages, located to the west of the gorge. Fewer accommodation and restaurant options.

Village of Aristi surrounded by mountains

  • Papingo: the prettiest and most picturesque. It’s located to the north of the Vikos Gorge, further away from civilisation. This is the one we chose, and we loved it! Our accommodation was great! Several restaurants in the village. The restaurant at the Astra Inn was good. Note that some restaurants were closed, as October is not high season.

Stone bell tower in Papingo village square

Our family accommodation in Papingo:

We stayed at the Bed & Breakfast Avragonio, typical of the region, meaning lovely stone houses. All of Papingo is full of charm, and our B&B was no exception! On top of that, breakfast was gargantuan and very varied! We had a small duplex space, with the children sleeping on the sofa in the living room and us upstairs in a double bedroom. It was perfect, and we really enjoyed the outdoor areas because even at half-term, as long as we wrapped up warmly, we could have breakfast in the courtyard, with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. We stayed for two days and two nights, but we packed in several hikes on the same day. For a more relaxed pace, plan for 3 days in the Vikos Gorge.

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Greek breakfast spread with homemade specialities
Stone house and flower-filled courtyard in Papingo
From Papingo, we can see Mikro Papingo above: an idea for another short hike!

Papingo village on a wooded hillside

Metsovo

Whether you’re arriving in the Vikos Gorge region or leaving it, you’ll probably pass close to the charming village of Metsovo. Its architecture has real character, with all its mountain chalets. Locals like to come here for lunch at the weekend. We walked around the village and then sat on a terrace in the main square for a coffee at Xnapia Café (very good!), before buying spinach pies from the excellent Tampas Bakery.

Red-roofed houses on the slopes of Metsovo

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I’ll leave you with a few final photos of the region to immerse you in the atmosphere of this rugged landscape in northern Greece!

Wooded cliffs of Zagori in autumn

Turquoise Voidomatis River flowing through woodland

Folded hills of Zagori at sunset

And you? Fancy discovering the Vikos Gorge and its surroundings? Do you know this part of Greece? You can, like us, combine the Vikos Gorge with a visit to the Meteora!

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Vue du monastère d’Agia Triada perché sur un piton rocheux

Greece: visiting Meteora as a family

During the October half-term, we visited Meteora as a family during our road trip through northern Greece. I was worried I might be disappointed because I had seen so many photos of this region with its famous perched monasteries! No disappointment at all! Quite the opposite! Once there, we were enchanted by the landscape. You feel as though you are wrapped in this scenery of cliffs and rocky pinnacles shaped by erosion. The natural setting and all the viewpoints from which you can admire the monasteries add to the experience. Visiting Meteora in October meant we avoided the summer crowds. We also had ideal weather, enjoying beautiful sunny autumn days. In the end, I was just as impressed by the geological formations as by the monasteries. The combination of the two is so original! Meteora is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its natural and cultural importance.

Age of the children: 13 for Titpuce and 16 for Ticoeur. Our two teens enjoyed our two days in Meteora.

View of the Monastery of Agia Triada perched on a rock pillar

Which monasteries should you visit in Meteora?

In total, there are still 6 monasteries that can be visited. In the Middle Ages, there were up to 24 monasteries. You can spot a few scattered ruins on the rocks.

So, one question I have been asked several times is: which monasteries should you visit? This question is relevant because visiting the interiors of all 6 monasteries would be repetitive, could bore your children and would end up representing quite a budget (see practical information). Also, as Titpuce put it, “it’s mainly the paths leading to the monasteries that are beautiful”!

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Randonneurs sur les cratères volcaniques de l’Etna

Sicily as a family: 10 days in 3 must-see stopovers

Whether you are planning a trip to Sicily with children or teenagers, this 10-day itinerary in 3 stages should appeal to you! On the programme: Mount Etna, Agrigento, Ragusa and their surroundings. I know Sicily very well because it is my dad’s island. In 10 days travelling in Sicily, you have to make choices. For our stay at the end of August, I mainly wanted to limit the number of stops and choose a varied programme that would appeal to the children (Ticoeur, 15, and Titpuce, 13). If this is your first family trip to Sicily, this route gives you a varied overview of the island: volcano, ancient temples, natural beauty, the charm of Baroque towns and a few swims.

The last time we were in Sicily, the children were very little (5 and 7), so for them, this trip was almost like a first time. I therefore wanted to show them a sort of best-of Sicily, admittedly incomplete but nevertheless very representative. They really liked it (especially Etna!). I hope you and your children will too!

Hikers on the volcanic craters of Mount Etna

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How did we break down the stages for this trip to Sicily? 10 days, 9 nights with 3 nights in each of the 3 chosen areas. It’s a triangular itinerary, arriving in Catania (just south of the Etna):

Sicily

 

Sicily as a family: Mount Etna and its surroundings

Here are our family visits in the Etna area…

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Ruelle aux volets bleus dans le centre d'Aix-en-Provence

Visiting Aix-en-Provence with kids

Off to Aix-en-Provence with the family! We have been several times to this lovely town in Provence, the town of Paul Cezanne, but also the town of my Pepe, who lives in a village nearby 🙂 It is a place that is particularly close to my heart. In any case, it is always a pleasure to return to Aix-en-Provence, ideal for a family city trip: a very beautiful destination, gentle and easy-going, with art, markets and the added charm of Provence. I recommend spending 2 days in Aix-en-Provence during a holiday in Provence, or at least one full day!

As we go back to Aix-en-Provence regularly, this article is a compilation of our different stays there. Here are our favourite visits in Aix and nearby.

Visiting the centre of Aix-en-Provence with kids:

The old town of Aix-en-Provence ❤ is very picturesque. Its narrow streets help keep things cool in summer. The pale yellow and ochre tones of the facades bring sunshine into the town, as if there were not already enough in the sky! The old town has a lot of charm and it is very pleasant to wander around on foot. There is a little hint of Italy in the air, don’t you think? As you stroll, you pass through squares that invite you to slow down, and past very beautiful fountains: Aix-en-Provence is nicknamed “the city of a thousand fountains”. In reality, there are more like a good hundred, but you know how generous people from the South can be with rhetorical flourishes!

Lane with blue shutters in central Aix-en-Provence

Shaded café terraces in an Aix-en-Provence square

Narrow street lined with ochre façades in Aix-en-Provence

Historic façades and blue shutters on an Aix-en-Provence street

Among the squares not to miss in Aix, I would mention Place des Cardeurs, with its lovely terraces for lunch or dinner in summer, Place d’Albertas (and its fountain), which is very charming, Place de l’Hotel de Ville with its beautiful building, Place des Augustins, and the small Place des Ormeaux. Finally, in the Mazarin district south of Cours Mirabeau, the prettiest square is probably Place des Quatre Dauphins, with the fountain of the same name.

Café terraces in a sunny Aix-en-Provence square
Place des Cardeurs

Square lined with restaurants in central Aix-en-Provence

Townhouse courtyard with a fountain in Aix-en-Provence
Place d’Albertas
Dauphin Fountain in an Aix-en-Provence square
Place des Quatre-Dauphins
Carved detail on a stone façade in Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence Town Hall and its 16th-century Clock Tower

During this walk through the centre, you will come across Saint-Sauveur Cathedral, with its Gothic facade. It is worth going inside to admire three beautiful naves in three different styles: Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque. Also worth seeing: the 5th-century baptistery, with its octagonal shape. It was built on the site of the former Roman forum. The cloister is charming too.

Gothic nave of a church in Aix-en-Provence

Romanesque cloister opening onto a garden in Aix-en-Provence

Finally, Aix-en-Provence’s own “Champs-Elysees” is Cours Mirabeau, which runs along the edge of the old town and begins with the large Fontaine de la Rotonde:

Large Fontaine de la Rotonde in Aix-en-Provence

Tree-lined square with historic façades in Aix-en-Provence

The markets in Aix-en-Provence:

On Saturday morning, we made sure not to miss the different markets in the old town. My little girl loved the flower market (Place de l’Hotel de Ville – Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) and of course she asked us to buy a huge bouquet for her great-grandfather!

Colourful flower stall at Aix-en-Provence market

Then we moved on to the fruit and vegetable market (Place Richelme – every day). All those stalls of local produce are a pleasure for the eyes. They make you want to buy everything and start cooking!

Colourful pepper stall at Aix-en-Provence market

Braids of garlic at Aix-en-Provence market

A visit to the Caumont Art Centre:

We visited this lovely museum located in Hotel de Caumont ❤. First of all, the building itself is a superb 18th-century mansion where you can discover period rooms. In addition, the art centre hosts two major art exhibitions each year. The whole place is not too large, so it works well for an artistic family visit.

Façade of the Caumont Art Centre in Aix-en-Provence

Four-poster bed in a room at the Caumont Art Centre

2026 update: this year, there is the exhibition “The Collector’s Eye”, including works by Caillebotte, Manet and Renoir (until 22 March 2026). Then there will be a Toulouse-Lautrec exhibition from 24 April to 4 October 2026. See information on the Caumont Art Centre website. The garden, with its cafe and flowers, is very pleasant for a sunny break.

Formal garden at the Caumont Art Centre

The Calisson Museum: perfect for children!

The visit to the Calisson Museum at the Roy Rene factory is interesting and free! Ticoeur and Titpuce enjoyed discovering everything about calissons. Upstairs, there is a small interactive exhibition. Guides give a few explanations about the history and ingredients of calissons. You can taste a mini calisson and, above all, do some shopping in the large boutique. These calissons are very good!

Modern building of the Calisson Museum near Aix-en-Provence

Pavillon Noir for dance fans:

We passed in front of the Pavillon Noir, home to the dance school of choreographer Preljocaj, of whom I am a big fan. I never miss any of his shows in Paris, but one day I would love to attend a rehearsal or a performance at the Pavillon Noir, his home base. During our visit, there was indeed a Preljocaj ballet in Aix. We bought tickets, but to make the most of summer, the performance was not held at the Pavillon Noir but at the very beautiful open-air Theatre de l’Archeveche.

Steel architecture of the Pavillon Noir in Aix-en-Provence
Le Pavillon Noir
Pavillon de Vendôme lit at night in Aix-en-Provence
Theatre de l’Archeveche, Aix-en-Provence

Discovering the great painters of Aix-en-Provence:

If you like painting, and your children do too, then in Aix-en-Provence and the surrounding area you will be spoilt for choice! Choose one or two visits depending on the length of your stay:

  • Cezanne’s Studio: this is the best-known visit in Aix. The studio is located on a hill from where the artist could see Sainte-Victoire, which inspired him so much! It is normally open from early June to late October, but the 2026 dates have not yet been announced. Allow around 30 minutes for the visit. If you are fans of the painter, there is also the Cezanne trail through the town (follow the golden studs on the ground).
  • The Vasarely Foundation: in a very different style of painting, this museum displays the large geometric and colourful works of the artist Victor Vasarely.

Red geometric artwork by Victor Vasarely

  • Chateau La Coste: modern art installations among the vineyards north of Aix-en-Provence (see below, in the surrounding area)
  • Chateau de Vauvenargues, where Picasso lived: we had the chance to visit it a long time ago. Sadly, this chateau is no longer open to the public, but it is a wonderful memory for us and I hope it will reopen in the future!

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What to see around Aix-en-Provence?

Sainte-Victoire ❤:

Without the children, as a couple, we set off one morning just after 7 am to climb the superb Sainte-Victoire while it was still cool: we had missed hiking at a brisk pace!

Sainte-Victoire mountain above the Provençal countryside

Chateau La Coste ❤: a superb art visit among the vineyards

Thirty minutes from Aix-en-Provence, here is one of our favourite visits! Chateau La Coste is a beautiful vineyard that you visit not only for its wine, but above all for the many art sculptures dotted throughout the vines. We spent a good two hours there, walking from one sculpture to the next. The children enjoyed these works of art, which are huge and varied. A perfect family visit! The following photos were taken a few years later, during another family stay in Aix-en-Provence: the children had grown!

Wall of coloured blocks at Château La Coste

Family beside a block sculpture at Château La Coste

Wrought-iron gate opening onto Château La Coste vineyards

Sculpture of colourful spheres at Château La Coste

Spider sculpture on a pool at Château La Coste

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Our good addresses in Aix-en-Provence:

Accommodation in Aix:

Just outside Aix-en-Provence, La Ferme guesthouse is one of our favourite addresses! A superb garden, pretty Provencal decor and breakfast. All this just a quarter of an hour from Aix by car. To visit the centre of Aix-en-Provence, everything can be done on foot, so leave your car in one of the large paid car parks (we often use the Rotonde car park).

**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****

Restaurants in central Aix:

  • Le Maryse: quiches, savoury tarts and cakes.
  • Le Miollis: a relaxed terrace, a bistro menu and reasonable prices.
  • Le Ramus: a lovely brasserie with a terrace.

Where to buy calissons?

I love them and so do the children! I recommend the Calissoun stall at the market, or the Philippe Segond shop on Cours Mirabeau, or La Fabrique du Roy Rene (see above).

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After all that, in the evening, a little Ricard with my Pepe felt well deserved, didn’t it? Once again, it feels good to return to one’s roots, especially as my Pepe is approaching 100 years old, so he carries the memory of so many years I never knew. I particularly love it when he tells me about his youth, with the song of the cicadas as background music.

Bottles of pastis and a glass on a table

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Many more family-activities in the same region – in the Luberon.

And you? Have you visited Aix-en-Provence with your family?

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Maisons colorées de Cliftonwood au-dessus des bateaux du port de Bristol

Visiting Bristol: street art and discoveries

We went back to visit Bristol. This time, in summer mode and just as a mother-daughter duo. Bristol is the city in England best known for street art. It is even called the “Capital of Street Art”. So I thought it was a good excuse to go back with my Titpuce, who is interested in art in general but knows less about this urban art form. Bristol is Banksy’s city. Bristol is also the city of Massive Attack and Portishead. For that, younger people are less likely to get the reference! Let’s just say Bristol is famous for its music groups.

We spent one day in Bristol, with the whole morning devoted to a guided walk to discover the street art. Then we went back to see a few of the city’s must-sees: the market, the monuments, a museum, the famous suspension bridge and, of course, the harbour and the banks of the River Avon. Come on! I’ll take you with us on this 20-kilometre walk through Bristol! A very intense day! I’ll warn you: Bristol is a favourite to discover as a family, especially if your children or teenagers are interested in street art.

Colourful Cliftonwood houses above boats in Bristol Harbour

Street art in Bristol

Street art is clearly part of Bristol’s DNA. Banksy has particularly contributed to the city’s reputation in this field, but street art was already very developed in Bristol before Banksy, and it inspired him. Today, there are actually few Banksy works in Bristol because they were simply removed, washed away, especially at a time when Banksy was not yet so well known. Now, the council tries to preserve what remains. A difficult position that raises the question of legality and the question of art in general.

To discover Bristol’s emblematic street art works, you can simply use the resources from the tourist office. As for the few Banksys, they are all marked on Google Maps. Mainly, you’ll wander around the centre, passing through Broad Street, Bell Lane and Nelson Street, to name just a few. Then you’ll head towards the Stokes Croft area. This is the Caribbean neighbourhood, more working-class, where Banksy lived.

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Cycliste sur une route de l'île de Wight avec la mer au loin

Round the island tour on the Isle of Wight – cycling with the family

Here’s a project that was close to my heart: cycling around the Isle of Wight with the family! You know how much we love bike adventures with the kids! Cycling around the Isle of Wight is a classic down here in the south of England. The route is about 100km – a satisfying distance. I split the trip into 3 cycling days. We rode clockwise starting from Cowes. Is it a family-friendly route? That depends on your cycle touring experience. I’ll admit, at first I was worried it might be too tough for our Titpuce (12 years old), who’d never done more than 20km in a day before. Ticoeur (14) was in his element. In the end, I came up with a whole plan to make the adventure easier for Titpuce. She took a shortcut on the first day. I’ll tell you all about it. But in the end, I needn’t have worried. Who was the one lagging behind in the family? Me!!!

Cyclist on an Isle of Wight road with the sea in the distance
Day 2 of our cycling tour of the Isle of Wight with the kids

Cycling around the Isle of Wight with the family: Day 1

The ferry journey to the Isle of Wight

Ticoeur and I set off early from Southampton port. We took a ferry to West Cowes on the Isle of Wight with the company Red Funnel. The crossing takes 30 minutes and there’s space for bikes. We paid £56 return for the two of us and our bikes.

Morning ride: Cowes to Bembridge

Once in Cowes, we crossed the village – on foot, as the main street is pedestrianised. After a few pedal strokes, we were already blocked by an inlet. We had to take a chain ferry to avoid a big detour. Finally, the real adventure could begin! At first, the road climbs a bit and it still feels urban. Then it winds through the countryside. Lots of twists, descents, and climbs. The sky was overcast and it was cool – which helped with the uphill sections! More physical than I expected. The wind was quite strong and changing direction. A proper workout! Cyclist on a shaded Isle of Wight cycle path
After a few kilometres, we finally realised there’s a colour code on the cycle route signs: blue on white means clockwise, white on blue means counter-clockwise. Handy!

Blue signs pointing to cycle routes in two directions
Around noon, we reached the waterfront at Bembridge and were starving! We enjoyed a lovely waterside lunch at The Best Dressed Crab Limited. Crab, like at home, is a local speciality. Pricey but delicious. We shared a plate between us and topped up with cereal bars before getting back on the road.

Small boats moored in an Isle of Wight harbour

Afternoon ride: Bembridge to Ventnor

We headed south. A drizzle starts. More climbs and descents followed.
What were Titpuce and Papa Voyage up to during this time? As I said earlier, I wanted to ease the route for Titpuce. She had a dance rehearsal in the morning – another reason to take the afternoon ferry and use a shortcut: the Red Squirrel Trail. This path cuts across the island almost straight north to south. It avoids many miles. It’s also very peaceful and mostly flat, as it’s a former railway line.

Cyclist seen from behind on a leafy path
The weather worsened. For Ticoeur and me, the hills got longer and fog rolled in. When the route neared Sandown, we left the official Isle of Wight Cycle Route for a while and rode along the coast on a stretch of the Red Squirrel Trail. The part between Sandown and Shanklin is really lovely:

Cyclist riding beside a rocky shore on the Isle of Wight
After the seaside ride, there’s a steep climb near Shanklin Shine up to the old village of Shanklin (Shanklin Old Village). Ticoeur often had to wait for me at the top.

Cyclist on a tree-lined road in the mist

Thatched cottages in Old Shanklin village
Old Shanklin, Isle of Wight

A few more miles and we reached the hills above Ventnor. Beautiful green views – slightly misty and damp 🙂 Misty view over the Isle of Wight hills and coast

Arrival and family reunion in Ventnor

We arrived at our first accommodation, down in Ventnor village. Papa Voyage and Titpuce arrived 15 minutes later. Great timing! We reunited, all soaked from the rain. Our place was a lovely little apartment with charming decor. Good value for the Isle of Wight. There was also a nice DVD selection. The kids picked Les Misérables to watch.

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We headed out again to a lovely seafront pub: The Spyglass Inn. A great, characterful pub! But it was pouring!

Ventnor's shingle beach beneath a misty sky Lit-up buildings on Ventnor seafront

Day 1 Cycling Summary:

  • 45km for Ticoeur and me
  • 30km for Titpuce and Papa Voyage

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Cycling Around the Isle of Wight as a Family: Day 2

Morning: From Ventnor to Chale

We set off early, all four of us. The blue sky is back! What a boost!

Houses above Ventnor and a terraced garden

We see Ventnor beach again under the sunshine!

Ventnor beach and green hills under a blue sky

Off we go! A long, fairly steep climb awaits us.

Cyclist seen from behind on a palm-lined street in Ventnor

As usual, I’m lagging behind on the climbs while Titpuce powers ahead! At the top of a long hill, we take a Mikado break (brought from France). Then, the climb continues! Titpuce and I walk a few hundred metres.

Cyclist on a hedge-lined coastal road on the Isle of Wight

At the top, we have a fantastic view and perfect weather to enjoy it!

View of the Isle of Wight's south coast from a hill

Well-deserved lunch break at the pub The Wight Mouse Inn. Their garden is lovely, with a sea view. We order tea and pies. There’s also a play area for younger kids, though Titpuce enjoyed it too. I had wanted to book a night there, but it was fully booked. Also, based on the length of our cycling days, it would have been too early. But depending on how you divide your journey, it could be a good option, so here’s the link to their hotel section.

Blue picnic tables on a lawn overlooking the sea

From Chale to Freshwater Bay

After the pub, we cycle for an hour on narrower, quieter roads. It’s nice not see any cars, even though British drivers are really careful and respectful towards cyclists.

Cyclist passing a flower-covered thatched cottage

We then return to the main road for the last stretch of the day. There are some cars, but the views more than make up for it. A few more big climbs, and then we reach Freshwater Bay beach.

Coastal road descending towards the sea on the Isle of Wight

A few minutes further on is our accommodation for the night: 9 Afton Barns. We booked this very traditional house with a typical English interior. Not really our style, but it’s very neat and spotlessly clean. A good spot inland, not far from Freshwater Bay beach.

Twin room on an Isle of Wight cycling trip

We drop off our bags and set off… Hiking!

The Needles:

Yes, I wanted to walk after all that cycling! We pedal a few minutes to the start of a two-hour hike on the western tip to admire The Needles, those little chalk stacks that symbolise the Isle of Wight. It’s a slow but steady climb and we’re facing the wind. The view of the Needles is lovely.

Grassy hill near the Needles on the Isle of Wight

The Needles chalk stacks off the Isle of Wight

Tonight, we’re skipping the pub so Papa Voyage and I cycle to a supermarket. Pasta party at our rental! The kids are thrilled! And the good weather is back!

Day 2 Cycling Summary:

35 km with lots of elevation!

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Cycling Around the Isle of Wight as a Family: Day 3

With the hardest day behind us, we calmly begin the 3rd stage of our cycling trip—and even add two detours!

From Freshwater Bay to The Needles:

We don’t set off until 10am. Not far from our accommodation is the Piano Café, where we had breakfast on a previous trip to the Isle of Wight. Highly recommended!

Heavy rain begins, but the wind quickly brings back the sunshine—phew!

Our first detour today is to return to see The Needles. This time via the cycle path. We have our National Trust membership, so we can enter the viewing area for a closer look—but honestly, we preferred the free clifftop views from yesterday.

White chalk stacks of the Needles in blue sea

 

From The Needles to Yarmouth:

We get caught in another heavy downpour! Thankfully it’s short-lived. The sun reappears as we follow a lovely estuary. The path is flat. Very relaxing!

Vegetation-lined pond on the Isle of Wight

We arrive in Yarmouth, a charming little village. We stretch our legs by walking along the pier before getting back on our bikes.

Cyclists riding along a street lined with old houses

Then we make a detour for lunch at the island’s best restaurant: The Hut! A fantastic spot for seafood lovers. The setting is stunning too, with sea views. Note: bookings are needed one to two weeks in advance.

Heading to Cowes: The Loop Completed!

Next stop: Cowes, our third accommodation. On the way, we experience very changeable skies, climbs and descents, and plenty of woodland—but sadly, still no sign of the famous red squirrels of the Isle of Wight!

Here’s Cowes! The loop is complete!

Small boats and beach seen from the sea on the Isle of Wight

Street decorated with bunting between Isle of Wight houses

We had booked two rooms in a homestay: see Cliffside in Cowes. The host was lovely. He was happy for us to dine in his garden (we quickly bought salads at the supermarket). He also provided tea, coffee, cereals, etc. for breakfast.

White house surrounded by a garden on the Isle of Wight

Our host suggested one last bike ride along the seafront to a pub with stunning sunset views. We celebrated the end of our cycling tour around the Isle of Wight!

Sunset over the sea behind beach huts

Day 3 Cycling Summary:

  • 50 km including 20 km of detours!
  • In total, over 3 days, Ticoeur and I cycled 130 km (the official loop is 105 km, but we added lots of extras).

All in all, it was a sporty adventure! Don’t set off without prior experience. It’s better to have done several cycle touring trips first. This route isn’t the easiest—very hilly and shared with cars. But if you’re used to family bike trips, the Tour of the Isle of Wight is a fantastic journey full of great memories!

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Visit to Osborne House

We could have taken the ferry back to Southampton last night from Cowes, but we wanted to enjoy the evening on the Isle of Wight and revisit Osborne House, which we’d seen a few years ago. It’s Queen Victoria’s summer palace. Absolutely stunning, with a rich interior and an impressive Indian-style dining room. The visit took us all morning. Osborne House is located 3 km from Cowes, so just a short bike ride (around 25 minutes). You could also fit this visit in on Day 1 of your cycling tour. Allow at least 2 hours to explore the house and gardens.

Front of Osborne House on the Isle of Wight

Before taking the ferry, we grabbed sandwiches in Cowes from Manny’s Baguettes. Perfect and affordable!

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Tips for Preparing Your Isle of Wight Cycling Tour

  • Getting to the Isle of Wight: We took the ferry from Southampton, but there are also boats from Portsmouth. If so, you’ll arrive in Ryde.
  • Planning the cycling stages: The cycling section on the Visit Isle of Wight website is excellent. You can even track the elevation and distance by moving your mouse along the route. See Round The Island Cycling Tour. For the Red Squirrel Trail, Papa Voyage and Titpuce followed the path from Cowes to Ventnor without doing the full loop. See the route. We chose a clockwise direction because it was more convenient for our accommodation and the shortcut on Day 1 via the Red Squirrel Trail.
  • In our bags: We packed windbreakers and rain capes—essential! Papa Voyage and I each carried a large bag with everything for the family. Don’t forget lots of spare socks—very comforting when it rains! The kids didn’t carry anything. Papa Voyage also had a small repair kit for the bikes. Be sure to bring sunscreen, water bottles, and snacks for everyone!

Map of cycle routes around the Isle of Wight

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So, who’s tempted by cycling around the Isle of Wight?

 

Toits de l'Alfama et palmiers vus d'un mirador de Lisbonne

2 days in Lisbon with our teenagers

During the Easter holidays, we spent 2 days in Lisbon as a family. We had already been to Lisbon with the children when they were little. Now, we are parents of two teenagers! That changes the programme a bit. Not completely, but let’s say we adapt to their tastes and their pace. I therefore wanted to write this article to share this visit to Lisbon with our teenagers. Ticoeur is now 15 and Titpuce 13. We made some new discoveries and revisited a few must-see places.

To put this stay in Lisbon into context, I should mention that we set off on a road trip in the Algarve, in the south of Portugal, and combined it with a two-day (and two-night) stopover in Lisbon. The last time we were in Portugal, we also combined the two. It’s a great way to enjoy nature-focused holidays in the south as well as cultural visits in the Portuguese capital.

Right, let’s get started with exploring Lisbon with teenagers!

3 viewpoints not to be missed in Lisbon

First of all, let’s talk about the big advantage of exploring Lisbon with older children: they can walk and climb! Because Lisbon is a very hilly city! As I mentioned back then, with young children it’s quite a workout, whether you have a pushchair or are carrying them! It’s really not the easiest city with little ones if, like us, you enjoy discovering a city on foot. In short, our two beloved teenagers walk (yes, really!) willingly and energetically, so we took advantage of that to reach three beautiful viewpoints over the city of Lisbon.

Mirador da Graça

This mirador is higher than the others, making it the most demanding of the three. At the top, here is the panoramic view, with the Tagus in the distance:

Lisbon rooftops and 25 de Abril Bridge from Miradouro da Graça

On the left, zooming in a little, you can see the Castelo de São Jorge, a castle we didn’t revisit this time:

São Jorge Castle above Lisbon's rooftops

Mirador das Portas do Sol

We already knew this viewpoint, which is right in the heart of the Alfama district, our favourite neighbourhood in Lisbon. I think it’s the most beautiful of the miradors, the one not to be missed if you only visit one. We had a coffee there (there’s a kiosk on the panoramic terrace). The perfect break!

Alfama rooftops and palm trees from a Lisbon viewpoint

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Falaises dorées et arches marines de l’Algarve

The Algarve as a family

We have just returned from the Algarve, this region in southern Portugal where we had already been with the children several years ago in summer. Now, the children have grown up and we wanted to go back in spring mode, for new discoveries or simply to revisit places we had loved. Following these holidays, here is the story of our family visits and walks in the Algarve and some ideas for organising your itinerary. Shall we get started?

Age of the children: 13 for Titpuce and 15 for Ticoeur (last time, they were 18 months and almost 4 years old!)

Travel period: Easter holidays.

The Algarve as a family: our favourite walks and hikes!

The Seven Hanging Valleys coastal walk:

This is a must-do hike to enjoy the famous landscapes of the Algarve. The route is 12 km return. It takes about 3 hours of walking in total, but longer with photo stops and lunch. We parked at the Praia Marinha car park (free). This beach and its rocks are already very beautiful:

Golden cliffs and sea arches on the Algarve coast

We then walked west, passing through Benagil, where there is a famous cave that many people visit by boat, but we didn’t fancy it because it seemed too much like a “tourist machine” to us, and the sea was a little rough; it would not have been much fun! In short, we passed above the cave and saw the beach, but from the coastal path you cannot see the cave. Never mind! The landscape is superb anyway and we were better off on land with our trainers!

The end of the hike is at Vale de Centeanes. Before starting the return journey, we made a little detour to Helders Restaurant Bar, where we shared two simple and effective daily specials. As is often the case, even though return hikes might give the impression of repetition, well, no! It’s another viewpoint and another light! We appreciated the 6 km in the other direction.

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