During the Christmas holidays, we spent a week under the Tenerife sun as a family. We loved it! And yet, I was a little apprehensive because, in the Canary Islands archipelago, we had already been on holiday in Lanzarote, so the bar was set very high! But we weren’t disappointed. Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands; Mount Teide is impressive and, clearly, it’s a perfect destination for hiking lovers, but not only that! So here is an overview of what we managed to do in one week in Tenerife, knowing that it’s far too short for such a large island and that we’ll be going back for more discoveries!
What to do in Tenerife as a family?
Go hiking, of course!
Clearly, if you’re hesitating between several Canary Islands and you’re keen on hiking, Tenerife is ideal! Whether in Teide National Park or in Anaga Rural Park in the north, you’ll find trails of all levels and superb landscapes, sometimes lunar, sometimes very green. See the detailed article on our 5 family hikes in Tenerife.
Boat trip to meet whales and dolphins:
Many families of pilot whales live year-round off the coast of Tenerife. Since the start of the pandemic, they’ve actually been more numerous and happier to see fewer tourists. With this type of outing, you always have to be careful when choosing the provider because there are rules for respecting the animals and restrictions on the number of authorised boats, but unfortunately there are always people who take tourists out without a licence. I recommend Whale Watch Tenerife, with whom we did the two-hour trip at sea. We were on a zodiac (maximum 10 people) with a passionate guide, and we kept our distance from these beautiful marine mammals. So you see them from far away (my photos are zoomed in), but it’s still magical, I assure you! Ticoeur and Titpuce loved it and we learned loads! On the way back, we came across dolphins (there are quite a few, but apparently you don’t see them on every outing, unlike the pilot whales). An excellent memory!
Visit a lava tube: Cueva del Viento
I should warn you: a tunnel formed by a lava flow is not as beautiful as a cave like the ones we’re used to seeing with stalagmites and stalactites. So the visit isn’t for aesthetic reasons. On the other hand, it’s a very interesting, educational and impressive visit when you imagine that we’re walking along the same path the lava took a very long time ago, thankfully. Our guide was brilliant and we learned loads about volcanoes and geology. What’s more, it was part of Ticoeur’s geography syllabus last term, so it worked out well! We recommend this unusual visit because it’s not common to be able to visit a lava tube! (I think it’s also possible on Réunion Island and in Hawaii.) To book, go to the Cueva del Viento website. Oh yes, one more point: when we were there, there were only tours in English, not French. Obviously that doesn’t bother us, but for a wider choice of languages, I imagine it’s better to go in high season.
Discover pretty villages, including Masca:
There are lots of pleasant and exotic villages. Sometimes, they’re not especially charming or picturesque, but they have something authentic about them. You can feel that a peaceful and local life unfolds there.
There’s also Masca, a tiny village that is very visited, this time not for the village itself but for its geographical setting and its huge rock, which reminded me a little of Huayna Picchu!
It’s the chance for a short, panoramic little walk. To discover the remote and local atmosphere of the small villages, nothing beats stopping there for a drink or lunch with the local people (in this type of simple inland restaurant, you’ll mainly find grilled specialities). As for towns, we stopped in La Orotava on the way back from Anaga Park: there are some beautiful colourful buildings there. It was perfect for a coffee in the main square.
We didn’t have time to see San Cristóbal de La Laguna or Santa Cruz de Tenerife, so that will be for next time! Our stay was more focused on nature than towns.
Swimming in natural pools:
Here is another popular activity in Tenerife! There are lots of natural pools which, in theory, allow you to swim sheltered from the big Atlantic Ocean waves. I say “in theory” because apart from one morning when we were able to swim, the other times the waves were so huge that they were even washing over the rocks of the natural pool, so we didn’t feel sufficiently sheltered! Let’s say it depends on the swell. In any case, they are beautiful landscapes and lovely seaside walks.
We mostly tried the natural pools around Garachico. El Caletón was closed, so we moved on to the Charco Los Chochos natural pool, which we loved. Ticoeur and I swam there (the water was 19–20 degrees, so too cool for Papa Voyage and Titpuce). Then we went on to the natural pools of Charco Las Mujeres (very beautiful as well!). On another day, we stopped at Charco del Viento and Charco de la Laja, but the ocean was too rough! All the natural pools I’ve just mentioned are located on the north coast of Tenerife.
In photos, when the natural pools are calm, it looks like this:
And when the pools are submerged by the ocean, it looks like this:
Swimming in the sea?
So you may be wondering whether there are any calm beaches for swimming with children. Yes, there are large beaches in the south-west. The ocean is calmer there BUT it’s the most touristy area of Tenerife. Since we were there out of season, those beaches were empty anyway, but the large hotel complexes spoil the natural setting. Not our kind of place! The rest of Tenerife has far more to offer. We still stopped at the large El Duque beach because it wasn’t far from the departure point for our whale trip. The children enjoyed this beach break and building sandcastles.
On another day, we stopped at the black sand beach of Los Gigantes: even if it’s not for swimming, it’s worth it for admiring the cliffs!
In any case, the water is cool all year round, which doesn’t bother me, but I prefer to warn those who feel the cold. To conclude, when it comes to swimming, we preferred Lanzarote.
The banana plantations of Tenerife
I’ll finish with the banana plantations: there are so many banana plantations that they will remain etched in our minds! They are clearly part of the island’s landscape. I had actually spotted that it was possible to visit one, Finca Las Margaritas, but sadly the opening hours didn’t fit with our already very full schedule! So that too will be for next time! On the other hand, we were able to taste Tenerife bananas, and they were excellent!
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Where to stay in Tenerife for a family holiday?
Many of you asked me where the best place was to base yourselves for a week when staying in Tenerife as a family. We were in Icod de Los Vinos, but the choice of village was down to chance, following the choice of house we had found. We could have stayed elsewhere. My main criterion was to avoid the touristy and overbuilt-up area around Costa Adeje and Los Cristianos—I mainly looked on the north coast. Wherever you stay, you’ll need a car, and you’ll often need to drive one or two hours because the island is large. The roads offer superb scenery, so it’s not wasted time! Especially when you cross Teide National Park! You’ll want to stop frequently to take photos.
If I go back to our accommodation: it was a villa for 4 people, with a terrace and a pool. The view towards the sea in the distance was superb. The children made use of the heated pool every day. We found it magical to be able to have dinner on the terrace every evening in the middle of December! (With a light jumper, all the same.)
In short, a very good address that offered several similar villas or flats (some with pools and others without), but unfortunately, for now I can only see this flat without a pool. I should point out that the villas or flats are semi-detached. Out of season, we weren’t bothered, but potentially you could end up with noisy neighbours. Apart from that, it was perfect!
Recommended restaurants in Tenerife:
Restaurant Tas-K in Los Gigantes: delicious and a great welcome! Very fresh, high-quality produce. Be warned: the terrace is tiny, so you need to arrive right at the start of service to have a chance of getting lunch there.
Mesón Casa Mi Madre: the catch of the day takes centre stage! A place recommended by Clo & Clem, who by chance were in Tenerife at the same time as us, and whom we had the good fortune to meet in real life!
Terrazas del Sauzal: the terrace of this bar-restaurant offers a breathtaking view over the sea and Teide. We had a drink there at sunset. Superb!
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Car hire in Tenerife:
We hired a car from the airport. We had a Renault Clio and it was perfect for getting around easily on Tenerife’s roads. We paid €36 for the week. Check the comparison site DiscoverCars. Each time, we choose one of the cheapest options, but making sure to choose:
- a rental company with good ratings
- a “full-to-full” fuel policy
- free cancellation.
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In conclusion, coming back to the question I’m often asked: Lanzarote or Tenerife? We liked both for different reasons. I recommend Lanzarote as a family for the sea and the artistic visits linked to the presence of César Manrique’s works; and I recommend Tenerife for the hikes, Teide, the whales. Lanzarote is smaller, more arid, with less relief and fewer buildings. Tenerife has more contrasting landscapes, more vegetation and more housing. In both cases, you’ll enjoy magnificent volcanic scenery!
So, tempted by a family trip to Tenerife?
Also worth reading
5 hikes in Tenerife with the kidsOur family hikes in Tenerife in the Teide and Anaga national parks
One week in Lanzarote with childrenDetails and program of our week-long family trip in Lanzarote
Our 10 family hikes in AragonA week of hiking with the children in Aragon during our campervan road trip in northern Spain
Trip to Andalusia with the kidsItinerary for a week in Andalusia with children
10 days in Madeira: our practical guideMadeira with kids: our trip during the Easter holidays
Road trip in Scotland with a babyHikes in the Highlands with a baby on a 10-day holiday in Scotland: walks, sightseeing and also city breaks in Edinburgh and…
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