Maman Voyage: all our family travel articles

A day in Cambridge with children

During the Easter holidays, we spent a day in Cambridge. I had wanted to discover this famous university city for a long time. Only Papa Voyage had been there before, when he was a student; for the children and me, it was our first visit. We all loved Cambridge! It is a very pleasant little city: peaceful and beautiful. We were also lucky enough to have bright sunshine almost all day. Our Cambridge day trip was a real favourite, and we explored everything on foot from morning until evening.

Here is our itinerary and programme for visiting Cambridge:

We began our long walk at Castle Mound, having parked in Shire Hall Car park, which proved to be a good choice. It is a small outdoor car park about a 15-minute walk from the city centre. Current prices vary according to the length and day of your stay, so check the latest tariff before visiting.

Discovering the colleges of the University of Cambridge

The University of Cambridge consists of 31 colleges, some more prestigious and famous than others. We first walked from college to college along the gardens known as The Backs, so called because they lie behind the colleges. We followed the River Cam, which separates the university buildings from the public parkland. Walking beside the Cam is truly delightful.

We did not see all the colleges, but in order we passed Westminster College, St John’s College from a distance and Trinity College. Looping back through the city side, we then passed King’s College—the most famous—and Queens’ College. It is a wonderful way to admire the architecture associated with England’s historic universities. The colleges are not generally open to the public, although some offer paid visits, sometimes at a considerable price. We considered visiting Trinity College because it seemed good value, but the tours were fully booked. Perhaps we will visit all these colleges once Ticoeur and Titpuce are at sixth form and we can attend university open days ;-).

Tip: It is normally possible to attend a service featuring the choir at King’s College free of charge in the late afternoon. Check the chapel calendar because the choir and service schedule follows the university term. During our visit in the holidays, there was no choir because the students had gone home.

View of the courtyard and façade of St John’s College — St John’s College, Cambridge

View of the neoclassical façade of Fitzwilliam College behind a flowering orchard — Trinity College, Cambridge

Façade of a historic Cambridge college — King’s College

Visiting Trinity College’s Wren Library

While visiting Trinity College itself is chargeable, admission to the Wren Library is free. Perfect! It was an ideal way to glimpse a small part of the university world. The library is normally open to visitors from noon to 2 pm on weekdays throughout the year, with additional Saturday opening from 10.30 am to 12.30 pm on selected term-time dates. Hours and closures can change, so check before setting off. Visitor numbers are controlled and you may need to queue, so arriving a little early is sensible.

What a beautiful and fascinating library! Its collections include very old medieval manuscripts, books and notes associated with Isaac Newton, who studied at Trinity, and original Winnie-the-Pooh manuscripts by A. A. Milne, another former Trinity student. The architecture is magnificent: when the Wren Library was completed at the end of the 17th century, it was the largest library in England. Photography rules may vary, so follow the instructions displayed during your visit.

Walking beside the River Cam

I mentioned it above, but this really is one of the loveliest things to do in Cambridge: walking alongside the River Cam, which is wonderfully picturesque with its weeping willows. We covered everything on foot, although some visitors choose to take a ride in a punt, the city’s traditional flat-bottomed boat. Rather like in Venice, a sort of English gondolier propels and steers it with a long pole. The activity is known as punting and can be rather expensive. A cheaper alternative is to hire a punt without a chauffeur, but it is best to be skilful: steering properly along the river does not look easy at all!

In short, we stayed on foot. It was more economical and perfect for taking our time and wandering. Along the way, you come across several pretty little bridges. The Mathematical Bridge is especially well known:

The lanes of Cambridge’s historic centre

Cambridge’s historic centre is full of charm. Despite being lively, it has a very pleasant and peaceful atmosphere. There are hardly any cars, which makes walking particularly enjoyable. Simply wandering through the lanes, passing Great St Mary’s Church, the market and the little passages makes for a lovely walk. The centre has numerous cafés, tearooms, shops and restaurants. Some of Cambridge’s most charming central streets include Trinity Street, Rose Crescent, Green Street and Laundress Lane.

At the corner of Trumpington Street and Bene’t Street, you will see the Corpus Clock, a large and very strange timepiece. We were not exactly charmed by the giant insect—a grasshopper—that tells the time. Its mechanism is apparently very complex. The effect feels rather like a chamber of horrors or haunted house: the time-eating grasshopper is striking because of its size, shine and movements. As an interesting detail, the Corpus Clock was unveiled by Stephen Hawking.

During our wander, we happened upon two Dinky Doors. These are miniature decorative doors—a form of street art, you might say. They are not essential sights, but it was fun to encounter two along our route: one very close to the entrance of Trinity College and another near the New Museums Site on Downing Street. You can buy a map showing all Cambridge’s Dinky Doors, although we were not interested enough to do so.

Visiting the Fitzwilliam Museum

This is Cambridge’s principal museum and admission is free. It is rather like Oxford’s Ashmolean Museum, although smaller. In other words, it contains a little of everything: Egyptian, Asian and Middle Eastern collections, as well as paintings, including several works by Turner, a room devoted to Impressionism and a Picasso. The advantage is that you can see a varied selection in a little over an hour without boring or tiring the children.

Visiting Kettle’s Yard

We finished by visiting the Kettle’s Yard art gallery, right beside our car park. The temporary exhibition, which was free, was rather sombre because its theme was Syria. In addition to the small exhibition area, you can visit the private collection in Jim and Helen Ede’s former home. Admission to the house is chargeable for most adults, while temporary exhibitions remain free; see the latest information on the Kettle’s Yard website. It is a place worth visiting for lovers of modern and contemporary art. The museum shop may be small, but it had many lovely reproductions.

We returned to the car park after climbing the little mound beside it:

Where to eat in Cambridge

Aromi: a Sicilian café where we had lunch. It offers a wide selection of pizza by the slice. It was good and inexpensive, and the coffee was excellent too—which is rare in England!

Oriental Café: we loved this little restaurant serving homemade dumplings. The premises look unassuming and are on a rather unattractive street outside the historic centre, but the food was delicious and very reasonably priced. The owners were also absolutely lovely, and their cucumber salad was delicious too!

Where can families stay in Cambridge?

We stayed at the Novotel Cambridge North, about a ten-minute drive from central Cambridge. It was convenient for us because we had a car. Without one, reaching the historic centre is less direct: buses may be infrequent and the train takes you to Cambridge station rather than right into the centre. However, the room price was attractive compared with accommodation in historic Cambridge. The children were also delighted to have a swimming pool, which was very good. If you know the Novotel chain, you will be familiar with its family rooms, which have a double bed and a sofa bed for the children. Children’s buffet breakfasts are free. In short, it was comfortable and the best value we found: very comfortable beds, friendly staff, a gym, pool and sauna. I should add that I booked at the last minute. With more forward planning, you may find a charming place in the historic part of the city.

**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****

How do you get to Cambridge?

Direct trains from London King’s Cross take about an hour, making Cambridge possible as a day trip if you set off early. By car, it is roughly 1 hour 20 minutes north of London, two hours from Dover and around two hours from Oxford, depending on traffic. For us, Cambridge was a stop after visiting Bletchley Park, where the Enigma code was broken—I will tell you more about it soon. After Cambridge, we travelled on to explore the Norfolk coast; I will also write about that road trip.

Cambridge or Oxford?

Both cities are clearly worth visiting for their architecture and universities. Oxford is also particularly worthwhile for its museums. You can read my article about Oxford with children. Personally, I preferred Cambridge because I found it more charming. It really is a very pretty, green city, and I could easily have imagined studying there!

And you? Would you like to visit Cambridge?

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The Caminito del Rey as a family

Discovering the Caminito del Rey as a family was a truly wonderful experience during our trip to Andalusia with the children. A few years ago, I had already wanted to venture onto this famous Andalusian path, but it was extremely dangerous at the time as it had no safety measures. It was probably the most dangerous via ferrata in the world! But after many years of closure and extensive renovation work, the Caminito del Rey reopened to the public in 2015, now fully secured. There’s no longer any reason to worry. The path is very well laid out and feels solid! We even found it easier and safer than we had imagined! Easier than other via ferratas we’ve done in the Alps.

The “King’s Path” gets its name because King Alfonso XIII of Spain walked it in 1921 during the inauguration of the dam. During the construction of the dam and the El Chorro hydroelectric power station, workers tragically fell using this makeshift and unsafe route. In the years that followed, bold hikers occasionally ventured onto this abandoned caminito, leading to some unfortunate accidents. In short, that chapter in the history of the Caminito del Rey is well and truly closed. You can now walk this path with your eyes closed — well, almost! From the new route, you can still glimpse the old one: you’ll see it’s a world of difference!

To plan your family trip to the Caminito del Rey, a bit of forward planning and organisation is definitely needed, so I hope this article provides you with all the useful information for your visit.

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Caminito del Rey with kids: be aware of the age restrictions!

This is a very important point! Before including the Caminito del Rey in your Andalusia holiday plans, you should know that children under 8 are not allowed on the trail. Children’s ID is checked at the entrance. The rule is strict. In fact, even if your children are over 8, make sure you have their ID with you. It would be a shame to be turned away when your children are the right age. When we visited, Titpuce was 10 and Ticoeur was 12.

3 days in Florence as a family

We have just spent 3 days in Florence as a family. It wasn’t our first time in the Tuscan capital but it was the first time with our two children. We chose the February school holidays because it is a period with less tourists in Florence. In the spring or summer, I found the city oppressive. Indeed, Florence is ultimately a fairly small city. There quickly is too high a density of tourists because it attracts a lot of people with all the artistic beauty it concentrates!

During these three days in Florence as a family, we took our time. We certainly made a few cultural visits but very few so as not to overwhelm the children with too many museums and too many paintings. I prefer that they remember a few essentials. We therefore alternated visits and walks in the city. Obviously, we tasted la dolce vita, tasted good ice creams and dined in small trattorias. Here I share with you our program for discovering Florence with children, a program that we wanted to be as balanced as possible, between culture and strolling to please the whole family!

Age of children: Ticoeur 14 years old and Titpuce 12 years old. Ticoeur has been learning Italian at college since last September and Titpuce is our little budding artist so Florence was a destination that seemed interesting for both of them.

Travel period: February school holidays. We were very lucky with the weather: bright sunshine every day!

3 days in Florence as a family: our program

Day 1: stroll in the old center, first ice cream and sunset over the city

As I said in the introduction, the historic heart of Florence is not that big. You can discover everything on foot. I would say you can explore the historic heart of Florence from east to west or north to south in just half an hour. In addition, as is often the case in Italy, traffic is extremely limited in the center. Only local residents are allowed to drive through. It’s really appreciable in terms of noise and safety. Florence is a city where it is good to walk with children, without the stress of traffic.

Piazza del Duomo and Piazza di San Giovanni:

For our first walk, we walked near the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore), Giotto’s campanile and the baptistery: a harmonious set of three matching buildings, with impressive architecture marking the beginnings of the Renaissance. And what a pleasure since our last visit: the facades are all beautiful, all clean!

A stone’s throw away, we taste our first schiacciata. It is a specialty of Florence. This is a light, crunchier foccacia served like a sandwich with your choice of filling. Ticoeur and Titpuce really liked it so we chose this snack for each of our on-the-go lunches in Florence (see our good addresses section below). Taking advantage of the sun, we stayed to admire the Duomo square while having a great lunch.

Then, it is time for us to cross the Arno, the river which cuts the city in two, to reach our accommodation located on the other side (Oltrarno).

The Ponte Vecchio:

To go from the historic center to the Oltrarno district, we choose without much surprise the Ponte Vecchio, so known for its small shops on either side. Since the Renaissance, there have been jewelers there because Cosimo I de’ Medici had chased away butchers and other food businesses for a more chic and more hygienic bridge. But it is above all the architecture of the bridge which is interesting with the Vasari corridor above, a passage which allowed Cosimo I to pass from the Offices (his administrative offices) to his Pitti Palace in complete safety. It would be nice to be able to cross this corridor to immerse yourself in the world of the Medici. I love secret passages!

Once in the Oltrarno district and free of our luggage, we walk along the river and taste our first ice cream at the Carraia bridge . We cross back to the other side of the Arno at the Santa Trinita bridge which offers a very beautiful view of the Ponte Vecchio:

Piazza della Signoria:

Head to another unmissable place in the city: the Piazza della Signoria where the buildings from the middle ages are concentrated. We enter the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio to admire the frescoes and sculpted columns (this part is free).

We opt out of taking tickets for the Hall of the 500 because there is already so much to see! In the square, we enjoy the sculptures of the Loggia (it’s also free). We admire the Neptune Fountain, the statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici (the Medici star who had the Uffizi built) and of course Michelangelo’s immense David! In the square, it is a copy of the real sculpture which is in the Accademia Gallery but it really has its effect, especially since we do not plan to visit the Accademia.

Piazzale Michelangelo and the Basilica of San Miniato:

After this artistic and medieval tour, we begin the climb towards Piazzale Michelangelo, famous for its view of Florence. Even though Florence is not very visited in February, everyone present seems to meet in this square to admire the sunset.

But I have a tip for you! You have to go even higher, to the level of the Basilica of San Miniato. Up there, there were very few people: the view is calm and even more romantic in my opinion! We took the opportunity to take some family photos, having learned the lesson from 2023 when we forgot to take photos of the four of us!

As it is Titpuce’s birthday, we return to the hotel to blow out a candle and open the presents. What class to celebrate your 12th birthday in Florence! We then have dinner in a trattoria in the old town to discover Tuscan pasta recipes (see our good addresses section below).

Day 2: the market, Santa Croce and the Uffizi

In the morning, we decide to go to the central market by zigzagging through the northwest of the old town: we pass through Republic Square, then in front of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella with its beautiful colored marble facade:

A stone’s throw from the basilica, for the pleasure of the eyes, we enter an old pharmacy, currently a perfumery: the officina profumo, farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella.

The San Lorenzo district:

We then go to the San Lorenzo district, stronghold of the Medicis. Next to the San Lorenzo church is the building of the Medici chapel but we did not plan to visit it because the afternoon will already be busy! We just want to enjoy the atmosphere of the central market and the leather market, located in this same area. The leather merchants are outside, all around the central market hall. Inside, we look at the different food stalls. If to your taste, this is a place to try tripe sandwiches, another specialty of Florence.

As we still have a little time before our visit to the Uffizi booked for 3 p.m., we make a detour to the Santa Croce church. It is a very pleasant and lively neighborhood.

We return to the banks of the Arno to go to the Uffizi for the great artistic visit of our stay!

The Uffizi in Florence:

It can be complicated to take children to such a large museum. How to interest them without boring them? Ticoeur and Titpuce love museums and exhibitions and have been used to these kinds of visits since they were little. I still made sure to adapt the visit for them. As a student, I took a course at the Ecole du Louvre and luckily I learned quite a bit about Italian painting. I therefore took it upon myself to comment on the best-known works of the Uffizi in a simplified manner. Therefore, we did not try the audio guide. I played the role of children’s guide!

We mainly went from famous painting to famous painting, which already took us 2h30! I think 2 hours in the Uffizi would have been perfect for a family visit. The last half hour, Ticoeur and Titpuce were getting a little tired. For adjusting the visit, I recommend lingering in the rooms of the corridor on the east side where the works of Botticelli can be found. In the west corridor, you can go faster so as not to tire the children but you should definitely not miss Caravaggio ‘s Medusa located at the end of the route.

Practical information for booking Uffizi tickets:

We had purchased our tickets in advance to avoid the queue at the ticket office: see the official Uffizi website. Booking online adds a commission of €4 per person but we were afraid of the queue for this famous museum so we preferred to anticipate and I think it’s a good idea. At least the entrance tickets are not very expensive for such a rich museum! The normal price is €12 per adult and it is free for under 18s (excluding €4 commission). Good deal in February: there was a great special offer out of season for a combined ticket Uffizi + Palazzo Pitti + Boboli Gardens + marquetry museum for €18 per adult and free for children! It was perfect ! Please note that you must visit the Offices first to validate the ticket.

Uffizi courtyard and loggia at night — The Uffizi in Florence

Piazza Santo Spirito:

After leaving the Uffizi, we had a drink on the terrace on Santo Spirito square in Oltrarno. A place whose atmosphere we really liked. We then had dinner in this same area.

Day 3: the marquetry museum and Palazzo Pitti

Opificio delle Pietre Dure:

In our combined ticket, there was the possibility of visiting this small marquetry museum. Papa Voyage and Titpuce are particularly fans of this technique and working with stones so it was especially a museum for them! In any case, it’s pretty, sophisticated and the museum is not very big. A pleasant visit for a quiet morning.

As we are in the San Lorenzo district, we return to the market because I had spotted a small handbag that I fell for! After all, it was my birthday!

Palazzo Pitti and its Boboli gardens:

This is the second major visit of our stay. The Pitti Palace, located in Oltrarno, is the great Renaissance castle, home of the Medici.

It is very imposing so not necessarily very elegant seen from the outside but what richness inside! The royal apartments are decorated with pomp, a little too much perhaps ;-).

The part called Modern Art didn’t really appeal that much to us. So we picked up the pace and lingered in two other sections which we really liked. First of all, the costume gallery and its fashion museum:

Then, on the ground floor, we were charmed by the immense trompe l’oeil paintings on the walls of the “Treasures of the Grand Dukes” section:

In total, we spent two hours in Palazzo Pitti. We also walked the paths of the Boboli Gardens. These are the palace gardens. It looks more like a large public park than a palace garden but it was nice for the views of Florence:

Hills and cypress trees seen from the Boboli Gardens — View from the Boboli Gardens, looking out of town

We were lucky enough to have a combined ticket but if that’s not the case for you, I would say that the gardens are not a must-see and you can just buy the tickets for the palace.

Since we were already on the south side of the Arno and I wanted a beautiful sunset for my birthday, we returned to the viewpoint of the Basilica San Miniato. The light was even more beautiful than the first day!

Florence as a family: our good addresses

Ice cream parlors in Florence:

La Gelateria La Carraia: nice, lots of choice, well located on the river and only €2.50 per cone.
La Sorbettiere: few flavors but it was very good and a stone’s throw from Santo Spirito square which we really like!

Restaurants in Florence:

We mostly ate pasta, so Primi. Fresh pici are a specialty that we particularly appreciated and ate in every variation!

Casalingua: a family and economical trattoria located in Oltrarno.
I’Brindellone: an institution in Florence, also an economical address in Oltrarno (better to reserve a table in advance).
Ristorante Le Cappelle Medicee: a slightly more upscale trattoria located in the San Lorenzo district. Everything was very good but therefore more expensive than the two previous addresses.

To taste the schiacciata :

There are small schiacciata sellers all over the city but I will give you three central and economical addresses. Each time, it is possible to have a glass of Chianti really cheap but we stayed serious for lunch 🙂

I Girone de’ Ghiotti: the most famous spot! The best schiacciata of our stay. At midday, there were few people but just a few minutes later the queue was getting quite long!
I fratellini: right next to the previous one with a little less waiting.
Lo Schiacciavino: in the Santa Croce district

Accommodation in Florence:

We had booked a quadruple room in an exceptional building, rich in period paintings. The room is very dark because it overlooks a small interior courtyard but what a decor! A very Florentine historical setting! It’s a high-end address, more expensive than what we’re used to booking but we had two birthdays to celebrate so we treated ourselves to this luxury!

I should point out that our quadruple room was €200 per night (the maximum of our usual range) but be careful: by doing a few simulations of dates, I saw that the same room could cost more than double per night! In this case, I really don’t recommend it! It’s beautiful but still! What a budget! It’s not worth double. In short, I let you control the price for your dates and personally I would not spend more than €200 per night: Palazzo Giucciardini quadruple room. Otherwise, generally speaking, Florence is not very big so any location in the center or Oltrarno will be suitable for your stay. I have a preference for the area around Santo Spirito Square, a favorite place! For breakfast, the ideal is to do like the locals and enjoy a coffee and a cornetto in a small bar or a pasticceria. Near our accommodation, we liked the freshness of the croissants at Pasticceria Marino but there are lots of similar little places everywhere!

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When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
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The advantages of visiting Florence in February:

There are fewer people in Florence in February! Nothing to do with our previous visits at Easter or in summer. The city quickly becomes too full because it is ultimately small. In February, Venice attracts more people with its carnival. Florence is not deserted, far from it, but it’s just right!
Winter is the best way to avoid the extreme heat that Florentines suffer from. It is a city that regularly experiences heatwaves and lack of water.
In February, it’s cheaper: I told you above about the great promotion on the combined ticket that we bought to visit the Uffizi + Pitti/Boboli.
It is easier to find accommodation and prices are considerably lower than in warmer months.
Even in February, we are not safe from big blue skies! However, weather-wise, we were just lucky. Don’t go to Florence in February if you’re absolutely looking for the sun.

What are the disadvantages of visiting Florence in February? Some sites, monuments or museum rooms may be closed for renovation or maintenance. For example, during our stay, Brunelleschi’s famous dome, which covers the Duomo, could not be visited. Our program was already full without being too busy, but if I had had to choose another paid visit, I would have opted for the dome. I visited it a long time ago and it left an impression on me. Finally, there are also some restaurants and ice cream parlors closed but frankly, there are enough left!

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And after Florence?

After our three-day stay in Florence as a family, we hired a car at the airport (€23 per day). Then, we continued with two days in Siena and the surrounding area.

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And you? Are you thinking of visiting Florence as a family?

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Family ski vacation in “Les 3 Vallées”: which resort to choose?

Choose Les 3 Vallées for a family stay? Les 3 Vallées is the largest ski area in the world! A whole program, a whole promise and a question: which resort to choose to enjoy the 3 Valleys with your family? In December, we spent a week skiing there with the children. Ticoeur and Titpuce have been skiing since they were little. They are now 14 and 11 years old. We thought they had the level to take advantage of the incredible 3 Valleys ski area. However, some resorts in the 3 Valleys are more suitable for families than others. I will therefore share our experience with you to help you enjoy the 3 Valleys during a ski trip with the children. And I hope to enlighten you on the resorts that we found to be more family oriented.

The 3 Vallées are made up of the Courchevel valley, the Méribel valley and the valley which is home to Les Ménuires and Val Thorens. The 4 stations that I have just mentioned are the main resorts. If we add the small resorts of Brides-les-Bains, Saint Martin de Belleville and Orelle, that makes 7 resorts in the ski area. In total, Les 3 Vallées offers 600km of slopes! It is enormous ! We skied from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. with just a quick break for lunch in picnic mode. Suffice to say that we took full advantage of the ski area and the ski pass! Here is our feedback on each of the 3 valleys and the main resorts…

The Méribel valley: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family

The advantages of Méribel:

Méribel is located in the central valley of the area. That’s probably why this station is symbolized by a heart. It is in the heart of the 3 Valleys and this is its greatest asset! This therefore means that if you stay in Méribel, you will have as much ease in going skiing towards the Courchevel valley to the east as towards the Ménuires valley/Val Thorens to the west. The connections are very simple and effective.
The pretty trees! In the Méribel valleys, we see a lot of fir trees. The landscape is therefore particularly beautiful thanks to the vegetation. The other two valleys have few fir trees in comparison and therefore offer whiter and more deserted landscapes.
The family atmosphere: we found that there was a family atmosphere in Méribel and that it was very pleasant.
The slopes we liked in Méribel:
- the blue slopes “Fawn”, “Biche”, “Mont Vallon”, “Combe du Vallon”, “Venturon”
- the red slopes “Marcassin” and especially “Chamoix”
- The green trail of animals. Indeed, even if it is really very easy for good skiers, it offers a beautiful slope, quite long, with animal sculptures to admire along the way.
- Note that the “Legends” chairlifts are truly incredible in terms of comfort and efficiency.

The disadvantages of Méribel:

The only downside concerns certain slopes: there are slopes that we did not like on the Méribel-Mottaret side and that we could hardly avoid (for example, the green slope “Perdrix”). Also, we found more icy tracks than in the other two valleys. Perhaps just due to weather conditions we had. Finally, on the main slopes of the “Pas du Lac 2” and “Saulire express 2” lifts there were often a lot of people.

In conclusion, Méribel is a very good choice for a ski trip with children, between its family atmosphere and its central location with a pretty fir tree decor as a bonus!

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The Ménuires valley/Val Thorens:

Val Thorens is the highest station. Les Ménuires is a resort located in the same valley but lower down. As these two stations are really very different, I will devote a section to each.

Les Ménuires: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family

The advantages of Les Ménuires:

Les Ménuires, great resort for families : we found that Les Ménuires was the most family-friendly resort in the 3 Vallées area. This is where we encountered the most children during our stay. Other people confirmed to us the family spirit of the resort. The resort’s slogan is “friendly Ménuires” and we honestly found that the station deserved its nickname! We felt very good there.
ESF lessons: only Titpuce took ski lessons with the ESF in Les Ménuires and she found that it was her best ESF experience! The ski instructor was great! There is obviously a bit of chance in terms of instructors but I must say that the welcome at the ESF office in Les Ménuires was very warm and the director very friendly!
The proximity of Val Thorens: as Les Ménuires and Val Thorens are in the same valley, it is very easy to go from one to the other. And the peaks of Val Thorens are an experience not to be missed in terms of high altitude landscape and snow quality (see below).
On the slopes: big favorites in Les Ménuires!
- the “Pointe de la Masse” in the morning, with the beautiful view of the summits (black, red and blue slopes to vary the pleasures – for example, we liked “Bouquetin” and “Vallons”). At the top you can see how the gondola works, this allows you to take a little informative break when you arrive at the station. There was also a whole Lego model!
- the slopes of the “Becca” chairlift: we loved the red “Becca” slope and there were surprisingly few people there! We took this one quite a lot! The blue slope “Lac des Combes” was very good too.
- The blue slopes “Grand Lac” and “Pâturage”
Antigel mountain restaurant: really very good! So yes, it’s still expensive (compared to the restaurants we were used to when we eat on the Italian side in Montgenèvre) but for now, all the restaurants are expensive in the 3 Valleys (if you have any good deals, let me know in a comment!). We mainly had a picnic at the bottom of the slopes but our experience of one lunchtime at Antigel was quite positive: very friendly service and good food. I particularly recommend the trout with Beaufort.
Au Petit Rendez-vous (Les Ménuires Reberty): a brasserie-style menu with, of course, local specialities as well. Friendly welcome and a good lunchtime set menu.

The disadvantages of Les Ménuires:

Further from Courchevel: based in Les Ménuires, it will be more difficult to enjoy the Courchevel part of the 3 Vallées area. Let’s say that without the constraints of the ESF courses it is entirely doable. On the other hand, for only half a day it’s tight. Obviously, there is already plenty to do in Val Thorens and Méribel which are quickly accessible.
What about architecture then? I had often been told that Les Ménuires was very good skiing but not beautiful at all. Well, in the end, I was pleasantly surprised because yes, there are some residences that are not very elegant but they have held up well over the years. There’s nothing really too naughty and it’s not very dense. I also think that the snow front part was well thought out and I liked the sculpture in the shape of a modern bell tower as well as the charm of the little baskets, very vintage ski lifts!

In conclusion, Les Ménuires is a big favorite for us and therefore a very good choice for a ski trip with children, between its family atmosphere and its slopes!

Val Thorens: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family

Val Thorens is the highest resort in the 3 Valleys. It is located at an altitude of 2300m. Besides, we had a bit of a headache when we arrived all the way from sea level. Val Thorens is the resort where we stayed because we found an economical apartment there. But, as you will see below, I do not recommend staying in Val Thorens. Ski there yes, but not sleep there.

The advantages of Val Thorens:

The quality of the snow thanks to the altitude: the snow at the summits really has a different texture! Velvety cotton that crunches under your skis! It’s divine!
The panoramas from the summits: There are many peaks over 3000 meters. We found that the most dizzying view was at Cime Caron. Just the arrival of the cable car is impressive!
Access to the Orelle slope: a pleasant surprise is this very pleasant resort with very good slopes. You have to allow time to pass over to Orelle and come back but it’s worth it!
The possibility of starting very early: as Val Thorens is located above Les Ménuires, we started at 8:30 a.m., before the ski lifts and we descended to the bottom of Les Ménuires where we showed up for the opening of the lifts at 9 a.m. It was perfect for optimizing our long ski days!
Our favorite slopes in Val Thorens: a lot! With a particular crush on the slopes of the Peclet funitel.
- The blue slopes “Hermine”, “Tétras” and “Tête rond”
- the red slopes “Boismint”, “Col de l’audzin”, “Lac blanc” and especially “Christine” which was often deserted and yet great (its name is a tribute to the Olympic skier Christine Goitschel).
- the slopes of the Orelle resort

The disadvantages of Val Thorens:

Not really a family resort: in Val Thorens, there were mainly young students, often very good skiers but frankly dangerously fast on the slopes. Of the entire 3 valleys area, this is where we encountered the most “crazy people”! Titpuce is not yet fast enough or alert enough to anticipate complicated situations at certain track intersections. We preferred to enjoy Val Thorens and its attractions while Titpuce was in ESF lessons in Les Ménuires. With Ticoeur, it was simpler because he has more experience. Even on the green slopes, there were a lot of young adults on snowboards: I don’t think this is ideal if you have children learning to ski on these same green slopes. Finally, in Val Thorens, the party starts very early and we didn’t like having to return to the resort (because we were staying there) in the company of skiers who had drunk too much at Folie Douce and who were no longer very attentive on the slopes back down. Without even the problem of sobriety, the return to the station at the end of the day is truly chaotic: too high a density of skiers on the slopes which lead to the station. Finally, there was too much noise and parties in the residence where we were staying (and in many other residences I think). Fortunately, our immediate neighbors were calm but we could have really been right next to all night parties! I would like to point out that we were in the 3 Valleys a week before the school holidays in France. No doubt there are more families during school holidays. However, it was clear to us that there was not the same atmosphere in Val Thorens as in the other resorts of the 3 Valleys.
In conclusion, Val Thorens offers exceptional ski conditions! If your children are very good skiers, we recommend taking advantage of the 3 Valleys pass. On the other hand, we do not recommend sleeping there during a family stay.

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The Courchevel valley: the advantages and disadvantages for skiing with the family

The advantages of Courchevel:

Courchevel beyond the clichés: we had already stayed in Courchevel when the children were younger and we really liked it! We only took the Courchevel package (not the 3 Valleys) and it was more than sufficient at the time. Courchevel is the 3 Valleys resort with the most slopes (108 slopes). In any case, we felt that the density of skiers was lower even when, the previous time, we were there in the middle of the February school holidays. Overall, there are fewer people on the slopes than in the other resorts in the area. There are a lot of very wide slopes with a lot of blue slopes. In short, very pleasant ski areas for children whatever their level.

The slopes we liked in Courchevel:
- the blue slopes: “biollay”, “creux”, “altiport”, “pralong”, “col de la Loze”
- the red slopes: “Marmots”, “Saulire”

And as always, art makes its way to Courchevel. In 2024 we saw works by Jimenez Deredia, an artist from Costa Rica. In 2026, we have just seen sculptures by Andrea Roggi.

The disadvantages of Courchevel:

As it is the easternmost station, it is very well connected to Méribel. But going skiing in Val Thorens and Les Ménuires would take way too much time if you have to juggle your children’s ESF lessons. Moreover, there are several sites in Courchevel: Courchevel village is central and the connection around 1850 is very fast. Courchevel 1850 is perfectly located but even more unaffordable than the rest of the resort. Courchevel-Morind is really too far away in our opinion and in Courchevel La Tania, we did not have good snow because it is much lower.
The difficulty in finding accommodation: When we stayed for a week in Courchevel, we took advantage of a good deal through my family. Since then, I have often looked at the apartments on offer in Courchevel and I have never found anything within our budget (by far!). But who knows? I’ll keep watching in the future just in case…

In conclusion, Courchevel is a resort that we liked and which offers enough skiing space for the whole week if you don’t want to take the 3 Valleys pass. All you have to do is find affordable accommodation!

The 3 Valleys: which resort to choose for family skiing?

In conclusion, the 3 Valleys is an exceptional ski area to discover with the family! Depending on the age and skiing level of your children, a single resort pass is enough to really enjoy a week of skiing, but the pricing is such that you don’t have to add that much to the family pass to have access to all of Les 3 Vallées. In any case, the extra cost is clearly worth it if your children are good skiers.

Which resort should you stay in in Les 3 Vallées?

To enjoy the 3 Valleys in a family atmosphere, we recommend Les Ménuires (our favorite) then Méribel to be in the center of the area. Finally, Courchevel is the resort that can best be considered without a 3 Valleys package (if you have better luck than us in finding affordable accommodation). As for Val Thorens, it’s a great ski adventure but it’s not ideal with young children.

Our budget:

Below, for information, are our main expenses for a week of skiing in Les 3 Vallées (2024).

Accommodation in Les 3 Vallées:
- Small two-bedroom apartment in Val Thorens: €880 (in 2024, the week before the French school holidays!! The UK school holidays fell at different times that year.)
- Small two-bedroom apartment in Les Ménuires – Bruyères: €1,300 (the New Year week 2025)
- Studio + mezzanine in Les Ménuires – Reberty: €1,600 (the New Year week 2026, by booking at the last minute!)
ESF lessons for 6 mornings: €228 (winter 2026)
Hire of all the equipment for the four of us: €278 (at Ski Republic in Val Thorens, outside school holidays, very friendly), €389 at Ski Republic Les Ménuires Croisette in 2025 and €564 in 2026 at Sport 2000 Les Ménuires Reberty (friendly staff).
Les 3 Vallées family lift pass for the week: €1,340 (New Year week 2026)

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Finally, and most importantly: we will return! For sure ! Especially since we are often lucky enough to have English school holidays later than those in France. Clearly, this is a major asset for enjoying the 3 Vallées without the crowds and on a smaller budget!

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And you ? Do you know the 3 Vallées? What is your favorite station?

Mallorca with children at October half-term

We spent a family week in Mallorca during the October half-term holidays, and we were delighted with our choice! It completely reconciled us with the destination. Our previous summer experience in Mallorca had been our worst encounter with overcrowding anywhere in the Mediterranean. We had truly never seen anything like it! Yet the island is undeniably beautiful and has a great deal to offer. We therefore chose to return to Mallorca in October, and absolutely loved it. We enjoyed it so much that I want to share all the advantages of visiting Mallorca at October half-term and everything you can do there with children at this time of year. Pretty stone villages, cultural attractions, natural beauty, walks and hikes, with the sea never far away — not forgetting the delicious food, lively markets and charming accommodation (those beautiful fincas!). The largest of the Balearic Islands offers a wonderfully varied programme for the whole family.

Children’s ages: Titpuce was 11 and Ticoeur was 13.

Travel dates: the final week of October.

Weather: we had wonderful weather, with temperatures a little above 20°C throughout the week, plenty of sunshine and a little wind — although I cannot promise you the same, as it remains unpredictable!

Visitor numbers: far from the summer crowds, but still lively. The perfect balance!

Eight days in Mallorca at October half-term

We had eight full days on the island. As an example, here is our day-by-day itinerary. Be warned that some days are busy because we get up early and are not very good at simply lounging around! We improvised completely once we arrived, so feel free to adapt everything to your own constraints, pace and interests.

Our itinerary

Day 1: Sineu market, the village of Artà, Capdepera and a swim at Cala Gat (centre and east)
Day 2: Camí de Cala Bóquer hike, Pollença and Cap de Formentor (north-west)
Day 3: Alcúdia, Penya des Migdia hike, and the Yannick and Ben Jakober Foundation (north-west)
Day 4: Sa Calobra and the Torrent de Pareis hike, followed by the northern villages of Fornalutx, Deià and Valldemossa (north)
Day 5: La Trapa hike, followed by Palma de Mallorca and the salt pans at the end of the day (south-west and south)
Day 6: the Three Peaks hike and the village of Sóller (north)
Day 7: Punta des Caló hike and a swim at Cala Mesquida, followed by the Drach Caves (east)
Day 8: walks along the southern coast, including Cala s’Almunia and Caló des Moro, followed by Cala Figuera (south)

You will find full details of the villages and beaches we visited below.

Our car hire in Mallorca

To get around, we hired a car at Palma de Mallorca airport. We had a small Dacia for €65 for the week.

Discovering Mallorca’s most beautiful villages

In October, the sea plays a smaller part in the trip, making it an ideal time to enjoy Mallorca’s magnificent villages. Temperatures are pleasant and the villages remain lively without being crowded. You can enjoy the different markets and still have lunch outside. Of all the Balearic Islands, I think Mallorca has the prettiest villages and most beautiful traditional houses. Here are our favourites:

Our eight favourite villages in Mallorca

In the north…

Valldemossa

I loved this village! I think it was my favourite. Admittedly, I am slightly biased because I am a Chopin fan, and this is the village where Chopin and George Sand spent a winter in the hope that the climate would improve the composer’s health. Chopin worked on his famous Preludes here. The village is full of charm, with its old stone buildings, little square and beautiful setting. As you can see, the landscape is still wonderfully green in October:

Fornalutx

Very small but incredibly pretty. I loved it! It was the perfect lunch stop, as there are attractive terraces in the village centre. I recommend the tapas bar Can Benet. Once again, you could have told me it was spring and I would have believed you!

Sóller and Port de Sóller

From Sóller, you can take a wooden tram to Port de Sóller on the coast, or drive there. We had already visited in summer. Both the inland town and the port are pleasant.

Among the well-known northern villages, there is also Deià, although we liked it less than the others. It is still pretty, but if you are short of time, this is the one I would remove from the itinerary.

Deià village clinging to the hills of Mallorca — Deià

Pollença

Possibly Mallorca’s best-known village, and definitely not to be missed. We had already visited during a summer holiday, when it was packed. Pollença is famous for its Sunday market and its beautiful narrow streets and steps. Here is a photo from six years ago — it does not make us feel any younger!

Artà and its fortress

Artà is a sizeable, charming and lively town. We walked along the medieval fortifications and around the Sanctuary of Sant Salvador:

After a few tapas, we continued to a neighbouring village, Capdepera. This one was much too quiet for us. Perhaps it is better to visit on Wednesday for the market.

Rooftops of Capdepera among olive trees — Capdepera

In the centre of the island…

Sineu and its market

Sineu lies right in the middle of Mallorca. Its Wednesday morning market feels very traditional and includes a livestock section.

Fruit and cheese stalls at Sineu market — In the south…

Cala Figuera

It was about time I mentioned a village by the sea! Cala Figuera is a beautiful fishing village set around a rocky inlet. The photo lets the scenery speak for itself. Not far away, beside the next cove, we had lunch outside at Es Pontas Bar y Cerveceria. It was very good.

Also by the sea, we enjoyed an evening walk around Portocolom harbour, followed by dinner at El Baul.

Can you swim in Mallorca at October half-term?

Swimming was not our priority on this trip, which was probably for the best because good swimming conditions at October half-term are not guaranteed. That said, the sea is normally still warm enough in October. During our stay, the water was 20–21°C, very close to the air temperature. Papa Voyage found it too cold, but it was perfectly fine for me, the children and quite a few English visitors who were there :-). Either way, it is naturally much warmer than in spring.

Although we were not planning a beach holiday, it was lovely to take an occasional dip, especially after our hikes. Mallorca has an enormous number of beaches and coves. We chose them according to our itinerary and the conditions. Sometimes, despite passing beautiful coves, we did not swim because of the cool breeze. These are the three places where we had the opportunity to swim:

Cala Gat

A very pretty cove. It was actually the busiest one we saw, although, as you can see in the photo, it was still very reasonable.

Cala Mesquida

A more traditional beach that is very child-friendly because the water stays shallow for several metres.

Cala Bóquer

We swam here during the hike that leads to the cove. It makes a motivating destination!

Family attractions in Mallorca

The Drach Caves

Even in October, they were busy. The caves contain beautiful formations, with particularly delicate stalactites and stalagmites. We enjoyed the short classical concert at the end of the tour and the brief boat ride. Allow around one hour for the entire visit. Information and reservations are available on the Drach Caves website.

The Es Trenc salt pans

We did not take the visitor tour, so I cannot tell you whether it is worthwhile. The salt pans were not far from our second accommodation, however, and we stopped for a few photos before sunset.

Alcúdia

Alcúdia’s old town is very charming and stands beside the remains of the Roman city of Pol·lèntia. Construction of its medieval walls began around 1300 and continued through the 14th century. Walking along them gives you lovely views over the town. Alcúdia is perfect for a stroll and a glass of sangria outside!

Sa Bassa Blanca Museum — Yannick and Ben Jakober Foundation

Not far from Alcúdia, we visited this art foundation, which displays several entertaining works in its gardens. The octopus was the children’s particular favourite!

Cap de Formentor

This headland is magnificent and not to be missed in Mallorca. The panoramic road has several viewpoints where you can stop for photos. The peninsula also has several attractive coves.

Palma Cathedral

This time, we made only a brief visit to Palma de Mallorca, just long enough to see its magnificent cathedral and the surrounding neighbourhood again:

Hiking in Mallorca at October half-term

Hiking was the main purpose of our Mallorca holiday. The October temperatures were perfect; summer is far too hot for walking. Spring is probably another good season for hiking in Mallorca. I have written a complete article about our seven family hikes in Mallorca. All take around two to two and a half hours, apart from the final, more demanding route. Children who enjoy walking can complete all of them. The article contains full details of these hikes:

Torrent de Pareis in the north (2½ hours, with an option to extend the route)
Camí de Cala Bóquer in the north-east (two hours return)
Penya des Migdia in the north-east (two hours return)
La Trapa in the north-west (2½ hours return)
Punta des Caló in the north-east (two hours return)
From cove to cove in the south (several 30-minute walks)
The Three Peaks of the Serra de Tramuntana (five-hour circular route)

Where to stay in Mallorca with children at October half-term

One advantage of October half-term is the wider choice of beautiful places to stay at much gentler prices than in summer. We did not try to minimise driving distances because everywhere can be reached by car on a day trip. Above all, we wanted to stay in traditional buildings, which are one of Mallorca’s distinctive features. They often have swimming pools, although the water is too cool at this time of year — even the sea was warmer. Here are two places we liked:

A very secluded property in the centre of the island near Petra: Agroturismo Son Burgues. It is a finca, a traditional country property, and therefore very beautiful from the outside. The interior was not to our taste, but it was extremely clean and spacious. It was perfect, and we loved eating breakfast overlooking the pool. The owners’ farm is right next door.

A guesthouse in the south-west, near Campos: Finca Sa Canova. Once again, it consists of traditional stone buildings. There are several guest rooms, small but charming, and shared areas including a pool, which was too cool at this time of year. Breakfast is incredible and the welcome is warm.

If you stay there, or elsewhere in the area, I recommend the excellent restaurant Es Moli de Vent for traditional food in an old windmill — Mallorca has many historic windmills.

Finally, you will have noticed that most of our excursions were in the north of the island. It would make sense to add accommodation there and divide the trip among three bases. If you do not like moving frequently, however, you can also choose a single base and drive a little farther each day.

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In conclusion, it was a beautiful trip, and the October sunshine and pleasant temperatures did us the world of good: a real lift between the return to school and winter. The whole family enjoyed this Mallorca holiday. We discovered sides of the island beyond its beaches, focusing on hikes, villages and a few attractions for the children. As on our previous visit, we ate very well and loved having lunch outside. It was a wonderful way to extend the feeling of summer as it faded away.

Mallorcan ensaimada dusted with icing sugar — Ensaimada: a Mallorcan pastry you have to try!

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So, who would like to discover Mallorca at October half-term?

You may also want to reread our article about our summer family holiday in Mallorca to discover other places and sightseeing ideas. We definitely preferred this October half-term trip to our earlier visit, however.

A week in the sunshine of Tenerife with the familyDiscovering Tenerife with the children : tourism, hiking, swimming and whales

7 family hikes in MallorcaOur 7 hikes as a family in Mallorca during the autumn term-break

A week in MenorcaAll you need to know to spend your family holidays in Minorca !

5 hikes in Tenerife with the kidsOur family hikes in Tenerife in the Teide and Anaga national parks

10 days in Madeira: our practical guideMadeira with kids: our trip during the Easter holidays

12 family hikes in MadeiraAll the details for our numerous hikes with the kids in Madeira

7 family hikes in Mallorca

During the autumn term-break, we went to Mallorca to hike as a family on this Balearic island that we already knew and that we wanted to discover in a different light. Hiking with the kids in Mallorca was a really good idea! There are easy hikes in Mallorca, suitable for children, but also some more difficult hikes for families used to walking. The climate at the end of October was ideal. We had 22-23°C every day. These are seasonal norms. Obviously, weather is not an exact science so we are delighted to have had very good weather during our week of hiking in Mallorca!

Our 7 hikes in Mallorca as a family:

Torrent de Pareis: hiking in a gorge

A magnificent hike in a very impressive gorge. To get to the start of the hike, the road which goes down to the sea is quite winding and very beautiful (be careful of travel sickness!). At the bottom, we arrive at the sea at Es Calabra. There is then a small path which leads to this mouth marking the arrival of the Torrent de Pareis riverbed:

At this location, there are still tourists who come to see this very photogenic beach. They swim, take photos and leave. However, the most beautiful part is at the back, when you start to go up the riverbed, venturing into the gorge. At the beginning, there are two or three passages where you have to take off your shoes. There are lots of small stones at the bottom of the water… it hurts a little so we take it slowly. Ideally, bring swimming slippers for the start of the hike.

Our one-week family itinerary in southern Sardinia

This summer we spent a week in southern Sardinia with the children. We really wanted to return to this island after our two weeks in northern Sardinia a few years ago. Sardinian beaches and gastronomy were what we were looking for before starting the children’s school year! This time, we chose to make a loop from Cagliari, discovering the entire southern half of the island. We turned counterclockwise but it didn’t matter. It was the coincidence of our accommodations. If you too are planning to discover the south of Sardinia during a family road trip, then here is all the information we can give you!

Age of the children during this trip: 13 years old for Ticoeur and 11 years old for Titpuce.

Period of the trip: we left the very last week of August in order to have fewer people because Sardinia is very busy during the first three weeks of August. Early July would also be a good time (see our previous trip to northern Sardinia).

Weather: We arrived just after strong storms in the Mediterranean. Result? Temperatures were barely above 20 degrees and the sea had cooled down quite a bit. We also had a lot of wind. In the end, while we mainly thought we would enjoy the beaches, we changed our plans and we walked more and took advantage of the hiking trails. We adapted and had a great week! Anyway, the weather is always unpredictable and at least we avoided the heatwave!

Our one-week itinerary in southern Sardinia:

Exactly, we spent 8 days in the south of Sardinia. To carry out our roadtrip, we rented a car at Cagliari airport.

A one-week family road trip in Kent

For once, there were only three of us on this trip to Kent. Titpuce got to be an only child for our week travelling around Kent in a campervan. Her big brother was at a theatre camp in… Kent! That was pure coincidence, honestly! I may be an anxious mum, but I did not go so far as to spend my holiday 100 metres from his camp ;-). We were in a completely different area, at the other end of the county. Really! I had better stop justifying myself before you start to find it suspicious…

Kent had been on our list for a long time. It is the first county in southern England you reach after crossing the Channel from Calais. We pass through whenever we travel between France and England, but we are normally in a hurry and have never taken the time to stop. Simply crossing Kent repeatedly was clearly not an effective way to discover it, so this time we made it our destination, completely independently of any trip to France. Here is our one-week campervan itinerary around Kent.

We first headed to Canterbury in the heart of Kent, then travelled clockwise around the eastern part of the county.

Our Kent itinerary

Canterbury ❤: a charming, historic city on a human scale

Canterbury Cathedral, with its Romanesque and Gothic architecture, is one of England’s oldest and most important Christian buildings and forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is especially famous as the place where Archbishop Thomas Becket was murdered. Titpuce had just studied the dispute between Henry II and Becket in history lessons. I love it when sightseeing brings the school curriculum to life! To give you an idea of how much we enjoyed the Canterbury Cathedral: we spent three hours there, including two on a special family tour. Our guide was brilliant, like a completely passionate teacher. There were only two families and time flew by. Adult admission was charged and our family tour was free when we visited, but tours and prices change, so check the current options before going.

Canterbury has beautiful architecture and I loved its bucolic atmosphere. The walk beside the water is delightful. Some visitors take a traditional boat tour with a ‘gondolier’ – something for next time! Here are a few photos of the historic centre:

If you are not touring in a campervan, Canterbury makes an excellent base for spending a few days in Kent. Many places are only a short journey away. It is not as expensive as London, but accommodation is hardly cheap, probably because the city is so popular and charming.

Whitstable and its oysters

Whitstable is barely 20 minutes from Canterbury and offers a welcome breath of sea air. Numerous stalls and restaurants serve local oysters overlooking the water. To be honest, I do not like them as much as the oysters I eat in Brittany, Normandy or along France’s Atlantic coast. Try them and tell me what you think! Seafood platters without oysters are also available. The beach is large and pebbly, like those near where we live.

Margate: a very old seaside resort that feels both faded and modern

Fortunately, a friend had warned me that I would not like Margate’s famous beach. Its golden sand may be attractive, but in summer it is extremely crowded because it is easy to reach by train from London, and there was an unpleasant smell of decomposing seaweed. Since I expected to be disappointed, Margate ultimately delivered some pleasant surprises – though not the beach, obviously! What did we enjoy in Margate? We had an excellent experience at Turner Contemporary, where the temporary exhibition was wonderful. The gallery opened in 2011 and its exterior architecture has attracted plenty of criticism; I also find it rather unsuccessful. Nevertheless, it presents contemporary artists, admission is free, and during our visit there was a magnificent exhibition by Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes. We loved it! Check the current programme and opening days before your visit.

From the outside, the gallery did not look very promising, but I am glad we went in!

In Margate’s small centre, we came across this pretty 16th-century Tudor house. Sadly, it was not open to the public.

We then visited a very curious place: the Shell Grotto. An enormous collection of shells arranged in patterns and covering every wall was discovered beneath a house in Margate. Nobody knows why it was created. A mad artist, perhaps? It is frustrating not to know the story behind this man-made grotto, but Titpuce and Papa Voyage are great shell enthusiasts and drive me mad with their garden collection, so this mysterious and admittedly rather kitsch place had to be visited. Admission is charged and it feels a little expensive for such a small attraction, but shell fans will enjoy it!

Margate is also a meeting place for artists, hipsters and lovers of old objects. It has several enormous antique shops: truly impressive Aladdin’s caves such as RG Scotts Furniture Mart and Paraphernalia, among others.

Interior of a retro shop in Margate — RG Scotts Furniture Mart

Shall I show you Margate beach, then? You cannot say I did not warn you! We visited at the worst time of year, so there must be quieter periods. I cannot promise that the smell of seaweed ever disappears, though; check recent local conditions. The white concrete-and-glass gallery can be seen again in the distance.

Leaving Margate and driving east, you will find sandy beaches that are much less crowded. Along the coast are the medieval Reculver Towers and the remains of a Roman fort, worth a short stop. Next come the chalk formations of Botany Bay.

Botany Bay

It is certainly pretty, but do not be misled by the angle of my photograph: it is not as spectacular as Étretat in Normandy or Old Harry Rocks in Dorset, west of our home. The cliffs are not very high either. I still recommend this natural site with its chalk formations and golden-sand beach, but only outside the main season. In mid-August, probably the worst possible time, it was crowded and unfortunately rather dirty. Out of season, it should be perfect for a wild coastal walk.

Sandwich ❤ : a picturesque little town

Friends had recommended this small medieval town to us. It is adorable! You do not need very long because it is small, but its architecture is exactly our style. After walking through the lanes and beside the water, we had a drink near the river before finding an overnight spot just outside town. Sandwich makes a lovely stop in Kent and had several tempting restaurants.

Deal

From Sandwich, we followed the coast south and stopped in Deal. It is not an essential stop, but Titpuce had finished her book and wanted a bookshop to replenish her supplies. Deal is large enough to have plenty of shops. Since we did not want to limit ourselves to shopping and we have English Heritage membership, we visited Deal Castle, a fort built by Henry VIII to defend England against the French and Spanish. Its bastions form the shape of a Tudor rose. You can only see that from above, but inside they create an entertaining maze of interconnected rooms.

Castle visits are often expensive, so I would mainly recommend Deal Castle to English Heritage members. Membership can pay for itself quickly, even during a relatively short stay in England. Check current prices on the English Heritage website.

St Margaret’s Bay, just before Dover

We continued south towards Dover and, a few miles before arriving, stopped at St Margaret’s Bay for a lovely walk. We enjoyed the peaceful setting, and the White Cliffs of Dover already begin here.

Dover: we loved visiting the castle and tunnels ❤

I have lost count of how many times we have passed through Dover after arriving from France. Yet we had never explored the town, even though its castle had often been recommended to us. It is a fascinating visit. First, there is the medieval castle and its richly recreated, furnished interiors. The Great Tower was built by Henry II, the king who famously quarrelled with Archbishop Thomas Becket – exactly what Titpuce was studying in history!

Beneath the castle are tunnels used as military headquarters during the Second World War. The Secret Wartime Tunnels and Underground Hospital visits reveal key moments from the period, along with stories about the conditions in which personnel worked. Availability can change and sections sometimes close for maintenance, so check the current programme before visiting. Dover Castle is part of English Heritage; membership is useful, but even without it I think the castle justifies the admission price. We spent a good three hours there.

After visiting the castle, we restored our energy in town with a light Mediterranean lunch at Café Mélange. We then walked along the famous White Cliffs of Dover. The route is signposted and you can adapt the distance to your group’s energy. It was delightful, if a little frustrating to watch all those ferries leaving for France :-).

The Kent Downs

After Dover, we began closing the loop by heading inland through the Kent Downs, a hilly area south of Canterbury. It is quintessential English countryside for a restorative walk. We chose a route around the Wye Nature Reserve. The weather was less settled than on previous days, but the walk was still refreshing.

Aylesford

Heading towards north-west Kent, we stopped in the pretty little town of Aylesford and had a picnic after walking in the grounds of the priory, The Friars, Aylesford.

The final stop of our road trip was technically just outside Kent, towards London, but it was such a highlight that I have to include it: Charles Darwin’s home, Down House ❤ . It was extremely informative and Titpuce, who loves natural sciences, thoroughly enjoyed it. The furnished house explains the life of the famous English naturalist and the development of his theory of evolution. In the garden, you learn about his scientific experiments observing plants and small animals. We used an excellent audio guide, with a special version for children and a choice of languages. This is another English Heritage property. See the latest information about Charles Darwin’s Down House.

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We finally took the time to discover Kent and particularly enjoyed Canterbury, Dover and Sandwich, the exhibition at Turner Contemporary in Margate, and the fascinating visit to Charles Darwin’s home on the edge of the county. The cultural side of the trip appealed to us most. We were less impressed by the beaches and seaside resorts, although the busy season undoubtedly influenced that impression.

If you have time, I also recommend extending your route towards the south-west, including Hastings, associated with the famous battle, the pretty town of Rye and romantic Scotney Castle.

Kent by campervan

So, is travelling around Kent by campervan easy? You often ask me this about England in general. As I have said before, I find vanlife in England more complicated than in France. There are few places where overnight stays are expressly permitted. We combined the following solutions, but always check current signs and restrictions and obtain the landowner’s permission where required:

Paying a small fee to stay on private land, with the owner’s agreement. Around £10 was typical during our trip, though prices vary. Toilets are often provided, and our Sandwich site even had showers. We found these small sites from roadside signs, by spotting other vans or through Park4Night. Contact the owner before arriving and avoid turning up too late.

During our trip, we spent one night in a very discreet woodland location in the Kent Downs, arriving late and leaving early. This was our personal experience, not a recommendation: wild camping or sleeping in a vehicle generally requires the landowner’s permission, and local parking restrictions and by-laws must be respected.

Sleeping on a friend’s driveway in Canterbury :-). I admit that this tip may not be very useful to you, sorry!
There is also the straightforward option of a campsite, although we did not try it because the previous solutions worked for us.

How does Kent compare with other counties in southern England?

I know, I know, comparisons are not always fair – just as with children :-). Still, many of you love England and wonder which county to choose for a holiday. I know the south best, so I will limit myself to its counties, running east to west: Kent, East and West Sussex, Hampshire, where we live, Dorset, Devon and finally Cornwall at the end of the world.

Kent certainly deserves a visit and has some lovely places. And for those of you travelling from the continent: It is easy to reach from France and gives you a taste of England beyond London. However, if you have more time or can arrive by ferry in the west, I still prefer Dorset, Devon and Cornwall. In my view, their scenery, coves, beaches, wilder landscapes, natural areas and wide-open spaces are a clear step above. Kent will still feel very different and is convenient by car if you cross at Calais – provided you are not afraid to drive on the left! You could even visit for a long weekend. LeShuttle, formerly Eurotunnel, can be a cost-effective option for families because fares are generally charged per vehicle rather than per passenger, although prices vary. Kent can also be the first stage of a longer east-to-west road trip across southern England.

So, who is planning a trip to Kent?

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Our 10 family visits in the Luberon, Provence

At the end of July, we spent a week in the Luberon as a family, with my parents-in-law, as an extended family trip. As you know, we always try to organise at least one week of holiday with the grandparents, and this time we set our sights on the Luberon, a region we already knew — but how could anyone tire of such a beautiful area? At the end of July, we had ideal conditions, which was lucky because we weren’t there during the heatwave. We had already visited several villages in the Luberon during our long family weekend in Avignon, but there were still many others left to discover. We also returned to places we had already visited because we had particularly loved them and wanted to show them to my parents-in-law, as well as let the children rediscover them, as they had been little during our previous stay. So here is our one-week itinerary in the Luberon:

Our 10 family visits in the Luberon:

For each place we visited, I’m also sharing our favourite addresses!

Roussillon and the Sentier des Ocres ❤ :

We had already visited this village and its famous ochre trail a few years ago, but we really wanted to go back because Ticoeur and Titpuce didn’t remember it (they were too young). To avoid the crowds, we started our visit at 6pm and it was just perfect! I recommend doing the same, as otherwise it gets busy! It is a truly exotic place: you feel as though you are in an American or Australian national park (on a smaller scale, of course!). It is different from the Colorado Provençal, which is located a little further east and which we still don’t know.

We began with a stroll around the village with its very red façades. There are a few art galleries there. Then we bought our tickets for the trail, which we walked in one hour, almost completely alone! There are plenty of opportunities for beautiful photos! Definitely worth seeing!

The Mines de Bruoux (ochre mines) in Gargas:

This is a good complement to the Sentier des Ocres. The Bruoux mines help you understand how the region’s ochre was extracted and used in the 18th century, and even more so in the 19th century during the Industrial Revolution. The guided tour is very interesting. The guide led us through the galleries dug by humans while explaining the history of ochre. Booking is required. See the information on their website.

Fontaine-de-Vaucluse ❤ :

We had already been there, but Omi and Opa didn’t know it, and it is so pretty! So we went back for a lovely out-and-back walk along the water, all the way to the rocky cirque where the underground river emerges. There, in Antiquity and the Middle Ages, people came to make offerings, but not much is known about the rites and beliefs linked to this spring. As a result, many legends circulate. In any case, it is beautiful, and the water really has an incredible emerald-green colour! So intense and clear… On the walk back, we had a drink in the shade, by the water, at Restaurant Philip. The ideal spot!

Oppède-le-Vieux ❤ :

A favourite for the whole family, this hilltop village was one we didn’t yet know! It is really well preserved and very peaceful. We walked up to the top of the 13th-century fortress. Wandering around Oppède-le-Vieux feels like travelling back in time. From the car park, we first crossed a park filled with many plants from the region. In short, a charming, preserved village that we recommend visiting!

Ménerbes:

Another hilltop village. Less impressive than Oppède-le-Vieux, but very photogenic as you arrive by car. We stopped there for a drink and a very good slice of apricot tart at Auzet, a café with a view (slow service, but very good homemade savoury and sweet tarts).

Lacoste:

Between Ménerbes and Bonnieux, we passed through the village of Lacoste, where the Marquis de Sade’s château is located. We didn’t visit the château, so I don’t know whether it’s good. I’m not sure it’s a kid-friendly visit. We’ll see next time! If you know it, feel free to tell me about it in the comments.

Bonnieux:

Beautiful old stone houses and very narrow, steep little streets. We admired a gorgeous sunset from the terrace of the restaurant La Flambée… A very good address, welcoming and well located! We had pizzas there.

The Cedar Forest:

The cedar forest is located in the Petit Luberon, not far from Bonnieux. There are several marked trails on site. We chose the 3km botanical trail. It is very easy and ideal for families, whether with children or grandparents. There were forest rangers there to inform us about fire risks. They were there for prevention. We weren’t there on a high-risk day; otherwise access would have been forbidden. It is best to check the potential fire risk online before going: see here.

Sivergues and the lavender fields

This is an isolated village, located at the end of a road that goes no further than the village. It is a kind of Luberon cul-de-sac :-). We discovered it by chance because we spent the night not far away in our campervan. Right next to it, we saw beautiful lavender fields! The lavender was still in bloom (at the end of July), but the colour had already faded a little. It must be better at the beginning of summer. That said, it is already very beautiful and smells wonderful! There are of course other places with lavender fields in the Luberon (around the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, for example), so don’t go to the Sivergues area especially if it isn’t on your route.

Gorges de Régalon ❤:

This was a little hike that we really enjoyed and that felt off the beaten track. These gorges offer an interesting landscape, with narrow passages. You find yourself almost wedged between huge rocks. There is even a bit of climbing to do, so don’t go with a pushchair or with very young children. For Ticoeur and Titpuce, it was just the right dose of adventure! We walked for an hour, then turned back (so two hours in total). The trail continues much further, but along the rest of the route there is no longer any gorge scenery. So we limited our hike to the most beautiful part of the trail. What’s more, the advantage of walking through the gorges is that you are in the shade! A big plus in summer!

Other villages in the Luberon:

During our previous stays in the Luberon, we had also visited Gordes and Lourmarin. Both are very beautiful villages, but also more touristy. In any case, we have only explored the western half of the Luberon, so we still have the east to discover next time! Feel free to share your favourite spots in the Luberon in the comments.

Our accommodation for visiting the Luberon as a family:

Our accommodation, Le Mas Ferrand, was located at the gateway to the Luberon, in the Alpilles, in the village of Graveson. We were there during St Eloi. So the village centre was very lively in the evenings, with parades in traditional costumes, horse races and evening concerts. A great atmosphere! At Le Mas Ferrand, we had booked two adjoining guest rooms. It was perfect for a stay with the grandparents: they had one room; we had the other, and we could meet up on the terrace and in the garden. The hosts were lovely, very welcoming, and gave us lots of itinerary advice. The breakfast was delicious. A rather comfortable, high-end address, for a treat. We spent half the week there. For our other nights in the Luberon, we slept in our VW campervan (the four of us, I should add! Omi and Opa were staying with friends).

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And you? Do you know the Luberon? What’s your favourite village?

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The 7 best family walks around Saint-Malo

Are you looking for ideas for easy walks around Saint-Malo with children? Between Cancale, Dinard, Cap Fréhel and Dinan, the area offers magnificent coastal paths suitable for families. Here are our 7 favourite walks, tried and tested with our children during four days on Brittany’s Emerald Coast. Starting from Saint-Malo, we explored the coast in beautiful sunshine! The famous customs officers’ path, the GR34, introduced us to stunning landscapes and beaches. The Emerald Coast takes its name from the colour of the sea along this section of the Breton coastline—and emerald really is the colour of the day! We walked:

from Saint-Malo to Cap Fréhel (the western part of the Emerald Coast), plus Cap d’Erquy
from Saint-Malo to Cancale (the eastern part of the Emerald Coast)

Come along with us on these 7 family walks along the Emerald Coast!

Saint-Malo

Day 1, morning

We arrived in Saint-Malo by boat from England in glorious mid-July sunshine. We know the “Corsair City” very well, having visited several times before. This time, we chose a walk combining a circuit of the ramparts with the walk to Grand Bé. In Saint-Malo, you immediately understand why the Emerald Coast is so aptly named:

Pale beach and rocky islet off Saint-Malo — Fort National, Saint-Malo

The ramparts and Grand Bé in Saint-Malo: walk 1

The ramparts circuit is approximately 2 km, plus around 1 km for the loop to Grand Bé (about 1 hour 20 minutes in total)

Starting from Porte Saint-Thomas, we walked anticlockwise along the ramparts. At the beginning of the walk, there are views of Fort National:

We then continued along the ramparts, with sea views all the way to Porte de Dinan.

To complete the full circuit of the ramparts, you can continue towards Porte Saint-Vincent. Instead, we chose to cross the old town:

We reached Bon-Secours beach at low tide so that we could walk across to Grand Bé. Chateaubriand’s tomb stands at the northern tip of the island—not a bad spot!

In front of Chateaubriand’s tomb on Grand Bé

View of Petit Bé from Grand Bé:

Our favourite places in Saint-Malo

Le Tournesol crêperie: we had lunch here and it was excellent!

La Java café, also known as Café du coin d’en bas de la rue du bout de la ville d’en face du port: a lovely place for an evening drink in Saint-Malo. The children liked the swings and the décor!

Where to stay in Saint-Malo

Bed and breakfast: Malouinière Guillaume Onfroy has beautiful rooms for two or four people. The décor is superb and the architecture is typical of the area! Breakfast is included.
Camping: we enjoyed our night at La Ferme La Vignette campsite in Saint-Coulomb, between Saint-Malo and Cancale.

Around Dinard

Day 1, afternoon

Between Saint-Lunaire and Dinard: walk 2

5 km return (2 hours), from Fosse aux Vaults beach to the Roche Pelée cove—park at Fosse aux Vaults beach

We followed the customs officers’ path (GR34) west of Dinard, starting from Fosse aux Vaults beach and passing Fourberie beach and Port-Blanc beach before reaching the Roche Pelée cove, where we turned back.

Family seen from behind on a wooded path near Dinard — The children on the GR34

Family seated from behind overlooking the Emerald Coast — A break on the GR34

After walking back, we went for a swim at Fosse aux Vaults: a fantastic spot and a beach we recommend! I should point out that the water was only 18°C, but as we live in England, that suits us just fine!

We ran out of time, but we also recommend stopping in the lovely seaside town of Dinard.

Our favourite places in Lancieux

La Cabane Kalypso: delicious seafood, which we enjoyed on the terrace overlooking the sea, on Lancieux beach. An idyllic setting!

Les Mielles municipal campsite in Lancieux.

The two capes

Day 2

From Cap Fréhel to Fort La Latte: walk 3

5 km (1 hour 15 minutes) each way, so 10 km (2 hours 30 minutes) return—paid parking at Cap Fréhel

We started at Cap Fréhel. I love places like this! It feels like the end of the world. Cap Fréhel is fringed by pink sandstone cliffs. We then followed the GR34 to Fort La Latte. The views are superb all the way! It really is an unmissable walk.

Here is Fort La Latte and its medieval castle, Château de la Roche Goyon. Its pink sandstone exterior is full of charm. We did not visit the inside, but it is open to visitors; check its official website for current opening dates and times.

Cap d’Erquy: walk 4

7.5 km—a 2-hour 30-minute walk around the cape. Park in the centre of Erquy near the beach.

We walked around Cap d’Erquy, starting at the beach and then passing the Lacs Bleus. Along the way, there are views of Erquy harbour. The colour of the sea is incredible and every cove looks idyllic! Another favourite! We walked to the tip of the cape before heading to Lourtuais beach, where my Ticoeur and I went swimming. The water was crystal-clear and admittedly a little chilly at 18°C, but it was so beautiful! How could we resist? We completed the loop inland.

According to some definitions, the Emerald Coast ends at Cap Fréhel, although it is sometimes said to continue as far as Erquy—what do the locals think? In any case, both capes form part of the same geographical area, the Grand Site de France Cap d’Erquy–Cap Fréhel. I can tell you that the sea at Erquy was definitely emerald too 🙂

Cap d’Erquy is a 30-minute drive from Cap Fréhel.

Sandy bay beneath the cliffs at Cap d'Erquy — Lacs Bleus

Rocky Cap d'Erquy headland above the sea — The tip of the cape

A tasty stop in Erquy

Ty Papo: fantastic artisan ice cream! We loved the mango and cranberry flavours, but they all looked delicious!

We returned to Saint-Malo for the evening and the night.

Cancale

Day 3

Cancale lies at the eastern end of the Emerald Coast. It is nicknamed “the pearl of the Emerald Coast”, and we can confirm that it is a beautiful place to stop! The bay is superb, Cancale itself is a very pretty fishing village, and its famous oysters are delicious. It is a shame our children do not like them—perhaps one day!

From Cancale to Pointe du Grouin: walk 5

A 2-hour return walk (7 km) from Port Picain beach—rugged path. For a longer version starting in Cancale: approximately 11 km (3 hours)

After eating a few oysters on Port Picain beach, we set off on this magnificent walk towards Pointe du Grouin. The scenery is wild, and once again the walk is perfect for families. We loved it! At the headland, volunteers were there to tell us about the dolphins found in the area. Unfortunately, we did not see any, but it is theoretically possible!

And far, far away, you can see Mont-Saint-Michel! Can you spot it?

Anse du Guesclin: walk 6

2 hours return from Pointe du Nid to Pointe des Grands Nez. You can turn back earlier to shorten the walk.

We walked from Pointe du Nid to Anse du Guesclin and its beautiful fine-sand beach. From there, you can see Île du Guesclin and its fort, which can be reached at low tide.

Our catamaran outing in Cancale Bay

We continued exploring Cancale Bay with a catamaran outing. We hired a Hobie Cat T1 for the four of us for one hour from Port-Mer beach (Centre Nautique Cancale). Since moving to England, we have often gone sailing and we love it! In England, there are almost exclusively monohull dinghies, so we wanted to try catamaran sailing. It was great fun too—and practical for four people to sit together!

Our favourite places to eat in and around Cancale

L’Atelier de l’Huître: one of the many small restaurants around Cancale harbour. They all look quite similar, but we enjoyed this one!
La Docena: a seaside hut on Port Picain beach, which is beautiful! A fantastic place for oysters—or sausage galettes for the children—before the walk to Pointe du Grouin.

Where to stay in Cancale

Camping: we stayed in our campervan at Pointe du Grouin municipal campsite.
Holiday home: this house in the heart of Cancale has three bedrooms and is only 300 metres from the sea. Weekly rentals are available.

Dinan

Day 4

We left the coast for a while to visit Dinan, a few kilometres inland on the River Rance. It is a beautiful town with distinctive half-timbered buildings.

Where to stay in Dinan

Character accommodation: Hôtel Le D’Avaugour, with a garden and terrace. Its family suite has one double bed and two single beds.

Along the River Rance: walk 7

Approximately 5 km return (around 1 hour)—very easy and completely flat

After our walk around Dinan, we drove for 20 minutes towards Dinard and stopped at La Richardais for a lovely walk along the River Rance. We walked as far as Pointe de Cancaval, passing the mill:

Just nearby, we finished the day with dinner at La Maison restaurant in Pleurtuit: very good, with a bistro style.

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How to get to the Emerald Coast

From Paris, Saint-Malo is 420 km by car (approximately 4 hours).
We travelled by ferry from England on the overnight Portsmouth to Saint-Malo route with Brittany Ferries. We took our campervan with us.
Why not combine a visit to the Emerald Coast with a road trip in England? Discover my 7-day itinerary from Portsmouth.