After visiting Brighton with the family several times, it was high time I wrote a little article about it! Brighton is probably the English seaside resort most visited by tourists. I wouldn’t say it is my favourite, but this coastal city in East Sussex clearly has plenty going for it: a magnificent palace, a seafront location and a slightly bohemian atmosphere. It also has the advantage of being only an hour from London. What can you see in Brighton on a day trip from London? Or what can you see in Brighton in two days? You can explore Brighton’s main sights entirely on foot. Here is a summary of what we saw in Brighton.
As for the photos, you will see a mixture from our different visits to Brighton, so don’t be surprised by the changing seasons and the children’s different ages!
Visiting Brighton: the Royal Pavilion
I’ll start with the place I recommend most highly. It was a real favourite of ours! In my opinion, the Royal Pavilion ❤ is Brighton’s most interesting attraction. It was once the home of the Prince Regent, who later became George IV. The Prince was known for his excesses, but also for his good taste in architecture, interior design and art. He had the Royal Pavilion built to escape the pressures of family life and London. It was a bit like his bachelor pad, only in a super-luxurious version! The exterior was inspired by India, with its lovely domes—it really transports you elsewhere. You can walk all the way around the palace to admire it from every angle, both from the street and from the gardens.
The interiors are absolutely fabulous, so I recommend booking a visit (book on the Royal Pavilion website). The audio guide is very interesting and there is a special children’s tour. Every room has its own character and style, but they are all spectacular. In short, we loved it!
Here are a few photos:
George IV was also very fond of French cuisine and held gargantuan banquets that proved terrible for his waistline! He eventually became unable to walk because of his obesity and used a wheelchair. A tunnel was built so that he could travel discreetly between the palace and the stables without going outside. Incredible, isn’t it? Basement and tunnel tours are available on selected dates. I would love to do one! Today, the former stables form part of the Brighton Dome, the city’s performance venue. Have a look at the programme if you are spending an evening in Brighton.
Visiting Brighton: the seafront
The pier and promenade
Brighton is known for its Palace Pier and its promenade (Brighton Seafront), both typical of Victorian English seaside resorts. The style is very distinctive, so if you have never seen an English seaside resort, this is your chance. As for us, having seen many of them, we think Brighton is much like the others (Portsmouth, Bournemouth and so many more!). I would even say it feels more run-down.
The western stretch of the seafront is lovely, with huts and stalls selling seafood. It has a particularly lively and pleasant atmosphere in fine weather. The beach itself is pebbly, so it is not the best place for swimming on this coast.
Brighton Palace Pier is 525 metres long. As always, it has rides and an amusement arcade that some English families seem to enjoy. I don’t like the whole concept of ugly, noisy arcades at all, and it is not unique to Brighton—you find the same thing in every English seaside resort. In short, I suggest walking along the pier while avoiding the arcade 🙂
You will also notice the remains of another pier beside Palace Pier. The West Pier, which also dated from the 19th century, was devastated by two fires in 2003. Only the skeleton of the structure remains, creating some wonderful photo opportunities.
The part of the promenade I found really disappointing was Madeira Terrace, east of the pier. This 865-metre covered promenade dates from the 19th century. Its wrought-iron structure, with 151 arches, must once have been very charming. We saw it in a sorry state! But there is good news: renovation work has been under way since late 2024, with the first phase focusing on restoring 28 arches.
Further east still is the Undercliff Walk, where you can walk along the shore at the foot of the cliffs. It is worth considering if you have time, but it is not essential. For truly beautiful cliffs, see my excursion suggestion to the Seven Sisters below.
There are two other attractions on the seafront:
- Sea Lanes Brighton: this 50-metre outdoor pool opened in 2023. The water is heated to at least 19°C all year round (perfect for the English!). It is on the seafront on Madeira Drive.
- SEA LIFE aquarium: Ticoeur went there with classmates and does not recommend it. He even thinks it is the least attractive aquarium he has visited! It is dated and small, and I can therefore tell you that it is expensive for what it offers. So even if you are in Brighton with children, we do not recommend this visit.
Visiting Brighton: the Lanes
The Lanes in the southern part of the city ❤
These narrow streets lie between the seafront and the city centre. They are Brighton’s most charming streets, a real maze of passageways whose history dates back to the 16th century. You will find plenty of pubs, shops and restaurants, and the atmosphere is very pleasant. Try Black Lion Lane, Ship Street, Brighton Place and Quadrophenia Alley, for example. This is my favourite set of lanes: their narrowness takes us back to the Middle Ages.
North Laine
A little further north is another cluster of lanes in the lively, more unconventional area known as North Laine. Walk along Bond Street, Sydney Street and Kensington Gardens, for example. Here you will come across small colourful houses and many independent shops selling second-hand clothes, antiques and other curiosities. It is a great place to discover Brighton’s bohemian, alternative spirit. Some shops resemble huge flea markets, with room after room to explore—North Laine Bazaar and Snoopers Paradise, for example. Music lovers will find a large selection of vinyl records at Resident Music.
Visiting Brighton: street art
In North Laine, alongside the second-hand shops and small antiques dealers, you will find plenty of street art, extending as far as St Mary Magdalen Catholic Church. We always enjoy coming across artworks at random while walking through a city. It offers a different perspective on art and keeps the children interested. I did not think Brighton’s street art was on the same level as Bristol and its street art, but it is worth seeing to immerse yourself in the spirit of the city! Also walk along Trafalgar Lane and Kensington Street, nicknamed “Graffiti Alley”. Brighton’s best-known piece of street art is probably on the wall of the Prince Albert pub near the station. If you look closely at my photo, you can even see a replica of Banksy’s famous “Kissing Coppers” on the small white door on the right:
And here are a few assorted photos:
During this street-art walk, we went inside the rather imposing St Mary Magdalen Church:
Other areas of Brighton
Blaker Street:
A beautiful row of colourful houses:
Kemptown:
This area is on the seafront, east of the pier. It has many cafés and restaurants and includes Brighton’s LGBTQ+ quarter, which is particularly lively in the evening. Kemptown also has quiet residential streets where you can admire Brighton’s 19th-century Regency architecture, dating from the Regency of the future George IV. You will also find many B&Bs here. For a spot of shopping, step inside the pink Brighton Flea Market on Upper St James’s Street. As its name suggests, it is a flea-market-style space.
Next time, we will try to explore Hove, the more upmarket area just west of Brighton, where we can admire even more cream-coloured Regency buildings. Brighton and Hove have formed one city since 2000, although each retains its own identity.
Around Brighton: the Seven Sisters
If you have a car, this is the excursion not to miss in the Brighton area of East Sussex.
The Seven Sisters cliffs ❤ are about an hour’s drive from Brighton. They are a natural wonder and a highlight of England’s south coast! We have beautiful white cliffs in France too, but these are particularly majestic and unmistakably English: intensely green scenery, sheep everywhere, pretty villages nearby and, of course, a few pubs in which to relax after a long walk along the coastal path. We recommend walking from Birling Gap, where there is a pay-and-display car park, towards Beachy Head for superb views. If you only have around two hours, the shorter walk from Birling Gap to Belle Tout lighthouse is a good option; allow considerably longer to continue all the way to Beachy Head and return.
Brighton: one day or two?
One day in Brighton:
Yes, you can make a day trip by train from London (allow around one hour from Victoria Station). Once there, you will have time to:
- Visit the Royal Pavilion in the morning (allow two hours).
- Then take a walk along the seafront and have lunch—in midsummer, if it is warm, why not try the lido?
- Spend the afternoon wandering through the Lanes and the vintage-shopping area before taking the train back to London.
Two days in Brighton:
In addition to the itinerary above, if you stay for two days in Brighton you can:
- Have dinner in the city, as Brighton has an excellent selection of restaurants.
- Watch the sunset from the beach facing the West Pier structure.
- Experience the atmosphere of the Lanes or Kemptown after dark.
- Head to the Seven Sisters the next day for an unmissable scenic walk!
In any case, I recommend visiting Brighton in fine weather because I find the seafront quiet and rather sad in winter.
Brighton: recommended places
Family accommodation in Brighton
- This house for five people is typical of Brighton’s beautiful Victorian houses. It is well located in Kemptown, not far from the pier, and very prettily decorated.
- We tried a budget bed and breakfast in an excellent location in Kemptown. It was simple but practical and very English, with a full English breakfast included. Note that some rooms have shared bathrooms.
Restaurants and other foodie recommendations in Brighton:
- Leman Tea Room: a tiny but very British tearoom, with old floral china and the sort of tablecloths you might find at an English grandmother’s house. We stopped here for a family treat (Kemptown).
- Boho Gelato: if you and the children fancy an ice cream! (Not far from the seafront.)
- Shelter Hall: a food hall right on the seafront. It has a great location and is perfect when everyone in the family wants something different for a simple lunch on the promenade (pizzas, burgers and bao buns).
- Riddle & Finns: an excellent fish restaurant in the Lanes.
- The little shellfish stalls on the seafront.
- Mekan: a Turkish restaurant in Hove in a lovely setting (we did not explore Hove, but went there for dinner).
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To sum up, Brighton is not my favourite provincial city in England and I think it is overrated compared with its reputation. I was disappointed at first because I had expected a jewel of a seaside resort. Fortunately, I loved visiting the Royal Pavilion, the atmosphere of the Lanes and their colourful shops, not to mention the incredible landscapes of the Seven Sisters!
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Who is planning to visit Brighton soon?
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