During the February half-term, we returned to Tuscany. This time, we decided to take the children to Pisa! Our family stop in Pisa turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. We had already passed through Pisa briefly three times many years ago, but had never really taken the time to explore it. Pisa does, after all, have a reputation for being a little disappointing. It is difficult to compete with Florence, and Tuscany is full of charming little towns and villages. I also used to think that, apart from the tower, it did not look particularly interesting. It just goes to show that you can change your mind: we spent a very full day in Pisa and enjoyed its atmosphere, the places we visited and, of course, the food! I had booked the first two nights of our Tuscany itinerary there so that we could really enjoy the city at all hours. It turned out to be an excellent idea, allowing us to see the monuments at night and go out for dinner.
Pisa with the family: what to visit
All the monuments on the Field of Miracles (Campo dei Miracoli)
- The Leaning Tower of Pisa, the famous one! The tower that has a little inclination towards you! I had already seen the Leaning Tower of Pisa several times, but had never climbed it because the tickets are expensive and I was not sure it would be worth it. This time we went up, and it was great fun! Visiting outside the main season clearly helped us enjoy the experience. There were no crowds. Groups enter in timed 15-minute slots, and we were the first people in our group. As a result, we were able to enjoy the top of the tower with nobody else around. As you climb the steps, you can feel that everything is at an angle! I found it even more disorientating when we reached the top of the stairs and it felt as though the landscape, rather than the tower, was leaning.
As for the price, here is our advice: buy the ticket that includes all the monuments and museums in the Campo dei Miracoli. At the time of our visit, the complete ticket was very reasonably priced at €27 per person, whereas a ticket for the tower alone cost €20. Check current prices and book your tickets and timed slot for the Leaning Tower of Pisa on the official OPA Pisa website. Finally, the tower is beautiful and impressive when viewed from below, from all the different viewpoints around the Field of Miracles. Its architecture is extremely elegant and its balance seems completely precarious! Naturally, the obligatory photo poses are part of the experience:
- The Duomo: admission to the Duomo is free, but if you have not bought a ticket for any of the other attractions, you will need to reserve a timed slot to enter the cathedral. If, like us, you have paid tickets, you can enter the Duomo at any time. We particularly liked its façade, while the interior is monumental.
- The Camposanto: our favourite! This monumental cemetery has incredible frescoes dating from the 14th and 15th centuries. We walked around it twice because there are so many pictures to discover. The cloister’s architecture makes it a very pleasant place to explore.
- The Baptistery of San Giovanni: it does not take long to visit and is pleasant to see.
- The Opera del Duomo Museum is interesting, and it also has a café with a beautiful view of the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
- The Sinopie Museum is more suited to enthusiasts, in my opinion: it explains in detail how the Camposanto frescoes are restored.
A walk through Pisa and along the Arno
- Knights’ Square (Piazza dei Cavalieri): a large, beautiful square to walk across. All it needs are a few café terraces 🙂
- The banks of the Arno: it is pleasant to stroll beside the River Arno—the same river that flows through Florence—and the colourful architecture gives the city plenty of charm, even if it is not on Florence’s level. Once again, it is best not to compare.
- Santa Maria della Spina Church: a tiny but pretty church that we saw only from the outside while walking along the Arno.
- Palazzo Blu: you cannot miss this blue palace on the banks of the Arno. It is not the Smurfs’ house :-), but a museum. We were very lucky because there was a superb exhibition during our stay. More about that below.
- Keith Haring’s “Tuttomondo” mural: the famous American artist created this work on the wall of the Servi di Maria convent beside the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate. It conveys a message of peace and harmony throughout the world and was Haring’s only work conceived from the outset as a permanent, non-ephemeral piece.
- Borgo Stretto: we then looped back towards the centre and the old town along this main street. Take a short detour west to pass through Piazza delle Vettovaglie.
An exhibition at Palazzo Blu
As I mentioned above, we were lucky enough to see an excellent exhibition at Palazzo Blu. It featured 200 works by the Japanese artist Hokusai. It was magnificent and very comprehensive. Palazzo Blu regularly presents interesting exhibitions, so have a look at its current programme.
Pisa with the family: where to eat and stay
- Trattoria Sant’Omobono: I loved it! It is wonderfully traditional, with regional recipes and low prices. Booking is essential!
- Il Ristoro della Pe’: a lovely little trattoria recommended by a reader—thank you!
- I Porci Comodi sandwich shop: Papa Voyage and the children liked it, and it is a great option for a quick lunch. It is very focused on cured meats, though, so not really for me.
- Le Parisien Wine Bar: the name may not sound very authentic, but it is actually a very pleasant place, popular with locals at aperitivo time. We drank excellent spritzes on the sunny terrace.
- The restaurants on Via Santa Maria: surprisingly, although this street is very touristy and only a few steps from the Leaning Tower, its restaurants are perfectly respectable. It is a good option for eating at any time when other restaurants may be closed, as they serve food continuously throughout the day. Check the Google ratings and reviews before choosing.
- Accommodation in Pisa: I had booked an apartment a few steps from the Leaning Tower, with an incredible view. It was the Casa Vacanze Bella Vista apartment. It had one double bedroom and another bedroom with two single beds for the children. From the main bedroom, we could see the tower from our bed! The décor was simple, but the apartment was comfortable, exceptionally well located and had an unforgettable view. We recommend it! Remember that we stayed outside the main season. Given the location, it is likely to be more expensive during the tourist season. Here is the view:
Practical advice for visiting Pisa
- On foot: as in many Italian cities, the centre is a pedestrian’s paradise! It is wonderful not to hear cars and to wake up to birdsong in the middle of the city.
- By car: when leaving Pisa, we collected a hire car from Pisa Airport. The airport is so close that Papa Voyage walked there. Otherwise, you can take a bus or taxi. Be very careful not to enter the limited traffic zone, as the fine can be expensive. Park outside this zone instead. Quite a few streets offer free parking on Sundays, including some not far from the Leaning Tower. Check Parkopedia to identify the different options. Once we had collected the car, we set off for Lucca.
- By train: travelling from one Tuscan city to another is very easy! We hired a car because we wanted to enjoy the countryside and visit villages. If you are planning a city break, the train is an excellent option. Trains from Pisa take around one hour to Florence and 30 minutes to Lucca. Check the Trenitalia website for fares and timetables.
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To sum up, I would say that Pisa is a pleasant small city. It simply suffers by comparison with its incredible neighbour, Florence! (Read my article about Florence with the family again.) On a Tuscany itinerary, I recommend devoting a full day to Pisa and spending one night there. We enjoyed its friendly, relaxed atmosphere. Of course, it is wonderfully quiet in February. I would not venture there in summer because of the heat and crowds.
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So, would you like to visit Pisa with your children?
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