Whether you are planning a trip to Sicily with children or teenagers, this 10-day itinerary in 3 stages should appeal to you! On the programme: Mount Etna, Agrigento, Ragusa and their surroundings. I know Sicily very well because it is my dad’s island. In 10 days travelling in Sicily, you have to make choices. For our stay at the end of August, I mainly wanted to limit the number of stops and choose a varied programme that would appeal to the children (Ticoeur, 15, and Titpuce, 13). If this is your first family trip to Sicily, this route gives you a varied overview of the island: volcano, ancient temples, natural beauty, the charm of Baroque towns and a few swims.
The last time we were in Sicily, the children were very little (5 and 7), so for them, this trip was almost like a first time. I therefore wanted to show them a sort of best-of Sicily, admittedly incomplete but nevertheless very representative. They really liked it (especially Etna!). I hope you and your children will too!
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How did we break down the stages for this trip to Sicily? 10 days, 9 nights with 3 nights in each of the 3 chosen areas. It’s a triangular itinerary, arriving in Catania (just south of the Etna):
Sicily as a family: Mount Etna and its surroundings
Here are our family visits in the Etna area…
Catania, a large city at the foot of Etna:
We were pleasantly surprised by Catania. I thought it would be a chaotic, teeming and noisy city like Palermo (the city where we usually arrive), but not at all! Catania is nothing like Palermo. We found it peaceful thanks to its pedestrian centre.
The Duomo square, with its elephant column, is very pleasant. We went inside the cathedral and Saint Agatha’s Church. In the latter, you can pay to access the dome for a view over the neighbourhood:
We then visited Palazzo Biscari (£10 per adult in 2025 and free for children). I liked the sculptures on the terrace, the impressive ballroom with its niche in the ceiling for the orchestra, and the spiral staircase. The guided tour included in the entry ticket lasts 30 minutes. Our guide spoke French.
We also passed by the Teatro Massimo Bellini, walked along Via Etnea and Via Crociferi with all its churches. Wandering around Catania already gives a lovely overview of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
One morning, we went to the fish market, which is probably the less chic part of the city. Plus, there is the smell! But it is lively and there are several little streets with stalls and fish restaurants where you can eat.
Finally, we visited the Benedictine Monastery of San Nicolò l’Arena. Nowadays, it is no longer a monastery but the university. Most of the indoor and outdoor spaces are therefore freely and publicly accessible. However, it is possible to book a guided tour to access historical areas closed to the public. We would have liked to, but the time slots were full in the afternoon when we visited, so we only explored the free areas and that was already very good, especially the cloisters and the grand staircase.
Good addresses in Catania: the shop Colori da Sicilia, a stone’s throw from the Duomo, for quality handmade souvenirs.
Mount Etna ❤ : a fascinating volcano and… erupting!
I have often been to Etna and I have never opted for paid excursions, nor even for the very expensive cable car. What is free is already superb! It is a real journey to the moon! To do this, we parked near the Sapienza refuge and walked around the Silvestri craters. This is an area authorised for tourists on foot, without a guide. You can therefore walk around there. We chose to go a few hours before sunset for beautiful light. We spent two and a half hours there. Walking on volcanic sand is not easy.
You need trainers and a cardigan, or more depending on the season. There are several old craters and old lava flows to explore between 2,000 and 2,500m altitude. It is not the summit, as Etna rises to 3,400 metres, but it really allows you to soak up the volcanic landscape. Besides, you are not allowed to go higher than 2,900m without an experienced guide (and the limit depends on the volcano’s activity).
Ticoeur and Titpuce loved it! Etna was their favourite part of our trip to Sicily! And then, the cherry on the cake—or rather, lava on the volcano—Etna was active! It was the first time I had seen it erupting. During the day, we could not see anything, but we heard explosions; and at night, we were delighted to witness this spectacle of nature!
Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe. It is therefore closely monitored. Usually, its eruptions are effusive, which is far less dangerous than explosive eruptions (such as those of Vesuvius, for example). Check the Etna guides’ office website for the latest information and recommendations.
A few metres from our second hotel (see accommodation below), there was a large plain offering a superb viewpoint over the volcano. There were only locals there and we were delighted that our hotel gave us this tip! It was impossible to see the lava during the day because it was too far away, but at night, the glow made the invisible visible! It was magical!
Here is the same place by day: you can clearly see the summit but you cannot see the lava. It is a beautiful place in itself. We did a little one-hour hike there (to the sound of explosions! They sounded like thunderclaps). There is a marked trail. This place is called Piano Vetore.
The Alcantara Gorges ❤
A place I really like and where I used to go with my father when I was Titpuce’s age. It is very beautiful, but be careful: it is very well known, so it is essential to arrive very early to enjoy it. We were there for 10am and it was very reasonable. You should also avoid the very high season between late July and mid-August. These gorges allow you to observe beautiful volcanic formations. The water is very cold, but not unbearable, so I strongly advise you to walk in the gorge to enjoy the scenery (with water shoes because the small stones at the bottom of the river hurt your feet).
Be careful to choose the municipal car park (€3 for half a day) and the municipal entrance (€2 per person to use the official staircase leading down to the gorge). There are also private car parks and private staircases at much higher prices!
Where to stay near Etna?
We chose to sleep in two different places, for the pleasure of varying things (but you don’t have to!). So I have two addresses to share with you!
B&B Blanc Etna: a lovely address on the outskirts of Nicolosi, with a pool and a view of Etna in the distance. We had a family room. In the garden, they had set up a telescope, which allowed us to see Etna’s lava flow at night. It was magical despite the distance.
Here is a photo, without the telescope, from the garden: it’s already not bad! Obviously, there isn’t a volcanic eruption every day! We recommend this address in any case for the comfort, the pool and the location. You could spend 2 to 3 nights there to explore the region. For dinner, we liked Osteria Garibaldi in Nicolosi: traditional cuisine in a mountain setting.
Much higher up on Etna, we stayed at Hotel Villa Dorata: it is a hotel from another era, a little old-fashioned but which has kept its charm. And we wanted to try another accommodation, closer to the craters. The staff are lovely, the breakfast buffet is excellent and we had dinner there: it was very good! What’s more, a few metres from the hotel, once night had fallen, we were able to enjoy Etna’s little explosions and lava flows. It was even more impressive than from Nicolosi because we were much closer (see the photos above). I must admit that when I learnt Etna had woken up, I regretted having booked accommodation so high up. In reality, there was no danger, but let’s say that if you are anxious, it is better to sleep in Nicolosi :-).
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Beautiful Taormina ❤
A must-see stop on a trip to Sicily. Taormina has a lot of charm. Its historic centre is very touristy, so expect quite a few people. Nevertheless, at the end of August, arriving at midday, we were almost alone in the ruins of the Greek theatre (€14 per adult when booking on the official website – free for children). We were really able to appreciate the place! We had already visited earlier in August a few years ago and it was hell. Still in Taormina’s medieval part, we walked along Corso Umberto I, passed through the very beautiful Piazza IX Aprile. Don’t miss the gardens (Villa Comunale) with their follies and the view of Etna. Finally, we passed through a very quiet corner: Palazzo dei Duchi di Santo Stefano.
Our good addresses in Taormina: the ice cream shop Don Diego near the Porta Messina and Da Cristina for arancini (stuffed rice balls) or focaccias. As for parking, nothing cheap. We opted for the large covered car park at the entrance to the upper part, at Porta Catania (€11 for 3 hours).
Finally, we took the car again to climb above Taormina, to the village of Castelmola, which offers lovely views of Etna but also of Isola Bella (the little island facing Taormina):
Aci Trezza and its lava islets
Do you see these little lava rocks in the sea? They are called Faraglioni. Legend says that the Cyclops, angry with Ulysses (who pierced his eye!), threw lava at the adventurer from the Odyssey and his companions. In any case, it helps get you into the Etna atmosphere and we enjoyed swimming there because the water is very clear. It was great for snorkelling, with quite a few fish to observe. I should warn you, however, that there are no beaches in Aci Trezza, so you just have to get in by walking over large stones. We recommend water shoes, especially as there are sea urchins.
Acireale, a typical little town
I wouldn’t say it is a must-see, but it is not far from Aci Trezza and we spent one night there, so we walked around. I would say it allows you to soak up a local, non-touristy atmosphere. There are beautiful churches, especially the Basilica di San Sebastiano, and a pleasant shopping street.
Good addresses in Acireale: we recommend the ice cream shop Siculastreet as well as the restaurant Vico proiette, where you can dine in a pretty courtyard. Everything was delicious! As for accommodation, we slept at Raciti Palace, an old restored residence. We had a small flat with a balcony and 2 bedrooms. A good address, even if the rooms are small. Very beautiful shared roof terrace.
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On the way to our second stage (Agrigento, about 2 hrs 30 by road), we stopped in Enna… It is a town on a promontory. We went into the Duomo, which is very beautiful with its wooden ceilings. We also walked around the Castello di Lombardia. For a simple and inexpensive lunch, we ate arancini (yes, again!) at the friendly Café Roma.
From the Enna promenade, you can see the village of Calascibetta. Next time, we will stop there, for a change.
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Sicily as a family: Agrigento and its temples
Here are our family visits in the Agrigento area.
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento ❤
I love this archaeological site! It is my favourite in Sicily and probably my favourite in Europe! You can admire many ancient Greek temples there, remarkably well preserved. I recommend going in the late afternoon and waiting for sunset to also see the temples at night because the lighting is very successful. The site is really well showcased.
We chose to start at the car park near the Temple of Juno. So we first did the route downhill, passing by the Temple of Juno, the Temple of Concordia, the Temple of Heracles and the Temple of Castor and Pollux. Then, after sunset, we retraced our steps to see all the temples again from another angle and with the lighting. In summer, the site closes at 11pm or midnight, so you have time! We stayed about two hours on site. Note that the distances are large, so we appreciated walking in the cool of the day. More information on the official website.
We had bought tickets combining the visit to the temples + the archaeological museum. It is €22 per adult and free for children (up to 18). You can visit the museum on another day. In the museum, you can see reconstructions of the temples, explanations and many objects discovered during the excavations (mainly vases and amphorae).
Walk around Agrigento
Only the old centre of Agrigento is pretty. We walked along Via Atenea. Passing these stairs, I couldn’t resist taking another photo of the children as I did when they were little. For fans of Inspector Montalbano, you also come across a statue of the writer Andrea Camilleri.
The Turkish Steps ❤
Another place I really like, even though it has changed a lot since my childhood! Back then, this place was only known to locals. A few years ago, it started attracting crowds. It was therefore closed. Eventually, the Turkish Steps (Scala dei Turchi) are accessible again, but there is a quota of 35 people. You have to book a time slot several days in advance and pay €5. In the end, this allows you to enjoy it with few people.
Palma di Montechiaro and the palace of The Leopard:
30 minutes from Agrigento is the village of Palma di Montechiaro. Warning: I only recommend this visit for big fans of The Leopard and people who speak Italian. Indeed, it is possible to visit for free the palace that belonged to the family of the writer Tomasi di Lampedusa. The palace is empty, but its caretaker, passionate about the history of The Leopard, loves giving lots of information to the few visitors who pass through. He gave us a complete and interesting tour of the place.
Alternative visit: I recommend the village of Caltabellotta, very photogenic and frozen in time (1 hour from Agrigento).
Where to stay in Agrigento?
The first night, we slept in Agrigento itself, in this flat with a view of the temples and the sea (in the distance!). I warn you, décor-wise, it’s not great! However, it is very clean, inexpensive, well located and our host was very attentive. Then we slept two nights in a villa with a pool. The budget was much higher, but the house no longer seems available. In the same spirit, look for example at La Corte di Afea. Note that one accommodation is enough to explore the Agrigento region. We just wanted to vary the pleasures :-).
Also, we spent 3 nights in Agrigento to enjoy my family, but for the programme I have given you, two nights are enough. In that case, you could add one night in Baroque Sicily.
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On the way to our third and final stage (Ragusa), we stopped in Caltagirone, the town of ceramics. It is, in fact, already a Baroque town. The town is known for its great staircase: 140 steps covered with ceramics. We also did some window shopping because there really are beautiful traditional or very modern ceramics. I recommend having lunch at Pinse: nice and inexpensive.
Another possible stop between Agrigento and Ragusa: the Villa Romana del Casale, known for its superb Roman mosaics.
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Sicily as a family: the beauty of the Baroque towns
Here are our family visits in the south-east. This is Baroque Sicily, because many towns in this region were destroyed by the great earthquake of 1693; they were then rebuilt in the style of the time, which was Baroque.
Ragusa ❤
From an architectural point of view, I think it is the most beautiful of the Sicilian Baroque towns. It is divided into two large parts: Ragusa Ibla, the oldest part, and Ragusa Nuova (not that young either!). Ragusa Ibla is the most beautiful part. Expect there to be people. The little streets are very pleasant, as is the area around the Duomo di San Giorgio and the Ibleo Gardens. At night, the town also has a lot of charm.
Good addresses in Ragusa: we really enjoyed dining on the terrace at Trattoria La Bettola, recommended by our hosts. Right next door, the trattoria That’s a Moro is also very good.
Around Ragusa, we found by chance the Grotta delle Trabacche, which is in fact a 4th-century tomb. It is free, there is nobody there and you have to walk a few minutes to reach the cave from the small car park. Not a must-see, but an interesting vestige of the past!
Modica ❤ and its chocolate!
Modica is a pretty Baroque town where you climb! Quite a few stairs in the town, but that’s not a problem because there is plenty to stock up on energy! Modica is Sicily’s chocolate town. It is not chocolate as we know it: for it to survive the heat, it is chocolate without cocoa butter. It is therefore very solid and a little sandy when you bite into it. You can make up your own mind in all the shops offering tastings, for example at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto or Cioccolato di Modica Sabadi. Also to see: another Duomo di San Giorgio.
Noto
Another beautiful example of a Baroque town, more spacious, more airy, with very beautiful buildings such as the town hall (il Municipio), Palazzo Nicolaci with its very colourful ballroom and Santa Chiara church. I’ll stop there with the Baroque towns, but if it is your first time in Sicily, you could also replace Modica or Noto with a visit to the peninsula of Ortigia in Syracuse.
Cavagrande del Cassibile ❤
A huge favourite! We appreciated being there after the summer rush. At the very end of August and arriving early in the morning, we had this little corner of nature all to ourselves. To reach these superb natural pools at the bottom of a canyon, you have to walk 30 minutes downhill from the north car park. Entry to be paid at the ticket office in the car park: €5 for the whole family. We swam in the two largest pools. The water was cool, around 22 degrees (the sea was 26). There are also smaller ones. A little corner of paradise! The climb back up in 30 degrees was more sporty! We took 45 minutes. Bring water and caps.
Vendicari Reserve and the tonnara eco-museum
We were a little disappointed by the Vendicari Reserve because there were no flamingos and there was too much seaweed in the sea. However, there is an eco-museum of the tonnara (traditional tuna fishing). If you speak Italian, the guide’s explanations are very interesting for understanding this old tradition.
The fishing village of Marzamemi
The village is cute and pleasant. The restaurants seemed too much like tourist traps, though. We just stopped for a drink.
San Lorenzo beach
It is a large beach, too busy for my taste, but by going towards the rocks, it was very quiet, so we took the opportunity to cool off and swim a little. You may have noticed that our trip is not very focused on beaches. You can swim almost everywhere in Sicily, but I don’t think this is the island’s strong point. For paradise beaches, I far prefer Sardinia. The two islands are very close but very different.
Donnafugata Castle and its maze ❤
This castle, which I did not yet know, was a lovely surprise. And yet, part of the story of The Leopard takes place in Donnafugata (again!). We arrived too late for the interior visit, but the garden was well worth it! It is a large French-style garden with a rather difficult maze that managed to really stress Titpuce and me out!
Punta Secca and Inspector Montalbano
In Punta Secca, you will find Inspector Montalbano’s house. I have read the books but I do not know the TV series at all, so the filming locations did not interest me that much, but the village of Punta Secca is pleasant at sunset and we had spotted a restaurant facing the sea for our last evening in Sicily. A very good address: A Musciara Ristorante Pizzeria.
Our favourite accommodation near Ragusa:
Villa Dolce Valle: a very beautiful property in the middle of nature with a lovely shared pool. It is very peaceful and decorated with great taste. We had a flat with two bedrooms and a large beautiful terrace. However, it is in the middle of nowhere in the countryside around Ragusa, so it always adds 15 minutes to every journey because you first have to reach the road (via a track in very good condition). For example, going out for dinner takes more time and you need to take the car to go to Ragusa. It didn’t bother us, but I prefer to warn you.
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On the way to Catania airport, very beautiful views of Etna on a pretty road…
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Sicily as a family: practical information
- Car hire: we hired a car at Catania airport. We took a C3 for an economical budget of €17 per day (prices vary a lot depending on the season). I found that locals were driving much better than a few years ago.
- Cleanliness: I was asked a lot about cleanliness in Sicily. We found the Baroque Sicily area and the area near Etna very clean. In the province of Agrigento, there was a lot of rubbish along the roads and in some villages. However, the archaeological site of Agrigento is super clean.
- Season: I advise against Sicily between 20 July and 20 August because there are really too many people. At the end of August, it was very pleasant. I also like spring, even if the sea is too cold for swimming.
- And the rest of Sicily? There’s so much more to discover – in a future post.
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So? Tempted by these 3 stages for a first discovery of Sicily as a family?
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