The Algarve as a family

We have just returned from the Algarve, this region in southern Portugal where we had already been with the children several years ago in summer. Now, the children have grown up and we wanted to go back in spring mode, for new discoveries or simply to revisit places we had loved. Following these holidays, here is the story of our family visits and walks in the Algarve and some ideas for organising your itinerary. Shall we get started?

Age of the children: 13 for Titpuce and 15 for Ticoeur (last time, they were 18 months and almost 4 years old!)

Travel period: Easter holidays.

The Algarve as a family: our favourite walks and hikes!

The Seven Hanging Valleys coastal walk:

This is a must-do hike to enjoy the famous landscapes of the Algarve. The route is 12 km return. It takes about 3 hours of walking in total, but longer with photo stops and lunch. We parked at the Praia Marinha car park (free). This beach and its rocks are already very beautiful:

We then walked west, passing through Benagil, where there is a famous cave that many people visit by boat, but we didn’t fancy it because it seemed too much like a “tourist machine” to us, and the sea was a little rough; it would not have been much fun! In short, we passed above the cave and saw the beach, but from the coastal path you cannot see the cave. Never mind! The landscape is superb anyway and we were better off on land with our trainers!

The end of the hike is at Vale de Centeanes. Before starting the return journey, we made a little detour to Helders Restaurant Bar, where we shared two simple and effective daily specials. As is often the case, even though return hikes might give the impression of repetition, well, no! It’s another viewpoint and another light! We appreciated the 6 km in the other direction.

Ponta da Piedade coastal walk

This is a walk near Lagos which also offers beautiful typical Algarve landscapes, with more ochre cliffs. Just different shapes! It is a must-see! It takes about 2 hours return. We started at the Praia do Camilo car park (another free car park). The path has changed a lot since our last visit: it is very well laid out, with wooden boardwalks. You can no longer park as close to the point, but that is all for the best because the walk is worth it! Here again, there is a place where you can get on a small boat to see caves, but we did it last time and were disappointed. It is very expensive for what it is. I think, if you have to choose, the excursion around Benagil / Carvoeiro is probably better. The viewpoints from the path are superb and so, once again, we were delighted with our walk.

On the way back, we went past Praia do Camilo and passed by Praia Dona Ana, which is also pretty. Finally, we continued to Lagos, passing by Praia do Pinhao and all the way to Praia dos Estudiantes, but this last section is less pleasant because it is built up. So you could also turn back at Praia Dona Ana and reach Lagos by car. At the same time, it was not much further. The old centre of Lagos is very small, but pleasant and lively. We had a snack there, then a very good ice cream at “Gelicia”.

Praia da Falesia

The huge beach of Praia da Falesia, with its very jagged, glowing red cliffs, was a favourite near Albufeira. We walked along the top of the cliffs in one direction and below, on the beach, in the other. A real end-of-the-world feel, for sure! The beach is very long and there are car parks everywhere. We parked at a point called “punto panoramico sulle dune fossili” on Google Maps. Then we walked east before retracing our steps.

Algar Seco:

At Algar Seco, there is another very well-laid-out wooden boardwalk, so it is very easy. We did this walk from the village of Carvoeiro. As we were staying in this area, we went there three times to enjoy it at different times of day. From the boardwalks, you don’t actually enjoy the coast that much. You really need to take the time to go down the different staircases to walk among the rocks. It is pleasant and shorter than the previous walks.

At the place below, we were intrigued by people queuing. Blame Instagram! In fact, there are like two windows onto the sea and everyone wants their photo there! Honestly, I would never queue for a photo! We went back one evening after sunset and there was nobody there.

Here is the place everyone is after, especially at sunset. Go at another time because what is great is being alone!

Also, we saw other windows onto the sea that are not creating a buzz on Insta:

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Other pretty beaches on the Algarve’s south coast:

Here are some beaches we passed by, not as part of a hike-walk, but to have a look and test the water.

Tres Irmaos: this beach near Portimao is nice. I even hesitated about going for a swim, but the water was 17 degrees. With two degrees more, I would have gone for it!

Praia de Nossa Senhora Da Rocha: a pleasant large beach that was deserted in the morning. To access it, you pass through a tunnel in the cliff.

Rochas Amarellas for sunset: I imagine there must be lots of spots to enjoy the sunset. We liked watching it from this beach. There is a bar on site if you fancy it.

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The coastal villages of the south coast:

Carvoeiro:

As we were staying a few kilometres inland from this village, it was a bit like our HQ. The part of the village near the beach is photogenic. As you move away from the beach, I find the village becomes too built-up. Nevertheless, it is a good base for exploring and we found a great fish restaurant there: O Cantinho, as well as a very nice little bar with very reasonable happy hour prices: Havana Bar. It is also from Carvoeiro that you can start walking along the boardwalks towards Algar Seco.

Ferragudo:

This is the fishing village next to Carvoeiro. It has less charm because it doesn’t have the typical little beach with houses around it. However, there is a very pleasant square with fish restaurants and we really enjoyed having lunch there. We recommend the lunch menu at O Barril. Delicious! Behind the square, you’ll find this street that is really characteristic of the Algarve style (there is no need to come and see this one in particular, as there are identical streets in other villages and even in Faro). Then we took a little digestive walk towards the beach and the small castle further along.

Burgau:

During a day out and about in the western part of the south coast, we stopped in the little village of Burgau, also typical of the regional style. We just had a coffee there with a sea view. It gives you an idea of the coastal villages. After this stop in Burgau, you can continue on to Sagres, the south-western tip of Portugal and therefore one of the ends of Europe. We went there last time.

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The Algarve hinterland: Loulé and Silves

Loulé and its market:

In Loulé, there were far too many people for me on Saturday morning, market day! Otherwise, I liked the interior of the church “Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceiçao”. In fact, there are several examples of this style in the Algarve: Baroque decoration and azulejos. However, we often arrived at the wrong time: religious service in progress or church closed. In Loulé, we were in the right place at the right time:

Silves, on its promontory:

I found that Silves had more charming and quieter little streets. We wandered around there one morning and it was pleasant. For us, it was a stop before leaving for Lisbon (see itinerary below).

Note: last time, we had also visited the village of Monchique, recommended in guidebooks, but we were disappointed.

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East of the Algarve: Tavira and Praia do Barril

Tavira and the east of the Algarve: off to the pretty town of Tavira. Here again, it is small, but different and very pleasant, with lots of low houses, façades with azulejos and an old Roman bridge that divides the old town in two.

After a snack at the bakery, we headed to Praia do Barril beach. It is superb with its white sand, but it was too cold to swim. The walk to reach it is lovely in itself and, on arrival, you can see an anchor cemetery.

These anchors were used in the past, during the tuna fishing era, to hold the nets in place:

Olhao: we had stopped there during our previous stay and had gone to an island just opposite to enjoy this natural area called Ria Formosa. It was our very first stop in the Algarve, so we liked it, but less than the places I have told you about above.

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Faro, capital of the Algarve

Visit to Faro, the capital of the Algarve: its town centre has charm. We devoted a few hours to Faro on the last day, but you can start with Faro depending on your arrival time and where your accommodation is located. There is a large free car park in front of the ramparts. We wandered around the old town. We passed the cathedral several times, but there was always a service, so we could not visit it. There are pretty azulejos on its interior walls. We walked along the ramparts and around the harbour, and passed through the old city gate.

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The west coast of the Algarve: wild and beautiful!

The Algarve’s west coast was the big favourite of our previous trip! We had spent most of our time there because, in high season, it is the way to escape the crowds concentrated on the south coast. In addition, the west coast is cooler, which we appreciated with young children. I’ll let you reread my article on the most beautiful beaches on the west coast of the Algarve. Among these beautiful wild beaches not to be missed, there are, from south to north:

• Praia do Amado
• Praia da Bordeira
• Praia Arrifana
• Praia Amoreira

And after these beautiful beaches, don’t miss the charming village of Odeceixe.

Our accommodation in the Algarve:

• Hotel Capela das Artes: an old oil mill, so the place has a lot of charm, with historic buildings and typical furniture. There is also a pool (too cold in April). There are many rooms, but it is nevertheless very quiet and pleasant. We had two neighbouring double rooms, but they were not adjoining. The owner is very nice.

• Presa de Moura: very different from the previous one, as it is a large complex with small holiday houses that are all identical. No particular charm in terms of the buildings, but it is very functional and you can see the sea in the distance from the terrace and balcony. The children had their own room with two single beds. The complex is not far from the village of Carvoeiro, but away from the bustle (you need a car) and much cheaper than in the village. There is a shared pool (too cold in April).

The Algarve as a family: itinerary ideas depending on the season

On the south coast:

I would say between 4 and 5 days. And here is a suggestion inspired by our 5-day programme on the south coast:

• 1 day for the Seven Hanging Valleys hike + Algar Seco (basically, this is the middle of the south coast)
• 1 day for Carvoeiro, Ferragudo + other beaches (Tres Irmaos, for example) + Algar Seco (this is still the middle of the south coast)
• 1 day for the south-western part near Lagos, with the Ponta da Piedade walk and Burgau + other beaches or a quick trip to Sagres
• 1 day for the south-eastern part near Tavira with Praia do Barril and Praia da Falesia on the way back (or even push on to Cacela Velha, which we didn’t do)
• 1 day for Faro and Silves or Faro and Loulé

On the west coast:

I would say 3 to 4 days, taking your time. I remind you that we explored this coast by campervan, so slowly and peacefully. We stopped at:

• 1 day around Sagres
• 1 day for the beaches between Sagres and Aljezur: Amado and Bordeira
• 1 day for the beaches above Bordeira: Arrifana and Amoreira, up to the village of Odeceixe
• 1 day to begin the return journey (we had stopped again at Praia do Amado for the night).

Which itinerary for which season?

The first time, we went in August, right in the high season. The south coast was saturated, so we didn’t stay there long and focused on the west coast, which was not touristy, before completing our holidays with a few days in Lisbon.

For this second stay in the Algarve, we specifically wanted to go in mid-season to fully enjoy the south coast and its walking possibilities. During the Easter holidays, we had temperatures around 16–20 degrees, with tiny showers from time to time. As for swimming, the sea was too cold (17 degrees, although it can be around 19 degrees at Easter, which would have been enough for me). On the ocean side, the sea was only 15 degrees. Rather than returning to the west coast, we therefore chose once again to combine the Algarve with Lisbon (see below).

What if you want to see both coasts? It depends on the weather, but there must be perfect times to enjoy both coasts 100%. The first half of July, perhaps. In any case, I advise against the south in August. In mid-season, it is perfect for the south and, if you do not yet know the west of the Algarve, then even out of season, I recommend going to see its wild landscape. Choose one or two of the stops from our road trip on the west coast.

Car hire for a road trip in the Algarve:

We hired a car at Faro airport via the comparison site DiscoverCars. This allowed us to find a very good rental at a very good price, with a reliable rental company. As always, we chose one of the cheapest options while making sure to choose a rental company with a good rating, a full-to-full fuel option and free cancellation. As a guide, we had a Kia Picanto with Goldcar for a budget of only €90 for the week. Obviously, the price depends on the rental period and when you book. The car was in very good condition and everything went really well: smooth check-in and check-out and no hidden costs. We spent about €110 on petrol in a week (including the return trip to Lisbon). Be careful, the motorways are toll roads. However, good news: in the Algarve, we only came across free car parks, whether for beaches, at the start of hikes or in towns and villages.

Finally, during our previous trip to the Algarve, we travelled by campervan, in an old 1970s camper. At the time, it was not fashionable at all, so it was economical and we were peaceful everywhere. I am not sure it is still an interesting option. Also be careful of the high fuel consumption of old models.

The Algarve or Andalusia?

This is a question that came up often. Many of you seem to hesitate between a trip to the Algarve in Portugal and a trip to Andalusia in Spain. Or perhaps you know one of these two regions and are wondering whether it is worth discovering the second. I will simply give you my opinion here by way of conclusion. The two regions are geographically very close, but they are really very, very different! To put it simply, I would say the Algarve is more of a nature destination. I love the Algarve for its coastal path in the south, its varied cliffs and its beautiful wild beaches in the west. It is a destination where you can hike or swim, depending on the season. You really go there for the seaside and coastal landscapes. Andalusia, for me, is an incredible region for the cultural richness of its towns and pretty villages. On the nature side, in Andalusia, I loved the deserts and the mountains. However, the coast is nothing special. Visiting both regions is therefore complementary. And if, like me, you like there to be cultural visits and you like cities, you can also, as we did, combine a trip to the Algarve with a city trip to Lisbon!

The Algarve and Lisbon

Lisbon is about 2 hrs 30 from Faro. This time we did it by car. Last time, we did the journey by train and it was perfect too. For us, combining the Algarve and Lisbon offers the right mix between a nature stay and cultural visits. Read my new article on Lisbon with our teenagers. I would recommend staying at least 2 nights in Lisbon. By staying 3 or 4 nights, you can do an excursion to Sintra: we loved its palaces!

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So? Who is tempted by the Algarve? The south coast? The west coast? A combination with Lisbon? Everything?

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