A one-week family road trip in Kent

For once, there were only three of us on this trip to Kent. Titpuce got to be an only child for our week travelling around Kent in a campervan. Her big brother was at a theatre camp in… Kent! That was pure coincidence, honestly! I may be an anxious mum, but I did not go so far as to spend my holiday 100 metres from his camp ;-). We were in a completely different area, at the other end of the county. Really! I had better stop justifying myself before you start to find it suspicious…

Kent had been on our list for a long time. It is the first county in southern England you reach after crossing the Channel from Calais. We pass through whenever we travel between France and England, but we are normally in a hurry and have never taken the time to stop. Simply crossing Kent repeatedly was clearly not an effective way to discover it, so this time we made it our destination, completely independently of any trip to France. Here is our one-week campervan itinerary around Kent.

We first headed to Canterbury in the heart of Kent, then travelled clockwise around the eastern part of the county.

Our Kent itinerary

Canterbury ❤: a charming, historic city on a human scale

Canterbury Cathedral, with its Romanesque and Gothic architecture, is one of England’s oldest and most important Christian buildings and forms part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is especially famous as the place where Archbishop Thomas Becket was murdered. Titpuce had just studied the dispute between Henry II and Becket in history lessons. I love it when sightseeing brings the school curriculum to life! To give you an idea of how much we enjoyed the Canterbury Cathedral: we spent three hours there, including two on a special family tour. Our guide was brilliant, like a completely passionate teacher. There were only two families and time flew by. Adult admission was charged and our family tour was free when we visited, but tours and prices change, so check the current options before going.

Canterbury has beautiful architecture and I loved its bucolic atmosphere. The walk beside the water is delightful. Some visitors take a traditional boat tour with a ‘gondolier’ – something for next time! Here are a few photos of the historic centre:

If you are not touring in a campervan, Canterbury makes an excellent base for spending a few days in Kent. Many places are only a short journey away. It is not as expensive as London, but accommodation is hardly cheap, probably because the city is so popular and charming.

Whitstable and its oysters

Whitstable is barely 20 minutes from Canterbury and offers a welcome breath of sea air. Numerous stalls and restaurants serve local oysters overlooking the water. To be honest, I do not like them as much as the oysters I eat in Brittany, Normandy or along France’s Atlantic coast. Try them and tell me what you think! Seafood platters without oysters are also available. The beach is large and pebbly, like those near where we live.

Margate: a very old seaside resort that feels both faded and modern

Fortunately, a friend had warned me that I would not like Margate’s famous beach. Its golden sand may be attractive, but in summer it is extremely crowded because it is easy to reach by train from London, and there was an unpleasant smell of decomposing seaweed. Since I expected to be disappointed, Margate ultimately delivered some pleasant surprises – though not the beach, obviously! What did we enjoy in Margate? We had an excellent experience at Turner Contemporary, where the temporary exhibition was wonderful. The gallery opened in 2011 and its exterior architecture has attracted plenty of criticism; I also find it rather unsuccessful. Nevertheless, it presents contemporary artists, admission is free, and during our visit there was a magnificent exhibition by Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes. We loved it! Check the current programme and opening days before your visit.

From the outside, the gallery did not look very promising, but I am glad we went in!

In Margate’s small centre, we came across this pretty 16th-century Tudor house. Sadly, it was not open to the public.

We then visited a very curious place: the Shell Grotto. An enormous collection of shells arranged in patterns and covering every wall was discovered beneath a house in Margate. Nobody knows why it was created. A mad artist, perhaps? It is frustrating not to know the story behind this man-made grotto, but Titpuce and Papa Voyage are great shell enthusiasts and drive me mad with their garden collection, so this mysterious and admittedly rather kitsch place had to be visited. Admission is charged and it feels a little expensive for such a small attraction, but shell fans will enjoy it!

Margate is also a meeting place for artists, hipsters and lovers of old objects. It has several enormous antique shops: truly impressive Aladdin’s caves such as RG Scotts Furniture Mart and Paraphernalia, among others.

Shall I show you Margate beach, then? You cannot say I did not warn you! We visited at the worst time of year, so there must be quieter periods. I cannot promise that the smell of seaweed ever disappears, though; check recent local conditions. The white concrete-and-glass gallery can be seen again in the distance.

Leaving Margate and driving east, you will find sandy beaches that are much less crowded. Along the coast are the medieval Reculver Towers and the remains of a Roman fort, worth a short stop. Next come the chalk formations of Botany Bay.

Botany Bay

It is certainly pretty, but do not be misled by the angle of my photograph: it is not as spectacular as Étretat in Normandy or Old Harry Rocks in Dorset, west of our home. The cliffs are not very high either. I still recommend this natural site with its chalk formations and golden-sand beach, but only outside the main season. In mid-August, probably the worst possible time, it was crowded and unfortunately rather dirty. Out of season, it should be perfect for a wild coastal walk.

Sandwich ❤ : a picturesque little town

Friends had recommended this small medieval town to us. It is adorable! You do not need very long because it is small, but its architecture is exactly our style. After walking through the lanes and beside the water, we had a drink near the river before finding an overnight spot just outside town. Sandwich makes a lovely stop in Kent and had several tempting restaurants.

Deal

From Sandwich, we followed the coast south and stopped in Deal. It is not an essential stop, but Titpuce had finished her book and wanted a bookshop to replenish her supplies. Deal is large enough to have plenty of shops. Since we did not want to limit ourselves to shopping and we have English Heritage membership, we visited Deal Castle, a fort built by Henry VIII to defend England against the French and Spanish. Its bastions form the shape of a Tudor rose. You can only see that from above, but inside they create an entertaining maze of interconnected rooms.

Castle visits are often expensive, so I would mainly recommend Deal Castle to English Heritage members. Membership can pay for itself quickly, even during a relatively short stay in England. Check current prices on the English Heritage website.

St Margaret’s Bay, just before Dover

We continued south towards Dover and, a few miles before arriving, stopped at St Margaret’s Bay for a lovely walk. We enjoyed the peaceful setting, and the White Cliffs of Dover already begin here.

Dover: we loved visiting the castle and tunnels ❤

I have lost count of how many times we have passed through Dover after arriving from France. Yet we had never explored the town, even though its castle had often been recommended to us. It is a fascinating visit. First, there is the medieval castle and its richly recreated, furnished interiors. The Great Tower was built by Henry II, the king who famously quarrelled with Archbishop Thomas Becket – exactly what Titpuce was studying in history!

Beneath the castle are tunnels used as military headquarters during the Second World War. The Secret Wartime Tunnels and Underground Hospital visits reveal key moments from the period, along with stories about the conditions in which personnel worked. Availability can change and sections sometimes close for maintenance, so check the current programme before visiting. Dover Castle is part of English Heritage; membership is useful, but even without it I think the castle justifies the admission price. We spent a good three hours there.

After visiting the castle, we restored our energy in town with a light Mediterranean lunch at Café Mélange. We then walked along the famous White Cliffs of Dover. The route is signposted and you can adapt the distance to your group’s energy. It was delightful, if a little frustrating to watch all those ferries leaving for France :-).

The Kent Downs

After Dover, we began closing the loop by heading inland through the Kent Downs, a hilly area south of Canterbury. It is quintessential English countryside for a restorative walk. We chose a route around the Wye Nature Reserve. The weather was less settled than on previous days, but the walk was still refreshing.

Aylesford

Heading towards north-west Kent, we stopped in the pretty little town of Aylesford and had a picnic after walking in the grounds of the priory, The Friars, Aylesford.

The final stop of our road trip was technically just outside Kent, towards London, but it was such a highlight that I have to include it: Charles Darwin’s home, Down House ❤ . It was extremely informative and Titpuce, who loves natural sciences, thoroughly enjoyed it. The furnished house explains the life of the famous English naturalist and the development of his theory of evolution. In the garden, you learn about his scientific experiments observing plants and small animals. We used an excellent audio guide, with a special version for children and a choice of languages. This is another English Heritage property. See the latest information about Charles Darwin’s Down House.

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We finally took the time to discover Kent and particularly enjoyed Canterbury, Dover and Sandwich, the exhibition at Turner Contemporary in Margate, and the fascinating visit to Charles Darwin’s home on the edge of the county. The cultural side of the trip appealed to us most. We were less impressed by the beaches and seaside resorts, although the busy season undoubtedly influenced that impression.

If you have time, I also recommend extending your route towards the south-west, including Hastings, associated with the famous battle, the pretty town of Rye and romantic Scotney Castle.

Kent by campervan

So, is travelling around Kent by campervan easy? You often ask me this about England in general. As I have said before, I find vanlife in England more complicated than in France. There are few places where overnight stays are expressly permitted. We combined the following solutions, but always check current signs and restrictions and obtain the landowner’s permission where required:

• Paying a small fee to stay on private land, with the owner’s agreement. Around £10 was typical during our trip, though prices vary. Toilets are often provided, and our Sandwich site even had showers. We found these small sites from roadside signs, by spotting other vans or through Park4Night. Contact the owner before arriving and avoid turning up too late.

• During our trip, we spent one night in a very discreet woodland location in the Kent Downs, arriving late and leaving early. This was our personal experience, not a recommendation: wild camping or sleeping in a vehicle generally requires the landowner’s permission, and local parking restrictions and by-laws must be respected.

• Sleeping on a friend’s driveway in Canterbury :-). I admit that this tip may not be very useful to you, sorry!
• There is also the straightforward option of a campsite, although we did not try it because the previous solutions worked for us.

How does Kent compare with other counties in southern England?

I know, I know, comparisons are not always fair – just as with children :-). Still, many of you love England and wonder which county to choose for a holiday. I know the south best, so I will limit myself to its counties, running east to west: Kent, East and West Sussex, Hampshire, where we live, Dorset, Devon and finally Cornwall at the end of the world.

Kent certainly deserves a visit and has some lovely places. And for those of you travelling from the continent: It is easy to reach from France and gives you a taste of England beyond London. However, if you have more time or can arrive by ferry in the west, I still prefer Dorset, Devon and Cornwall. In my view, their scenery, coves, beaches, wilder landscapes, natural areas and wide-open spaces are a clear step above. Kent will still feel very different and is convenient by car if you cross at Calais – provided you are not afraid to drive on the left! You could even visit for a long weekend. LeShuttle, formerly Eurotunnel, can be a cost-effective option for families because fares are generally charged per vehicle rather than per passenger, although prices vary. Kent can also be the first stage of a longer east-to-west road trip across southern England.

So, who is planning a trip to Kent?