Falaises dorées et arches marines de l’Algarve

The Algarve as a family

We have just returned from the Algarve, this region in southern Portugal where we had already been with the children several years ago in summer. Now, the children have grown up and we wanted to go back in spring mode, for new discoveries or simply to revisit places we had loved. Following these holidays, here is the story of our family visits and walks in the Algarve and some ideas for organising your itinerary. Shall we get started?

Age of the children: 13 for Titpuce and 15 for Ticoeur (last time, they were 18 months and almost 4 years old!)

Travel period: Easter holidays.

The Algarve as a family: our favourite walks and hikes!

The Seven Hanging Valleys coastal walk:

This is a must-do hike to enjoy the famous landscapes of the Algarve. The route is 12 km return. It takes about 3 hours of walking in total, but longer with photo stops and lunch. We parked at the Praia Marinha car park (free). This beach and its rocks are already very beautiful:

Golden cliffs and sea arches on the Algarve coast

We then walked west, passing through Benagil, where there is a famous cave that many people visit by boat, but we didn’t fancy it because it seemed too much like a “tourist machine” to us, and the sea was a little rough; it would not have been much fun! In short, we passed above the cave and saw the beach, but from the coastal path you cannot see the cave. Never mind! The landscape is superb anyway and we were better off on land with our trainers!

The end of the hike is at Vale de Centeanes. Before starting the return journey, we made a little detour to Helders Restaurant Bar, where we shared two simple and effective daily specials. As is often the case, even though return hikes might give the impression of repetition, well, no! It’s another viewpoint and another light! We appreciated the 6 km in the other direction.

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Arcades du baptistère et façade de la cathédrale de Pise

Our family stay in Pisa

During the February half-term, we returned to Tuscany. This time, we decided to take the children to Pisa! Our family stop in Pisa turned out to be a very pleasant surprise. We had already passed through Pisa briefly three times many years ago, but had never really taken the time to explore it. Pisa does, after all, have a reputation for being a little disappointing. It is difficult to compete with Florence, and Tuscany is full of charming little towns and villages. I also used to think that, apart from the tower, it did not look particularly interesting. It just goes to show that you can change your mind: we spent a very full day in Pisa and enjoyed its atmosphere, the places we visited and, of course, the food! I had booked the first two nights of our Tuscany itinerary there so that we could really enjoy the city at all hours. It turned out to be an excellent idea, allowing us to see the monuments at night and go out for dinner.

Baptistery arcades and Pisa Cathedral façade

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Pisa with the family: what to visit

All the monuments on the Field of Miracles (Campo dei Miracoli)

  • The Leaning Tower of Pisa, the famous one! The tower that has a little inclination towards you! I had already seen the Leaning Tower of Pisa several times, but had never climbed it because the tickets are expensive and I was not sure it would be worth it. This time we went up, and it was great fun! Visiting outside the main season clearly helped us enjoy the experience. There were no crowds. Groups enter in timed 15-minute slots, and we were the first people in our group. As a result, we were able to enjoy the top of the tower with nobody else around. As you climb the steps, you can feel that everything is at an angle! I found it even more disorientating when we reached the top of the stairs and it felt as though the landscape, rather than the tower, was leaning.

Pisa rooftops seen from the Leaning Tower

Pisa Baptistery seen between the tower's columns

As for the price, here is our advice: buy the ticket that includes all the monuments and museums in the Campo dei Miracoli. At the time of our visit, the complete ticket was very reasonably priced at €27 per person, whereas a ticket for the tower alone cost €20. Check current prices and book your tickets and timed slot for the Leaning Tower of Pisa on the official OPA Pisa website. Finally, the tower is beautiful and impressive when viewed from below, from all the different viewpoints around the Field of Miracles. Its architecture is extremely elegant and its balance seems completely precarious! Naturally, the obligatory photo poses are part of the experience:

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Pont des Soupirs enjambant New College Lane à Oxford

Oxford with children: what to see and do

Would you like to explore Oxford with children? This famous English university city is an ideal destination for a day trip or a weekend. There is certainly enough to fill an interesting itinerary for the whole family! We have visited Oxford with the children several times, so I wanted to give you an overview of what you could do there. In general, I am always keen to show that there is more to England than London :-). Oxford is a pleasant, manageable English city with plenty of historical and cultural interest. You can discover all the essentials on foot. I love Oxford for its architecture and its many free museums.
Oxford street with a church spire and historic houses

What to do in Oxford with children

Admire the architecture in central Oxford

The Bridge of Sighs: yes, Venice is not the only city with a Bridge of Sighs! Oxford’s version may not have the charm of the canals, but it is a beautiful structure:

Radcliffe Camera: you will pass this university building with its magnificent classical architecture. It is not easy to get tickets to see the interior, which is accessible only on specific guided tours (see my section about the Old Bodleian Library).

Circular Radcliffe Camera building in Oxford

The Old Bodleian Library

This is the famous historic library of the University of Oxford. The 30-minute guided tour gives you access to Duke Humfrey’s Library and, when it is open, the Divinity School, the University’s historic teaching room. The Divinity School was also used as the hospital wing and the room where the students practised dancing in the Harry Potter films.

Gothic vaulted ceiling of Oxford's Divinity School

You then go upstairs into the library itself. I love the wood panelling! The tour is short, but it is beautiful.

Bookshelves inside the Old Bodleian Library

Please note: children must be aged 11 or over to join a Bodleian Library tour. It is also best to plan ahead, as tours are very popular and tickets are released according to a set schedule, with some held back for sale on the day. Check the official website:
Old Bodleian Library.

We visited just before Christmas, hence the tree in the pretty courtyard.

Bodleian Library courtyard and lit Christmas tree at night

 

The streets of central Oxford: you will walk along Broad Street and Cornmarket Street, among others, and come across many university buildings throughout the city (see below).

Stone university buildings on an Oxford street

Oxford street lined with bicycles and old buildings

Next, it is time to visit some free museums! Oxford has plenty of excellent museums for the whole family.

Oxford University Museum of Natural History

Housed in a remarkable neo-Gothic Victorian building, Oxford’s natural history museum is like a little sibling to its London counterpart. The great central court beneath its glass roof is striking. Young children are especially fascinated by the dinosaur and other animal skeletons. The first time I visited, I was with Ticoeur when he was five, and he loved it. We have since returned as a family, and it is always a visit that everyone enjoys. Admission is free.

Dinosaur skeleton in Oxford's Natural History Museum

The Pitt Rivers Museum

In the same building as the Museum of Natural History, you will find this impressive collection of ethnographic and archaeological objects: masks, clothing, weapons, jewellery and other items from around the world. It is fascinating! A magnificent room is filled with wonders arranged by theme. There is something for everyone, and the displays are incredibly dense. This is another free museum, so make the most of it!

Collections displayed in the Pitt Rivers Museum's main hall

The Ashmolean Museum

It is a little like a smaller, Oxford version of London’s British Museum, and admission is free. Historically, the museum is very important: it opened in 1683 as Britain’s first public museum and the world’s first university museum. It has an excellent collection of art and archaeology arranged by region. Ticoeur recommends the Ancient Greece and Egypt galleries. I particularly enjoyed the Asian galleries. Allow around 1 hour 30 minutes just to see the highlights. These are clearly signposted in the museum, and you can also pick up a list at reception.

Columned entrance of the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford

The History of Science Museum

Just a short walk from the Old Bodleian Library is this small museum devoted to the history of science, also free. It is not my favourite museum, but I enjoyed seeing the blackboard on which Einstein wrote equations during a lecture about the expanding universe. The children liked seeing the object that inspired Lyra’s alethiometer in Philip Pullman’s His Dark Materials books. For anyone unfamiliar with the story, this magical instrument reveals the truth. If your children are fans of the books, that is one more reason to visit Oxford, where part of the story takes place.
Scientific dials and instruments displayed in Oxford

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The University of Oxford

You will encounter university buildings throughout the city: Oxford currently has 36 colleges and three societies that operate much like colleges. Christ Church and Magdalen are among the best known. Here are a few photographs taken outside university buildings. We did not visit the interiors because admission can be quite expensive, and we plan to explore them when the children are older and we attend university open days. They are already very beautiful from the outside!

Stone façade of an Oxford University college
Historic Oxford University buildings beyond a lawn
Oxford college façade framed by trees
Symmetrical Oxford college façade and lawn
Oxford college courtyard seen through an archway

Attend Choral Evensong performed by university choirs

One way to see the inside of the cathedrals or chapels of some colleges free of charge is to attend Choral Evensong and listen to their excellent choirs. Services are often held at 6pm, but check the current calendar for each venue. At Christ Church Cathedral, Evensong normally takes place at 6pm each evening, although the choir performing varies. College choirs generally follow university term dates, while visiting choirs may sing during vacations.

A trip on the River Thames

Yes, the Thames also flows through Oxford! During my first stay in Oxford, I took a cruise with Oxford River Cruises. You pass through a few locks aboard a charming English boat. I loved the bucolic, green and romantic scenery—so British! The peace and quiet of nature… A dream! It is also fun for children.

Narrowboat travelling along the Thames near Oxford

Alice in Wonderland and Oxford

Oxford is where Lewis Carroll created Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. He lived here and drew inspiration from real people: Alice was the daughter of the dean of Christ Church. Every year, an Alice’s Day festival is held in Oxford in early July. Ticoeur and I took part in 2015 to celebrate the book’s 150th anniversary. Each year, Alice’s Day features parades and plenty of people dressed as Alice!

If you are not visiting for Alice’s Day—which is by no means essential—you can still visit a little shop dedicated to Alice and buy a few souvenirs: Alice’s Shop, 83 St Aldate’s, Oxford.

Red Alice's Shop sign in Oxford
Alice in Wonderland-themed cups and crockery

Oxford with children: our favourite places

Here are a few places for lunch or dinner in Oxford with children:

  • Bbuona Pinsa Bar: excellent small pizzas, just like in Italy. Simple, inexpensive and effective!
  • Najar’s Place: just a small street-food stand a short walk from the Ashmolean Museum. Its speciality? Generously filled, inexpensive falafel wraps!
  • Banana Tree: a good restaurant serving Asian specialities in a pleasant setting.
  • The King’s Arms. This pub is just outside Oxford, beside the water. It is more suitable if you have a car and want to experience the atmosphere of a country pub on a beautiful summer’s day. The view over the River Thames is superb. The menu features British pub classics—fish & chips, burgers, grilled chicken and more—as well as a children’s menu. The King’s Arms, Church Road, Sandford-on-Thames, Oxford.

 

Narrowboat moored beside a willow on the Thames

Where to stay in Oxford

I have not yet found a great-value option right in the heart of the city. Staying in central Oxford is often as expensive as London, and there is not much choice! Most of the time, we have visited Oxford just for the day and have not stayed overnight. If you are travelling by car, it is easier: just a few kilometres outside the city, you can find better accommodation options, such as this typically English pub 8 km from Oxford: The Coach and Horses (book two double rooms, as there are no family rooms).

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For a more upmarket option, we once stayed at the voco Oxford Thames, an IHG Hotel. The rural riverside setting is romantic. I particularly liked the large lounge with exposed beams in the entrance hall. The children enjoyed the courtyard garden and the heated indoor swimming pool. In short, it is a lovely place for a special treat!

Cosy sitting room with sofas and fireplace in Oxford

How to get to Oxford

  • From London, take the train from Paddington station—yes, the one associated with our favourite little bear! Do not forget to show the children the Paddington statues. The journey to Oxford takes around one hour, with the fastest trains taking approximately 52 minutes.
  • By car, it is approximately 3 hours from Dover, 2 hours from London and 1 hour 30 minutes from our home :-). If you are travelling by car, I recommend combining your visit to Oxford with a stay in the Cotswolds.

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Historic Oxford buildings at sunset

So, are you tempted by a family trip to Oxford? Read my article about a day in Cambridge too.

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Big Ben et le palais de Westminster sous un ciel bleu

London with kids: All you need to know

London is the capital we know best after Paris. I have already written around twenty articles on the blog about London with children, sharing our many visits to the city. It was time to bring everything together in a complete guide to help you plan your next family trip to London. We love London! Papa Voyage studied at university here, and afterwards we visited several times a year for a long weekend or a week’s holiday. We also have family in London, which helped us discover a different side of the city rather than limiting ourselves to its most touristy sights. And, of course, since moving to England, just an hour and a half from London, we have been able to visit even more often, for a weekend or simply for the day.

Whether this is your first visit to London or your umpteenth, this guide is for you! I have tried to keep it concise, linking to my other articles whenever you might want more detail. Here you will find London’s essential sights, our favourite places and ideas away from the usual tourist trail. I also share all the practical information you need for visiting London as a family: booking advice, transport tips, restaurants, accommodation and day trips from London.

Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster beneath a blue sky

Ready for a big family tour of London?

All our personal favourites are marked with a little heart.

London with children: our best routes and viewpoints

Ten walks around London

Over the course of our many stays in London, we have devised a collection of walks and refined them over time. We love doing them again whenever relatives and friends come to visit us in England. There are walks through central London, along the Thames or the canals, and through the capital’s parks: plenty of ways to discover London on foot as a family. The first routes cover London’s essential sights, while the final three take you away from the usual tourist trail.

  • Walk 1: Along the Thames. This walk follows the South Bank. We begin at Tower Bridge and head west via The Queen’s Walk, Shakespeare’s Globe and Tate Modern, continuing to the London Eye. We then cross the river and finish at Big Ben. An east-to-west walk.
  • Walk 2: Central London, taking in Covent Garden, Neal’s Yard, Carnaby Street, Regent Street, Piccadilly, Chinatown, Soho and more. This is our classic central route whenever friends or relatives visit. You can also combine walks 1 and 2: follow the first part of the Thames walk, cross the river near St Paul’s Cathedral and the City, then continue towards the centre for the sights on walk 2.
  • Walk 3: Exploring the City of London, with its skyscrapers and historic buildings.
  • Walk 4: Discovering Notting Hill as a family, including Portobello Road, before finishing at Little Venice and Holland Park. A walk through the north-west of central London.
  • Walk 5: Explore the French quarter of South Kensington and its museums, listed further down in this article, then walk through Hyde Park and perhaps continue to Regent’s Park. A walk through the south-west of central London.
  • Walk 6: Exploring Camden and walking along Regent’s Canal. A walk north of the centre.
  • Walk 7: Explore Shoreditch and its street art. A walk east of the centre.
  • Walk 8: Discover Hampstead and its surroundings, including Freud’s house, Hampstead’s residential streets and enormous park, and Highgate Cemetery.
  • Walk 9: Visit Hackney for an off-the-beaten-track day in north-east London, with a small farm, museums, parks and markets.
  • Walk 10: A very pleasant walk beside the Thames through an untouristy area, between Putney Bridge and Hammersmith Bridge.

London from above

  • Primrose Hill ❤: I love this view! Walk to the top of the hill in Primrose Hill park, sit down and admire the skyline.

View of the London skyline from Primrose Hill

  • The Sky Garden, which is FREE with a booking: I really enjoyed its greenery and the views from the 38th floor, 160 metres above the ground. You need to be organised, however, and book the free tickets several weeks ahead.

Tropical garden beneath the glass roof of London's Sky Garden

  • The Garden at 120, which is FREE: this is right beside the Sky Garden. It is much lower, on the 15th floor, but its advantage is a larger, open-air rooftop garden.

  • The 10th floor of Tate Modern, which is FREE: a beautiful free view looking north across the Thames. There is also a café.

Tate Modern, the Thames and St Paul's Cathedral seen from above

  • The rooftop terrace of the One New Change shopping centre, a short walk from St Paul’s Cathedral, is FREE. Alternatively, visit the galleries of St Paul’s Cathedral, for which admission is included in the paid cathedral visit.

Dome of St Paul's Cathedral and the City of London skyline

  • Horizon 22: a newer place from which to see London at the top of a skyscraper, and it is FREE. Book at 10 am on Monday for the following two weeks. On the 58th floor, 278 metres above the ground, it is London’s highest free viewpoint.

Panoramic view of London and the Thames from Horizon 22

  • The London Eye with children, PAID: it is expensive, so I would consider it only in good weather. It is more affordable with very young children because under-fours travel free.
  • The View from The Shard, PAID. Now that Horizon 22 exists, paying for this view feels less worthwhile, although The Shard remains London’s tallest building at 310 metres.

London with children: the essential attractions

Museums for a family trip to London

All our favourite museums are FREE! Most also stage paid temporary exhibitions, but their free permanent collections already offer more than enough to see.

  • The Natural History Museum: an essential stop, although it is extremely busy during school holidays. Visitors often love its dinosaurs, but this is actually my least favourite section because there is too little space and distance from which to appreciate the skeletons. Paris is better for dinosaurs! At the Natural History Museum, I love the magnificent main hall and its whale skeleton. At the very least, go inside to see this room. I also like the minerals, birds and fossils. The museum shop is excellent for attractive gifts.

Façade of London's Natural History Museum behind the trees

  • Victoria & Albert Museum ❤: probably my favourite London museum. It stands opposite the Natural History Museum and has a wonderfully varied collection devoted to design and decorative arts. I particularly recommend the jewellery gallery, which is outstanding, as well as the Roman collection, mosaics and theatre section. The architecture is superb, and you should not miss the courtyard. The tearoom is very British too! If you are short of time, simply see the jewellery gallery and admire the courtyard. Since May 2025, visitors have also been able to explore V&A East Storehouse, the V&A’s storage facility in east London, if you are interested in how museum collections are stored. A new museum devoted to contemporary design, V&A East, opened in April 2026.

Stained-glass tea room at the Victoria and Albert Museum
The tearoom at the Victoria & Albert Museum
  • The Science Museum: next door to the Natural History Museum and very interesting. We particularly like the sections on medicine, steam engines and clocks.
  • The British Museum: another essential but very busy museum. The Egyptian collection and Rosetta Stone are highlights, and we also love the Japanese galleries.

Geometric glass roof of the British Museum's Great Court

  • Sir John Soane’s Museum ❤: a magnificent townhouse containing an unusual private collection. Do not miss it!
  • The London Museum: London’s history museum is genuinely designed for children, taking you through changing settings as you travel through time. It is currently being renovated and is due to reopen on 28 November 2026 in a new building at the heart of Smithfield Market. In the meantime, part of the collection can be seen in Docklands.
  • Tate Modern: this former power station is ideal if you enjoy modern art. At the very least, enter the Turbine Hall, where there is often a monumental installation, then head to the 10th floor for the view mentioned above.
  • Tate Britain: home to the more classical side of the Tate collection. It is often peaceful despite containing many famous works. Its manageable size offers a fascinating overview of art, and it has the largest permanent collection of Turner paintings.
  • The National Gallery: a classic museum on Trafalgar Square, also displaying famous paintings by Turner.
  • The National Portrait Gallery ❤: I love this collection of portraits spanning the centuries. It is next to the National Gallery but less crowded, and our children enjoyed it.
  • Young V&A: a museum for young children in north-east London. We visited when ours were under five. It has toy collections and is very popular with London families at weekends, so it can be noisy. See walk 9.
  • Barbican Conservatory: a beautiful indoor garden.

Palm trees and tropical plants in the Barbican Conservatory

  • The Wallace Collection: a spacious and pleasant museum in central London, displaying porcelain, arms and armour, and much more. Its lovely architecture offers a chance to escape the crowds and see a beautiful English interior.

Ornate red gallery at the Wallace Collection in London

There are also expensive, paid museums that tourists enjoy, but honestly, the free museums above already offer plenty to do, so I do not particularly recommend spending more. If you are interested, however, London Transport Museum is popular with families of young children. The Postal Museum is unusual and offers rides on a small underground train on certain days. Madame Tussauds is very famous, but I am not a fan and it is extremely expensive. I also visited the London Dungeon a few years ago and was not impressed. Nor do I recommend the SEA LIFE aquarium, which is small and very expensive.

London landmarks to show children

  • Big Ben: this symbol of London is so beautiful! Admire it from every angle.
  • Westminster Abbey: the best time to go is during a concert, as admission is otherwise expensive. Choirs perform at Christmas, providing free entry and a lovely atmosphere.
  • The Houses of Parliament: the tour is fascinating, although I would recommend it mainly for secondary-school pupils interested in politics, citizenship and history. Beautiful architecture, but an expensive visit.
  • Tower Bridge: visiting the interior and machinery is another considerable expense, but the bridge is magnificent when admired from outside.

Tower Bridge seen from the bank of the Thames

  • The Tower of London: interesting for history enthusiasts, although the crowds and price meant it was not one of our favourites. The Crown Jewels are impressive, but I prefer admiring the jewellery at the Victoria & Albert Museum in peace. Nevertheless, it is historically important.
  • Trafalgar Square: an iconic square not to be missed, with its lions, Nelson’s Column and museums.
  • The royal sights: Buckingham Palace, if you are prepared to face the crowds at 11 am for Changing the Guard, or the shorter and less crowded ceremony at Horse Guards on Whitehall. See walk 2.

Royal guards in red uniforms during the changing of the guard in London

London’s parks

  • Hyde Park & Kensington Gardens: the best-known and most central parks, which you will probably cross. The Diana Memorial Fountain is here, where children enjoy paddling in warm weather. There are also two small free art galleries, the Serpentine Galleries.
  • Regent’s Park: also central, and in my opinion even more charming. Outdoor artworks are displayed here during Frieze London in October.

Red sculpture in Regent's Park among autumn foliage

  • St James’s Park: romantic, with swans and views of Buckingham Palace.
  • Primrose Hill: excellent views over London in good weather, as mentioned above.
  • Holland Park ❤: very charming, especially the Japanese garden.

Pond and waterfall in the Japanese garden at Holland Park

  • Victoria Park: a large family park in southern Hackney.
  • Hampstead Heath: Hampstead’s enormous wild park in north London, where you can even swim.

London beside the water

  • The Thames: see walk 1 for the best way to enjoy it. There are river cruises too, although I did not particularly like them. If you would prefer to walk beside the Thames away from tourists, start at Putney Bridge, follow the riverside path beside Bishops Park to Hammersmith Bridge, and have a beer at The Blue Anchor. This is walk 10.

Shaded riverside path beside the Thames near Putney

  • Little Venice: a small but charming junction of canals, lined with pretty narrowboats.
  • Regent’s Canal: ideal for a long walk away from the tourist trail. See walk 6.
  • The canals around Victoria Park: worth seeing if you are visiting Hackney, but not essential otherwise.
  • Travelling by narrowboat to Oxford: I did this once with Ticoeur. It was very pleasant, but you need plenty of time. Ideal if you are already planning to visit Oxford.

London’s markets

First of all, London’s markets are mainly food markets where you can buy lunch:

  • Borough Market: the most famous, so expect crowds. It is still worth seeing for its urban atmosphere. Walk 1.

Green iron structure of Borough Market in London

  • Maltby Street Market: a less touristy alternative to nearby Borough Market, open only on Saturday and Sunday around lunchtime.
  • Brick Lane Market: somewhere to grab a bite while exploring Shoreditch in east London, open only on Saturday and Sunday around lunchtime. Walk 7.
  • Spitalfields Market: a pleasant, renovated covered market on walk 7.
  • Columbia Road Flower Market ❤: a beautiful flower market along Columbia Road, open on Sundays only in north-east London. Walk 9.
  • Mercato Mayfair: a food hall inside a church. It is attractive but noisy and expensive, so simply take a quick look if you are walking through elegant Mayfair.
Former church converted into Mercato Mayfair in London
Mercato Mayfair
  • Broadway Market: a lovely food market in Hackney, open on Saturday and Sunday. Walk 9.
  • Victoria Park Market: a small market with relatively few stalls in a beautiful park south of Hackney, held on Saturdays and Sundays. The main attraction is enjoying the park as a family, so consider it if your accommodation is nearby. Walk 9.

Family shows

  • Many of London’s musicals are great to see as a family.
  • For cinema, London has its oldest surviving cinema, the Electric Cinema in Notting Hill. If you would like to see French-language films, visit Ciné Lumière in South Kensington.
English drawing-room set on a theatre stage in London
A family trip to the theatre in London

London and the cinema

  • Follow in the footsteps of Harry Potter in London: do not miss the Harry Potter statue in Leicester Square, the entrance to the Palace Theatre where Harry Potter and the Cursed Child is performed, Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross station, the MinaLima shop mentioned in the shopping section below, and beautiful Leadenhall Market in the City.

Harry Potter statue on a broomstick in Leicester Square

Covered arcade of Leadenhall Market decorated with British flags

  • Follow in the footsteps of Paddington at Paddington station, which gave the bear his name. You will find statues of him and a shop.

  • In Notting Hill ❤, film fans will enjoy revisiting locations from Notting Hill and Love Actually, particularly the little street called St Luke’s Mews.

Pink house façade with a bicycle in St Luke's Mews, Notting Hill

  • Other films shot in London to watch or rewatch as a family include Fantastic Beasts, Mary Poppins Returns, the live-action 101 Dalmatians and several James Bond films.
  • Several television series are also set in London. I recommend The Split, about divorce lawyers; for something lighter, Ted Lasso, which humorously follows daily life at Richmond’s football club in suburban London; and, of course, Doctor Who.

Shopping in London with children

  • Liberty ❤: the most beautiful of London’s department stores.

Tudor-style façade of Liberty department store in London

  • Fortnum & Mason for tea. I recommend the Wedding Breakfast blend.
  • The Harry Potter Shop at Platform 9¾ in King’s Cross.
  • The new Harry Potter Shop on Oxford Street (since November 4th)

  • House of MinaLima ❤: discover the illustrations created for the Harry Potter films.

Burgundy shopfront of the House of MinaLima in London

  • Harrods: mainly for the Food Halls and exterior architecture. Otherwise, I am not a great fan.
  • Hamleys: I only really like the ground floor, with its soft toys and London souvenirs. The other floors are rather ordinary and mostly contain the usual plastic toys. Unless you are looking for something specific, I would stick to the ground floor.

London off the beaten track

  • The walk along Regent’s Canal ❤: a very peaceful walk that combines well with a visit to Camden. Walk 6.

Narrowboats moored along the tree-lined Regent's Canal

  • Neal’s Yard ❤ in central London: colourful and picturesque. Walk 2.

Colourful façades and shops in Neal's Yard

  • Battersea Power Station: a former power station converted into a shopping centre. It appears on the cover of Pink Floyd’s album Animals.

Battersea Power Station and its four chimneys beside the Thames

  • The Graffiti Tunnel, a short walk from the London Eye:

Street-art murals inside Leake Street Tunnel in London

  • The National Covid Memorial Wall beside the Thames, just beyond the London Eye:

Red hearts painted on London's Covid memorial wall

  • Hackney, described in walk 9.
  • Hampstead Heath and the Freud Museum: an attractive residential neighbourhood with an enormous park for picnics in good weather. Walk 8.

Practical information

Where to stay in London with children

London is an extremely expensive city for accommodation, particularly in the centre. We recommend South Kensington, Notting Hill and Tower Bridge, which we find well suited to a family stay. Wherever you choose, book well in advance for the best prices.

Read my article about choosing family accommodation in London.

Bright sitting room with a blue sofa in a London flat

When to visit London

    • London in spring: I love this season because the parks are full of flowers and the lawns are beautifully green. It is ideal for families because children can enjoy playing outdoors.
    • London in summer: many Londoners are away on holiday, the weather is pleasant and the days are very long. It is therefore an excellent time for both indoor and outdoor visits. Be aware that London can occasionally experience very hot days.
    • London in autumn: it is magnificent and, together with spring, my other favourite season. The parks are particularly beautiful. There is some Halloween atmosphere, although nothing like in the United States.
    • London in winter: the festive season attracts huge numbers of families who come for the Christmas atmosphere. Read my article Christmas in London: 20 family activities. The downside is that this is the most expensive period and the city is crowded. The other disadvantages are the very short days and potentially cold weather. To avoid the crowds and high prices, visit for a weekend just before the Christmas school holidays, as the decorations are in place from mid-November, or during the February half-term holiday, when London is quieter and more affordable.

London through the seasons: tulips, architecture, park and festive lights

London for different ages

  • London with a baby or very young child: we found people in England wonderfully kind and always willing to help with the pushchair on the Underground and stairs. London is a very comfortable city with young children. We enjoyed its parks and many museums, favouring the free museums so that there was no pressure if we left quickly to avoid tiring the children. Some expensive attractions are free for very young children too, making this a good time to ride the London Eye.
  • London with children aged 6–12: London has so much to offer, with museums, visits and attractions for every taste. Ideally, divide each day into two parts: follow one of the essential walks in the morning, then visit a free museum or landmark in the afternoon. Children of this age are also often captivated by the world of Harry Potter.
  • London with teenagers: our children still love London now that they are teenagers. They are interested in different museums and more historical visits, and greatly enjoyed discovering the street art in Shoreditch. They also appreciate the restaurants and West End shows.

Where to eat in London with children

London has an enormous choice of restaurants, and you can eat extremely well. Prices vary enormously too. Here are a few relatively affordable possibilities:

  • At the markets mentioned above.
  • In pubs. Be aware that children are rarely accepted in the evening, except in more residential and family-oriented neighbourhoods farther from the centre. A pub that does not serve food will not admit children. Family-friendly examples include The Barrowboy and Banker near London Bridge, The Mitre beside Hyde Park and The Churchill Arms near Notting Hill, among many others.
  • In cafés for an English breakfast or light lunch. Among the chains, I like Gail’s Bakery.
  • For food on the go, try Prêt à Manger for an affordable and relatively healthy choice.
  • For quick Asian food, try Itsu, the best sushi chain according to Ticoeur and Titpuce, or Marugame Udon for good, inexpensive noodle soups. There is one conveniently located near Trafalgar Square.
  • The Asian restaurants in Chinatown often offer good value, and the neighbourhood is picturesque. One example is the Vietnamese restaurant Viet Food.

Traditional gate and red lanterns in London's Chinatown

  • Indian restaurants: you have to eat Indian food in London! This cuisine has a particularly strong presence because of the importance of Indian culture in Britain. Indian restaurants are often affordable, although there are more upmarket choices such as the famous Dishoom.
  • Fancy an afternoon tea with children? People often ask me to recommend somewhere for afternoon tea. It is certainly an English tradition, but it is often expensive and, for me, includes too much food that is not always to my taste, usually mixing savoury and sweet bites. Sweet food is not really my cup of tea! Nevertheless, places recommended to me include Brigit’s Bakery near Covent Garden, The Wolseley near Piccadilly and all the grand hotels, although those become extremely expensive.
  • Brunch or breakfast? I am often asked where to have brunch in London. Brunch is an American rather than an English tradition. You can certainly find brunch in London, but it is not typical here. Instead, choose the experience of a proper English breakfast. I like the one at the small Café de Provence.

Transport information for London

  • Apps: we use Citymapper or Google Maps to find the best route on foot, by public transport or by car.
  • Underground: you can load credit onto an Oyster card or tap a contactless bank card, provided your bank does not charge excessive foreign-exchange fees. Children under 11 travel free when accompanied by a fare-paying adult. Visitors aged 11–15 can receive 50% off adult pay-as-you-go fares for up to 14 days by asking a member of staff to add the Young Visitor discount to their Oyster or Visitor Oyster card; the child must be present. Free Tube maps are available at every station. There is no need to buy a Day Travelcard: once your individual journeys reach the daily cap, you will not be charged more for subsequent travel that day.
  • Buses: children under 11 travel free. Those aged 11–15 need an appropriate child concession, such as a Young Visitor discount or an 11–15 Zip Oyster photocard, depending on the length and circumstances of their stay.
  • Taxis: they look lovely!
  • Boats on the Thames: you can use an Oyster card. The journey costs more than the Underground but offers a different view of London.
  • Driving in London: yes, you can drive into London if your vehicle meets the emissions requirements. First, register online to check whether your car is permitted within the Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ), which includes attractive areas such as South Kensington, Camden, Chelsea and Fulham. Completing the registration form will help you avoid a fine; I recommend doing this one month before your stay. Once registered, pay attention to the Congestion Charge zone. This covers the very centre, where I advise against driving because a daytime charge applies and it would be impractical anyway. Park within the ULEZ, but outside the Congestion Charge zone.

Map of Greater London's Ultra Low Emission Zone

  • Parking: we use the JustPark website to reserve inexpensive parking spaces offered by private individuals. Street parking is free on Sundays in some areas, which is why we mainly visit London on Sundays from our home in southern England.
  • Car rental : if you want to explore England, touring the countryside or the coast, your best option is to rent a car from London.
  • Arriving by train: the Eurostar arrives at the beautiful St Pancras station. From there, take the Underground after playing the piano for a moment, as Ticoeur did!

londres en famille

  • Arriving by air: London’s airports are far from the centre but well connected, so allow plenty of time. From Heathrow, take the Piccadilly line, which takes about one hour, or the faster but more expensive Heathrow Express to Paddington. From Gatwick, take a train to Victoria, London Bridge or Blackfriars, allowing about 30 minutes. Stansted, used by several low-cost airlines, is farther away, around 50 minutes by train from Liverpool Street. Luton is approximately 40 minutes from St Pancras.

Travelling to London: entry requirements

This section is obviously only for our English readers from outside the UK. For EU countries, since Brexit, you need a passport to enter England. In addition, every member of the family must apply for an ETA a few days before travelling.

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Family day trips from London

The Harry Potter Studios

  • Visit the Harry Potter Studios ❤: all the information is in my article. The two most important points are to book several months ahead and to book through the official website to avoid the exorbitant prices charged by agencies and resellers.

Gardens and palaces

Victorian glasshouse and daffodil beds at Kew Gardens

  • Visit Windsor Castle: the castle is beautiful, and so is the little town.

visiter le chateau de windsor en famille

  • Visit Hampton Court, the palace of the famous Henry VIII, the king with six wives and their tragic fates.
Courtyard and Tudor façade of Hampton Court Palace
Hampton Court

City trips less than two hours from London

  • A day in Cambridge ❤: Cambridge was a real favourite, a peaceful and pleasant university city where you can discover prestigious colleges.

Punt on the river in front of a historic Cambridge college

  • A day in Oxford: I preferred Cambridge, but Oxford is another beautiful university city, and the Cotswold villages are not far away.
  • Discover the New Forest ❤, England’s largest forest, with thousands of free-roaming ponies. I love this forest close to our home. Do come and have tea with me!
  • A day in Brighton: it is not my favourite seaside resort, but I know many people want to visit. Its Royal Pavilion is magnificent, and the city is accessible by train.

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Silhouette of the Palace of Westminster and Big Ben at sunset
Who is visiting London with their family soon? Any other questions?

Also worth reading

Where to stay in London? 7 ideas to chose your neighbourhoodChose your accommodation in London with kids or as a couple: our guide by neighbourhood
Christmas in London: 20 family activitiesPlanning Christmas in London with children? Discover 20 family-friendly ideas, festive lights, shows, attractions and practical…
Itinerary for visiting central London as a familyA long walk to discover central London with kids
Visiting the Harry Potter Studios as a familyAdvice for visiting the Harry Potter Studios near London: official tickets, booking ahead, visit length, train travel and the…
3 days in Florence as a familyA relaxed three-day Florence itinerary with kids: the Duomo, Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti, Boboli Gardens, family-friendly food and…
4 days in Barcelona with our teenagersOur 4 days in Barcelona as a family with our teenagers: itinerary, museum visits and walks neighbourhood by neighbourhood

Reader comment from the French article

Originally written in French, translated here.

Thank you Maman Voyage for all your advice and your beautifully written articles!
We have just come back from a family weekend in London, and I dipped into many of your different articles to put together my itinerary!
You have even made me want to come to your little corner of southern England, perhaps in spring!

Jacquelin, reader comment on the French article

Big Ben à Londres vu au-dessus des arbres

Itinerary for visiting central London as a family

Every time I show London to friends or family members who come to visit us in England, I clearly have a favourite itinerary that allows you to see the essentials in central London. This route is a perfect introduction for a first family visit to London, or a great refresher if you already know the English capital well. This walk through central London will keep you busy for a full day at a fairly intense pace. You can also spread it over two days for a more relaxed rhythm, especially if you have young children or children who are not keen walkers. I have done this itinerary several times as a family. It includes stops at places that interest children. Among the stages of this route, there are the great classics as well as some off-the-beaten-track spots. I also share some places to eat. In short, I hope this will help you make the most of central London!

Family itinerary in central London

Big Ben

I like to start at Big Ben, at Westminster underground station (on the District Line, my favourite line). Because Big Ben is the symbol of London, and because it is looking brand new after its restoration. If I plan it well, I aim to arrive just before the clock strikes. I love the sound of Big Ben! Once you are here, you can of course take the opportunity to visit Westminster Abbey or Parliament. Both visits are interesting but expensive. My philosophy for a stay in London is to do only one paid visit as a family and instead focus on all the free places and, above all, on walks that let you really feel the pulse of the British capital. On the other side of the Thames, you will spot the giant wheel of the London Eye.

Big Ben in London seen above the trees

The Changing of the Guard at Whitehall

From Big Ben, in an 8-minute walk, if you head up Whitehall, you will arrive in front of the Royal Horse Guards.

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Façades colorées et bateaux dans le port de Nyhavn à Copenhague

5 days in Copenhagen as a family

This summer, we went back to Copenhagen as a family for a sailing competition for Ticoeur. It was our second time in the Danish capital. The first time, we visited Copenhagen when Ticoeur was only 2 years old! Just a baby! This year, we experienced Copenhagen with two older children (aged 12 and 15). Because of their ages, we didn’t quite have the same sightseeing wishes. So this trip was a mix of places we wanted to revisit and new ones we were keen to discover. Here’s a roundup of our family visits to Copenhagen, 2024 edition!

Copenhagen with kids: 10 ideas for visits

1 – Nyhavn: we never tire of it! It’s the little harbour everyone recognises from photos. With its colourful houses, it’s extremely photogenic. It was the first place we wanted to take the kids. Ticoeur obviously didn’t remember it. Last time, he was in his pushchair. And for Titpuce, it was her first time. Returning to a city years later gives you quite a sense of how time flies – softened, fortunately, by a lovely nostalgia for us happy parents. The facades haven’t changed; only our children have grown a lot! Last time, we took a one-hour cruise from this harbour. It was perfect and family-friendly. Highly recommended.

Colourful façades and boats in Nyhavn harbour, Copenhagen Red boat moored beside the colourful façades of Nyhavn

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Phare rouge du Cap-Ferret dominant les pins et les toits

The Bassin d’Arcachon : 12 things to do as a family

This summer, we went back as a family to the Bassin d’Arcachon. We absolutely love this area! This wasn’t our first stay on the Bassin, so I felt like sharing a round-up of our favourite spots and child-friendly activities. Depending on the length of your stay, you won’t necessarily manage to do everything. My list is a summary of three stays there. Of course, there are places we happily return to, beaches we particularly enjoy, and oyster huts where we love meeting up with friends. For us, the Bassin d’Arcachon really goes hand in hand with reunions, as several of our friends spend their summers there. It’s a bit like the film Les Petits Mouchoirs, but without the accompanying drama 🙂

This summer, we were based in Le Teich and explored the Bassin d’Arcachon from there. The previous time, we were based in La Teste-de-Buch, and the time before that in Cap-Ferret. Everywhere is great!

Trip to Cap-Ferret:

Cap-Ferret is an unmissable and utterly charming stop! For Papa Voyage, it’s full of childhood memories, as he spent all his summers there. It’s best to go early in the season, and preferably in July rather than August. This year, we were there in the third week of July and it was perfect. Cap-Ferret has something magical about it, as it separates the calm waters of the basin from the ocean: two atmospheres in one place! Such a contrast over just a few metres. We wandered around the lighthouse area and the tip of the peninsula. I must admit that the ocean side always impresses me. We walked in the shade of the pine trees before settling down on the vast and beautiful beach at the Pointe. This time, as we were staying in Le Teich (so in the south of the Bassin), we went by car and drove around the Bassin, but the quicker option is to take a boat between Arcachon and Cap-Ferret. All the information about the shuttle boats here.

Red Cap-Ferret lighthouse rising above pine trees and rooftops

The village of L’Herbe:

Once in Cap-Ferret, it’s really worth going as far as the village of L’Herbe, an oyster-farming village full of charm with its old, colourful huts. The edges of the Bassin are particularly lovely here, and the oyster huts all invite you to take an iodised break with a view.

Lane lined with oyster-farming cabins in the village of L’Herbe
bassin arcachon en famille

Visiting the lovely town of Arcachon

In high season, Arcachon can be very busy, so it’s best to go early in the morning or in the evening. The half-timbered houses are full of charm, especially the huge villas of the Ville d’Hiver, a district where 19th- and early 20th-century houses with incredible architecture are concentrated. There must have been a competition to see who could build the biggest and most original one! A stroll through the town centre is also a must, ideally ending with a little ice cream. We loved the ice creams from Olala:

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Alhambra dominant les maisons blanches de Grenade

Granada with children: a 2-day itinerary

During the Easter holidays, we spent 2 days in Granada as a family. I already knew the city, but wanted to introduce it to the children during our Andalusian road trip. Granada is, of course, famous for its magnificent Alhambra. I booked tickets well in advance because demand is extremely high. Granada is also a beautiful, manageable city that is enjoyable to explore on foot — although the hills make it quite energetic. Here is a summary of our stay in Granada with the children.

Alhambra rising above the white houses of Granada

Children’s ages: Ticoeur was 14 and Titpuce 12.

When we travelled: we were in Andalusia during the Easter school holidays, but after Semana Santa because I wanted to avoid the crowds. It was perfect, both for visitor numbers and the weather.

Granada with children: what can you see in 2 days?

Here is the itinerary for our 2 days and 2 nights in Granada with the children:

Views of the Alhambra

The day before visiting the Alhambra, we went in search of the best viewpoints. Seeing the monument from a distance was an excellent introduction before exploring it in detail. We began at Mirador de San Nicolás in the Albaicín. It is the best-known and therefore busiest viewpoint, but undeniably beautiful and not to be missed.

Alhambra palace behind trees in Granada

We then continued to a viewpoint that is less familiar to tourists, higher up and farther away near the monastery: Mirador de San Cristóbal . Plenty of students were picnicking, having drinks and playing music, which created a wonderful atmosphere. On our way down, we wandered through a maze of bohemian — sometimes rather dilapidated — lanes in Sacromonte. It felt completely different.

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Gorafe Desert family hike and Guadix

Hiking in the Gorafe Desert with the Family was one of the highlights we had in mind for our latest trip to Andalusia. After exploring the main Andalusian cities and the famous white villages on previous visits, we were keen to discover the “desert” side of the region. And as you know us, we love family hikes! So, the famous 24 km hike in the Gorafe Desert seemed like a perfect plan—admittedly a bit of a challenge, but nothing we couldn’t handle.
We based ourselves in Guadix to explore the desert. This town in eastern Andalusia is famous for its cave houses. The village of Gorafe is just a 30-minute drive away, making Guadix a convenient base. Plus, the area around Guadix is full of other stunning desert landscapes to discover, including the Badlands.

Why the Gorafe Desert is so captivating

The Gorafe Desert is full of striking geological formations in shades of ochre and red. It forms part of the Granada Geopark, a UNESCO-recognised site of geological and cultural importance. You’ll see large ravines that might remind you of the American West. In fact, it’s funny—when trying to describe the Gorafe Desert, references to the US keep popping up. Those Americans really are masters of marketing! They’ve planted the image in our minds, while ironically, seeing the western US could just as easily make you think: “Wow, this looks just like the Gorafe Desert!”
If you dream of wide-open spaces, canyons, and real escapism, Andalusia is a must. The Gorafe Desert won’t disappoint—it’s a real favourite of ours.

Gorafe Desert

A quick warning: the renowned Ruta del Desierto de Gorafe leading to Los Coloraos is tough—not technically, but because of its length and elevation gain.
Before we went, there was very little information on whether families could tackle this hike. Even without children, it seems few people walk this route. Now that we’ve done it, though, we can confidently say it’s the best way to experience the desert—and we hope this guide helps sporty families who want to give it a go!

Our Family Hike in the Gorafe Desert

Here are the key details of our hike:

  • 24 km loop: it’s long. Children should be used to long walks. We completed it in 6½ hours, including a 30-minute lunch break—so 6 hours of walking in total.
  • Halfway along, at the furthest point, you reach the famous viewpoint Los Coloraos, where the geological formations are most colourful, with shades reminiscent of a Western movie! Yes, I know—I’m comparing it to the US again! Pfff!
  • Elevation gain of 753 metres: we’ve tackled this kind of climb in the mountains before, but two things made it tricky here. First, the trail starts by descending into a canyon, meaning the easiest section comes first. By the time you reach Los Coloraos, the hard part is still ahead! Psychologically, this is tougher than summiting a mountain—at least then, the worst is behind you. Second, a 753-metre climb in the Alps on a cool day is one thing, but in southern Spain, it can get hot. We were there in April, a lovely season, but the desert temperature swings quickly. Starting at 9am, it was 13°C, soon climbing to 16°C—perfect. After lunch, we faced the climb back in 24°C heat, which made those 753 metres feel even tougher, especially with little shade.
  • Trail conditions: there’s no technical difficulty as the path is a 4×4 track. It’s wide, comfortable, and easy to follow. The route is signposted as PR-A 426. In 6½ hours, we only saw one 4×4! These excursions are pricey, so traffic is rare. We also planned to hike on a weekday, in case Granada locals visited at weekends.

If you’re still reading, you’re probably feeling up for it! For children used to hiking, it’s very manageable. This is not a beginner’s hike, nor is it for very young children. Ticoeur and Titpuce were 14 and 12 at the time. More important than age is whether your kids can walk 6 hours with a serious climb. Shall we go?

The Ruta del Desierto Loop via Los Coloraos

We started the Gorafe Desert trail at 9am. To reach the start, drive to the village of Gorafe and follow the signs upwards. We parked at the trailhead, completely alone, next to a large information board. We chose to hike clockwise, but honestly, it doesn’t matter much. The advantage of our direction is that you see the most beautiful and varied landscapes first. If you don’t complete the loop, you can always turn back and you’ll already have seen plenty.

Waymarkers for a hiking route in the Gorafe Desert

And we’re off!

Family walking away along a track between arid hills at Gorafe

We soon felt immersed in this exceptional geopark:

Clay gullies and ridges in the Gorafe Desert

The snowy Sierra Nevada looms in the distance…

Winding track through Gorafe's dry hills

The landscapes keep changing as we move forward…

Panorama of striated badlands near Gorafe

Two hours in…

Isolated clay butte in the Gorafe Desert

And onwards…

Distant hikers on a pale ridge in the Gorafe Desert

Feels a bit like Colorado, doesn’t it? 🙂

Canyon with steep walls in the Gorafe Desert

Track beside Gorafe's clay cliffs

We reach the viewpoint Los Coloraos, halfway through the loop (about 12 km). It’s the most famous viewpoint in the Gorafe Desert—but honestly, the scenery was beautiful all along the way. Even if you tire before reaching it, you’ll have seen incredible views.

Striped cliffs in the Los Coloraos area of Gorafe
Los Coloraos, Gorafe

We stopped for a picnic at noon after three hours of walking, finding some shade in a bend. After lunch, it was time to climb out of the canyon—and it felt hot!

Family walking away along a track beneath Gorafe cliffs

Family seen from behind beneath a tall rock face at Gorafe

We passed the Barranco de Los Anchurones:

Striped clay hills in the Granada Geopark

As I mentioned, the climb back is challenging. We spotted a 4×4 camper van struggling on the track, which had large ruts on the second half of the route.

Campervan and family on a track in the Gorafe Desert

Passing the Cerro de la Bandera:

Erosion-sculpted arid landscape around Gorafe

We continued to climb, slowly but surely, discovering more stunning formations in lighter shades:

Deep gullies and pale ridges in the Gorafe badlands

Family in the distance on a track between Gorafe's hills

We were almost done when we spotted the glass house (a hotel) at the start of the hike. Fun fact: this house appears in an episode of Black Mirror. I’ve watched many episodes of this TV series, but I hadn’t seen this particular one.

Layered cliffs in the Gorafe Desert

The final stretch winds through an almond orchard:

Back at the car, we hadn’t encountered any other hikers—the car was still alone. We’d brought plenty of water, which we drank during the second half of the hike! Exhausted and thirsty, we returned to Gorafe village and ordered two drinks each at the first bar we found. As I mentioned earlier, 24°C with no shade really feels hot! Everyone was wearing trousers—hiking trousers that convert to shorts would have been ideal for the climb back. And of course, don’t forget hats and sunscreen!

Red car outside a cave house near Guadix

Options for Discovering the Gorafe Desert as a Family if the Hike is Too Challenging

  • Shorten the hike. This is the best option if 24 km feels too much. Even the first few kilometres are stunning! 2, 3, or 5 km—choose a distance that suits your children and turn back whenever you like. Don’t be disappointed if you don’t reach the Los Coloraos viewpoint—the views are incredible from the very start.
  • Take a 4×4 tour: I mention this mainly to warn you that you might encounter 4x4s on the trail, as it doubles as a track. Personally, I don’t recommend it. Walking allows you to really absorb the scenery. Plus, we hope hikers won’t see more than one 4×4 like we did—luckily, we only saw one! These tours are expensive anyway, which keeps traffic low.
  • Drive to the Los Coloraos viewpoint: With a normal car, you can do the first half of the loop as an out-and-back. The second half is too rough. But in my opinion, driving is less rewarding than walking. It’s better to do a short hike. Even if the track is decent in the first section, a rental car wouldn’t be covered for damage. Avoid it!
  • Electric bike: At the end of the hike, we saw a young couple preparing to cycle the loop on e-bikes. Fine for a couple used to rough tracks, but I couldn’t do it! For a family, it’s tricky—even with e-bikes, there’s a big climb and rough terrain. Plus, for four people, rentals would be costly.

In short, adjust the hike to your fitness, motivation, and family hiking experience. Bring plenty of water and soak in the views!

Our Guadix Accommodation: a Charming Cave House

Gorafe is an hour east of Granada, so it’s possible to visit from the city. But for a 24 km hike, staying closer makes sense. Gorafe village has some lovely cave accommodations, but they were pricier than in Guadix, a small town 30 minutes away. So, we compromised. We stayed in Guadix for two nights at this wonderful cave house. We loved it—highly recommended!

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When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
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White sitting room inside cave accommodation in Guadix

The accommodation is in Guadix’s cave house district, on the outskirts of town—a very typical area. Our cave house was comfortable, with a kitchen, bathroom, two bedrooms, a small courtyard, barbecue, and even a tiny pool (water too cold in April!). Highly recommended.

Family seen from behind outside a whitewashed cave house in Guadix

Here’s the cave district. Not long ago, it was mainly inhabited by Romani people. Today, there are some locals and several tourist accommodations.

Cave houses and hills around Guadix

White chimneys of Guadix's cave houses

This district is different from central Guadix. Approaching the town by road, you first see the modern, less charming part. Then you discover a small, pleasant historic centre where we strolled in the early evening near the cathedral and castle.

View over the towers and rooftops of Guadix

Palm-lined square and historic buildings in Guadix

For food in Guadix, we recommend the bar-churreria Cafetaria Versalles, serving excellent churros with hot chocolate—perfect before a family hike. It opens early, so we went at 7:30am:

Churros and cups of hot chocolate on a table in Andalusia

We also enjoyed cooking in our cave house courtyard, but on our last night we tried a local restaurant: Braseria La Tinaja, a large grill-restaurant at the town edge. Very popular, with a friendly waiter, lively atmosphere, generous portions, and excellent value!

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The Badlands Around Guadix

Another perk of staying in Guadix is being able to enjoy the Badlands landscapes. Guadix is part of the geopark, and the scenery is very similar to Gorafe. Just a few minutes from the town, there are several viewpoints accessible by car. If you haven’t done the full Gorafe Desert hike, you can opt for shorter walks in the Badlands. Here are three viewpoints we visited by car.
First, the viewpoints at Purullena and Marchal, right next to each other, offering beautiful panoramas:

Landscape of eroded hills around Guadix

Next, the viewpoint at Beas de Guadix:

Ochre and grey gullies in the Guadix badlands

Finally, we left the Badlands via a scenic road. Our next destination? Granada!

Winding track between cliffs in the Gorafe Desert

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In Conclusion:

I hope I’ve inspired you to explore this corner of southern Spain. The Gorafe Desert and Guadix region offer breathtaking, cinematic landscapes. The Gorafe Desert hike is challenging, but you can always shorten it. Staying in Guadix lets you see a lesser-known, quieter side of Andalusia. Spring seemed ideal for this region—avoid the summer heat.
And if you enjoy family hikes, check out my article on the Caminito del Rey hike in western Andalusia—it’s very easy. Next time we return to Andalusia, we plan to explore another desert: the Tabernas Desert!

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So, are you tempted by the Gorafe Desert and the Guadix region?

Also worth reading

The Caminito del Rey as a familyHow to prepare your Caminito del Rey in Andalusia hike with children
Trip to Andalusia with the kidsItinerary for a week in Andalusia with children
Seville with children: our 10 must-see placesOur 10 must-see places in Seville with children, from Plaza de España and the Alcázar to Santa Cruz, flamenco and practical…
Granada with children: a 2-day itineraryWhat to do in Granada with children: our Alhambra visit, the Albaicín, tapas, flamenco and family excursions around the city.
7 family hikes in MallorcaOur 7 hikes as a family in Mallorca during the autumn term-break
Sicily as a family: 10 days in 3 must-see stopoversSicily with children: Mount Etna, the temples of Agrigento, the Baroque towns and our swims!
Façades peintes et enseigne en forme de botte à Camden Town

London: Discover Camden as a family and walk along the canal

Visiting Camden is very often on the agenda of anyone travelling to London. In particular, if you are in London with your family and have teenagers with you, there is a very good chance that this area will appeal to them! It’s an alternative, offbeat, slightly rock-and-roll neighbourhood – and therefore very cool! The first time I went there, I was 15. It was on a school trip. Camden left a strong impression on me because of its atmosphere and its “underground” style. For those who, like me, knew Camden in the 80s or 90s, I should point out that it has changed quite a bit since then! Camden Market no longer looks like a flea market full of “bad guys”!

Camden Market is now more polished, more touristy, almost “bo-bo” (bourgeois-bohemian)… The market shops have been redone and renovated, and food stalls have taken the place of the old little craft and knick-knack stalls of all kinds. The first time I went back, I was even a little disappointed not to find the old spirit. It’s less quirky, less “a change of scenery”. That said, if it’s your first time in Camden, it’s still a very distinctive area that’s well worth spending a few hours in – especially with pre-teens and teenagers. What’s more, from Camden there is a walk that I really like, along Regent’s Canal. It lets you see a completely different side of London. Very few tourists take the time to walk along the canal from Camden to Little Venice (1 to 1.5 hours on foot). And yet, it’s well worth it! On the way, you can make a detour via Primrose Hill for a lovely distant view over London. Between exploring Camden and the long walk along the canal, you should almost plan a full day (with breaks), or a well-paced long half-day! So? Follow me on this family walk in London, from Camden to Little Venice.

Visiting Camden: the market, its vintage shops and its quirky atmosphere

You arrive in Camden via the “Camden Town” underground station. From there, by taking Camden High Street, you’ll quickly be plunged into the area’s scenery with its decorated façades. As I said above: in the past it was similar, but the paintings weren’t all brand new and the people were more original :-).

Colourful façades and three-dimensional shop signs on Camden High Street in London

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