It was not our first time in Andalusia but it was our first trip to Andalusia with the kids. We went there during the Easter holidays, making sure not to be there during Semana Santa to avoid the crowds and find accommodation more easily, at lower prices. However, we saw the preparations for the decorations for Semana Santa so it was interesting to show this aspect to the children. Between the landscapes, the sunny weather, the architecture of the cities and the Spanish cuisine, it has been a great trip!
Our itinerary for a week in Andalusia
In the introduction, I would like to point out that the choice of our stays would not have been the same in the case of a very first trip to Andalusia. I will therefore first present our itinerary and then tell you what you could add if you are visiting Andalusia for the first time.
Day 1: Málaga
Malaga was the first stop on our trip to Andalusia. We didn’t know this city and we really liked it. To start off slowly, we went for churros and chocolate for breakfast at Tejeringo’s. Then, we admired the cathedral from the outside.
After the cathedral, we decided to visit the Alcazaba. This palace-fortress dates from the 11th century and its various patios are charming. Obviously, it’s not comparable to the Alcazar of Seville or the Alhambra of Granada but it’s pretty and it’s worth it!
Then we have lunch at the market. There are small tables outside and it is possible to order tapas.
Afterwards, we visit the Picasso museum. This is his birthplace. The collection does not present the most well-known works but that is precisely what I find interesting.
We continue our walk in the city:
We pose in front of the cube of the small Pompidou museum but we do not visit it.
Right before dinner we went to see a flamenco show at Tabloa Alegria. The dancing was very good, impressive. The place, less friendly than other places where I had seen flamenco in Seville. The bottom line is that we had a great time. Moreover, for the children it was completely new!
For dinner, we stopped by chance at a very typical tapas bar: La Tranca. It was really good. As for accommodation in Malaga, we slept in the historic center (it was perfect for doing everything on foot!). We booked the room with patio here.
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Day 2: Malaga then Vejer de la Frontera
After the same chocolate churros as the day before, we visit the glass museum. A favorite ! This is a huge private collection of glass objects. We had a tour in French with lots of stories and anecdotes. And what’s more, the villa is superb! Clearly a visit not to be missed during your visit to Malaga. See opening hours on their website.
Car rental in Malaga:
On site, we called several car rental companies and we had a good feeling with Miami Hire. They arranged to meet us at the station to leave the car (a Fiat 500) with us. Everything went well. We recommend them. We then take the road along the coast towards the east to visit a white village that we did not yet know and which is located just before the city of Cádiz: Vejer de la Frontera. Magnificent!
In the evening we reach Cádiz.
Day 3:Cádiz and Jerez de la Frontera .
Cadiz, a discovery, a favorite! Here is a town in Andalusia that we didn’t know. It turned out to be very pleasant. In fact, there are no major visits to do but it’s just very aesthetic; the facades are very beautiful…
We climb the Tavira Tower for a small panoramic view and also for its dark room which allows a little optical show.
In Cádiz, the room we rented was simple but located in a very beautiful building. We recommend this address: Casa Patio del Pandora. The patio was particularly pretty:
Leaving Cádiz, we cross an impressive bridge:
Then we drive to Jerez de la Frontera to visit a bodega. Yes, Papa Voyage is a fan of Jerez wines! The tour in French and Spanish was very interesting and the tasting, too! We recommend Bodega Diez Meritos:
In the evening we reach Seville for the night.
Day 4 : Seville , still the most beautiful!
Without doubt the most beautiful city in Andalusia! It’s already my third time there and I can’t get enough of it! I will write a post dedicated to visiting Seville combining our various experiences there. This time we spent two nights there. We stayed in this apartment, in the old town.
Plaza de España , Seville
Day 5: El Caminito del Rey then Ronda
During my previous stays, it was no longer open to the public because major work had been undertaken to make the place safe. Now, rest assured: it’s really safe!! Visiting this canyon on the footbridge is definitely worth it! Please note: it requires a little anticipation to book the visit. See the complete guide to our experience on the Caminito del Rey! The children loved it!
At the end of the day, we reach Ronda, which we know well. We enjoy the beautiful light of the setting sun:
The gardens of Ronda…
Our accommodation was just outside the fortification, in a lovely area. A very typical accommodation that we really liked with its series of small terraces: Ronda Romantica Loft. We were in the duplex apartment.
Day 6: Andalusian white villages
We had already visited quite a few white villages during our various stays. We did a mix between revisiting villages we loved and discovering new ones. Here are the villages where we stopped this time: Setenil de las Bodegas. It’s very small but it’s impressive:
Then direction Montejaque which we did not yet know:
Mini hike to the Gato cave to stretch our legs: a lovely site! Grazalema with its rock which watches over the village… We have lunch there (at the La Maroma restaurant, not light but very good!).
Return to Ronda for a quiet late afternoon. Discovery of an excellent little tapas bar: Entrevinos.
Day 7 : El Torcal de Antequera
I was hesitant before visiting this place because there are actually similar landscapes in England but still it was worth it! Indeed, the site is impressive and we can never get tired of this kind of natural wonder! And the density of stones is particularly great in Torcal de Antequera. We did a two-hour hike, partly on the yellow path and partly on a path improvised by Papa Voyage!
And the circle is complete ! Head to Malaga airport!
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More tips for a trip to Andalusia with children:
Car hire for visiting Andalusia:
We hired a car at Malaga airport. We had a Fiat 500 for €17/day. The roads were all in very good condition and pleasant to drive on.
Our other trips to Andalusia:
If you don’t know this region, you mustn’t miss Granada and its Alhambra, or the city of Cordoba with its flower-filled patios and mosque.
Best season:
Spring was perfect! We loved it!
I strongly advise against visiting this part of Spain in the middle of summer. I did it once and I won’t be caught out again! It was so hot that it was impossible to walk through the white villages and the countryside was all dry and yellow. Also, spring really is a beautiful season for the flowers in the patios and the green landscapes.
The children’s opinion:
In conclusion, what did Ticoeur and Titpuce think? According to the children, the highlights of this trip to Andalusia were: beautiful visits with a real change of scenery, adventure with the Caminito del Rey, and tapas!
For our multi-generational trip of the year, we chose a city break to Rome with the family, with the children and the grandparents. I went to Rome dozens of times as a child (ah, my Italian roots!) and it’s clearly a city I’ll never tire of. Rome was also our very first trip abroad with Ticoeur when he was only 4 months old. In short, I won’t talk about “discovering Rome” but about “reuniting with Rome”, which didn’t stop us from revisiting tourist sights we already knew well. Let’s say our programme was a mix of must-sees and off-the-beaten-track visits. Feel free to pick and choose ideas from it! Children’s ages: Titpuce 10 and Ticoeur 12 Time of the trip: early June (because we have a week of school holidays in England). Length of the trip: 4 days and 4 nights.
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What to visit on a family trip to Rome?
The Colosseum ❤ : Among the must-sees, we went back to see the Colosseum. We took a late-afternoon visit and it was ideal because, at the time we arrived, it was clearly the moment when a big wave of tourists was leaving. We enjoyed some beautiful golden light. The entry ticket also gives access to the Roman Forum, but it was closing when we came out of the Colosseum, so we went the next morning. The Roman Forum: Ruins and more ruins! I still find the walk just as enjoyable. A journey into the past that lets you imagine what Rome looked like at the time. To better understand what the buildings looked like in Roman times, the Welcome Rome films are perfect (see below). Visiting the Pantheon: An exceptional building and free entry (Update 2023: unfortunately this visit is no longer free 🙁 ). That’s an excellent combination! We went at opening time in the morning to have fewer people around. In the evening, we always walked past it on our way back to our accommodation. I love the atmosphere all around. The famous Roman fountains ❤: The fountains of Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, Campo de’ Fiori (where there’s a market) and of course the Trevi Fountain: classics that we passed several times during our walks around the city. I particularly love Piazza Navona – nice and spacious and, oddly, not that crowded. The Villa Borghese park: We arrived via Piazza del Popolo and walked up into the park – shady and pleasant, especially as it was hot. From up there, there’s a lovely view. So those were the must-sees we already knew but wanted to see again. We chose what seemed the nicest for a family visit to Rome. We skipped the Vatican this time.
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Some new discoveries:
During this stay, we also visited places we didn’t yet know: Welcome Rome ❤: a big favourite! These are multimedia animations: a series of films, holograms and animated images that help you understand the stages of Rome’s construction. An excellent way to imagine what all the ruins we came across during our stay once looked like. A condensed dose of History that appealed to both the children and the adults! Note that the only downside is that you stay standing for each projection, so it’s less comfortable for grandparents. We went at the end of the day and it was very quiet. More information on the Welcome Rome website. A perfect family visit! The Doria Pamphilj Palace ❤: another favourite! A lovely collection of paintings in a magnificent palace! The palace dates from the 16th century. You’ll come across 400 works, but we especially loved the palace rooms: it’s like visiting a château! Lots of mirrors and ornamentation. It’s too much but it’s brilliant! Adult price: €14 and free for children. The Baths of Caracalla The remains of the old bath walls are very high, so very impressive. There are also a few mosaics. But we expected to see more details evoking the baths. It’s hard to imagine the baths and how the place worked. It’s very different, but we prefer the Roman baths in Bath in England. That said, if you put the “baths” aspect aside, the place is very pleasant. Adult price: €8 and free for children. The Catacombs of Priscilla It was interesting, but it was really far (endless bus journey) and above all we’ve had the chance to visit many catacombs in Italy that left a stronger impression on us (especially in Naples), so if we had to do it again, we wouldn’t go. But if you’ve never visited catacombs in Italy, why not. The guided tour is well done and informative. Adult price: €8 and free for children. The Chiostro del Bramante Which hosts contemporary installation art exhibitions: during our visit, we saw the “Crazy” exhibition. We really liked the diversity of shapes and colours! For children, it’s truly playful and original art. And lots of churches, of course! A bit at random during our walks… There’s an incredible density of beautiful churches! All superb, all different, and there are still plenty more to discover! We saw the Basilica of Saint Clement of the Lateran, the Basilica of Sant’Andrea della Valle, the Church of St Louis of the French, the church of San Stefano (warning: the paintings in the latter are scary… avoid showing the details to children), …
San Stefano church
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We walked 17 to 20 km a day in the streets of Rome:
With Ticoeur and Titpuce, we really walked a lot because Rome is an open-air museum! Omi and Opa, for their part, opted for an afternoon nap after lunch, just to take a break from the family’s sporty pace ;-). Our long walks took us to lovely places such as: The Galleria Sciarra, a remarkable example of Art Nouveau! Castel Sant’Angelo on the banks of the Tiber… and the Vatican in the distance… The imposing Monument to Victor Emmanuel II and Capitoline Hill… We also quickly went into the Capitoline Museums to say hello to the statue of the she-wolf with Romulus and Remus. Largo di Torre Argentina, then through the nearby Jewish quarter… And we passed by the ruins of Trajan’s Market…
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Rome with the family: our good addresses
Restaurants:
Giolitti: a must-visit ice cream parlour a stone’s throw from the Trevi Fountain!
Pizzeria Romana al taglio: for grabbing a slice of pizza on the go (good value). In the same style, there’s Pinsitaly near the Trevi Fountain.
La Mastrociccia: typical Roman cuisine, family-run and no-frills. On the same street (Via del Governo Vecchio), there are lots of restaurants like this and they all look nice.
L’Emporio alla Pace: a small bar perfect for an aperitif drink! Very friendly staff.
La Tavernetta 48: the fine-dining restaurant we all enjoyed and where we had dinner one evening on the terrace.
Prefetti 19: another fine-dining restaurant that I personally really enjoyed.
This time, we didn’t have time to go to the Tastevere district, but it’s the ideal area to eat in small trattorias! A great atmosphere guaranteed for a Roman-style dinner!
Accommodation in Rome:
We chose a flat for 6, with 3 bedrooms, not far from Piazza di Spagna. Very good location. This flat is no longer online, so here are three other well-located options for a family of 4:
Ale & Niki : a quadruple room with a double bed and a sofa bed. Lovely decor and a very good location, in the Vaticano Prati district by Ottaviano metro.
During our first stay in Rome, we stayed between the Colosseum and the station: see this flat in the Monti district.
La maison Romana: a more budget-friendly flat for four, not very far from Termini station by Manzoni metro.
**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****
The Roma Pass:
This time, we didn’t buy the Roma Pass because we weren’t doing enough visits included in the pass, nor enough journeys by public transport to make it worthwhile (we walked so much!), but do take a look at this option, which could help you save money!
And for next time in Rome?
When we go back to Rome, because of course we will go back, I’d like to visit the ruins of Trajan’s Market, which we only walked past, discover Palazzo Colonna, and then take the children to the Vatican. And you? Have you ever visited Rome as a family? Also check out our other ideas for city breaks in Italy.
The question of accommodation in London comes up very often, so I wanted to bring together all our tips and recommended addresses, hoping to help you choose a neighbourhood for your next family trip to London or romantic getaway. Even before living in England, we went to London twice a year because we have family there and because we love the English capital, where Papa Voyage studied. Since we’ve been living on the English coast, we’re 1 hour 30 minutes from London and we still go there very regularly for a weekend.
After all these London getaways, we’ve had the chance to stay in different neighbourhoods and to try out flat rentals and hotels all over London. Here’s a short list that should help you find your way around London and help you choose where to stay, bearing in mind there isn’t one single answer to the question I’m often asked: “what’s the best neighbourhood to make the most of London?”, “Where to sleep in London?” There are several possible options and it depends on you… I’ll explain why!
Indeed, before going through the list of London neighbourhoods we’ve tested and approved, it’s important to keep in mind that London really is a much bigger city than Paris. So the miracle accommodation next to everything is mission impossible! So I’ll try to guide you by indicating, for each area, the attractions that will be close to your accommodation and those that will require a longer journey. That way, you can choose the neighbourhood that will best suit YOUR sightseeing programme in London.
On the map below, I’ve pinpointed most of the must-see places in London to show you how I prepare a trip: I create a map in Google Maps to visualise the places we want to visit, then I choose accommodation accordingly. So don’t hesitate to create your own map with your little list of London must-dos!
For each neighbourhood, I’ll also share my selection of accommodation: flat rentals for visiting London as a family or with an extended family (we’ve sometimes gone with grandparents or friends), as well as places to stay for a romantic getaway (in that case, more likely hotels).
1: Staying in “South Ken”, in the heart of the French neighbourhood (South Kensington)
For those who don’t know yet, South Kensington is where a large part of the French expat community is based. Now, that may not necessarily appeal to you, but let’s say expats didn’t choose South Ken by chance: it’s a very pleasant, pretty area (with all the typical London streets and mews). South Ken (its little nickname) makes a good base for visiting London. I find that South Kensington is really suited to a family trip. You’ll find houses or large flats on Airbnb.
By staying in South Kensington, you’ll get the charm of London architecture, accommodation is a bit cheaper than in the centre because it isn’t the centre, but it’s very well located for enjoying many must-sees!
By staying in South Kensington, you’ll be perfectly placed to visit:
The Natural History Museum (a must for children, with the huge skeletons and the dinosaurs! And it’s a free museum…)
The Victoria & Albert Museum (less well known but well worth a visit – the permanent collection is free and there’s a lovely inner courtyard for a drink).
Hyde Park (with the Serpentine Gallery and the Diana Memorial)
The department store Harrods
A few distance pointers you’ll need to cover:
St Pancras International, where you’ll arrive if you come by Eurostar, is 30 minutes by Tube, but at least it’s direct on the Piccadilly Line (station: Gloucester Road)
If you want to visit the Harry Potter Studios, you’ll need to get to “Euston Station”, which is also about half an hour from South Ken (it’s next to St Pancras)
Thanks to the Piccadilly Line, you can reach Piccadilly Circus (10 min), Covent Garden (15 minutes), Chinatown (17 min) and the British Museum (22 min) without changing.
To reach the Big Ben / Westminster Abbey / Parliament area: 20 minutes by Tube (District or Circle line)
To reach the famous Notting Hill neighbourhood: 15 minutes by Tube (Circle line).
By basing yourself in South Ken, you’ll be quite far (35 to 40 min) from: Tower Bridge, the City, Borough Market… But as I said above, you can’t be next door to everything ;-)… and it’s still doable.
The Piccadilly Line is the line that goes to Heathrow Airport in the east (allow 50 min from South Ken).
Note: all the timings I’ve given are from Tube stations. So you need to add the walking time from your accommodation to the Tube.
If the rental prices in South Ken are still a bit high for your budget, you can move a little further out while staying on the Piccadilly Line and aim for Earl’s Court (where there are budget hotels – see further down in the article) or Hammersmith.
Note that South Kensington is not part of the “congestion zone”, so there’s no charge to drive there (unlike the centre – see map of the congestion zone) but you’ll still need to find parking…
Accommodation in South Kensignton (or Kensington):
The City Prime Hotel is west of South Ken station. It offers small apartments with a double bed, sofa bed and kitchenette.
**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****
2 – Staying in Notting Hill (for love at first sight!)
In Notting Hill, there are mainly small places because it’s residential. It’s a fairly expensive area, but less so than the centre. So if you’d like to stay there, it’s best to rent a flat or a house. Architecturally, it’s especially beautiful because there are lots of colourful houses. A perfect neighbourhood for families or couples.
By staying in Notting Hill, you’ll be perfectly placed to visit:
The famous street that runs through all of Notting Hill (Portobello Road) and lots of lovely mews.
Holland Park: less visited by tourists than Hyde Park or Regent’s Park, but a very beautiful, typical English park with a Japanese corner.
Little Venice: the charm of London’s canals and big houseboats… In fact, if you’re staying in this area, I strongly recommend doing the long walk along the canal from Little Venice to Camden (where the market is), passing through Regent’s Park.
A few distance pointers you’ll need to cover:
From “Notting Hill Gate” station, you can use the Central Line (efficient and practical), which crosses London from west to east while staying fairly far north, so you’ll often need to add a walk or change lines to reach points of interest that are a bit south of the line. So, with a change or a walk, allow 15 minutes to Piccadilly Circus, 20 minutes to Covent Garden, 22 minutes to St Pancras station.
To visit the Natural History Museum in South Kensington, allow 15 minutes by Tube (Circle line).
Like South Ken, Notting Hill is in the west, so on the opposite side from Tower Bridge (35–40 minutes by Tube).
Accommodation in Notting Hill:
Ravna Gora: small quadruple room on the Holland Park side:
NB: Notting Hill is outside the congestion zone.
3 – Staying in Chelsea, except on a match night!
I’ll continue with neighbourhoods in west London: Chelsea. Chelsea is known for its chic shops and art galleries, but also its football stadium! We actually stayed just a stone’s throw from the stadium because guess what? Well, it’s cheaper than the chic shopping part of Chelsea. The stadium area is a bit further out, but it’s still a very good location. The one thing to watch: do not book accommodation near the football stadium on a match night! It would be a nightmare in terms of traffic, crowds and noise!
Move a little further out again, just after Chelsea to the west, and you reach Fulham. It’s a good option in terms of value for money; what’s more, it’s a family neighbourhood (especially around Parsons Green station). You’ll be on the District Line, my favourite Tube line. Note that in these western areas you can hear planes going to and from Heathrow a little, but I don’t find it too bothersome.
A few distance pointers:
If you’re in chic Chelsea (around King’s Road near the Saatchi Gallery), then for distances, see my section on South Ken as it will be very similar.
If you’re near the football stadium, you’ll need to add almost 5–10 minutes to all the distances I gave for South Ken.
If you’re in Fulham, you’ll need to add 10–15 minutes… it starts to add up, but it brings accommodation costs down and this area remains very London in its architectural style:
Accommodation in Chelsea–Fulham–Parsons Green:
As a family, we booked this Victorian flat with a garden for 4 people (2 bedrooms and 2 double beds). Earl’s Court or West Brompton Tube. Earl’s Court is very practical because there’s the District Line and the Piccadilly Line. The location is excellent for visiting London. Bus towards South Ken and the centre.
NB: Chelsea, Fulham and Parsons Green are outside the congestion zone.
4 – Staying near Tower Bridge
By staying near Tower Bridge, you’ll be perfectly placed to visit on foot:
Tower Bridge
The Tower of London
The City (including the Sky Garden for the view or the lovely passage of Leadenhall Market)
The Shard (London’s tallest tower)
The Shoreditch neighbourhood (for street art and small markets)
Borough Market or Maltby Street Market (for lunch)
Tower BridgeTicoeur at the top of The Shard
For attractions further away:
If it’s an attraction on the Thames, like Big Ben, Tate Modern, St Paul’s, the London Eye, then I strongly recommend walking, because the landscaped stroll along the South Bank is truly unmissable! I’ve also dedicated a whole article to discovering London along the Thames.
Among the attractions on the opposite side from Tower Bridge are the Natural History Museum (33 minutes). You should also allow half an hour to reach St Pancras station. All other journeys should therefore be shorter, so it remains reasonable.
Accommodation near Tower Bridge:
I’ve been lucky enough to sleep several times right on the Thames with a view of Tower Bridge on business trips, but those were fairly expensive business hotels. If you want to stay in this area, I find the best compromise is the Novotel London Tower Bridge: family-friendly, very comfortable and well located.
To bring the budget down, there are many affordable hotels 10 minutes north of Tower Bridge (just before the Shoreditch area, known for street art). It doesn’t have the charm of London’s chic neighbourhoods, but it’s quite practical and more economical. It’s not a family area either, but if you find a place that’s large enough, it can be financially interesting. Personally, we tended to stay there more during our getaways as a couple, especially as it’s not far from our favourite cocktail bars :-).
Other examples of hotels north of Tower Bridge:
Flat on St Katharine Docks (nice for restaurants in the evening), with a double bedroom, a sofa bed and a balcony with a view.
Note: this area is in the congestion zone, so it’s better suited if you’re not driving.
5 – Staying south of the Thames near Tate Modern
We’re staying on the Thames but in a more central version than Tower Bridge: there are many modern hotels right next to Tate Modern. It’s a brand-new area with recent developments and therefore towers. It’s a long way from the charm of Victorian houses, but it’s all new, well located, and I find the hotels in this area offer good value for money.
View from the 10th floor of Tate Modern
Advantage of this location:
Despite the lack of charm, it’s a safe and practical area…
On the South Bank of the Thames, you have direct access to the pedestrian walk along the river that I mentioned above (South Walk).
As Tate Modern is “in the middle”, at equal distance from the points of interest in the west and the east, it means your journeys will be more even in length. In fact, to visit central London, you can do everything on foot by crossing Waterloo Bridge. Allow 30 minutes to get to Covent Garden. Golden Jubilee Bridge is also handy because it’s pedestrian and takes you towards Trafalgar Square.
View from The Hoxton Southbank hotel
Accommodation near Tate Modern:
We stayed as a couple at The Hoxton Southbank. Very good. Don’t miss having a drink in their top-floor bar: there’s an oysters-and-gin happy hour!
With a friend, we also tried Nox Waterloo (we had a double room with twin beds, but they also have double beds and studios for 4). The hotel is on a lovely little street, just behind Waterloo station:
Note: this area is in the congestion zone, so it’s best to be without a car.
6 – Staying north of the centre: Islington, Camden, Primrose Hill
We stayed once in Islington and we liked this neighbourhood for its typical London architecture and atmosphere. You see quite a lot of families there. It’s a lively neighbourhood in its own right, with lots of shops and good restaurants. Islington is a good choice if most of the visits you’re planning are in the northern part of the centre. Note that Islington is large, so to optimise journeys, I recommend choosing accommodation close to “Angel” station.
By staying in Islington, you can easily reach:
St Pancras station (for Eurostar) or Euston (for the Harry Potter studios) in 10 minutes by Tube (Northern line)
Camden Market in 15 minutes, still via the Northern Line
You’ll be very close to the canal (mentioned above), which you can follow towards Camden and then Regent’s Park
The British Museum (15 min by bus)
You’ll need to travel further for attractions like the Natural History Museum (35 minutes) or Tower Bridge (25 minutes)
You could also opt to stay in Camden, which would bring you closer to the lovely parks and the views from Primrose Hill or Regent’s Park. See my article on visiting Camden.
Camden
Accommodation north of the centre:
Charlotte Guest House: quadruple room with en-suite bathroom, also next to Freud’s house.
This lovely house near Camden, with a terrace for 6 people (3 bedrooms). More expensive because it’s for 6, but there are last-minute deals.
NB: these neighbourhoods are outside the congestion zone.
7 – Staying in Hackney, off the beaten track
Do you already know London, have you been many times, and would you like to discover a new neighbourhood while saving money on accommodation? I recommend Hackney, in north-east London. Hackney is a large area: some parts are family-friendly and “boho”, others aren’t very recommendable in terms of safety, so I advise staying near Victoria Park, London Fields or Hackney City Farm, and reading accommodation reviews carefully to make sure you’re in a quiet spot.
By staying in Hackney, you’ll be perfectly placed to visit:
The superb Broadway Market: a gourmet market on Saturday mornings.
Victoria Park and its small Sunday morning market
The Columbia Road Flower Market (and, why not, look for accommodation around there: it’s more chic than Hackney, so more expensive, but further south and therefore closer to the attractions).
The V&A Museum of Childhood: a very nice museum for young children, with collections of toys from every era (free).
The little farm: Hackney City Farm (it’s not really a London must-see and it’s tiny, but if you’re staying in Hackney and you have very young children, it’s nice to stop by).
Towards the Thames, you’ll pass through Brick Lane and Shoreditch, where there are small flea markets, vintage clothing sellers and street art.
A few distance pointers you’ll need to cover:
Hackney isn’t very well served by the Tube, so you’ll need to use buses or combine walking and then the Tube. Journeys will therefore be around 40 to 45 minutes to reach most of the “classic” sights in the centre, and buses have the drawback of traffic, even though they’re quite nice for seeing the city… In short, Hackney is an option for people who have time, already know London and are looking for good-value family accommodation. We’ve stayed there many times and enjoyed it because it’s different and the atmosphere is nice.
The furthest point will be the Natural History Museum: allow 55 minutes from Victoria Park in Hackney.
Accommodation example in Hackney:
The few times we stayed in Hackney were for trips with grandparents or friends. We then needed accommodation that was a bit larger than usual, so choosing Hackney allowed us to find flats or houses bigger than in the centre.
The other house we booked is unfortunately no longer available.
NB: Hackney is outside the congestion zone.
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What about staying in central London?
You’ll have noticed that the very centre isn’t among the areas I recommend in this article. Why?
We stayed in the station area (St Pancras and Euston) and found it wasn’t pleasant. Less charm and more noise than other neighbourhoods.
Prices are very high and when we found something within our budget, it was tiny – like a small room with two double bunk beds and nothing else.
In the centre, there are lots of “bad Airbnbs”. By “bad Airbnbs”, I mean places that pretend to be hotels but aren’t… People who invest in an entire building and fit it out into lots of small furnished rooms at minimal cost. To me, the real Airbnb concept is staying in a lived-in place – someone’s main or second home that they’ve put on Airbnb to top up their income… You see the idea?
In the centre, there are very beautiful hotels, but they’re very expensive. Once, we were lucky enough to stay at the Hyatt Churchill because I’d won a night there! It’s great, but reserved for big budgets.
Should you rule out the centre when looking for accommodation in London? No, do still have a look! I’d say avoid the major thoroughfares because of the noise (like Oxford Street and many others), but look in lovely pockets such as around Covent Garden or in the very chic neighbourhoods of Mayfair and Marylebone. You’ll see if you find a gem at an affordable price! And don’t hesitate to share the address with us in the comments!
You’ll notice that I haven’t given prices in this article. The reason is simple: prices vary hugely depending on the period you choose! So accommodation we paid €150 per night for could be €300 per night if you choose a more in-demand week. Prices also change depending on supply and demand, how far in advance you book or, on the contrary, last-minute booking, and finally depending on the number of people. Also, everyone has a different budget (personally, I look in the €100–200 per night range) and everyone has their own criteria (for example, you absolutely want a dishwasher or a coffee machine ;-)). So my main aim is above all to give you a good sense of direction and ideas for neighbourhoods we enjoy in London. For the rest, I’ll leave you to do your research!
I’m also regularly asked what the budget hotel chains are in England, and therefore in London, offering very basic accommodation. We haven’t tried this type of hotel at all because we’ve always found what we wanted in more charming flats within our budget, but here are a few well-known names in the entry-level segment: Travelodge, Premier Inn, Easy hotel, Holiday Inn Express, Best Western, Ibis… (note: sometimes budget hotels are less budget than other higher-quality accommodation, so stay open-minded in your search).
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I hope this article helps you choose a neighbourhood for your next stay in London, as a family or as a couple! Above all, don’t hesitate to share your good accommodation tips with us in the comments! And to know what to visit, check out our complete guide to visiting London as a family!
See you soon in London? See you soon!
Here you’ll find more details to prepare your trip to London:
As this magnificent English forest is very close to where we live, we go there regularly, so I wanted to share 10 activity ideas for discovering the New Forest as a family.
If you come to the south of England and, more specifically, to Hampshire where we live, the New Forest is a must-see. On a road trip along the English coast, I recommend spending at least one day there, or even better: two days and one night if you have the time. That way, you’ll enjoy the landscapes and the famous New Forest horses. A perfect family stop!
As soon as we moved here, we set off to explore this forest (the largest in England), and we immediately fell in love with a place that feels so alive and so “inhabited”! It’s a chance for wonderful encounters with animals!
A little history to begin with: the New Forest is a royal forest, created by William the Conqueror, hence the adjective “new”… Before that, there were only heathlands in this area stretching all the way to the sea. Basically, William the Conqueror wanted his own forest, particularly for hunting. The capital was once in Winchester (also in Hampshire), so not far from here. Later, wood from the New Forest was used for Navy ships. Today, the New Forest is protected and is home to many animals that you’re bound to come across: fallow deer, red deer, cows, wild pigs, donkeys, sheep but above all thousands of wild horses (also called “New Forest ponies”). Seeing all these horses on our walks is truly magical! The children love it!
Here are 10 family programme ideas for visiting the New Forest:
With February half term approaching, you may have planned a trip to France to visit Paris or other beautiful regions or to go skiing in the French Alps of course! Now, you have your train or plane tickets but you feel lost regarding the Covid rules to enter France and the Covid rules in the country? I completely understand! That’s really confusing! As you may know, I am a French mum living in the UK so I can totally agree with your “lost in translation feeling”! My country has really not made things easy! That’s why, with that article, I will try to summarize the main Covid rules you need to know to enjoy your holiday there!
What are the Covid rules to enter France?
For France, the UK is an “orange” country. Here are the rules:
Show that you’re fully vaccinated. Please note that to enter France your Covid Pass will be valid if you had your booster no later than 9 months after your 2nd dose. But as your Covid Pass will only be valid 4 months after the 2nd jab for the activities you may have in France (visits, restaurants… see below), then it means that between the 5th month and the 9th month after your second dose, yes you can enter France but you won’t be able to do much while in the country.
No test needed for vaccinated people since February 12th, 2022
Children that are older than 12 years old but not fully vaccinated can travel with their vaccinated parents (no quarantine) but they need to take an antigen testin the 48 hours (or PCR in the 72h) before your trip to France (NHS tests not allowed as proof).
For everyone above 12 years old, a paper declaration form must be filled in (you declare you have no symptoms and that you have not been in contact with anyone with Covid in the 14 last days).
No travel restrictions for children under 12 years old.
Adults that are not fully vaccinated will have to quarantine 7 days and still need to take an antigen testin the 48 hours (or PCR in the 72h) before they travel to France.
Please find all the details of the rules to enter France on the French official website or on gov.uk
NEW : From March 15th, 2022 you won’t need the Covid Pass anymore for restaurants, museums, transports, cafés…
Covid Pass needed: for a lot of activities, you will need a Covid Pass. For instance to eat in a restaurant, to stay in a hotel, to visit a museum, to go to the movie theatre, etc…
What is the French Covid Pass? For adults AND for 16 to 18 years old children, a Covid pass is a proof of vaccination OR a Covid recovery certificate. For 12 to 15 years old children, the same proofs are valid but they can provide a negative antigenic test instead. For children younger than 12 years old, there is no Covid pass needed.
Be careful: the Covid Pass is only valid during 4 months after your second Covid jab or 4 months after you recovered from Covid (if you had 3 doses, then you’re completely fine!). For 12 to 15 years old children who are using antigen test to get the pass, the validity of their pass is only 24 hours! Therefore, they need to test every day to be able to participate to any of the activities I mentionned earlier. Some examples: 1/ if you had your 2nd Covid jab on November 1st 2021, it will be valid until March 1st. After that, you will need to show you had a 3rd jab. 2/ if you had Covid in January 2022 and got a recovery certificate, then your Covid pass will be valid until May (4 months after the date on your certificate) even if you had no Covid vaccine before. 3/ if you had your third jab on December 1st and you want to travel to France in May 2022 (more than 4 months later), then even if not specified, it’s still ok for the moment because there is no 4th jab campaign in France.
How to show your Covid Pass? if you live in the UK, you can show the QR code you got from the NHS (vaccine QR code or recovery certificate QR code). If you live in the EU, your country has also given you a QR code that works in all the EU countries. If you don’t use an app, you can show your QR code on paper. If you prefer, you can also scan your QR code in the French Covid app called “Tous Anti-Covid”. Your choice!
Covid rules on ski resorts in France:
Covid Pass needed for ski lifts of any kind: controls can be done when you buy your ski pass or when you take a ski lift or by the ski teacher of children above 12 years. If your 12 to 15 years old children need to test to get their Covid pass, I recommend you book antigen test appointments in advance in a local pharmacy. Cost is 25€ per test. The Covid Pass is also necessary for all the other activities in the resort: restaurants, hotels, swimming pools, spa, etc…
Wear a mask in ski lifts queues and on ski lifts: you can use any usual type of Covid mask or buy a warm Covid neckband. If your ski resort is at the border with Italy, be aware that only FFP2 masks are allowed there.
I hope you feel ready for your trip to France in Covid times! Bon voyage!
During the Christmas holidays, we spent a week under the Tenerife sun as a family. We loved it! And yet, I was a little apprehensive because, in the Canary Islands archipelago, we had already been on holiday in Lanzarote, so the bar was set very high! But we weren’t disappointed. Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands; Mount Teide is impressive and, clearly, it’s a perfect destination for hiking lovers, but not only that! So here is an overview of what we managed to do in one week in Tenerife, knowing that it’s far too short for such a large island and that we’ll be going back for more discoveries!
What to do in Tenerife as a family?
Go hiking, of course!
Clearly, if you’re hesitating between several Canary Islands and you’re keen on hiking, Tenerife is ideal! Whether in Teide National Park or in Anaga Rural Park in the north, you’ll find trails of all levels and superb landscapes, sometimes lunar, sometimes very green. See the detailed article on our 5 family hikes in Tenerife.
Boat trip to meet whales and dolphins:
Many families of pilot whales live year-round off the coast of Tenerife. Since the start of the pandemic, they’ve actually been more numerous and happier to see fewer tourists. With this type of outing, you always have to be careful when choosing the provider because there are rules for respecting the animals and restrictions on the number of authorised boats, but unfortunately there are always people who take tourists out without a licence. I recommend Whale Watch Tenerife, with whom we did the two-hour trip at sea. We were on a zodiac (maximum 10 people) with a passionate guide, and we kept our distance from these beautiful marine mammals. So you see them from far away (my photos are zoomed in), but it’s still magical, I assure you! Ticoeur and Titpuce loved it and we learned loads! On the way back, we came across dolphins (there are quite a few, but apparently you don’t see them on every outing, unlike the pilot whales). An excellent memory!
Visit a lava tube: Cueva del Viento
I should warn you: a tunnel formed by a lava flow is not as beautiful as a cave like the ones we’re used to seeing with stalagmites and stalactites. So the visit isn’t for aesthetic reasons. On the other hand, it’s a very interesting, educational and impressive visit when you imagine that we’re walking along the same path the lava took a very long time ago, thankfully. Our guide was brilliant and we learned loads about volcanoes and geology. What’s more, it was part of Ticoeur’s geography syllabus last term, so it worked out well! We recommend this unusual visit because it’s not common to be able to visit a lava tube! (I think it’s also possible on Réunion Island and in Hawaii.) To book, go to the Cueva del Viento website. Oh yes, one more point: when we were there, there were only tours in English, not French. Obviously that doesn’t bother us, but for a wider choice of languages, I imagine it’s better to go in high season.
Discover pretty villages, including Masca:
There are lots of pleasant and exotic villages. Sometimes, they’re not especially charming or picturesque, but they have something authentic about them. You can feel that a peaceful and local life unfolds there.
There’s also Masca, a tiny village that is very visited, this time not for the village itself but for its geographical setting and its huge rock, which reminded me a little of Huayna Picchu!
It’s the chance for a short, panoramic little walk. To discover the remote and local atmosphere of the small villages, nothing beats stopping there for a drink or lunch with the local people (in this type of simple inland restaurant, you’ll mainly find grilled specialities). As for towns, we stopped in La Orotava on the way back from Anaga Park: there are some beautiful colourful buildings there. It was perfect for a coffee in the main square.
We didn’t have time to see San Cristóbal de La Laguna or Santa Cruz de Tenerife, so that will be for next time! Our stay was more focused on nature than towns.
Swimming in natural pools:
Here is another popular activity in Tenerife! There are lots of natural pools which, in theory, allow you to swim sheltered from the big Atlantic Ocean waves. I say “in theory” because apart from one morning when we were able to swim, the other times the waves were so huge that they were even washing over the rocks of the natural pool, so we didn’t feel sufficiently sheltered! Let’s say it depends on the swell. In any case, they are beautiful landscapes and lovely seaside walks.
We mostly tried the natural pools around Garachico. El Caletón was closed, so we moved on to the Charco Los Chochos natural pool, which we loved. Ticoeur and I swam there (the water was 19–20 degrees, so too cool for Papa Voyage and Titpuce). Then we went on to the natural pools of Charco Las Mujeres (very beautiful as well!). On another day, we stopped at Charco del Viento and Charco de la Laja, but the ocean was too rough! All the natural pools I’ve just mentioned are located on the north coast of Tenerife.
In photos, when the natural pools are calm, it looks like this:
And when the pools are submerged by the ocean, it looks like this:
Swimming in the sea?
So you may be wondering whether there are any calm beaches for swimming with children. Yes, there are large beaches in the south-west. The ocean is calmer there BUT it’s the most touristy area of Tenerife. Since we were there out of season, those beaches were empty anyway, but the large hotel complexes spoil the natural setting. Not our kind of place! The rest of Tenerife has far more to offer. We still stopped at the large El Duque beach because it wasn’t far from the departure point for our whale trip. The children enjoyed this beach break and building sandcastles.
On another day, we stopped at the black sand beach of Los Gigantes: even if it’s not for swimming, it’s worth it for admiring the cliffs!
In any case, the water is cool all year round, which doesn’t bother me, but I prefer to warn those who feel the cold. To conclude, when it comes to swimming, we preferred Lanzarote.
The banana plantations of Tenerife
I’ll finish with the banana plantations: there are so many banana plantations that they will remain etched in our minds! They are clearly part of the island’s landscape. I had actually spotted that it was possible to visit one, Finca Las Margaritas, but sadly the opening hours didn’t fit with our already very full schedule! So that too will be for next time! On the other hand, we were able to taste Tenerife bananas, and they were excellent!
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Where to stay in Tenerife for a family holiday?
Many of you asked me where the best place was to base yourselves for a week when staying in Tenerife as a family. We were in Icod de Los Vinos, but the choice of village was down to chance, following the choice of house we had found. We could have stayed elsewhere. My main criterion was to avoid the touristy and overbuilt-up area around Costa Adeje and Los Cristianos—I mainly looked on the north coast. Wherever you stay, you’ll need a car, and you’ll often need to drive one or two hours because the island is large. The roads offer superb scenery, so it’s not wasted time! Especially when you cross Teide National Park! You’ll want to stop frequently to take photos.
If I go back to our accommodation: it was a villa for 4 people, with a terrace and a pool. The view towards the sea in the distance was superb. The children made use of the heated pool every day. We found it magical to be able to have dinner on the terrace every evening in the middle of December! (With a light jumper, all the same.)
In short, a very good address that offered several similar villas or flats (some with pools and others without), but unfortunately, for now I can only see this flat without a pool. I should point out that the villas or flats are semi-detached. Out of season, we weren’t bothered, but potentially you could end up with noisy neighbours. Apart from that, it was perfect!
**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****
Recommended restaurants in Tenerife:
Restaurant Tas-K in Los Gigantes: delicious and a great welcome! Very fresh, high-quality produce. Be warned: the terrace is tiny, so you need to arrive right at the start of service to have a chance of getting lunch there.
Mesón Casa Mi Madre: the catch of the day takes centre stage! A place recommended by Clo & Clem, who by chance were in Tenerife at the same time as us, and whom we had the good fortune to meet in real life!
Terrazas del Sauzal: the terrace of this bar-restaurant offers a breathtaking view over the sea and Teide. We had a drink there at sunset. Superb!
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Car hire in Tenerife:
We hired a car from the airport. We had a Renault Clio and it was perfect for getting around easily on Tenerife’s roads. We paid €36 for the week. Check the comparison site DiscoverCars. Each time, we choose one of the cheapest options, but making sure to choose:
a rental company with good ratings
a “full-to-full” fuel policy
free cancellation.
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In conclusion, coming back to the question I’m often asked: Lanzarote or Tenerife? We liked both for different reasons. I recommend Lanzarote as a family for the sea and the artistic visits linked to the presence of César Manrique’s works; and I recommend Tenerife for the hikes, Teide, the whales. Lanzarote is smaller, more arid, with less relief and fewer buildings. Tenerife has more contrasting landscapes, more vegetation and more housing. In both cases, you’ll enjoy magnificent volcanic scenery!
In December, we spent a week in Tenerife as a family in the Canary Islands. Our aim was to go hiking with the children because we really love it! Titpuce and Ticoeur are real little hikers who are already used to walking a lot. They manage really quite well for their age (9 and 12), so I’ll specify the level of our hikes in the details of the article. You’ll see: we chose hikes of very varied levels, so rest assured, there will be something for everyone!
Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands. It is known for its Teide National Park, and it was this vast volcanic area that made us want to go there! Teide is a volcano that is still active and very closely monitored. Fortunately, it is resting at the moment, and has been for more than a century now (unlike the one on La Palma!). Teide is also Spain’s highest mountain, at an altitude of 3,715 metres. You can also read my full article on our week in Tenerife as a family, but to begin with, I wanted to focus on our hikes since that was the main purpose of our trip!
Our 5 family hikes in Tenerife:
As an introduction, I’d like to point out that there are hundreds of possible hikes in Tenerife, so whatever the length of your stay, you’ll find lovely trails to explore. In one week, we had to make choices. We loved our 5 family hikes, and it made us want to go back to do others! In the meantime, I’m sharing the details of our five discoveries… The durations given are our own times, not an average, so they are only indicative. I’ll remind you that we are used to hiking, so if you have less experience, you may need to allow more time.
1/ Samara (Teide National Park) – easy – duration: 1 hr 30 – 250 metres of elevation gain
Samara is clearly a hike for families. We are at the foot of Mount Teide. The landscapes are superb: you can see the volcano, the lava scenery and the famous Canary Island pines. It is a loop. It goes up and down a little throughout the hike, but really nothing too serious, and it’s a good length for children who are not yet used to walking for a long time. The start of the hike is at an altitude of 1,875 metres.
How I longed to return to Italy! My second home! So I organized a stay in Venice as part of our holiday itinerary, after leaving Croatia. We had already been to Venice as a couple, a few years ago. I was delighted to discover Venice with my family: Ticoeur and Titpuce were really charmed and surprised by this city, so different, so atypical, with all its canals and the absence of cars. Magic ! A journey through time and history…
This summer, Venice was less crowded than usual… Effect of the current context, the new bans on large cruise ships and the non-resumption of international tourism. A chance to see this city without the crowds (except at the Rialto where everyone seems to meet). Several times in the morning, we even felt alone in St. Mark’s Square! Not to mention the Doge’s Palace which we had not managed to visit during our previous trip to Venice and in which this time we crossed vast, almost deserted rooms. We will not forget this Venetian break with the children! I would also like to point out that the city was extremely clean, with an impressive work by the garbage collectors who crisscross the streets and canals. No unpleasant smell either! In short, I hope you see Venice as we saw it this summer and of course, I will now detail our little, totally improvised program on site…
Venice for the family: our 10 essentials:
1: The Grand Canal: you might as well start with the Grand Canal as soon as you arrive because it gives an excellent first overview of the city. With our suitcases, we simply took the vaporetto from Piazzale Roma (point of arrival on the island) to get to our accommodation which was located a stone’s throw from St. Mark’s Square. This made us enjoy the whole canal! The journey is not cheap (7.50 euros) but it should be seen as an attraction in itself, like a riverboat ride :-). Free tickets for children under 6 years old. To remember these magnificent views from the water, we also took the vaporetto again at the end of our stay before leaving Venice. During our stay, we crossed the Grand Canal several times at the bridges and we never tire of the changing light… Venice is so beautiful at any time of the day!
Here are the 5 stops between Zadar and Split that we chose during our family road trip in Croatia, along the Dalmatian coast. We had already taken other trips to Croatia, but we hadn’t yet explored this part of the coast – which is nonetheless probably the most famous!
It was in Zadar that our journey through Dalmatia began, along the Croatian coast, all the way to Split. On this 5-stop itinerary from Zadar to Split, our two favourites were Trogir and the island of Hvar. Yes, I’m giving away the suspense already :-).
Overall, what we enjoyed most on our trip to Croatia was the good balance between visiting beautiful towns with a rich cultural heritage and lovely swimming spots, on the coast or on the little islands. As for accommodation, we hadn’t booked anything in advance (except for Zadar). That’s quite a challenge in summer! But we always found something at the last minute.
Time of year: from mid-July to the very beginning of August 2021
Age of our children: 9 (Titpuce) and 11 (Ticoeur).
So here are the 5 stops on our Croatia itinerary…
1 – Zadar as a family
Zadar was the first stop on our Croatia itinerary.
We visited this town, which we found rather pleasant (mid-July). We spent our first night on land there after our week at sea. A stay of one day and one night seems to me the perfect length to visit the old town and walk along the sea at sunset, admiring the Adriatic. We liked the Bruschetta restaurant. The cuisine has certain similarities with Italian food, which Ticoeur and Titpuce certainly didn’t mind!
We climbed to the top of the cathedral bell tower, which you can see in the photo above. The views are pretty good:
In the evening, after wandering through the alleys of the old town, we walked along the seafront promenade like everyone else. At the end of the promenade is the Sea Organ, an installation that “sings” to the rhythm of the waves thanks to 35 pipes located under the water. We were lucky to visit Zadar in July when the town was still quite calm. Nonetheless, at sunset there were plenty of people listening to the Sea Organ and having fun with the lights of the installation! (So probably a spot to avoid in August.)
From Zadar, we hired a sailboat to discover the Kornati islands and other islets located off the coast of Zadar. After a week on the sailboat, we came back to Zadar.
Then we made a detour inland to visit the Plitvice Lakes. An absolute must! A wonder of nature! We spent a night there, then came back to sleep one more night in Zadar before starting our road trip south along the coast, all the way to Split.
For accommodation, I had booked an apartment for 6 because a friend and his son had joined us in Zadar to spend the week on the sailboat with us.
2 – Šibenik on the way:
A beautiful town where we stopped twice. One night on the outward leg of our north-south journey and one night on the way back. There are numerous alleys, squares, stairways and slopes in the old town. So it’s a great opportunity for a lovely walk (leaving the car in the car park). We wandered around St James’s Cathedral and then climbed up to the Kastel (which we didn’t visit). We also walked along the town’s seafront ramparts. The accommodation we found in Šibenik, in the old town, was our favourite of our road trip along the Dalmatian coast.
**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****
Note that Šibenik is the ideal base for those who want to visit Krka National Park. This time, we’d chosen to visit Plitvice Park, so we didn’t combine it with this second park, but Papa Voyage, who went there a few years ago, really liked it.
3 – Our favourite: Trogir
We think Trogir is the prettiest little town on the Dalmatian coast! The medieval part is pedestrianised and has a lot of charm, by day or by night. In the evening, we had a wonderful time on the terrace of the Kristan restaurant (excellent pizzas and calamari!).
We spent a night in Trogir, on the Otok Čiovo peninsula (easier for parking). You walk to the old town by crossing the bridge. Our apartment was okay, nothing more, but clean and practical, a 15-minute walk from the old town. I’ll put the link here, but I think you can find better.
For a swimming break, we drove along Otok Čiovo (the peninsula opposite Trogir) and swam at the last beach (Kava beach):
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The Kaštela Riviera:
Between Trogir and Split, we followed the “Kaštela Riviera” and made two very nice little stops:
The first stop in Kaštel Stari, where we swam and had a coffee:
A second stop in Kaštel Gomilica. It’s tiny but pretty, and apparently it’s one of the filming locations of Game of Thrones. Well, I didn’t watch that series (too violent for me!), so it didn’t mean much to me, but I really enjoyed the break!
4 – A few days in Split as a family:
We settled in Split for several days because Papa Voyage had to work remotely. So I visited the old town on my own with the kids. In Split, compared to the previous stops, there are more sites to visit because the town is bigger: it’s the capital of Dalmatia. In short, for us, who stayed longer, that worked out well. If you’re passing through, I’d recommend staying two nights. Beware, in August it’s crowded! Go for July or an even quieter month.
First of all, we visited the Roman part of Split (a UNESCO World Heritage Site). The heart of the historic part is Diocletian’s Palace, surrounded by fortified walls.
With the kids, we climbed to the top of the bell tower for a lovely view over the town.
For swimming, I took Ticoeur and Titpuce to Firule beach in the morning, and I liked having a coffee at Dvor for the view.
Of our whole trip to Croatia, Split was where we were hottest. Yes, it’s further south, but there was also a heatwave of around 30 degrees. I know it could be worse, but for the “Brits” we’ve become, that’s already a lot. So we enjoyed visiting the cellars of Diocletian’s Palace for their coolness. There’s also part of the underground area with free access, with arts and crafts stalls. We bought some watercolours as a souvenir.
At the end of the day, it was nice to walk up into the Marjan district, through Park Vidilica, which you can see in the background in this photo:
In the park, we sat on a terrace at sunset, admiring the view towards the old town:
Our favourite spots in Split? The ice creams at Ela’s. And also the fish restaurant Duje, which was recommended by our hosts. It’s a restaurant frequented by locals and located outside the old town – not a great setting, but great food!
The view as we left Split by ferry:
5 – The magnificent island of Hvar!
From Split, we booked a ferry to the island of Hvar (to the port of Stari Grad). We bought tickets for the four of us + the car. Many tourists only spend a day on Hvar. In that case, foot-passenger tickets or organised tours are more suitable, but we really recommend staying several days on Hvar (3 nights, for example). The island has so much more to offer than its little main town, where all the day visitors disembark! Hvar has many small coves. It’s perfect for wonderful swims away from the crowds. Clearly a favourite for us! Given the size of the island, and to reach all the coves, you need a car, hence our choice.
The little town of Hvar on Hvar, in the morning, before the excursion boats arrive…
The kind of idyllic, peaceful little coves you’ll find on the island of Hvar:
There are also really cute villages:
The little town of Jelsa:
Right, I’ll give you a few cove names as examples, but just look at the map – they’re all lovely! Zukova Bay, Dubovica Beach (with a nice little beach bar), Piscena Beach, Brizenica Bay. Watch out for sea urchins! Remember to bring water shoes!
As for good places to eat, we had a favourite on Hvar: the restaurant Konoba Santa Marija (in Dol), where we had dinner several times. It’s a farm located inland (you need a car). The setting was super pleasant and we ate very well. As for accommodation, we were in the north-east, near Stari Grad, a pleasant town that’s less touristy than Hvar.
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For the return journey, we went back up the same route, from Split to Zadar, more quickly, sleeping one more night in Šibenik.
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Road trip in Croatia: practical information
Transport: we had our own vehicle, since we’d reached Croatia by driving through Germany and Austria. For such a long stay, it was clearly the most economical option. And to get from Split to Hvar, we took the ferry (a 2-hour crossing), booking the day before.
Season: since we travelled across July and August, we clearly saw the difference in visitor numbers between the two months! Suddenly, at the start of August, there were lots of tourists! Especially in Split! So we’d advise you to go in July. As for the weather, we had ideal conditions, around 30 degrees but no more. No heatwave. Of course, that’s a bit down to luck. We were lucky.
Travel guide: we had the French Guide Evasion Croatia.
At the end of August, we set off to discover the Aosta Valley in the Italian Alps. I love exploring Italy, the country of my origins. I only knew the Aosta Valley in its snowy version, as we had skied near La Thuile on the French border during our ski week in La Rosière. This time, we discovered the Aosta Valley in summer — the perfect opportunity for some wonderful family hikes!
Even though this region is just a stone’s throw from the French Alps, it offered us a real change of scenery. The mountain landscapes are different — as are the villages and, of course, the food! All along the valley, we spotted many small hilltop castles, typical Valdostan constructions from the Middle Ages, and we even travelled back to Roman times through the ancient remains in Aosta, the region’s capital (which, by the way, offers much more than just its famous ham!).
For us, the aim of this holiday was to go hiking with the children (Ticoeur almost 11 years old and Titpuce 8 and a half). I should mention that they are used to hiking and are happy to walk — especially when it’s not too easy! 🙂 We went on hikes of very different levels, and here are all the details.