Maman Voyage: all our family travel articles

4 days in Marrakech and the surrounding area

I have just spent another 4 days in Marrakech, a city I had already visited a few years ago. When I arrived there, I first had a few hours of grey weather, but fortunately the Moroccan winter sun soon came out. What a pleasure it was to see again the pink of the city, the blue of Jardin Majorelle, the ochre of the desert and the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains shining in the light.

When I travelled: for this stay in Marrakech, I was there in January and had good weather. The previous time, I had come at the beginning of spring and it was also a very good season for finding sunshine and pleasant temperatures, without the intense heat of summer.

I visited Marrakech with friends and colleagues, so without children, but I fully intend to go back with Ticoeur and Titpuce in the future!

Marrakech and the surrounding area: my 4-day itinerary

4 days, 4 nights

Over 4 days, we spent 3 days in Marrakech and one day on an excursion to the Agafay Desert.

Day 1: arrival in Marrakech at the end of the morning. Visit to the medina and its souks, visit to the Ben Youssef Madrasa, walk in the palm grove – night in Marrakech.
Day 2: more time in the souks, then visit to Bahia Palace and El Badi Palace – night in Marrakech.
Day 3: day trip at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, towards the Agafay Desert (last time, I went to Essaouira for the day. I will tell you about both options) – night in Marrakech.
Day 4: visit to the tanners’ quarter, Jardin Majorelle and a sunset walk around the Menara basin – night in Marrakech.
Departure: early morning departure.

The must-see sights in Marrakech

The medina, the souks and Jemaa el-Fna square

In the souks, there is so much to take in: local colours, flavours and crafts everywhere. There are also less picturesque stalls selling counterfeit clothes or shoes! On my previous visit, my only downside had been how pushy the shopkeepers were in the souk (given that we were two women, that probably did not help). This time, everyone was very pleasant and I was able to bargain for my babouches in a friendly atmosphere, without feeling harassed.

Almost everywhere, we came across orange sellers: oranges are so good in Morocco! There are also many stalls selling absolutely delicious orange juice. Behind this seller, you can see the pink wall surrounding the medina.

There is a very beautiful fountain at the Ensemble Artisanal, where you will find a concentration of shops.

The elegant minaret of the Koutoubia stands proudly in the medina. The decoration is different on each facade. The inside cannot be visited.

The tanners in Marrakech

We had trouble finding the tanners’ quarter in the far north of the medina, and we had to dodge quite a few unpleasant people asking us for money to take us there on foot. But in the end, by focusing on the map in our guidebook and thanks to a few friendly passers-by, we got there!

In the evening, the heart of the action in the medina is the famous Jemaa el-Fna square, which offers an incredible change of scene! We really enjoyed watching the crowds gradually arrive at sunset. Once night fell, we walked around the food stalls to choose a few Moroccan snacks to eat there: fish, merguez, piles of snails and orange juice… there is plenty of choice! Then the crowd became too oppressive for us and we went back to the hotel.

Jardin Majorelle

I wanted to see Jardin Majorelle again, as I had such a wonderful memory of it from my first trip to Marrakech. This garden brings a touch of blue to an ochre and pink Moroccan landscape. This blue is the famous “Majorelle blue”, named after its creator, the French painter Jacques Majorelle (1886-1962). His entirely blue villa is a must-see in Marrakech, and the exotic plants in the garden create a wonderfully different setting, while the fountains and pools add a romantic note. After Majorelle’s death, the house and garden were abandoned, until Yves Saint Laurent bought them and restored all their charm, turning the property into his second home and a retreat between collections.

On a weekday in January, there were not many people, but be careful: during school holidays, it is better to book your tickets on the Jardin Majorelle website and expect large crowds.

Bahia Palace

This palace was one of my favourite visits and is the best-preserved palace in Marrakech. It was the former residence of the vizier Ba Ahmed. The architecture and decorations are full of charm: Italian marble, delicate mosaics and the splendour of the colourful ceiling in the council room.

El Badi Palace

We really liked the calm of these orange-walled ruins, where only storks live. We visited this palace just before closing time. There were few people. It was very pleasant.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

We visited this former Quranic school with its refined Arab-Andalusian architecture and decorations.

We also visited the Saadian Tombs, but they were quite small. I would not necessarily recommend them.

The Menara

At sunset, we loved the calm around the Menara basin. We went there on foot: it is 2 km from the centre, and we came back by taxi.

For next time:

2026 edit: here are two places that were not yet open at the time of my stay in Marrakech and that I would like to discover next time…

Le Jardin Secret: a former 16th-century garden that has been restored and opened to the public.
Dar El Bacha, which houses the Museum of Confluences and its collection of art and craftwork in a magnificent Moroccan palace.

Marrakech: my good addresses

Accommodation in Marrakech

This time, I stayed at Club Med La Palmeraie, very pleasant, with very local-style architecture and large spaces crossed by pools, fountains and palm trees. In short, I liked the indoor and outdoor common areas, as well as the excellent buffet. My room was fine, nothing more. This accommodation is located outside the city, in the Palmeraie, so we took taxis in the morning and evening to get around.

The previous time, I stayed in the medina, which I recommend if you want to do everything on foot. There are also many charming riads, such as Riad El Borj, which is beautiful and very well located. However, if you stay in the medina, I still recommend going for a walk in the palm grove.

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A gourmet address

Here is an excellent pastry shop recommended by my Moroccan colleagues: Al Jawda in the Gueliz district, the new town. Apart from going to this pastry shop, I did not visit this modern part of Marrakech.

Excursions from Marrakech

The Agafay Desert with views of the Atlas Mountains

With my colleagues, we went on a 4×4 outing in the Agafay Desert, under bright sunshine, facing the Atlas Mountains. The landscapes were sublime, with views of the snow-covered High Atlas range in January. The Agafay Desert is a “reg”, meaning a rocky desert, not a desert of dunes.

What a contrast to travel through wide sandy spaces while seeing snow on the peaks! It is a little like experiencing summer and winter at the same time! Our excursion was organised by the hotel, but you can find several Agafay Desert outings on GetYourGuide: camel, quad, buggy or 4×4 trips with lunch or dinner included.

After the 4×4 outing, we enjoyed a delicious traditionally cooked tagine, all in the desert setting. A lovely experience!

Essaouira

The previous time, during my first trip to Marrakech with my best friend, we went by bus for the day to visit Essaouira, and we really liked the gentle way of life in this seaside town.

I should warn you, though, that it is tiring as a day trip because the bus journey takes 3 to 4 hours. So we got up very early and returned at sunset. Fortunately, Essaouira is quite a small town. We were not frustrated to spend only a few hours there, but the bus hours did feel long.

So if I go back with the family, I will choose to stay one night there.

***

You can also reread my article about our family trip to Fes when Ticoeur was a baby. Morocco really is a very welcoming and easy destination for a trip with a child. Over there, children are treated like little kings, spoiled and always welcome!

And you? Do you love Morocco?

Portugal with kids : the Algarve and the Lisbon area

We loved our holidays in Portugal with the kids! I wanted the children to be able to enjoy the sea, I was looking for affordable holidays and great weather. That’s why we opted for Portugal, a very family-friendly destination! Another idea I had in my mind was to travel in a campervan. I had looked at the rental offer all over Europe and it’s in Portugal that I found the best prices, so the first week we hired a vintage VW campervan from the 70’s. For the second week, we stayed in a B&B near Sintra, and then we took an apartment in the center of Lisbon for the end of our portuguese roadtrip.

Some friends told me that there would be too many tourists and too much heat in Algarve. Well, it was neither too hot nor too crowded. As for the weather, it was 26 degrees every day. Just perfect! Regarding tourists: yes, the south side of the Algarve is full of tourists but we avoided them by choosing to travel on the west coast, along the ocean. There, except for a few surfers, you’ll see it on my pictures, it’s really quiet! It is more difficult to avoid the crowd in Lisbon and Sintra at some tourist sites but it was ok. In short, the Algarve on the west coast is very good during the Summer Holidays!

General information about our roadtrip in Portugal:

Kids’ ages: 4 years old for my son and 1 and a half for my daughter.

Period: mid-August, at the height of the tourist season and the heat, but as I said, we had 26 degrees every day except our last two days in Lisbon: it was 32.

Duration: 2 weeks. One week in the Algarve and one week in Lisbon and its surroundings

Transport: we flew to Lisbon, then we went from Lisbon to Faro (capital of the Algarve) by train (3 hours). To get around, we had the Volkswagen combi the first week. For the second week, we looked at car rentals but it was too expensive for us. So, we decided to limit our trip around Lisbon and to visit only the surrounding areas easily accessible by train.

Itinerary of our family vacation in Portugal:

1 night in Lisbon : It was the occasion to see again this city that we like a lot.
1 night in Olhão : from Lisbon we travelled by train to Faro where we took our campervan. We stayed in Olhão near Faro in this nice fishing village before leaving for the west coast (night in a campsite in Olhão).
1 night in Sagrès : it is the south-western extremity of Europe! Now the wild coast begins… (wild camping)
1 night in Aljezur : further north on the west side… Lots of beautiful beaches nearby (overnight in a campsite)
1 night à Odeceixe : it is the most northern point of our journey, still on the west coast… (wild camping)
1 night at Amado Beach : magnificent beach! My favorite of our holidays! (wild camping)
1 night in Salema : we are back in the south but in a quiet part of the Algarve (night in a campsite)
1 night in Olhão : because we liked it and it’s just next to Faro where we have to return the VW campervan (night at the campsite)
1 night in Cascais : We take the train from Faro to Lisbon then we go to Cascais, a very pleasant seaside town at 40 minutes (by train) from Lisbon.
3 nights near Sintra : a very charming B&B with a huge swimming pool (La Quinta do Scoto) – visit of the beautiful castles in Sintra
2 nights in Lisbon : walks, museums and a great trip to the oceanarium!

Portugal with kids: a week in Algarve

During our week in the Algarve, we alternated nights in campsites and wild camping near beaches. I would like to point out, however, that officially, wild camping is forbidden – so I warned you…

Here are some pictures of the west coast of Algarve. We loved that coast! Not touristy and so wild! Amazing beaches all along!

Aljezur village:

Odeceixe village:

The most southwestern point of Europe in Sagres:

Our great vintage Volkswagen campervan, alias “Apple”… We hired our campervan from Siesta Campers. We totally recommend them!

So happy at the beach:…

To give you an idea of the beaches in the south, more crowded with tourists but very beautiful and without big waves…

The characteristic cliffs of the region:

Portugal with kids: in the Lisbon area

For our second week in Portugal we visited the Lisbon area.

Here is Cascais, a seaside town near Lisbon…

One of the magnificent estates to visit in Sintra: the Quinta da Regaleira…

Last stop: Lisbon…

Our tips to visit Portugal with kids or babies

Baby equipment :

We just took our baby carrier (Ergobaby) and a buggy. The buggy was not very useful and it was not very easy to drive in the streets of Lisbon (big cobblestones and big differences in level). The car seats were provided with the campervan. The cot for our daughter was also provided by our B&B and apartement. In the campervan, the children slept together on the back seat which became a large bed. We put our daughter in the back behind her brother so she wouldn’t fall out, and to be on the safe side, we put our (soft) suitcases at the foot of the bed in case…

Places to eat and places to stay in Portugal:

The restaurant called A Sagrès, in Sagrès: excellent fish restaurant at a real good price!
The fish market in Olhao to buy fish for your BBQ
Our B&B Quinta do Scoto in Meleças, near Sintra (you can book here)
****
When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
****
The restaurant Tala Adega Tipica near the B&B in Meleças near Sintra
The bakery Casa Brasileira for a breakfast in Lisbon (fresh fruit and the homemade pasteis de nata)
The roof top of the Bairro Alto Hotel for a drink with an incredible view over Lisbon.
The restaurant Ponto Final in Lisbon (you go there by boat. Beatiful place and excellent fish!)

Why we think it’s great to visit Portugal with a baby or young kids:

The west side of the Algarve is famous for surfing so yes there are waves but it is still very suitable for young children as on the beaches the waves have allowed the formation of “paddling pools” where children have maximum water up to their knees. In addition, at several beaches there are river arms which reach the sea and where it is therefore possible to swim without waves. Families usually land along the river while surfers are on the ocean side, but both are within a few meters of each other so it’s very convenient!
Our kids loved eating sardines 😉
The children’s favourite outing in Lisbon was to the oceanarium, not to be missed!
The town of Cascais near Lisbon is very pleasant with children: large park and seaside.
You can find nappies, milk and potties in the supermarket (note: there is little choice for salty potties).
Our son loved travelling in our VW campervan as for him, we travelled in Fillmore, one of the characters from the movie Cars!
Portuguese people were so welcoming!

The only negative point:

Walking the streets of Lisbon with children is exhausting! Cobblestones, sloping streets and crowded trams. Plus, it was too hot.

What about you? Are you tempted to spend some family holidays in Portugal?

2 days in Lisbon with our teenagersRevisit Lisbon as a family with teenagers : our discoveries over 2 days

One week in Puglia with the family

We have just spent a week travelling around Puglia as a family, in southern Italy. You know: it is the heel of the boot! I already love Italy, but this region of the Mezzogiorno completely won me over. It was a real favourite!

In my opinion, Puglia is one of the most beautiful destinations in southern Europe. There is a wonderful variety of scenery and architecture: very old villages, trulli, Baroque buildings and coastal villages that evoke Greece or Morocco. Add centuries-old olive trees, a superb Adriatic coastline with turquoise water and delicious food, and it is a dream destination!

We toured the Puglia region and also made a detour into neighbouring Basilicata to visit Matera. I would recommend visiting Puglia as a family to everyone, even with a baby or young children, because travelling there is genuinely easy.

Ticoeur’s age: three and a half
Titpuce’s age: one

When we travelled: mid-April, to enjoy the pleasant spring temperatures. It was between 16 and 25°C. Our first day was grey, followed by glorious sunshine. I could almost have gone swimming!

Length of the trip: one week

Puglia with the family: our itinerary

2 nights in Matera:

A magnificent ancient city whose Sassi and rock churches are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This detour into Basilicata was a real highlight and is an absolute must! [Update: a spectacular scene from the James Bond film No Time to Die was filmed in Matera!]

2 nights in Cisternino

We stayed in a trullo, one of the delightful little houses that are typical of Puglia (see our accommodation recommendations below).

Conical stone roofs of trulli in Alberobello

We used Cisternino as a base for visiting the following villages:

Alberobello: very touristy, but magnificent and unmissable!
Locorotondo: superb!
Martina Franca
Ostuni

White façades around a square in Cisternino — Locorotondo

1 night in Lecce, the Baroque city

Baroque church and square in Lecce, Puglia — Lecce

From Lecce, we drove around the peninsula and along its beautiful Adriatic coast. The loveliest stretch runs from Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca, at the very tip of the heel in the subregion known as Salento. This is where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet: coves, headlands, inlets and cliffs make this coastline wonderfully charming.

Stone watchtower on Puglia's Adriatic coast

We continued as far as the tiny fortified island town of Gallipoli. It is also known as “Little Venice”, although I could not really see the resemblance. I would have called it “Little Saint-Malo” instead. In any case, it is an essential stop!

Clear-water beach beside a white Puglian town — Gallipoli

Blue boats floating in a Puglian cove — Gallipoli

1 night in Polignano a Mare

This delightful village is perched on a cliff to the south of Bari.

Square in Polignano a Mare lit up at dusk — Polignano a Mare

The following day, we visited Trani before setting off for the Gargano.

Trani Cathedral jutting into the Adriatic Sea — Trani

2 nights in the Gargano, in Vico del Gargano:

In the Gargano, we discovered picturesque fishing villages, beautiful beaches and forests.

We visited the villages of Peschici and Vieste.

The Gargano is very wild and unspoilt. It is beautiful, but this part of the trip adds a lot of driving, and the winding roads were difficult for our children because they became travel-sick. One week is therefore too short to make the most of the Gargano’s beauty. Looking back, I would add one night in Lecce and one night in Polignano to my original itinerary instead.

Puglia with the family: our favourite places

Our favourite accommodation in Puglia:

We loved staying at the B&B I Sette Coni, where we slept in a genuine trullo. It was utterly charming, and the owner was lovely.

Our trullo was just as enchanting at night. We had a wonderful view of the moon and an incredible number of stars. It was truly magical!

Our accommodation in Matera:

Casa Vetere in Matera: an apartment built entirely from stone in the heart of the old town.

Restaurants where we ate particularly well:

The food in Puglia is incredible! For me, it is among the best in Italy – perhaps tied with Sicilian cuisine (you can read my article about our road trip around Sicily).

La Trattoria di Nonna Tetti in Lecce (Piazzetta Regina Maria): authentic regional cooking in a traditional setting, at what were very reasonable prices when we visited.
L’Osteria dei Mulini in Polignano a Mare: very refined food! Try the excellent octopus carpaccio.
Il Terrazzino in Matera: it may be touristy, but we ate extremely well and it was very inexpensive at the time. For example, a pizza cost €4 and a plate of delicious olive-leaf-shaped pasta cost €6. The restaurant also enjoys a lovely location in the old town.

Puglia with the family: practical information

Getting there: for our trip, we booked return flights from Paris to Bari with EasyJet for about €100 per person. At the time, Titpuce flew free of charge and we only had to pay the airport taxes for a child under two. EasyJet also allowed us to put two additional items for each baby in the hold free of charge, such as a pushchair, travel cot or car seat, which was extremely useful. As fares and policies can change, check the airline’s current conditions before booking.

Car hire: once there, we hired a car at Bari Airport, a Fiat Punto, for €23 per day at the time of our trip.

What is the best season for visiting Puglia? We went in April and it was perfect! There were very few tourists, although the sea was still too cold. If you would like to swim, I recommend June, July or September. Late July to mid-August is high season, and there are undoubtedly more visitors in summer.

Baby equipment: we brought our travel cot for Titpuce because we had not specifically looked for accommodation that provided one. For walks, we carried Titpuce in the Ergobaby, while Ticoeur walked without any difficulty. This meant we managed not to bring too much luggage: each adult had just one cabin suitcase, and Ticoeur carried a small bag for his games.

Should you choose a single base for visiting Puglia? I am often asked this question, and yes, I think it is a good idea when travelling with a baby or young children. I would suggest staying in the trullo near Cisternino where we stayed, or in another village known for its trulli. You can then explore Puglia on day trips while leaving out the Gargano. It is a less tiring option with young children.

Olive grove in Puglia in spring — Olive trees everywhere along the roads!

Puglia with young children

The advantages:

Ticoeur tested and approved every playground in Puglia!
He happily walked everywhere because the old villages felt like an adventure, with their steps, passageways, tunnels and little bridges.
Ticoeur enjoyed visiting the Castellana caves.
The historic centres are pedestrianised or have very limited traffic, making them pleasant places for a family stroll.
The children loved our stops on the coast, where they could play in the sand and paddle in the sea.
Ticoeur and Titpuce loved Italian food!
Highchairs were often available in restaurants.
The driving stages are short, ranging from 15 minutes to about two hours at most. We generally timed the two-hour journeys to coincide with nap time.

The disadvantages:

As I mentioned earlier, the only real drawback was driving through the Gargano. The children became travel-sick because this wild part of Puglia has nothing but winding mountain roads.
I have mentioned this before too: I was not impressed by the range of baby food jars in Italy, as they contained a lot of meat and very few vegetables. We therefore brought a few ready-made meals from France for Titpuce and also gave her some of our food – she loves pasta! Yoghurt, cheese, fruit purée and growing-up milk are all readily available, just as they are at home.

How about you? Would you like to visit Puglia as a family?

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Reader comment from the French article

Originally written in French, translated here.

Back from Puglia, I can confirm that the I Sette Coni gîte is a magnificent place: the garden is very pretty, with its pelargoniums, olive trees, prickly pears and lavender. There are even two swings, a little tree house and, in the neighbouring meadow, a mare and her foal, Masha. The owners are extremely kind: they gave us a very warm welcome and even offered us bottles of wine! We loved the Puglia region and I can’t wait to go back! Thank you Christine for this delightful address!

Agnès, reader comment on the French article

Morocco: our long weekend in Fes and Meknes with a baby

Here is the report from our long weekend in Fes and Meknes with a baby. Morocco, with its colours, scents and warm welcome, turned out to be an ideal destination for finding sunshine and a real change of scene in autumn.

For this short stay, we really wanted to go to Fes, the famous imperial city, which has the largest medina in Morocco and the largest pedestrian area in the world! As I had already visited Marrakech, I wanted to discover another city, quieter and more picturesque, about which I had heard many good things. We can confirm that Fes is a great city to visit as a family! From Fes, we also spent one day and one night in Meknes.

Ticoeur’s age: 14 months
When we travelled: November, during the 11 November long weekend. Weather-wise, it was around 20 degrees and we had bright sunshine.
Duration: 4 days.

Fes and Meknes with a baby: our itinerary

4 days and 4 nights:

Day 1: arrival in Fes, around midday. Exploring the city on foot: the medina and its souks, visit to the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Nejjarine Museum – night in Fes.
Day 2: Fes: more souks, Glaoui Palace, hill of the Merenid Tombs – night in Fes.
Day 3: walk through the tanners’ quarter and visit to the Attarine Madrasa in the morning. Afternoon: head to Meknes, visit the city – night in Meknes.
Day 4: excursion to Volubilis, then back to Meknes for the afternoon and return journey to Fes – night in Fes.
Departure: after breakfast. Flight around midday.

I should mention that, travelling with a baby, we kept a very gentle pace. If you only have 3 nights there, you can easily condense our programme and visit Meknes and Volubilis as a day trip from Fes.

Fes with a baby: our favourite accommodation

For our first 2 nights in Fes, we booked a room at Riad Seffarine, an authentic riad run by locals who welcomed us very warmly. We had a beautiful room on the ground floor, opening onto the richly decorated patio. Between the magnificent setting, the wonderful welcome and the excellent breakfasts, we highly recommend this address!

This is the lovely view over Fes from the riad roof:

The riad overlooks Seffarine Square, where artisans work metal, especially to make the large Moroccan tea trays.

What to see in Fes?

We mostly went on long walks through the huge medina of Fes: a medieval medina listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its maze of little streets and 20 km of ramparts. We added a few visits to our wanderings, detailed below.

The medina and the souks:

The best-known entrance to the medina is Bab Bou Jeloud gate, the Blue Gate, with its arches and magnificent blue patterns.

The medina has two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Sghira, as well as a maze of lanes where it is a pleasure to get lost while discovering the souks, organised by trade: pottery, carpets, babouches, and so on.

Of course we bargained, but it was pleasant and good-natured: I much preferred this souk experience to the one in Marrakech. In fact, compared with Marrakech, I find that the medina of Fes is more beautiful and more authentic. Architecturally, it feels more harmonious, and it is more pleasant because it is pedestrianised. It was a joy simply to observe the life and bustle of Fes.

In the souks, you come across beautiful woodwork and painted decorations:

Madrasas, museum and palaces:

We visited the Bou Inania Madrasa, which dates from the 14th century and was built under the Merenid dynasty. It is the most beautiful madrasa in Fes, with an elegant patio. You can visit the different spaces of this former Quranic school and admire the architecture typical of the Merenid style.

The second well-known madrasa in Fes is the Attarine Madrasa, also richly decorated, with a marble fountain in the middle of the courtyard. Once again, it is a beautiful example of Merenid architecture.

Courtyard of a madrasa in Fez — Attarine Madrasa

We also visited the Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts, in the Nejjarine fondouk. Historically, in the 18th century, the building was one of the largest caravanserais in Fes. Inside, you can see impressive cedarwood balustrades.

Right next door, on Nejjarine Square, there is this beautiful fountain decorated with mosaics:

The gates of the Royal Palace are impressive. So even though the palace itself cannot be visited, you should go and admire its seven golden doors, decorated with zellige tiles and wood, on Place des Alaouites.

Finally, we made a quick visit to Glaoui Palace, which is rather dilapidated, what a shame! It must have been something in its day. There are still some beautiful decorations, but it would need a major renovation to restore all its charm.

The best views over Fes:

To admire the sunset, we went up to the ruins of the Merenid Tombs, where we enjoyed the panoramic view over Fes. It is a superb distant viewpoint and not to be missed, although I do have a preference for the views from the rooftops of riads in the medina, as they feel more immersive, right in the heart of the city’s atmosphere.

The view from our riad was truly incredible! We spent time on the terrace every morning with our Ticoeur:

The tanners’ quarter:

In the tanners’ quarter, what a pleasure for the eyes to see all those bright colours! Chouara Tannery is the largest and most photogenic in the city, but there are many others.

Leather dye vats in the Chouara tannery in Fez — Chouara Tannery, Fes

For next time: we really adopted a slow pace, often stopping for mint tea. We did not have time to visit El Moki Palace, which looked tempting.

Our good addresses in Fes:

Café Clock: a good atmosphere in this medina bar, with excellent milkshakes, delicious fresh mint lemonade, camel burgers (we did not try them!), and live music.

Riad Fes: this is a very chic riad, a Relais & Châteaux, where we only went for a drink in the evening. The room prices are dizzying :-).

Visiting Meknes:

From Fes, we went to visit Meknes by bus. We spent one day and one night there to enjoy the city’s atmosphere properly. It is less spectacular than Fes, but very interesting and pleasant to visit.

Meknes is also an imperial city. It was the capital of Morocco in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Our visits in Meknes

Bab el Mansour gate, entrance to the medina. It is impressive in size and finely decorated.

The medina and its souks: while walking through the streets of the medina, we came across quite a few sheep because locals were preparing for Eid al-Adha. Ticoeur helped them choose a good sheep!
The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail: this religious monument, open to non-Muslims, has a sequence of patios and an elegant ablutions courtyard.

The madrasa: Meknes’ Quranic school, known for its architecture.

At nightfall, we watched the activity on the large el-Hedime Square: it is not as impressive as Jemaa el-Fnaa square in Marrakech, but it was nice.

For next time: we did not have time to visit Dar Jamai Palace, a Hispano-Moorish style palace that has become a music museum.

Our accommodation in Meknes

For our night in Meknes, we slept at Riad d’Or. It was good, but not at the level of our riad in Fes. For another time, I spotted Riad Royal, just next door to ours, which looks like a very good choice, with family rooms and a nicer terrace.

Excursion to Volubilis:

Thirty kilometres north of Meknes, Volubilis is the best-preserved Roman site in North Africa. We enjoyed this archaeological site, which offers a journey within the journey. The mosaics are particularly well preserved. Among the ruins of the site, there is also a Triumphal Arch and the remains of the ancient city, such as the Capitol, the Basilica and the Forum.

We took a taxi from Meknes to Volubilis. Time spent visiting: 1 hr 20 min.

Homestay room for our last night in Fes:

For our last night in Fes, we tried the concept of homestay accommodation and loved it! Most accommodation in Fes consists of riads converted into hotels, with some very beautiful options (ours was superb! See above), but there is also the option of sleeping in a simpler riad inhabited by a local family. Prices are very gentle, and it allows for an authentic experience with a very warm welcome. The best thing is to experience both, as we did: the “riad hotel” for the beauty of the decorations and the “family riad” for the human experience.

The association that manages these homestay accommodations is called Ziyarates Fes. The website brings together all the different guest rooms. We stayed with the Drissi Kaitouni family: lovely people with whom we had a beautiful exchange during a gargantuan breakfast!

Fes and Meknes in Morocco: is it a baby-friendly trip?

Fes and its surroundings are an ideal destination with a baby: Moroccans are completely enchanted by children. They asked us questions about our little star and offered him small sweet gifts, such as gazelle horns, dates, bananas… Our little pasha enjoyed it all! He was also passed into the arms of many kind Moroccan mamas and received hundreds of smiles!

Seeing your child laugh, smile and be amused by what he sees around him: that really is what matters most! Our Ticoeur was very observant during our walks. He was also amused to come across sheep and donkeys in the street, and he enjoyed toddling around the vast courtyards of the riads.

The baby-friendly plus points:

Sunshine when there is none left at home!
Fes is a pedestrian city, so it is pleasant to walk around with a baby.
A wonderful welcome from locals who adore children (as everywhere, of course, but even more so here!)

The baby-friendly downsides:

No high chairs, changing tables, baby cots… or only very rarely.
The crowd in the souks can be a little stressful for a baby at certain times. Favour early morning.
Ticoeur was surprised and worried when he heard the first call from the mosque because we were close to a loudspeaker! We quickly reassured him!

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In conclusion, we really had an excellent weekend in Fes with a baby, under beautiful Moroccan sunshine. Fes was a real favourite, a city full of charm and very pleasant for families!

And you? Do you feel like going to Fes and the surrounding area as a family?

Also read: 4 days in Marrakech and the surrounding area.

Road trip in Scotland with a babyHikes in the Highlands with a baby on a 10-day holiday in Scotland: walks, sightseeing and also city breaks in Edinburgh and…

Road trip in Scotland with a baby

For our very first summer with baby, we chose to spend 10 days in Scotland, to avoid extreme heat, crowded destinations and also to go hiking in the Highlands while baby still wasn’t too heavy! In Scotland, even in August, temperatures were mild and the landscapes were green. For this first family trip to Scotland, we focused on the Highlands, especially Isle of Skye, and, on the city side, we visited Edinburgh and Glasgow. We loved visiting Scotland with baby, and our Ticoeur was an angel throughout this travelling holiday (as always, to be fair!). I hope to show you just how pleasant and easy this destination is, even for new parents. In this article, you’ll discover our itinerary, our favourites and our hikes.

Ticoeur’s age: 11 months Time of year: August (it was about 18 degrees and we only had one rainy day! Phew!) Duration: 10 days

Our 10-day itinerary in Scotland with baby:

We did an itinerant road trip through the Highlands, hiring a car in Edinburgh. The distances between two stops are not long. At most, we drove 3 hours in a day, and Ticoeur used the time to have his nap. Once there, we did short hikes of one or two hours, carrying Ticoeur in the sling. Here are our stops:

Arrival in Glasgow –> heading to Edinburgh
Edinburgh (2 nights)
Glencoe, for the hikes (3 nights)
Isle of Skye (2 nights)
Plockton (1 night)
Crianlarich in Trossachs National Park (1 night)
Glasgow (1 night)
Return to Paris

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Step by step, it looked like this…

Edinburgh: 2 days discovering the Scottish capital

Two days is a little short for discovering Edinburgh, but it gave us a good overview of the atmosphere and beauty of the Scottish capital.

Day 1: We discovered the Old Town around the Royal Mile, the main street, with the charm of its cobbled streets, cathedral and medieval buildings. The whole centre was very lively because the Fringe theatre festival was on.

Day 2: We visited New Town, the part of Edinburgh dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. In Princes Street Gardens, we didn’t miss a stop in front of the Ross Fountain, where there is a playground! Then we went for a bucolic walk in the picturesque Dean Village area along the Water of Leith. After lunch, we climbed Arthur’s Seat, an old volcano overlooking the city. The views are very beautiful! Then we visited Rosslyn Chapel, an iconic location in the book The Da Vinci Code.

2026 edit: I went back to the Scottish capital, so you can find my full article for spending 3 days in Edinburgh. Indeed, if you can, 3 days seems to me the ideal length!

Edinburgh rooftops and landmarks above the trees — Edinburgh, Old Town

Good addresses in Edinburgh:

Globetrotter Inn (youth hostel): tiny but inexpensive room, backpacker style, very beautiful building, very green setting, free shuttle to the city centre.
Café Marlayne: restaurant mixing French and Scottish cuisine. Very good and inventive.
Howies: an institution for trying Scottish cuisine.

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Leaving Edinburgh, we stopped in Stirling, a small historic town nicknamed “the gateway to the Highlands”. Then we drove through Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, stopping to walk up to the Rob Roy viewpoint in Aberfoyle, to stretch our legs. The rest of the route towards Glencoe offers superb panoramas over many “bens”!

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Glencoe: 3 days of short hikes with baby

The climb up the Pap of Glencoe ❤:

It took us two hours to climb to the top of the Pap of Glencoe, carrying Ticoeur in a sling. At the top, we had our picnic break (with a cold baby food jar for Ticoeur), then went back down. Papa Voyage carried baby on the way up and I carried him on the way down. We loved the magnificent landscapes over the mountains and lochs… We went back to the B&B to let baby have his nap!

The next day, we did two short hikes around Glencoe:

Lost Valley:

The climb to the “lost valley” took us 1 hr 30 and, perhaps because of its name, we did get a little lost! The light mist didn’t help. Let’s just say it put us in a lovely mysterious Scottish atmosphere! The trail is 4 km return, with about 300 m of elevation gain (allow around 3 hours for the return trip).

Lochan Trail:

This is a very short, easy walk around Lochan lake, through the forest. 1.6 km – about 45 minutes.

Good addresses in Glencoe:

Kate and Alan Ward – Saint Brides Old Rectory (B&B): very warm welcome, well located near the loch and not far from the hike starting points / North Ballachulish

Lochleven Seafood Café: by far the best restaurant we ate at in Scotland (we ate there 3 evenings in a row!). Delicious seafood at affordable prices and with inventive recipes.

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On the way between Glencoe and the Isle of Skye, we stopped in Fort William to do a few baby-related purchases.

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Isle of Skye with baby: 2 days on our favourite island!

Isle of Skye was the favourite stop of our Scotland road trip! Everything is beautiful on this island! You want to photograph every stone, every cliff, every sea view! Warning: the roads are winding! But fortunately, Scots are very polite and drive very courteously!

Just before Isle of Skye, you first come across the famous Eilean Donan Castle ❤ , one of the most photogenic castles in Scotland! We visited it, but our favourite part was more the exterior.

During our two days on the island, we visited the most beautiful places on Isle of Skye:

Neist Point

This is where the film Breaking the Waves was shot. We walked to the lighthouse.

Quiraing hike ❤

Superb 1 hr 30 hike! Breathtaking scenery! It was our favourite hike!

Kilt Rock

Then we stopped at Kilt Rock, a waterfall that drops into the sea.

Old Man of Storr ❤

This is truly the island’s unmissable hike, to admire the Old Man of Storr, which is a kind of giant menhir. It took us 1 hr 30 for the 5 km (with 340 m of elevation gain).

After this hike, we stopped at Café Arriba in Portree, the island’s pretty little capital. It was good and friendly.

Hike at Talisker

We walked in Talisker Bay, along the cliffs. It is magnificent! After this walk, we tried to visit the famous Talisker whisky distillery, but they don’t accept children.

Accommodation on Isle of Skye:

On Isle of Skye, we spent one night in Dunvegan and one night in Flodigarry.

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Plockton: 1 day

We continued our road trip towards Plockton, located just after leaving the Isle of Skye. It is less spectacular than Isle of Skye, but the seaside landscape is very restful, very beautiful. In short, we really liked the little town of Plockton.

Small boats moored on a loch near Plockton — Plockton

Good addresses in Plockton:

Seafood Shore Restaurant: very good seafood dishes.

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The Trossachs National Park: 1 day

Then we drove back down into Trossachs National Park, passing through Crianlarich. There, we walked along the shores of Loch Lomond and admired Ben Lomond.

Very good dinner at the pub The Village Inn in Arrochar, right next to Loch Lomond. We tried their famous haggis, that slightly unusual Scottish speciality. The fish & chips is very good too.

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Glasgow: 1 day

Our stay in Glasgow was too quick: we only spent one night and one day there, with the programme including: a walk in the West End (a very nice neighbourhood) and a visit to the Burrell Collection in Pollok Park (8,000 works of art from all periods).

On the road between Loch Lomond and Glasgow, don’t miss a detour to this superb natural site, The Devil’s Pulpit but be careful because the descent is not secured and the path could be slippery after rain.

Good addresses in Glasgow:

The Kelvin Hotel West End : very warm family welcome in this small hotel located in a beautiful old house, in a pleasant neighbourhood.
Kember & Jones: for a quality snack in a lovely deli.

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Scotland with baby: practical information

The “baby pros” in Scotland:

a pleasant climate, neither too hot nor too cold in August. Do bring a small rain jacket, cardigan and hat for baby.
a very calm environment, as nature is everywhere and the region is not densely populated
perfect for hikes with baby because you can still carry them (it’s practical when baby is not walking yet)
Ticoeur had no trouble sleeping through the night; he fell asleep in less than a minute as soon as we put him in his bed. The time difference of only one hour was easy to manage.
in all the restaurants, we found high chairs, changing tables… And we often saw a children’s play corner in pubs!

The “baby cons” in Scotland:

you need to protect baby against midges bites (small harmless but unpleasant mosquitoes… use mosquito repellent or products against midges sold locally). We came across a cloud of midges once after a hike. We quickly got back in the car. Also watch out for ticks!
the risk of rain 🙂

Other practical information:

Budget: similar to France
Flight: we took a return Paris-Glasgow flight. Ticoeur slept the whole way, which earned him compliments from the other passengers, so happy not to endure children crying for an hour! We had brought the car seat and the travel cot because with EasyJet (and many airlines), any baby accessory can travel free of charge in the hold.
Car hire: we picked up our hire car at Glasgow airport. Then we had to drive on the left!
ETA: travel authorisation required, in addition to a passport, to enter the United Kingdom. Apply about 3 days before. Cost: £20 per person from 8 April 2026 – valid for 2 years.
Hikes: to find hikes suitable for a trip to Scotland with children (so hikes that are neither too difficult nor too long), I used a very well-designed site -> https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/
Baby equipment: baby sling, car seat and travel cot. Baby food jars and nappies bought locally. Don’t forget sun cream because you are very exposed in the mountains. For hiking, we really found that carrying baby in a sling was very practical and not too tiring.

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On our list for a future trip to Scotland with children:

More islands!: Arran, Jura and Mull really appeal to us for their end-of-the-world feel.
Visit more castles (especially haunted ones!): particularly in the eastern part of Scotland: Ballindalloch Castle, Castle Fraser…
Follow in Harry Potter’s footsteps: after visiting the Harry Potter Studios near London, we also want to see some of the filming locations from the films, such as the Glenfinnan Viaduct and Loch Arkaig.
Edit: we took a second trip to Scotland, one week as a family in the southern Highlands, discovering Oban, the Isle of Kerrera, Kilchurn Castle and Inveraray. That way, you can mix our two trips to Scotland to build the ideal stay that matches your wishes!

And you? Fancy discovering Scotland as a family?

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