This summer, we went back to Copenhagen as a family for a sailing competition for Ticoeur. It was our second time in the Danish capital. The first time, we visited Copenhagen when Ticoeur was only 2 years old! Just a baby! This year, we experienced Copenhagen with two older children (aged 12 and 15). Because of their ages, we didn’t quite have the same sightseeing wishes. So this trip was a mix of places we wanted to revisit and new ones we were keen to discover. Here’s a roundup of our family visits to Copenhagen, 2024 edition!
Copenhagen with kids: 10 ideas for visits
1 – Nyhavn: we never tire of it! It’s the little harbour everyone recognises from photos. With its colourful houses, it’s extremely photogenic. It was the first place we wanted to take the kids. Ticoeur obviously didn’t remember it. Last time, he was in his pushchair. And for Titpuce, it was her first time. Returning to a city years later gives you quite a sense of how time flies – softened, fortunately, by a lovely nostalgia for us happy parents. The facades haven’t changed; only our children have grown a lot! Last time, we took a one-hour cruise from this harbour. It was perfect and family-friendly. Highly recommended.
This summer, we went back as a family to the Bassin d’Arcachon. We absolutely love this area! This wasn’t our first stay on the Bassin, so I felt like sharing a round-up of our favourite spots and child-friendly activities. Depending on the length of your stay, you won’t necessarily manage to do everything. My list is a summary of three stays there. Of course, there are places we happily return to, beaches we particularly enjoy, and oyster huts where we love meeting up with friends. For us, the Bassin d’Arcachon really goes hand in hand with reunions, as several of our friends spend their summers there. It’s a bit like the film Les Petits Mouchoirs, but without the accompanying drama 🙂
This summer, we were based in Le Teich and explored the Bassin d’Arcachon from there. The previous time, we were based in La Teste-de-Buch, and the time before that in Cap-Ferret. Everywhere is great!
Trip to Cap-Ferret:
Cap-Ferret is an unmissable and utterly charming stop! For Papa Voyage, it’s full of childhood memories, as he spent all his summers there. It’s best to go early in the season, and preferably in July rather than August. This year, we were there in the third week of July and it was perfect. Cap-Ferret has something magical about it, as it separates the calm waters of the basin from the ocean: two atmospheres in one place! Such a contrast over just a few metres. We wandered around the lighthouse area and the tip of the peninsula. I must admit that the ocean side always impresses me. We walked in the shade of the pine trees before settling down on the vast and beautiful beach at the Pointe. This time, as we were staying in Le Teich (so in the south of the Bassin), we went by car and drove around the Bassin, but the quicker option is to take a boat between Arcachon and Cap-Ferret. All the information about the shuttle boats here.
The village of L’Herbe:
Once in Cap-Ferret, it’s really worth going as far as the village of L’Herbe, an oyster-farming village full of charm with its old, colourful huts. The edges of the Bassin are particularly lovely here, and the oyster huts all invite you to take an iodised break with a view.
Visiting the lovely town of Arcachon
In high season, Arcachon can be very busy, so it’s best to go early in the morning or in the evening. The half-timbered houses are full of charm, especially the huge villas of the Ville d’Hiver, a district where 19th- and early 20th-century houses with incredible architecture are concentrated. There must have been a competition to see who could build the biggest and most original one! A stroll through the town centre is also a must, ideally ending with a little ice cream. We loved the ice creams from Olala:
Hiking in the Gorafe Desert with the Family was one of the highlights we had in mind for our latest trip to Andalusia. After exploring the main Andalusian cities and the famous white villages on previous visits, we were keen to discover the “desert” side of the region. And as you know us, we love family hikes! So, the famous 24 km hike in the Gorafe Desert seemed like a perfect plan—admittedly a bit of a challenge, but nothing we couldn’t handle.
We based ourselves in Guadix to explore the desert. This town in eastern Andalusia is famous for its cave houses. The village of Gorafe is just a 30-minute drive away, making Guadix a convenient base. Plus, the area around Guadix is full of other stunning desert landscapes to discover, including the Badlands.
Why the Gorafe Desert is so captivating
The Gorafe Desert is full of striking geological formations in shades of ochre and red. It forms part of the Granada Geopark, a UNESCO-recognised site of geological and cultural importance. You’ll see large ravines that might remind you of the American West. In fact, it’s funny—when trying to describe the Gorafe Desert, references to the US keep popping up. Those Americans really are masters of marketing! They’ve planted the image in our minds, while ironically, seeing the western US could just as easily make you think: “Wow, this looks just like the Gorafe Desert!”
If you dream of wide-open spaces, canyons, and real escapism, Andalusia is a must. The Gorafe Desert won’t disappoint—it’s a real favourite of ours.
Gorafe Desert
A quick warning: the renowned Ruta del Desierto de Gorafe leading to LosColoraos is tough—not technically, but because of its length and elevation gain.
Before we went, there was very little information on whether families could tackle this hike. Even without children, it seems few people walk this route. Now that we’ve done it, though, we can confidently say it’s the best way to experience the desert—and we hope this guide helps sporty families who want to give it a go!
Our Family Hike in the Gorafe Desert
Here are the key details of our hike:
24 km loop: it’s long. Children should be used to long walks. We completed it in 6½ hours, including a 30-minute lunch break—so 6 hours of walking in total.
Halfway along, at the furthest point, you reach the famous viewpoint Los Coloraos, where the geological formations are most colourful, with shades reminiscent of a Western movie! Yes, I know—I’m comparing it to the US again! Pfff!
Elevation gain of 753 metres: we’ve tackled this kind of climb in the mountains before, but two things made it tricky here. First, the trail starts by descending into a canyon, meaning the easiest section comes first. By the time you reach Los Coloraos, the hard part is still ahead! Psychologically, this is tougher than summiting a mountain—at least then, the worst is behind you. Second, a 753-metre climb in the Alps on a cool day is one thing, but in southern Spain, it can get hot. We were there in April, a lovely season, but the desert temperature swings quickly. Starting at 9am, it was 13°C, soon climbing to 16°C—perfect. After lunch, we faced the climb back in 24°C heat, which made those 753 metres feel even tougher, especially with little shade.
Trail conditions: there’s no technical difficulty as the path is a 4×4 track. It’s wide, comfortable, and easy to follow. The route is signposted as PR-A 426. In 6½ hours, we only saw one 4×4! These excursions are pricey, so traffic is rare. We also planned to hike on a weekday, in case Granada locals visited at weekends.
If you’re still reading, you’re probably feeling up for it! For children used to hiking, it’s very manageable. This is not a beginner’s hike, nor is it for very young children. Ticoeur and Titpuce were 14 and 12 at the time. More important than age is whether your kids can walk 6 hours with a serious climb. Shall we go?
The Ruta del Desierto Loop via Los Coloraos
We started the Gorafe Desert trail at 9am. To reach the start, drive to the village of Gorafe and follow the signs upwards. We parked at the trailhead, completely alone, next to a large information board. We chose to hike clockwise, but honestly, it doesn’t matter much. The advantage of our direction is that you see the most beautiful and varied landscapes first. If you don’t complete the loop, you can always turn back and you’ll already have seen plenty.
And we’re off!
We soon felt immersed in this exceptional geopark:
The snowy Sierra Nevada looms in the distance…
The landscapes keep changing as we move forward…
Two hours in…
And onwards…
Feels a bit like Colorado, doesn’t it? 🙂
We reach the viewpoint Los Coloraos, halfway through the loop (about 12 km). It’s the most famous viewpoint in the Gorafe Desert—but honestly, the scenery was beautiful all along the way. Even if you tire before reaching it, you’ll have seen incredible views.
Los Coloraos, Gorafe
We stopped for a picnic at noon after three hours of walking, finding some shade in a bend. After lunch, it was time to climb out of the canyon—and it felt hot!
We passed the Barranco de Los Anchurones:
As I mentioned, the climb back is challenging. We spotted a 4×4 camper van struggling on the track, which had large ruts on the second half of the route.
Passing the Cerro de la Bandera:
We continued to climb, slowly but surely, discovering more stunning formations in lighter shades:
We were almost done when we spotted the glass house (a hotel) at the start of the hike. Fun fact: this house appears in an episode of Black Mirror. I’ve watched many episodes of this TV series, but I hadn’t seen this particular one.
The final stretch winds through an almond orchard:
Back at the car, we hadn’t encountered any other hikers—the car was still alone. We’d brought plenty of water, which we drank during the second half of the hike! Exhausted and thirsty, we returned to Gorafe village and ordered two drinks each at the first bar we found. As I mentioned earlier, 24°C with no shade really feels hot! Everyone was wearing trousers—hiking trousers that convert to shorts would have been ideal for the climb back. And of course, don’t forget hats and sunscreen!
Options for Discovering the Gorafe Desert as a Family if the Hike is Too Challenging
Shorten the hike. This is the best option if 24 km feels too much. Even the first few kilometres are stunning! 2, 3, or 5 km—choose a distance that suits your children and turn back whenever you like. Don’t be disappointed if you don’t reach the Los Coloraos viewpoint—the views are incredible from the very start.
Take a 4×4 tour: I mention this mainly to warn you that you might encounter 4x4s on the trail, as it doubles as a track. Personally, I don’t recommend it. Walking allows you to really absorb the scenery. Plus, we hope hikers won’t see more than one 4×4 like we did—luckily, we only saw one! These tours are expensive anyway, which keeps traffic low.
Drive to the Los Coloraos viewpoint: With a normal car, you can do the first half of the loop as an out-and-back. The second half is too rough. But in my opinion, driving is less rewarding than walking. It’s better to do a short hike. Even if the track is decent in the first section, a rental car wouldn’t be covered for damage. Avoid it!
Electric bike: At the end of the hike, we saw a young couple preparing to cycle the loop on e-bikes. Fine for a couple used to rough tracks, but I couldn’t do it! For a family, it’s tricky—even with e-bikes, there’s a big climb and rough terrain. Plus, for four people, rentals would be costly.
In short, adjust the hike to your fitness, motivation, and family hiking experience. Bring plenty of water and soak in the views!
Our Guadix Accommodation: a Charming Cave House
Gorafe is an hour east of Granada, so it’s possible to visit from the city. But for a 24 km hike, staying closer makes sense. Gorafe village has some lovely cave accommodations, but they were pricier than in Guadix, a small town 30 minutes away. So, we compromised. We stayed in Guadix for two nights at this wonderful cave house. We loved it—highly recommended!
****
When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
****
The accommodation is in Guadix’s cave house district, on the outskirts of town—a very typical area. Our cave house was comfortable, with a kitchen, bathroom, two bedrooms, a small courtyard, barbecue, and even a tiny pool (water too cold in April!). Highly recommended.
Here’s the cave district. Not long ago, it was mainly inhabited by Romani people. Today, there are some locals and several tourist accommodations.
This district is different from central Guadix. Approaching the town by road, you first see the modern, less charming part. Then you discover a small, pleasant historic centre where we strolled in the early evening near the cathedral and castle.
For food in Guadix, we recommend the bar-churreria Cafetaria Versalles, serving excellent churros with hot chocolate—perfect before a family hike. It opens early, so we went at 7:30am:
We also enjoyed cooking in our cave house courtyard, but on our last night we tried a local restaurant: Braseria La Tinaja, a large grill-restaurant at the town edge. Very popular, with a friendly waiter, lively atmosphere, generous portions, and excellent value!
***
The Badlands Around Guadix
Another perk of staying in Guadix is being able to enjoy the Badlands landscapes. Guadix is part of the geopark, and the scenery is very similar to Gorafe. Just a few minutes from the town, there are several viewpoints accessible by car. If you haven’t done the full Gorafe Desert hike, you can opt for shorter walks in the Badlands. Here are three viewpoints we visited by car.
First, the viewpoints at Purullena and Marchal, right next to each other, offering beautiful panoramas:
Next, the viewpoint at Beas de Guadix:
Finally, we left the Badlands via a scenic road. Our next destination? Granada!
***
In Conclusion:
I hope I’ve inspired you to explore this corner of southern Spain. The Gorafe Desert and Guadix region offer breathtaking, cinematic landscapes. The Gorafe Desert hike is challenging, but you can always shorten it. Staying in Guadix lets you see a lesser-known, quieter side of Andalusia. Spring seemed ideal for this region—avoid the summer heat.
And if you enjoy family hikes, check out my article on the Caminito del Rey hike in western Andalusia—it’s very easy. Next time we return to Andalusia, we plan to explore another desert: the Tabernas Desert!
***
So, are you tempted by the Gorafe Desert and the Guadix region?
Visiting Camden is very often on the agenda of anyone travelling to London. In particular, if you are in London with your family and have teenagers with you, there is a very good chance that this area will appeal to them! It’s an alternative, offbeat, slightly rock-and-roll neighbourhood – and therefore very cool! The first time I went there, I was 15. It was on a school trip. Camden left a strong impression on me because of its atmosphere and its “underground” style. For those who, like me, knew Camden in the 80s or 90s, I should point out that it has changed quite a bit since then! Camden Market no longer looks like a flea market full of “bad guys”!
Camden Market is now more polished, more touristy, almost “bo-bo” (bourgeois-bohemian)… The market shops have been redone and renovated, and food stalls have taken the place of the old little craft and knick-knack stalls of all kinds. The first time I went back, I was even a little disappointed not to find the old spirit. It’s less quirky, less “a change of scenery”. That said, if it’s your first time in Camden, it’s still a very distinctive area that’s well worth spending a few hours in – especially with pre-teens and teenagers. What’s more, from Camden there is a walk that I really like, along Regent’s Canal. It lets you see a completely different side of London. Very few tourists take the time to walk along the canal from Camden to Little Venice (1 to 1.5 hours on foot). And yet, it’s well worth it! On the way, you can make a detour via Primrose Hill for a lovely distant view over London. Between exploring Camden and the long walk along the canal, you should almost plan a full day (with breaks), or a well-paced long half-day! So? Follow me on this family walk in London, from Camden to Little Venice.
Visiting Camden: the market, its vintage shops and its quirky atmosphere
You arrive in Camden via the “Camden Town” underground station. From there, by taking Camden High Street, you’ll quickly be plunged into the area’s scenery with its decorated façades. As I said above: in the past it was similar, but the paintings weren’t all brand new and the people were more original :-).
Discovering the Caminito del Rey as a family was a truly wonderful experience during our trip to Andalusia with the children. A few years ago, I had already wanted to venture onto this famous Andalusian path, but it was extremely dangerous at the time as it had no safety measures. It was probably the most dangerous via ferrata in the world! But after many years of closure and extensive renovation work, the Caminito del Rey reopened to the public in 2015, now fully secured. There’s no longer any reason to worry. The path is very well laid out and feels solid! We even found it easier and safer than we had imagined! Easier than other via ferratas we’ve done in the Alps.
The “King’s Path” gets its name because King Alfonso XIII of Spain walked it in 1921 during the inauguration of the dam. During the construction of the dam and the El Chorro hydroelectric power station, workers tragically fell using this makeshift and unsafe route. In the years that followed, bold hikers occasionally ventured onto this abandoned caminito, leading to some unfortunate accidents. In short, that chapter in the history of the Caminito del Rey is well and truly closed. You can now walk this path with your eyes closed — well, almost! From the new route, you can still glimpse the old one: you’ll see it’s a world of difference!
To plan your family trip to the Caminito del Rey, a bit of forward planning and organisation is definitely needed, so I hope this article provides you with all the useful information for your visit.
***
Caminito del Rey with kids: be aware of the age restrictions!
This is a very important point! Before including the Caminito del Rey in your Andalusia holiday plans, you should know that children under 8 are not allowed on the trail. Children’s ID is checked at the entrance. The rule is strict. In fact, even if your children are over 8, make sure you have their ID with you. It would be a shame to be turned away when your children are the right age. When we visited, Titpuce was 10 and Ticoeur was 12. (more…)
