This summer, we visited Santorini as a family during our trip exploring three Cycladic islands. I had some concerns about Santorini as everyone seems to love it but often finds it too crowded. So, first, we aimed for the start of the school holidays in July and second, we decided not to hire a car. We spent 4 days/3 nights in Santorini, as a family, getting around on foot and by bus. When we made the decision to go “car-free in Santorini”, I struggled to find information about whether getting around on foot and by bus would allow us to fully enjoy the island. I found a few articles by solo or couple travellers who had explored Santorini without a car, but I didn’t find any accounts of family holidays. With kids, I didn’t want logistics to become a nightmare. Anyway, let me remove all suspense right now: visiting Santorini as a family, on foot and by bus is totally doable! We really enjoyed this approach.

Why visit Santorini on foot and by bus?

• Avoid parking issues in touristy areas (especially Oia)
• Reduce pollution on an already natural island which has to deal with a number of cruise ships leaving their engines running 24/7! (Luckily, the number of ships has dropped significantly).
• Save a considerable amount of money: just check car hire prices during school holidays and you’ll see!
• Take your time, get a new perspective, and go off the beaten track.

Hiking along the Caldera, between Fira and Oia

Now, I’d like to share some information that may help you plan a car-free stay in Santorini. Of course, this means you need to walk, enjoy walking, and have children who are old enough to walk (or young enough to be carried). In our family, walking is a true joy, and you know that Ticoeur and Titpuce have long been little adventurers… If you also love walking, then my tips are for you!

On foot and as a family in Santorini:

First, a quick note about the weather: we had around 26°C during our stay in Santorini. So it wasn’t too hot for walking, especially as we had the meltemi blowing (a north wind). Obviously, if it had been hotter, that would have changed our hiking plans, but bear in mind that the Cyclades usually don’t get as hot as the mainland in summer. We’re not fans of extreme heat and were drawn to the Cyclades for their climate. Still, as always with weather, expect the unexpected.

The hike between Oia and Fira:

This was the highlight of our trip! Clearly the must-do experience on the island! Allow 3 hours one way. It was so magical that we did it twice! The first day from Fira, and the second day from Oia to Fira. And it was the kids who asked to do it again! The whole thing is done 100% on foot! We loved it! Along the route, we made a detour to Skaros Rock. It adds a bit of time, but it’s well worth it:

Our other walks:

• From Finikia (the village where we stayed) to Oia: 20 minutes each way. Oia is very quiet in the morning. We went almost every day just after breakfast for a peaceful swim. I was really worried about the crowds in Oia, but it’s only in the late afternoon that tourists arrive en masse to stroll and watch the sunset from the Old Castle. We preferred to go against the flow. For our morning swim, we walked down the 278 steps from the heights of Oia to Amoudi, a little cove where we swam (the water was around 20°C – quite refreshing!). Between the steps and the swim, it was a proper workout! We loved this little morning ritual!

The alleyways of Finikia

Oia

Our swimming spot after walking down all the steps:

Amoudi Bay

Amoudi Bay

• Sunset walk above Finikia, near the church of Profitis Ilias for a panoramic view. No regrets about skipping the crowds in Oia!

• From the village of Megalochori to Red Beach: after a morning hike along the Caldera, we took a bus from the central station in Fira (a grand name for a small station ;-)) hoping to get to Red Beach in the south. We should have taken a bus to Akrotiri but accidentally boarded one that stopped at Megalochori. No worries! This village, which didn’t look that exciting from the road, turned out to be very charming and lively:

  After wandering around Megalochori, we caught another bus towards Akrotiri. To get to Red Beach, the final stretch is on foot. It’s not far. The beach is pretty thanks to the red rock formations. In high season, it must be very crowded as it’s quite narrow. The sea was 22°C when we were there, and not many people were swimming.

Red Beach

• From the village of Megalochori to Pyrgos: after returning from Red Beach, we walked along the roadside to Pyrgos, a lovely hilltop village that we recommend for a stroll. We had a drink at Brusco bar and wrote a few postcards to the grandparents.

Pyrgos

• From Megalochori to the natural arch “The Heart of Santorini”: the next day, we returned to Megalochori, by bus from Fira which we reached on foot from Oia (are you still with me?). After a short stroll and an ice cream in the village, we walked to the natural arch. It’s not a must-see, but it’s a pleasant walk. On the way back, we stopped by the potter “Earth and Water” who gave us a warm welcome and let the children try the pottery wheel.

• From the village of Emporio to Perissa Beach: after our visit to the potter, we took a bus to Emporio, a deserted village when we arrived in the afternoon. After exploring the alleyways, we walked to Perissa Beach (about 30 minutes). It’s a long black-sand beach (7 km) where we strolled before enjoying a drink by the sea. The water was 22°C. Ticoeur and I were fine with that, but we didn’t swim, as we prefer the coves below Oia. We took the bus back to Fira, visited a few art galleries, then another bus to Oia. Then walked back to Finikia.

Emporio

Perissa Beach

By bus and as a family in Santorini:

For some of the outings and walks described above, we started by taking the bus. Here’s some useful info to help you get organised:

• A bus ticket costs €1.60 to €1.80 (in 2022), and children pay from age 7.
• Don’t rely on the posted timetables! Buses seemed to leave when full (which happens quickly, at least in July).
• For reference, here’s the link to the bus company’s website, KTEL. It’ll give you an idea, but don’t trust the times too much.
• Don’t rely on the bus route map either – it’s not accurate. It’s better to ask locals where the bus stops. Just because you’re at a bus stop doesn’t mean it’s actually in use!
• There are often eucalyptus trees at bus stops – great for shade!
• Despite these tips, you’ll still get lost – but that’s a chance to discover new places ;-).
• From the port or airport, there are also buses that take you to Fira first. On arrival, just stay calm – the bus will come when it comes. But when leaving, especially early, consider a taxi for the last leg.
• Fira is the island’s main bus hub. You’ll often have to change buses there to get around. Staying in Fira is convenient for buses, but we chose a quiet little village in the north because we fell in love with the accommodation. So we often changed buses at Fira.
• Most of the other bus passengers were young people, but there were also other families.
• And again: we were in Santorini at the beginning of the school holidays. Later in the season, getting around by bus might be tough (crowded, no seats…). But you know what? It’s not just the buses I wouldn’t recommend at that point – it’s Santorini altogether. Personally, I wouldn’t attempt it in August…

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There you go! I hope this article has inspired you to discover Santorini as a family, on foot and by bus! For a broader view of our adventures in these Greek islands, check out my article: The Cyclades with kids: Santorini, Milos, Sifnos. You’ll find our tips and favourite places to stay and eat!