Here is the story of our stay in Naples with family during the February holidays. This was our last trip to date. We didn’t yet suspect that the following ones were going to skip. However, it was precisely while we were in Naples that northern Italy made headlines because the virus began to spread dangerously in Venice and Milan. At the time, far from imagining what would happen next, we told ourselves that we were damn lucky to have chosen Naples after we had hesitated for a long time with Milan. Our desire for sun and pizza had temporarily saved us :-). When we returned from vacation, the children’s school asked us which region of Italy we were returning from because if we had stayed in the north, we would have had to quarantine ourselves. So I exhaled, relieved, without understanding that the whole world was going to end up in quarantine!

Anyway, after this long introduction, here is my article about our stay in Naples as a family. It was two months ago. I hope that this virtual visit will do you as much good as it did me and that you will keep this article handy for next year perhaps…

In the meantime, I highly recommend the four books in the saga L’Amie Prodigieuse ( L’Amica Geniale ) by Elena Ferrante. This story will immerse you in the life of the working-class neighborhoods of Naples in the 1950s. I read them in Italian which adds to the magic of the text because the alternation of Neapolitan dialect and Italian is a marvel! For me, it’s a personal journey into the Sicily of my childhood and into the stories my father tells me… That said, the people who read it in English also really liked it so I think that in all cases it’s an endearing, realistic and colorful read (only the last volume disappointed me). When visiting Naples, you inevitably pass by certain places described in the book. One more reason to plan a Neapolitan vacation!

The view of the historic center of Naples and Capri in the distance

Naples with family, the program:

I would like to point out that this was our third stay in Naples (once as a couple in 2006 and once as a family in 2013) so we had a clear idea of ​​what we wanted to cover this time. I’ll include notes below on other must-sees that we’ve already done.

Day 1: we arrived the evening before (pizza and sleep!). The next day, for our first full day in Naples, we start by visiting the National Archaeological Museum. There, we like the room with the Pompeii mosaics (what finesse!), the columns, the little secret cabinet (room to discover without the children because there are Roman objects and images olé olé because remember that Pompeii was not a very prude city…). The room of Greek sculptures and the stones of the Farnese part were also interesting. That said, this museum is still not a favorite and above all it is complicated to visit it entirely because certain rooms only open at certain times of the day (check their website before going to choose a time that allows you to access the most beautiful rooms). I find that as a family, it is not essential unless you have time (you can see mosaics in Pompeii and Herculaneum).

Then, we continue with a visit to the Capodimonte Museum : we liked the gardens and the view overlooking the city (the garden and the views are free). By paying, you can visit the interior of the Palace. At the time of our visit, there was a lovely ephemeral exhibition “Napoli, Napoli” on the theme of music and volcanoes. The Palace is huge. Only the royal rooms pleased us for their decorations and paintings. As for paintings, there are normally some known Caravaggio and Titian but they had been loaned.

Leaving the museum, we reach the Rione Sanità (“rione” means “district” in Italian): a district in full rehabilitation, enough to get into the atmosphere of the city. In the past, it was a mafia hideout and it was dangerous to set foot there. Now, there are nice corners, others still dilapidated. Our hosts told us that there was no problem during the day but that it was better to avoid going there at night. The main axis is in any case very pleasant and lively with shops and restaurants. Don’t miss out on tasting the “Fioco di Neve” (see good addresses at the bottom of the article).

In the Rione Sanità, we visited the Catacombs of San Gennaro . The children were captivated by the visit (in French). You should know that visiting these catacombs helps the neighborhood develop. The guides will explain the program to you.

Then, we continued with the Fontanelles Cemetery which fascinated the children even more and us too! It was our host who recommended it to us, telling us that all the children love it! And it’s true! But be warned: it’s gloomy and original at the same time! Bones and skulls of thousands of people who died during epidemics of plague and cholera are piled up in this cave-cemetery. So far, it’s like the Catacombs in Paris. But since then, it has become a place of pilgrimage and pagan rites… People leave wishes, objects, little words there and make small altars… (note: it’s free, it’s a public place – I recommend going there when it’s daylight because it’s in a less safe corner of the Sanità district).

Day 2: Visit to Castel Sant’Elmo which is located in the heights, at the level where we were staying. There are nice views of the city but the fort itself is not very interesting (just a mini art exhibition). Not an essential visit because there are other viewpoints which will offer you beautiful panoramas.

On the other hand, not far away, we continue with the Chartreuse San Martin which is superb! A great visit to include in your trip! The different rooms, the views of the city and finally the cloister. Everything is beautiful!

We then go down on foot through the famous Spanish quarter which was the poor area but in the meantime it is touristy and more developed than a few years ago. Then we arrive in the center. We take a short classic route: Via Toledo , Piazza Plebiscito , via Chiaia , Castel del Ovo , Piazza dei Martiri (where Elena’s shoe shop is located in the book Amica Geniale ). Then, a pleasant stroll on the promenade (Lungomare Caracciolo) enjoying views of Vesuvius.

Visit to the Borbonica tunnel (former cistern which served as a shelter during the war and then as a place to store cars and mobile vehicles). The guided tour (in French – English available) was very interesting. The underground passages are essential to understanding the history of Naples. This tunnel is complementary to a visit to the catacombs. Another possibility is to visit the underground Napoli Sotterranea located next to the San Paolo Maggiore church in the historic center. We visited them in 2006 – it was very good too, maybe even better. Plan for one or the other. Not both because it would repeat itself.

Day 3: direction the San Gaudioso catacombs which we find more interesting and more original than those of San Gennaro. We are captivated by the drawings on the walls and the embedded skulls. We take another tour of the Rione Sanità. The market is lively via Virgini and via Arena della Sanità. We have lunch in a great pizzeria in the neighborhood (see good addresses). We go back down like yesterday through the Spagnolo district and we complete our tour of the center: via Tribunali, then the street with all the sellers of religious figurines (S. Gregorio Armenà) and the pretty via S. Bagio dei Librai. Then we visit the San Severo Chapel where there is a very famous sculpture of Jesus. It is indeed a superb piece of art but the wait and the price of only seeing a sculpture mean that we do not recommend this visit, at least not as a family. We return to the Santa Chiara Cloister that we loved so much during our previous visit to Naples in 2013. The cloister with its enameled columns and orange trees is a marvel! We still fall for a Fuoco di Neve a stone’s throw from the superb Umberto I gallery. Then we took the metro to the superb Toledo station and we passed through the Palazze Reale (only the staircase and the few royal rooms are worth the visit – not essential).

Day 4: We take the train to Herculaneum (15 minutes from Central Station). It is the second most famous site after Pompeii. We had already visited Pompeii in 2006 without the children. We therefore opted for a site that we did not know. Also because it is smaller, denser, with more well-preserved rooms so it seemed perfect for children. We loved it! There are beautiful frescoes and mosaics. Obviously the history of Vesuvius and the drama that played out at the time can only fascinate young and old! If you have never visited Pompeii it is also a must but know that the site is larger so there is a lot of space in ruins…. Let’s say that it is a little more sporty but there are pretty remains and above all you can see the charred bodies (which I didn’t necessarily want to show the children anyway…). In short, one or the other or both sites! In any case, you won’t regret it!

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Our organization for visiting Naples with family: our program was very dense! It must be said that we are early risers. We took off from our accommodation at 9 a.m. in the morning. Also, we did almost everything on foot because we love it! But I would like to point out that it’s very sporty! The city is not flat. Of course, there is public transport if you want to walk less.

The islands opposite Naples: during our previous visits to Naples we went to the island of Capri – which we recommend. It’s very cute. You should avoid the super touristy village with its luxury boutiques. The rest of the island has a lot of charm and it is possible to climb to the top of the island for a superb natural view over the Gulf of Naples. Procida and Ischia are also very beautiful islands but it is better to go there from spring to sleep there (in winter most accommodation and restaurants are closed).

If I had to redo our program in Naples: I would remove the archaeological museum, the San Severo chapel, the Palazzo reale and I would only plan one visit to the Catacombs.

When to visit Naples? We had great weather throughout our stay. We tested Naples in spring, Naples in autumn and therefore Naples in winter this time. We loved all our stays. I would avoid July-August because of the heat and the crowds of tourists all over the Amalfi Coast.

Which villages to visit on the Amalfi Coast? In 2013 we saw Amalfi and Sorrento. Positano and Ravello are the other must-sees that we don’t know yet! Next time! In any case, avoid summer because there are a lot of people and traffic jams!

Good plan: take the Napoli or Campania card

To visit Naples with the family, the 3-day Napoli card or the 3-day Campania card will be very useful: we hesitated for a long time between the two and finally we took the Napoli Card because we were not sure about leaving Naples. However, finally, on the last day, we went to Herculaneum so the Campania Card would have allowed us to have a reduction on this visit (Note: Campania is the name of the region of Italy where Naples is located). With the 3-day Campania Card we would have had to reorganize our program to go to Herculaneum on the 3rd day and not the 4th day otherwise the card would no longer have been valid. Either way, it pays for itself very quickly and is definitely worth it! Here are some tips and details:

• Only buy cards for adults! Because most visits are free for children.
• Collect the real card when arriving in Naples. We had opted for printing at home (as this is recommended on their site) but this caused us problems at two places which required the real card. We therefore advise you to collect the card as soon as you arrive: this is possible at the airport or at the central station.
• Read carefully how it works because to enter the places that interest you for free you have to visit them first (we didn’t understand at first…). Cultural places that you would not visit first will be accessible at reduced prices. The order of your visits is therefore important. In short, you have to organize yourself a little…
• Public transport: with the Napoli Card that we chose, transport is not free (and for children you have to pay too). This suited us because we did almost everything on foot. We took the metro once, the funicular once and the bus once so it was OK budget-wise. With the Campania Card all transport is free.
• To put it simply: take the Napoli Card if you don’t leave Naples. If you plan to visit Pompeii or Herculaneum, take the Campania Card.

Our good addresses in Naples for a stay with children:

Accommodation: we booked a small villa in Vomero via Airbnb. A huge favorite! We chose the Vomero district, in the heights of Naples because it is a quiet and family-friendly area. I would like to point out that it is not central! Previous times we had stayed in the center. We find that the Vomero is ideal for families. And ideal for city views! But it’s further from the tourist attractions, which made it a good idea for us to walk! In short, we will return without hesitation but the address is not for those who want to be in the heart of the city. See how beautiful it is! I often think back to this view we had at breakfast, with Capri right in front of us…

Edit from March 2023: as several readers reported to me, this accommodation is unfortunately no longer present on Airbnb and I have not found it on other platforms. I’ll check from time to time and re-post the link if it reappears. I still recommend the Vomero district. Look for example at this apartment with a view and balcony .

Naples with family: gourmet addresses

• • Chez Popella: pastry shop that invented the delicious Fuoco di Neve ! A treat! The historic store is in the heart of Rione Sanità but there is a small branch in the center next to the Umberto I Gallery. You can also try the baba rum here or elsewhere because it is a Neapolitan specialty!
  • Mennella: for very good ice cream. Several shops in town.
  • Pizzeria Acunzo: very good pizzas in the Vomero district where we were staying (don’t go there on purpose).
  • Pizzeria Concettina: great pizza, the address not to be missed in Rione Sanità.

• Antichi Sapori Partenopei: for a lunch on the terrace at midday in the center.

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I hope you enjoyed this visit to Naples and that one day you will be able to discover this fascinating city!