I’m continuing to show you around London, a city I’ve discovered many times as a family, on my own or as a couple. Today, I wanted to suggest a walk that will keep you busy for a good half day. This itinerary offers a great introduction for a first stay or a rediscovery of the English capital. Typically, it’s THE walk I do when we go to London with friends or family who don’t know the city, but it’s also a walk I love doing as a family, because along the Thames it is largely pedestrianised! So it’s ideal with children!
I suggest walking this route from east to west, from the Tower of London to Big Ben, mostly along the south bank. Of course, you can do the walk the other way round, from west to east, depending on where your accommodation is.
London: a walk along the Thames on the South Bank
By way of introduction, I should say that we’ve done this route many times with our children (with and without a pushchair). It mainly follows the landscaped walkway along the South Bank. For each stage, I’ll give you ideas for visits and good places to eat. I recommend fitting in only one or two visits along this walk. Otherwise, it just won’t fit into one day :-)… As you’ll see, it’s quite a distance in the end, so you need to enjoy walking, plan some breaks and/or take shortcuts (boat, bus or Tube)!
The Tower of London:
It’s a great starting point, to the east, on the north bank. I love the Tower of London from the outside, as well as the views over the Thames towards Tower Bridge and The Shard. I did visit the inside a few years ago and, to be honest, apart from the Crown Jewels and other royal treasures, I wasn’t hugely impressed. The visit is very expensive, so unless you’re an absolute fan, in my opinion it’s not an essential family visit. To see armouries and other magnificent period objects, I had recommended the Wallace Collection, which is free, and for beautiful jewellery there’s a whole section at the Victoria & Albert Museum, also free (for more details see here).
Good foodie spot near the Tower of London: the restaurant Ping Pong offers a Dim Sum menu at very reasonable prices and it’s great for families. The restaurant is located in St Katharine Docks, a small marina that’s also worth exploring.
Tower Bridge:
Let’s cross Tower Bridge to reach the south bank. This is the Southwark area. It’s the perfect spot for souvenir photos and also a good opportunity to clear up some vocabulary: this bridge is called Tower Bridge, not London Bridge as some people think. London Bridge also exists, but it’s very ugly :-)… So don’t make the same mistake as that wealthy American who, in the 1960s, paid a fortune to buy London Bridge thinking he was buying the magnificent Tower Bridge!!! (At least, that’s the legend…). Tower Bridge is a little architectural masterpiece. I’ve never paid to go up to the top of the towers because it’s frankly too expensive and I’m not convinced it’s worth it (there are other views in London). On the other hand, I love crossing it, admiring it from every angle and taking family photos in front of it!
Good foodie spot near Tower Bridge: if you’re in London at the weekend, you can enjoy Maltby Street Market (on Maltby Street), which is less touristy than its big brother Borough Market, also nearby and well worth a visit too (see further down in the article).
The Shard:
It’s the tallest building in London, so the view is unique and different from the other classics… That said, it’s a big budget, so best saved for a clear day. I should also point out that children will probably prefer the London Eye (see below).
HMS Belfast:
On the Thames, at the same level as The Shard, there’s this impressive military ship, and I keep thinking that one day we should try visiting it as a family: does anyone know it? Would you recommend it?
Hay’s Galleria:
Take a look at the architecture of this beautiful gallery housing restaurants and shops.
Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market:
You’ll now pass right by a small, very picturesque cathedral and walk through the famous Borough Market, which is particularly photogenic. That said, the snacks sold at each stall are quite expensive for the quality (in my opinion), and it’s not easy to sit down comfortably as a family, so we usually just walk through the market for the pleasure of the view. For information, when you get here you’re right by London Bridge, which I mentioned earlier.
Good foodie spot near Borough Market: as a family, it’s nice to settle into the pub The Barrowboy & Banker: lovely setting, children welcome, and a simple but very typical pub menu… If you prefer to grab a sandwich at Borough Market, you can just stop by the pub for a beer and an orange juice to give the children a breather.
Shakespeare’s Globe:
This theatre is worth a photo for its period style and thatched roof. Papa Voyage even saw a few plays there (by Shakespeare, of course!) when he was living in London, and he recommends the experience.
Tate Modern:
For us, this is a must! This museum is perfectly suited to a family visit because it’s free (so you can just visit part of it), children enjoy modern art, and there are often large installations on display on the ground floor. Our tip: at Tate Modern there is a fantastic free view over London from the 10th floor of the museum! So why miss out? We go up every time we’re in the area, even when we’re not visiting the museum. In short: if you’re on a small budget, skip The Shard and the London Eye and head to the Tate for an amazing view of London!
Millennium Bridge and St Paul’s Cathedral:
Millennium Bridge is the pedestrian bridge between Tate Modern and St Paul’s Cathedral. It’s very pleasant to cross and allows you to take lovely photos. If you want to visit the cathedral, I suggest doing a return crossing of the bridge. St Paul’s Cathedral is a magnificent building, especially the dome. It’s worth a visit (at least once!), but it’s not cheap… From St Paul’s you’ll notice that everyone is starting to get tired :-). Depending on how much time you have left, you can end the walk here or cross Millennium Bridge again and continue the itinerary on the South Bank (still on the south side of the Thames).
Oxo Tower:
Walk along South Bank and you’ll arrive at the Oxo Tower, London’s Art Deco landmark.
Waterloo Bridge and the London Eye:
Under Waterloo Bridge, you’ll see many second-hand book stalls (Southbank Book Market).
Good address near Embankment Underground station: if you fancy a well-earned break and the weather is nice, you can sit outside after crossing Golden Jubilee Bridge towards Gordon’s Wine Bar. The setting is lovely, the wines are excellent, and children can run around safely near the tables as there’s no traffic. Ideal for a summer aperitif! At this spot, you’ll also find lovely flower beds in the Victoria Embankment Gardens, including beautiful tulips in April. After this break, cross the bridge again to return to the south bank.
London Eye:
Get closer to the London Eye: if the weather is good, it’s genuinely a great experience that children love and that offers beautiful views over London. Compared with The Shard, you’re not as high up, but that also has its advantages as you’re closer to the landmarks. If I had to choose, I’d say the London Eye for a first time and The Shard for a second experience. I went on the London Eye with my Titpuce when she was only two and a half. The advantage is that entry is free for children under 4. Otherwise, it’s one of the more expensive attractions, best treated as a one-off!
Not far from the London Eye, slightly set back in Leake Street, you’ll find the entrance to a large graffiti tunnel: it’s often very lively, and you’ll probably see artists at work.
Covid Memorial:
Let’s head back along the Thames near the London Eye.
Edit 2021: to the west of the London Eye, since 2021, there has been the memorial to those who died from Covid in the UK. It’s a very moving installation, with one small heart for each person who died. The wall is 500 metres long! Families have written the names of their loved ones inside the hearts.
You can now retrace your steps to Westminster Bridge and cross it.
Westminster Bridge and Big Ben:
Ah, Big Ben! Such a symbol! Edit 2023: after long restoration works, it’s looking beautiful again! And it’s chiming!
Parliament:
You can enjoy views of Parliament and take some lovely photos of the building. A visit to Parliament is interesting and full of anecdotes. Recommended with secondary school-aged children. Be aware that it’s not open every day and you need to book.
Westminster Abbey:
Another place steeped in history and a great tourist classic. A few years ago, it was still possible to visit the cloister just behind the abbey for free, but sadly everything is now paid!
Horse Guards Parade: fewer crowds than at Buckingham Palace!
Right next to Westminster, if you still have a bit of energy and if by chance it’s 4pm, it’s time for the changing of the guard with inspection of the troops. This ceremony is much smaller than the main changing of the guard in front of Buckingham Palace, but at least it’s more accessible and children will be happy to see the guards! Note: there is a guard change every hour between 10am and 4pm; it’s just that the 4pm one is more complete. Location: Whitehall, very close to the famous 10 Downing Street.
By boat on the Thames: what are the options?
Walking isn’t your thing? You should know that you can also travel along the Thames by boat and pass all the landmarks I’ve mentioned. You then have two options: either simple river transport or a tourist cruise with commentary (a more expensive option, of course).
With my father (who can’t do long walks), we opted for river transport. We took a boat from Westminster and got off at the Tower of London (you can do it the other way round too). We chose the regular Thames Clippers services (around £7 when paying with an Oyster card). Personally, I didn’t like it because it goes too fast (around 15 minutes to cover the whole route I described) and if you want to take photos, you have to stand outside at the back and it smells of fuel! On the other hand, my father was impressed to see all the landmarks go by, and clearly it wasn’t tiring and suited the fact that we didn’t have much time. In short, an experience I personally wouldn’t repeat because I really prefer walking! As for the tourist cruise option, it might be better than simple river transport… To be seen! Has anyone tried it?
Where to stay in London near the Thames?
I’ve been lucky enough to stay several times along the Thames on business trips, but those were mainly business hotels. Overall, being near the Thames is a great location, but it does come with a price tag. If you still want to choose accommodation near the river, I think the best compromise near the Thames is the Novotel London Tower Bridge: family-friendly, very comfortable and very well located.
Our other ideas for walks in London and the surrounding area:
Each time, it’s a programme for a good half day, or even a full day.
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Even if you don’t follow this entire itinerary along the Thames, I hope it’s given you some ideas for visits and helped you discover places in London you didn’t know yet!
So then—planning a trip to London soon?