Every time I show London to friends or family members who come to visit us in England, I clearly have a favourite itinerary that allows you to see the essentials in central London. This route is a perfect introduction for a first family visit to London, or a great refresher if you already know the English capital well. This walk through central London will keep you busy for a full day at a fairly intense pace. You can also spread it over two days for a more relaxed rhythm, especially if you have young children or children who are not keen walkers. I have done this itinerary several times as a family. It includes stops at places that interest children. Among the stages of this route, there are the great classics as well as some off-the-beaten-track spots. I also share some places to eat. In short, I hope this will help you make the most of central London!
Family itinerary in central London
Big Ben
I like to start at Big Ben, at Westminster underground station (on the District Line, my favourite line). Because Big Ben is the symbol of London, and because it is looking brand new after its restoration. If I plan it well, I aim to arrive just before the clock strikes. I love the sound of Big Ben! Once you are here, you can of course take the opportunity to visit Westminster Abbey or Parliament. Both visits are interesting but expensive. My philosophy for a stay in London is to do only one paid visit as a family and instead focus on all the free places and, above all, on walks that let you really feel the pulse of the British capital. On the other side of the Thames, you will spot the giant wheel of the London Eye.
The Changing of the Guard at Whitehall
From Big Ben, in an 8-minute walk, if you head up Whitehall, you will arrive in front of the Royal Horse Guards.
On the way, you pass by 11 Downing Street, but nowadays you can’t see anything as the street is blocked. When I was a teenager, you could stand right in front of number 11. In short, there’s not much interest there, so instead we stop in front of the Royal Horse Guards to see royal guards without the crowds of Buckingham Palace. Of course, it’s not comparable as it’s smaller and there may only be two guards, but it’s nice and I appreciate that there are fewer people. Children are happy to take photos. And you should know that at 4pm there is even a small changing of the guard.
Trafalgar Square – the National Gallery and the National Portrait Gallery
You then continue up Whitehall to reach the famous Trafalgar Square in 6 minutes. If you have time, you can also make a short detour first: go under the archway where the guards are, cross the large and beautiful courtyard, reach the entrance to St James’s Park and walk along the wide avenue called The Mall.
At the end of the Mall, if you have good eyesight, you will see Buckingham Palace. Most of the time, I stop at this distant view because personally I’m not a fan of the palace, and even less of the crowd waiting for the changing of the guard. I find it adds a lot of walking and fatigue. But of course, do as you wish. I just doubt it will be your best memory of London :-). Let’s get back to Trafalgar Square.
You can take some lovely photos here and climb the steps leading up to the National Gallery for a better view. This museum is free, so don’t hesitate to pop in, even if it’s just to admire a handful of paintings. You will find works by Turner there, among others. Right next to the National Gallery is another free museum, less visited but very interesting: The National Portrait Gallery.
Leicester Square and the film star statues
In 5 to 10 minutes, you will then reach Leicester Square, the square famous for its cinemas. That’s why you’ll see statues of famous big-screen characters all around. For children, I like showing them Mary Poppins and, above all, the most recent statue: Harry Potter on his broomstick!
Leicester Square is also home to the Lego shop. But for me that’s too stressful, and my children have grown out of it. Still, yours might want to pop in. Usually, the London-themed Lego creations are right at the entrance.
There is also the M&Ms shop, but I still don’t quite understand the hype (it’s American, not English, and you have to like it—which I don’t)… And finally, Leicester Square is also home to that American burger chain whose name I won’t even mention because it’s really not my thing! Yet many French visitors love it. If you’re looking for a better-quality, British burger chain, I recommend Honest Burgers. You’ll find them all over London, including in Leicester Square.
Chinatown and the French church
From Leicester Square, you enter Chinatown. I really like London’s Chinatown, which I find cuter than many other Chinatowns. It’s my favourite, and I’ve seen quite a few! I really recommend passing through for the scenery and atmosphere. Streets not to miss: Wardour Street, Lisle Street and Gerrard Street.
There are also plenty of affordable restaurants here. If it’s snack time, I recommend the little cream-filled fish pastries from the bakery “Chinatown Bakery – Tong Tea”. One rather unusual sight is coming across a French Catholic church in this area. It’s slightly set back, between Leicester Square and Lisle Street. This is Notre-Dame-de-France church. A warning: it’s not particularly beautiful, but inside you can see a large mural by Jean Cocteau. In short, it’s a little French nod—not unmissable.
Neal’s Yard
Now I’m taking you to the small passage of Neal’s Yard (8 minutes from Chinatown). On the way, pass by the Palace Theatre, where The Cursed Child is playing (for big Harry Potter fans). The theatre façade is very beautiful.
As for Neal’s Yard, I’m always amazed at how little known this passage is, despite being right in the centre. I’ve shown it to many families who had already been to London before. It’s quick to see, but really lovely with all the colourful façades. If you’re feeling peckish at this point, you can grab a slice of pizza at Homeslice and enjoy it while admiring the little square.
Covent Garden
Careful—we’re entering a very touristy area! From Neal’s Yard, Covent Garden is a 5-minute walk. To be completely honest, I sometimes tell my friends I’ll let them explore Covent Garden without me and meet up later for the rest of the walk. To stroll around peacefully, it’s best to avoid weekends and go in the morning. That said, yes, it’s a must-see, and if it’s your first time in London, I wouldn’t skip it. Originally a market hall, today it’s full of small, modern shops and lovely decorations. When I venture in (out of season and outside weekends), I like to treat myself to a little French indulgence at the café Chez Antoinette in the basement. Do have a look at this lower level—and above all, listen carefully, as there are often very good opera singers. You should also know that you’ll find toilets here. Finally, if you need to recharge an iPhone, there’s an Apple Store around the market hall. Also worth noting: in the Covent Garden area you’ll find the Indian restaurant Dishoom, renowned for its quality. I’ve tried it and it’s much more refined than many of London’s small Indian eateries. It’s more expensive too, but worth it. The downside is that you can’t book, so it’s best to go as early as possible or at lunchtime in low season.
Piccadilly Circus and the Fortnum & Mason shop
Now I’ll bring you back to Leicester Square (8 minutes) via King Street to make a loop. Back at Leicester Square, this time we head west towards the famous Piccadilly Circus (a 4-minute walk from Leicester Square). It’s an iconic square, with its giant screens and the start of London’s major shopping streets.
PAUSE: it has happened that families visiting with us were already tired by the time we reached this point :-). No worries! We sit down on the steps by the Piccadilly Circus statue and let the children vote! For some of you, this may be the end of this intense walk. For the others—shall we continue?
If, like me, you enjoy Fortnum & Mason teas, the shop is not far away, on Piccadilly.
I should also mention that you’ll pass by the large Waterstones bookshop (the biggest branch of this British chain and you’ll find free toilets there too 🙂 ). Continuing along Piccadilly but on the other pavement, you’ll pass the Royal Academy of Arts (there can be interesting exhibitions), and just after that I suggest walking through Burlington Arcade for a taste of British-style luxury, and also to head further north and then reach Regent Street via New Bond Street, in the Mayfair area, famous for its impressive luxury shops.
Regent Street – Oxford Circus – Oxford Street: the shopping kingdom
Among London’s major shopping streets, Regent Street is the most beautiful thanks to the architecture of its buildings and the curve of the avenue. At Christmas, this is where you’ll find the big festive lights. If you have young children, a visit to the toy shop Hamleys will probably be unavoidable.
Shopping option: you may or may not go via Oxford Circus and Oxford Street. I mention it here because it’s very close and you might have some shopping to do. You’ll find the same chains as everywhere else. If you’re there around lunchtime, I recommend the takeaway bagels from Bageltopia.
Personally, I’d skip the shopping option and, after Regent Street, I especially recommend going into just one department store: Liberty, the most beautiful department store in London! It has so much more charm than Harrods (though Harrods does have an impressive food hall). In front of Liberty, you’ll admire its Tudor half-timbered façade and its interior rich in wood panelling.
When leaving Liberty, take the Carnaby Street exit, a pedestrian street also beautifully decorated at Christmas. Kingly Court is just around the corner and well worth a look. Then take Broadwick Street or Beak Street to cross Soho and loop back east.
Soho and the House of MinaLima shop for Harry Potter fans
It takes 10 minutes to reach the MinaLima shop in Soho. You’ll cross a very lively area, full of restaurants and theatres, and above all to delight Harry Potter fans, as MinaLima sells the official illustrations from the films. We’ve bought prints there several times for Ticoeur and Titpuce. Even I, who am not a huge fan, find the drawings very beautiful. The Harry Potter section tends to get smaller each year. MinaLima also sells illustrations from Fantastic Beasts and many other films or animated movies. Now that you’re in Soho, it’s probably already getting late. Take a look at all the musicals in London (many are in Soho or nearby in the centre) – very tempting if expensive.
Tottenham Court Road: end of the day!
Come on, I can tell you’re tired. It’s time to head back and rest! You can take the Underground from Leicester Square, Piccadilly Circus or Oxford Street—or better still! By walking a little further (12 minutes), you can choose Tottenham Court Road station, where you’ll find giant screens known as HERE at Outernet. It’s visually impressive.
The walk through central London ends here for today! For your other days in London, you’ll find all my walking ideas in this article: “London with family: our complete guide!”
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Everyone at their own pace…
It’s obvious that my itinerary can be done in a different order, shortened (especially if your children are very young!) or extended if you’re very sporty! The main idea is to give you a list of everything you shouldn’t miss in the centre. We’ve walked this route many times, so it works well. Ticoeur and Titouce are good walkers, I should point out. Sometimes, with friends, we’ve done the whole route in two parts: the first half on day one and the second part the following day. This leaves time for shopping, meal breaks, a park detour or a visit towards Buckingham Palace. In short, I’ll let you personalise this walk according to your tastes, your children’s ages and your pace!
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Where to stay with family in central London?
London is an expensive city, so I recommend booking well in advance and avoiding the Christmas period, as prices can soar! In general, to save money, I suggest choosing accommodation with a kitchen to reduce your restaurant budget. Here are some examples of apartments located in central London. These are addresses, all with kitchens, shared by readers:
- Museum St Central Soho apartment: a very well-kept apartment in Soho, just above the Covent Garden area. With a large double bed and a small sofa bed for young children (around €250 per night)
- Apartment in Westminster: in a similar style to the previous one, with a double bed and a sofa bed (around €250 per night)
- Another apartment in Westminster: 1.2 km from Big Ben. A large bed and a sofa bed (around €200 per night)
Personally, to pay less and because I prefer to stay slightly away from the hustle and bustle of the very centre, I recommend more residential (and, I think, more charming) neighbourhoods just a few Tube stops from the centre. I’ve shared my recommendations in this article: 7 neighbourhood ideas for where to stay in London.
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Finally, to help you visualise the itinerary I’ve just suggested, here is the map of this route through central London:
So then—who’s coming to London soon? Tempted by this itinerary through central London?