Maman Voyage: all our family travel articles

Which is the best country in Southeast Asia to travel as a family

We have always been big fans of Asia, and when we became parents, Asia was a continent that seemed particularly suitable for our first big family trips, especially to Southeast Asia. Why ? Southeast Asia offers a great change of scenery, rather safe countries, and life there is often very economical. So, for our first trip to Asia with a child, Ticoeur was 18 months old and we went to Malaysia. Since then, we have visited many other Asian countries, which I have spoken to you about on the blog and today I wanted to take stock of all our stays in South-East Asia because a question you asked me often asked by email is: which Asian country do you recommend for a family trip? Here is the fruit of our experience, after having visited almost all the countries of South-East Asia, a large part of which with children:

Vietnam: from north to south, beautiful landscapes to discover…

The +:

Easy to organize your trip in advance or on site.
Cultural change of scenery, colonial architecture, beaches.
Often rooms with 2 large double beds, therefore ideal for 4 people.
Large choice of accommodation for all budgets.
One of my favorite cuisines in Asia (well, it’s very personal…).

THE – :

Cities with very chaotic traffic. Be careful as a pedestrian.
I didn’t like Ho Chi Minh City and I didn’t find Sapa exceptional.

Practical information :

My favorites: Hoi An, Mekong Delta, Hanoi and then there is the Danang region which I would really like to discover / Halong Bay is more suitable for lovers than for families.
The season: from November to April.
Flight times: 11 hours outward / 13 hours return.

My final opinion: An easy trip to manage as a family. Don’t spend too much time in big cities. Travel by plane.

Thailand: a great classic, very popular with families…

The +:

Ease of organizing your trip as a country accustomed to tourism.
We come across many families traveling with children in Thailand.
A change of scenery and pretty islands.
Possibility of traveling by plane at low cost.
Large choice of accommodation for all budgets.

THE – :

Too many tourists on some islands in February.
I recommend avoiding the far north because of malaria.
Personally I didn’t like Chiang Mai.
Of course you have to see Bangkok but don’t stay there long because the city is a bit oppressive with children.

Practical information :

Visits that I recommend: Bangkok, Koh Phi Phi (off season), Koh Lipe, Koh Samui, Koh Tao…
The season: from November to April but possible in summer in the eastern islands.
Flight times: 11:15 hours outward / 12 hours return.

My final opinion: An easy family trip. I would favor the islands, with air travel.

Bali (Indonesia): an island on a human scale with beautiful traditions…

The +:

Cultural change of scenery, rice fields, lush vegetation.
Beauty of the temples, snorkeling, beautiful traditional atmosphere.
An island on a human scale.
Possibility of combining with the Gilis Islands (Lombok).
Very pretty villas or hotels with swimming pools at low budgets.

THE – :

Far too many tourists in the south of the island (Kuta area).
Beautiful beaches but not heavenly.
Be careful if you rent a car. It’s not easy to drive in Bali!

Practical information :

My favorites: Amed, the rice fields in the Munduk region.
The season: from May to September.
Flight hours: No direct flight. Go through Singapore or Kuala Lumpur so allow 16 hours at best.

My final opinion: An easy and very pleasant trip with small distances to cover.

Burma (or Myanmar): a more adventurous trip, for informed travelers…

The +:

The smile of the inhabitants!
The cultural heritage, the rice fields, the traditions more preserved than elsewhere.
The natural beauty of the country.
Not too many tourists.

THE – :

Family tourism not developed (so we found few accommodations with 4 beds).
Very long bus journeys. Difficulty moving around in general.
The beautiful beach area is not easily accessible (road in poor condition or plane rather expensive).

Practical information :

My favorites: Bagan! And then Inle Lake and the small towns around Mandalay.
Season: November to March.
Flight hours: no direct flight. Go through China or Kuala Lumpur, so a 15-hour flight at best, approximately.

My final opinion: I found that it was the least simple country for families in terms of logistics (because of journeys and accommodation). If you go anyway, taking a driver is probably a good idea.

Malaysia: more comfort than elsewhere in Southeast Asia and beautiful islands…

The +:

Multicultural country (Chinese, Indian, Malay, etc.)
Beautiful islands and towns with colonial architecture.
Country richer than the others therefore more modern infrastructure (cars, highways, modern buses, etc.).
Domestic journeys possible by plane at very low prices.
For more adventure, also explore the Borneo part (for the fauna and flora).
Possibility of combining it with a visit to Singapore.
Mmmm the kitchen!

THE – :

We haven’t always found nice accommodations.

Practical information :

My favorites: The Perenhtian Islands and Tioman Island.
The season: from November to March, but depending on the islands, also possible in summer.
Flight hours: approximately 12:30 hours.

My final opinion: A country which offers more comfort than the others, with fewer tourists.

Philippines: so many paradise islands!

Traditional sailing boat on a Philippine beach — We went there without children.

We loved the kindness of the locals, the many paradise islands and the volcanoes.
Easy because English is the official language.
Incredibly beautiful nature. Favorite in the Philippines: Camiguin island.
I would hesitate to go there with young children because of the many Jeepney journeys (not very comfortable and often long). And then, overall it’s very far away unfortunately. Let’s say it’s better to go there as part of a longer trip to this part of the globe…
Flight hours: minimum 16 hours with stopover.

Cambodia: an endearing country but not the most suitable for families…

With Ticoeur, we went to Phnom Penh.
Possible without worries to go to Angkor (and it’s magnificent!).
Really cheap.
For the rest, take a good look at malaria and the state of the roads…
No direct flight. Go through Kuala Lumpur for example.

Laos: nature and serenity but long journeys…

Landscape of a river and forested mountains in Laos — We went there without children.

We loved the kindness of the Laotians and the zenitude of the country.
Less touristy and calmer than other Asian countries. Laos is relaxing!
With children I would hesitate because of the length of bus journeys, on winding roads.
Very economical.
Also pay attention to malaria.
No direct flight. Go through Bangkok for example.

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I especially wanted to focus on Southeast Asia rather than Asia in general but I would still like to make an exception and talk to you about Sri Lanka which, in the same order of magnitude on the budget side, was a big blow of heart for us in Asia and a must in terms of an exotic country to discover with the family!

Sri Lanka: perfect for a first trip to Asia with children…

The +:

Scenic beauty in the tea region, beaches and cultural heritage.
Many animals especially elephants.
Distances not too great (to be done by car with driver and by train).
Nice accommodations a little more expensive than in Southeast Asia.

THE – :

Many beaches in the south-eastern part but not heavenly (unless you have any to recommend to us?). We would like to discover the west coast where it seems that the sea is more beautiful with nice depths.

Practical information :

My favorites: The Ella region, the atmosphere on the beach in Mirissa, Kandy.
The season: from November to March but possible in summer also in the tea region and on the east coast.
Flight hours: approximately 13 hours with stopover.

My final opinion: We loved our trip with children to Sri Lanka for the diversity of landscapes and the ease of logistics. We are thinking of going back. We preferred to manage our journeys at each stage by asking our accommodation to recommend someone to us rather than taking a dedicated driver for the entire trip (for the sake of freedom).

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Finally, without children, we traveled to China, Japan and India. We will happily return to the first two with our darlings. On the other hand, for India I am a little hesitant in terms of health conditions. Maybe in Kerala one day…

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I hope that our experiences traveling in Asia with young children will inspire you and if you already know Asia, I would be curious to know which were your favorite Asian countries for a family trip?

5 ideas for long weekends in Italy

Today I’m sharing with you all my ideas for long weekends in Italy, because it’s truly a country that’s a joy to visit all year round. Especially if, like me, you suffer from the dolce vita syndrome! Whether it’s for the beauty of the cities, the history, the architecture or the gastronomy, there’s no shortage of reasons to head to Italy for a long weekend as a couple or with the family!

Here’s my selection of the Italian cities we preferred:

1 – A long weekend in Venice as a couple or with the family:

It was to celebrate our engagement that we went to Venice for the first time, a few years ago now. I was pleasantly surprised to discover a city even more beautiful than expected! In fact, I’d always told myself that Venice was such a myth that I’d inevitably be disappointed because I’d expect too much. Well, no! Venice turned out to be magical, magnificent, unforgettable: yes, nothing less than that!

In August 2021, we went back to Venice with the family and the city of canals continued to charm us!

A few ingredients for a successful weekend in Venice:

When to visit Venice? Avoid peak periods such as Carnival or Easter. We went to Venice in June. We had bright sunshine; there were people about but not too many, even though we were there during the Biennale. We were also there in August and, surprisingly, it was calm (international tourism hadn’t fully bounced back). Also, in the height of summer, holidaymakers may be looking more for beaches than cities.
Get off the beaten track: if you stick to St Mark’s Square and the surrounding area, you’ll only find tourists and outrageously priced cafés. As soon as you get lost in the maze of little streets, you quickly find yourself away from the crowds. You then discover great little places, intimate wine bars, family-run and affordable trattorias. So you need to walk, walk, walk, without limiting yourself to the usual route that all visitors take. In fact, the first time in Venice, we even chose not to visit the “big monuments”, where entry prices are quite high. There are enough wonders to discover just by strolling, as the city is a living, romantic museum.
Venice in 3–4 days: you can take two or three days to wander around the city. And add a day for a boat trip to Burano, the little island I liked best (Murano impressed me far less). In fact, to make the most of Burano, and if you have the time, you can plan to spend a night in one of the lovely colourful houses. You’ll then get a calmer Burano once the tourists leave at the end of the day.
La Dolce Vita in Venice: have a Spritz at the end of the day by the water or on Campo Santa Margherita, a large square we particularly loved for its very local atmosphere.
Also read: Our 10 must-sees in Venice.

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Colourful houses beside a canal in Burano — Burano

2 – A long weekend in Rome, for travelling through time:

I love Rome, where I went dozens of times as a child. Then we tried Rome with a baby (when Ticoeur was 4 months old) and finally with the whole little family. Find the article about our latest getaway to Rome: 4 days in Rome with the family.

Crossing Rome on foot is a wonderful trip through time. In no other city, as far as I know, do you come so close to the ruins of the past. The remains of the Roman Empire are right there before our eyes, along the street. I also love the city’s many squares, the incredible museums and the Tastevere district.

When to go to Rome? I’ve tried Rome at every time of year. I only advise against late July to late August because it can be far too hot to walk around.
Rome in 3–4 days: you’ll already get a great feel for the city, but you’ll want to come back again and again ;-). Don’t miss the Trevi Fountain, the Roman Forum, Piazza Navona, Piazza Mattei, the Colosseum and a few museums. To optimise your visits, choose the “Roma Pass”, which gives access to transport and several museums at a reduced price (sold at the airport, the station, etc.).
Accommodation: here is a lovely very Italian-style flat, located near the Vatican. You can easily walk to the Tiber and cross over to visit the historic centre or take the metro. Finally, the first time, we stayed in the Monti district, between the Colosseum and the station: see this nicely decorated flat. A practical area for visiting the city.
La Dolce Vita in Rome: to sample the dolce vita, nothing beats lunch on a terrace in Tastevere, a district full of charm.

3 – A long weekend in Ferrara to travel back to the Middle Ages:

Ferrara is a very pretty medieval town located 40 minutes from Bologna airport. The architecture is superb. It’s very pleasant to explore on foot or by bike, discovering the city’s historic buildings. It’s a trip back in time, straight to the 14th century. I could also have suggested a weekend in Bologna, Ferrara’s bigger neighbouring city. I’ll tell you more about Bologna when I get back next week… Ferrara has the advantage of a more intimate setting.

When to go to Ferrara? In spring or early autumn. The region is famous for its thick fog, which you’ll probably see in the evening.
Ferrara in 2 or 3 days: stroll around the old town on foot discovering its historic heritage, and keep one day for a bike ride along the river Po.
La Dolce Vita in Ferrara: dinner in one of the city’s very old restaurants, where you won’t fail to try the pasta specialities with pumpkin and sage.

4 – A long weekend in Florence for art lovers:

Our 2 weeks in northern Sardinia: beach paradise

Oh, how beautiful the beaches of Sardinia are! And there are so many of them! Sardinia was still unknown to us: as half of my family lives in Sicily, we have often opted for the Sicilian option. Over the past few years, we have also got into the habit of going to Corsica regularly, and the Island of Beauty has always delighted us; this year, for once, we tried Sardinia and it turned out to be yet another, very different experience. I will actually write a post comparing Sicily, Sardinia and Corsica for those hesitating between these three Mediterranean destinations. No suspense here: what impressed us most in Sardinia were the beaches, hence this post to share with you the ones we tested and approved last month.

I should point out that I haven’t retouched the photos below. Yes, the colours really are that beautiful, the water that clear, and at times it genuinely looks like the Maldives!

White-sand beach and turquoise sea in Sardinia — Cala Brandichi

To put things back into context in our round-the-world itinerary: we returned from Rio at the beginning of July on a flight to Frankfurt, then took a train to Stuttgart where we picked up my in-laws, before flying the next day to Olbia in Sardinia, the first stop of our little European tour that would round off our Round-the-World trip.

During our 2 weeks in Sardinia, we chose 3 bases from which we explored the area:

Costa Paradiso (in the north) -> I actually recommend our villa, as it was the best accommodation of our Sardinian stay. Edit 2026: unfortunately, this villa is no longer available to rent. Here is a similar one for 8 people.
Bosa (on the west coast) -> our accommodation is no longer available to rent. As an alternative, I suggest this charming address in Bosa: La Locanda di Corte or, as a more budget-friendly option, this house with a swimming pool, 4 km from the town (a car is required).
Posada (on the east coast) -> we stayed at Hotel Sale.

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When you book a hotel or a car following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
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Car hire in Sardinia:

To travel between each location, we rented a car at Olbia Airport: you can compare prices on DiscoverCars.

Discovering the beaches of northern Sardinia:

Beaches near Costa Paradiso:

The cove of Costa Paradiso, accessible via a pleasant path (10 minutes). The walk down is enjoyable as long as you avoid the hottest hours of the day. The children loved swimming in the river arm that flows into this beach.

Sandy cove bordered by rocks near Costa Paradiso — Costa Paradiso beach

Cala Sarraina (very easy access, just a short walk from the car park). A lovely little beach bar.

Sandy beach beside a turquoise Sardinian sea — Cala Sarraina

Lu Litarroni/Naracu Nieddu: several access points are possible. We recommend the one that brings you out near the restaurants/bars, with a small shaded path to reach the beach (10 minutes). Paid parking (2€/hour). A very large white-sand beach. Pleasant bar with a view over the beach. When we were there, there were a bit too many waves for the children.

Path descending towards a scrub-fringed Sardinian beach — Lu Litarroni

Shaded path leading to the sea in Sardinia — Best access path for Lu Litarroni

Beaches near Bosa:

Compoltitu beach: in fact, we tried three beaches near Bosa, but this one was our absolute favourite, so we went there every day and it’s the one we recommend! Note: getting down to it is a bit of a workout, but perfectly doable (allow about 10 minutes). It was Ticoeur and Titpuce’s favourite beach because the sea was very calm and the water deepens very gradually.

Rocky turquoise-water cove near Bosa — Compoltitu (Bosa)

Family seen from behind on a board in clear Sardinian water — Compoltitu (Bosa)

Beaches near Posada:

Long white-sand beach near Posada — Posada beach

Posada beach with mountains on the horizon — Cala Brandichi

Turquoise sea with mountains beyond near Posada — Isuledda (San Teodoro)

Rocky islet seen from a beach near Posada — Porto Taverna

We also visited the following lovely beaches, but liked them less, mainly because they were too crowded: La Cinta and Porto Istana.

Practical information for enjoying the beaches with children:

Bring a parasol, as there is rarely any shade.
We favoured the beach in the morning before 11am and in the afternoon after 4–5pm to avoid the intense heat. What’s more, there are very few people in the morning (note: we were there in mid-July – I imagine there are many more tourists in August).
We made good use of the small kiosks and beach bars, which are cheaper than in France. Ideal for having a coffee and treating the children to ice creams.
As usual, don’t forget hats, water and sun cream.
I don’t know if it was just the beaches we went to, but none of them were supervised :-(. In any case, we never take our eyes off the children.

Pale sandy beach and shallow water in Sardinia — Cala Brandichi

I hope you enjoyed this little overview of the beautiful beaches of northern Sardinia! Don’t hesitate to also check out our itinerary in southern Sardinia.

Perhaps you already know northern Sardinia and its beaches? Any other spots to recommend?

Our one-week family itinerary in southern SardiniaOur 8 day family roadtrip through southern Sardinia

Sicily as a family: 10 days in 3 must-see stopoversSicily with children: Mount Etna, the temples of Agrigento, the Baroque towns and our swims!

Italian trip: our family visit of PugliaTrip with the children in the South of Italy, in Puglia

5 family hikes in the Aosta ValleyItaly : our week in the Aosta Valley with the kids

One week in Lanzarote with childrenDetails and program of our week-long family trip in Lanzarote

10 days in Madeira: our practical guideMadeira with kids: our trip during the Easter holidays

Our week on Lake Lugano

The lakes region had been on my list for a long time: Lago di Lugano, Lago di Como, Lago Maggiore, Lago di Garda and the others… An area I didn’t yet know. At the end of August, we spent a week on the shores of Lake Lugano with the children and the grandparents. Lake Lugano lies on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Our house was on the Swiss side, 6 km from the Italian border, right on the lake. Staying on the border is quite fun because you cross it several times a day depending on the visits you have planned. In the end, we must have spent 50% of the time in Switzerland and 50% in Italy: an Italo-Swiss holiday!

Ticoeur’s age: almost 6
Titpuce’s age: 3 and a half

During this week on Lake Lugano, we organised a day trip to Milan to visit the World Expo, and we spent another day on the shores of Lake Como. Today, I’m presenting the shores of Lake Lugano, as it’s the area we explored the most.

Things to see/do on the shores of Lake Lugano:

the village of Porto Ceresio (Italy): romantic, full of charm, small but very lively. A lovely family atmosphere and a playground that’s ideal for children.

the village of Gandria (Switzerland): a picturesque village with its little lanes and old stone buildings

Monte San Giorgio (Switzerland): a UNESCO-listed site and it really is superb! We first parked by the Brusino Arsizio cable car. A return cable-car ticket costs CHF 20 per adult and CHF 12 for children (prices updated in 2025). Once at the top, we did an easy 1 hr 40 min hike to the Serpiano viewpoint. The children walked well. As usual, they prefer hiking to a stroll around town. The panorama on arrival is breathtaking!

a walk in the Breggia Gorge (Italy): a surprising place, I must say: you come across strange geological formations but also an old disused cement works.

the town of Lugano: a very airy, very clean, very orderly and very wealthy town. I especially liked the lakeside and the park.

the church and the baptistery in Riva San Vitale. The latter is the oldest building in Switzerland!

Morcote bell tower beneath a misty mountain — The Santa Croce church

the train museum in Mendrisio (Switzerland): it’s crazy how many model trains there are in this museum! A huge collection! On the other hand, the rooms are a bit boring… They should make this museum more lively because it has real potential. Ticoeur liked it and, as it was raining, it was handy to take shelter there.

the market in Ponte Tresa (Italy): very lively; it takes place every Thursday. You’ll find very good local products but also lots of uninteresting clothing stalls.
swimming in the lake: nice for adults but not suitable for young children. When you know that Lake Lugano is very deep (almost 300 metres in some places!), it’s intimidating – you think about it… Even with floats or armbands, we weren’t very reassured, so we filled a small inflatable paddling pool by the lake for Ticoeur and Titpuce. For adults, swimming is pleasant because the lake is huge and the view is superb. For my darling, the water is too cold (22°C when we were there). In the villages, there are small beaches, but the water remains deep.

Flowering tree on a lakeside terrace — Our jetty

Sunny promenade beside Lake Lugano — Beach in Porto Ceresio

Apart from our walks around Lake Lugano, we never tired of our terrace, whose view was magical from morning to night…

One week in Lanzarote with children

If you are following us on Instagram, you know that we spent a wonderful week of family holiday in the volcanic setting of Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. Like every summer, we organized a trip with the grandparents. This time, we chose this land of fire that delighted us with its landscapes, its great spaces, its climate, its beaches, its little white villages with cubic houses, with blue or green shutters, not to mention the artistic heritage created by César Manrique. We were based in the centre of the island, in Nazaret, with a dozen of volcanoes in sight. Memorable lunar-like landscapes that will be etched in my memory. During a week, we had time to explore the island deeply. I don’t know the rest of the Canary Islands, so I can’t compare to Tenerife (* not true anymore – update below), Fuerteventura, La Palma, La Gomera, Gran Canaria or even El Hierro, but there is no doubt that Lanzarote is a big crush that I recommend for a trip with the kids, or just as a couples gateway! Finally, I have been delighted to practice my Spanish, especially since we are going back to Spain in a couple of days for the 40h birthday of our friends in Valencia.

Age of Ticoeur: almost 6 years old

Age of Titpuce: 3 years and a half

Cactus in front of a Lanzarote volcano — Winning duo: cactus and volcano!

Lanzarote beach with mountains on the horizon — Playa Grande in Puerto del Carmen

White village among Lanzarote's volcanic mountains — View from our house

Program of the week:

D1: Arrival in Arrecife around 3pm. We get our car then go direction our villa in Nazaret. We enjoy the swimming pool with the view on the volcanoes
D2: Visit of la Cueva de los Verdes, a cave formed by lava. Beach near Orzola. Lunch in Arrieta. Back to the villa: nap and swimming pool.
D3: Craft market of Haria. Visit of la Casa César Manrique. Nap and swimming pool then visit of the César Manrique Trust. End of the day on the beach (Jablillo).

Our roadtrip in Sri Lanka with the children

Hello everyone! I’m back to tell you about our roadtrip in Sri Lanka with the children. We came back last night and with the jet lag I woke up at 5am, so I enjoy this opportunity to give you the details of our Sri Lankan family adventures. Clearly, Sri Lanka is a big crush! We are already thinking about going back there. I thought that this country offered a condensed version of Asia: a change of scenery, tea plantations, rice fields, beaches, temples, cultural sites, all of this without having to travel for many miles! A destination suitable for a family trip! I’m looking forward to share with you the enchantment we felt discovering this amazing country.

Train travelling over the 9 arches in Ella

Age of Ticoeur: 5 years and a half

Age of Titpuce: 3 years (that we celebrated precisely in Sri Lanka!)

Itinerary and good addresses:

Arrival in Colombo at 10.40 pm and departure to Bentota in taxi (about 2h).

Chill Island Villas ❤, very beautiful and charming bed and breakfast, nicely decorated and big swimming pool. Perfect to recover from the journey. We had a big double bedroom with a cot for Ticoeur and Titpuce between us in the huge bed.

Bentota (about 10km away) – 2 nights – to begin softly and rest not far from the sea. Accommodation: Chill Island Villas ❤, very beautiful and charming bed and breakfast, nicely decorated and big swimming pool. Perfect to recover from the journey. We had a big double bedroom with a cot bed for Ticoeur, and Titpuce was between us in the huge bed. Activities: visit of small temples, turtle centre and simply swimming pool! Booking: Chill Island Villas.

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When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
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Sea turtle swimming in Sri Lanka — Turtle centre near Bentota

Villa with a swimming pool in Sri Lanka — Chill Island Villas

Bus (between Bentota and Galle: 1h10) – lunch break in Galle then tuk-tuk (between Galle and Mirissa: 1h)

Mirissa – 1 night – nice ideal beach for children, very quiet, touristic but a nice atmosphere with a great restaurant of grilled fish on the beach by night. Accommodation: Palm Villa, ideally situated on the beach, delicious breakfast with sea view. We had a bedroom with a double bed, a single bed for Ticoeur and a baby bed for Titpuce. Activities: beach, visit of the colonial city of Galle.

Palm-fringed beach in Sri Lanka — Mirissa beach

Guesthouse surrounded by a tropical garden — Palm Villa

tuk-tuk (between Mirissa and Tangalle: 1h30).

Tangalle – 1 night – here, the beaches are wild and deserted, with big waves. Accommodation: Patini Bungalows ❤, with an adorable reception of Séverine and her family. The bungalows are very beautiful and high quality, with terrace. We had a double bedroom with two extra mattresses on the floor. Activities: beach and also an excursion to a stunning temple (Mulkirigala) not touristic although it is pretty extraordinary, like the Dambulla temple.

Wild beach lined with coconut palms — Tangalle beach on my birthday!

Sri Lankan guesthouse with a red veranda — Patini Bungalows

Tuk-tuk (between Tangalle and Udawalawe: 1h30).

Udawalawe – 1 night – only purpose of this step: going on a safari with the children in the National Park of Udawalawe, famous for its many elephants. I will tell you all the details of this safari in a blog post dedicated to it. Accommodation: Superson Guesthouse, very simple but a very nice welcome from the family and our host booked everything for our excursion. We had a bedroom with one double bed and two single beds.

Wild elephant in Yala National Park — Elephant in the National Park of Udawalawe

Lush guesthouse garden in Sri Lanka — Superson’s GH

Car with driver (between Udawalawe and the Morning Mist close to Ella: 2h).

40 min away from Ella (in the middle of nowhere 😉) – 3 nights (and we could have stayed 4): the magic of the tea plantations and the mountains, an exceptional panorama. Accommodation: Morning Mist ❤, not to be missed, for its beautiful location, and the excellent cooking of Pat’. For the family, there is a little individual villa with 2 bedrooms, bathroom and kitchen, so perfect in terms of space. Activities: visit of the neighbouring tea plantation of Amba State (very interesting because it’s a very small plantation which is selling its delicious tea to Fortnum & Mason in London!) Excursion in Ella (hiking at Little Adam’s Peak, waterfalls), and above all bathing in the river, down the Morning Mist and little walks in the plantations.

Farming valley in the Sri Lankan highlands — The Morning Mist

Tuktuk to the station then 1st class train to Haputale (45 min).

Haputale – 1 night – Stroll in a tuktuk until Lipton Seat, wonderful point of view from where Sir Lipton loved to observe his plantations. Simple accommodation but with a beautiful view from the balcony: The Mist Holiday. We had a little bedroom with two double beds.

Tea plantation in the Sri Lankan highlands — On the road to Lipton’s seat

1st class train (Haputale->Kandy : 5h).

Kandy centre – 1 night: we had read rather negative comments about Kandy but we really liked it. A lot of colonial buildings around the lake. Accommodation: Vino Villa (we wanted stay in the Mc Leod or the Queen Hotel but it was full), so, our accommodation didn’t have the charm of the colonial residences but it was comfortable, brand new (a double bedroom and two extra beds). Activities: Temple of the Tooth, botanical garden.

Speckled orchid in Sri Lanka — Botanique Garden of Kandy

Colonial buildings in central Kandy — In the street in Kandy

Tuk-tuk

1h away from Kandy (still in the middle of nowhere 😉) – 2 nights – in the enchanted setting of a tea plantation in the Madulkelle Tea & Eco Lodge ❤, a unique location for a charming break in the middle of our stay. Everything is perfect: amazing swimming pool with a view, the high quality lodges, restaurant diners and the reception. I will detail all this with pictures because this place was so magical! We had a lodge with a double bed, a single bed and an extra mattress. Activities: farniente in front of the plantations, visit of the Hatale plantation (it was very interesting because all of the engines were working), walks.

Pool overlooking the mountains near Kandy — Madulkelle Tea & Eco Lodge

Misty tea plantation in Sri Lanka — Tea Plantation

Tuktuk between Madulkelle Tea Lodge and Sigiriya (4h).

Sigiriya – 3 nights – we chose Sigiriya as a starting point to visit the cultural triangle, which is the zone with the main cultural sites of Sri Lanka. Accommodation: Lakmini Lodge, simple but adorable reception of the landlord who loves children and who is very impressive in terms of efficiency to organize all of your excursions for interesting prices! We had a bedroom with two double beds. This way, we visited : Sigiriya Rock, Dambulla cave, the old city of Polonnaruwa (all of this in tuktuk). Booking: Lakmini Lodge.

Sigiriya Rock rising above the forest — Sigiriya Rock

Buddha statues in the Dambulla caves — Dambulla

Ancient ruins at Polonnaruwa — Polonnaruwa

Stilt house in a tropical garden — Breakfast hut in the Lakmini Lodge

Tuk-tuk to the station of Hanarana then 2^nd class train (until Ragama: 5h) then tuktuk then bus until Negombo (1h).

Negombo – 1 night: this fishermen town is ideally located near the airport so it was perfect for a last night before we left. Accommodation: Green Wood Villa (nothing special but convenient, clean and comfortable + it’s easy to organise your transfer to the airport – however we didn’t see any swimming pool…). A bedroom with a double bed, a single bed and a cot bed.

Traditional boat on a beach at sunset — Sunset in Negombo Beach

Our itinerary in pictures:

From Colombo anti-clockwise…

Practical information:

Season of the trip: February. We had 28-30 degrees and the weather was really nice every day, with a little rain sometimes by the end of the day twice or thrice, and gloomy weather the last two days. Because it was Winter Break, there were a lot of people in some areas.
Duration: 16 days
Plane: around 11h of flight with a call in a Gulf State (Oman for us because we travelled with Oman Air) or a direct flight with Sri Lanka Airlines. The children mostly watched cartoons. They didn’t sleep much, although it was a night flight, because there was too much light.
Jetlag: 4h30 with Paris – Since we arrived late and tired from the trip (no big sleep in the plane) we had no trouble adjusting to local time.
Equipment for children: only the Ergobaby for Titpuce but we didn’t use it much because she walked a lot. A few diapers (that we didn’t use either) and two waterproof protections in case one of them wet the bed (only happened once 😉).
Health: there are few cases of malaria in Sri Lanka, but not in its most severe form. It is recommended to take a treatment in case you stay more than 10 days but, in agreement with our doctor, we didn’t take any medicine. However, I used a mosquito repellent treatment on our clothes and I brought an anti-mosquito adapted for infested tropical areas. We mostly used long sleeves T-shirts and trousers, and of course, you have to be extra careful if you have a fever. Still following the recommendations of our doctor, the children were vaccinated against hepatitis A. Important: you should also check with your doctor before you leave.
Transport: it was the only unknown factor of our trip. Everything else was booked in advance. We improvised on the spot, following the advice of our hosts, or following our intuition. This way, on every step, we organized, with the help of our guest house or hotel the transportation to the next step. As you could read above, we travelled a lot in tuk-tuk. We felt at ease with this mode of transport, that seemed safer, more comfortable than the bus, and half the price of a car with a driver. Once again, you should experience to make your own opinion because I don’t want to say that, concerning security, it was perfect! (no seat belt). Be careful, by the way, if you are renting a car with a driver: if you are to pay a more expensive price, make sure the vehicle you rent has seat belts in the back (it’s not always the case!). Concerning the train, we didn’t make much sense out of the booking system. We had booked our tickets before, on the internet (at a tourist price) because it was said that the trains were overcrowded. But, once on the spot, there were plenty of places! For our last journey, we bought our tickets only a few minutes before we went on the train. In first class, there is air-conditioning and cartoons. In 2nd class, since the windows are opened, the heat is not overwhelming, except when the train stops. Thus, with a baby, I would advise you to travel in 1^st class.
Meal: Mainly, you have to like the chicken curry 😉. The children only ate the rice without the curry so, in restaurants, we ordered fried noodles for them. We loved the fresh fruits and fresh fruit juices! We also all loved the hoopers (some kind of pancakes with coconut milk). We found some sweetened plain yoghurts.
Budget: for information purpose, we spent:
600€ for the round trip flight per person
100€ on the spot per day, for the four of us, consisting of: 50€ on the accommodation + 20€ on transportation + 20€ on meals + 10€ on visits. We would have spent less on accommodations but we chose to focus on charm and comfort; we could have spent less on meals, but mostly we had diners in the bedrooms of our guest houses or hotels for an easier organization; we could have travelled only by bus (but it’s more complicated!). In a world, it could be possible to get to 70€/day (maybe less?). On the other hand, if, like many tourists, you choose to rent a car with a driver for your whole stay, you have to consider a 45€/day budget for this benefit. Finally, if my husband could have had an international driving license delivered, we would have rented a car, in spite of the advice against it (this is a personal choice, I will let you make your own opinion about it).

The « plus side » for the children? Many activities are suitable for children, especially when it’s about seeing animals, but also the beaches and some walks. We came across many families. Some of them even with small babies. I will soon tell you what the children loved!

So, are you tempted by a trip in Sri Lanka?

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4 days in Marrakech and the surrounding area

I have just spent another 4 days in Marrakech, a city I had already visited a few years ago. When I arrived there, I first had a few hours of grey weather, but fortunately the Moroccan winter sun soon came out. What a pleasure it was to see again the pink of the city, the blue of Jardin Majorelle, the ochre of the desert and the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains shining in the light.

When I travelled: for this stay in Marrakech, I was there in January and had good weather. The previous time, I had come at the beginning of spring and it was also a very good season for finding sunshine and pleasant temperatures, without the intense heat of summer.

I visited Marrakech with friends and colleagues, so without children, but I fully intend to go back with Ticoeur and Titpuce in the future!

Marrakech and the surrounding area: my 4-day itinerary

4 days, 4 nights

Over 4 days, we spent 3 days in Marrakech and one day on an excursion to the Agafay Desert.

Day 1: arrival in Marrakech at the end of the morning. Visit to the medina and its souks, visit to the Ben Youssef Madrasa, walk in the palm grove – night in Marrakech.
Day 2: more time in the souks, then visit to Bahia Palace and El Badi Palace – night in Marrakech.
Day 3: day trip at the foot of the Atlas Mountains, towards the Agafay Desert (last time, I went to Essaouira for the day. I will tell you about both options) – night in Marrakech.
Day 4: visit to the tanners’ quarter, Jardin Majorelle and a sunset walk around the Menara basin – night in Marrakech.
Departure: early morning departure.

The must-see sights in Marrakech

The medina, the souks and Jemaa el-Fna square

In the souks, there is so much to take in: local colours, flavours and crafts everywhere. There are also less picturesque stalls selling counterfeit clothes or shoes! On my previous visit, my only downside had been how pushy the shopkeepers were in the souk (given that we were two women, that probably did not help). This time, everyone was very pleasant and I was able to bargain for my babouches in a friendly atmosphere, without feeling harassed.

Almost everywhere, we came across orange sellers: oranges are so good in Morocco! There are also many stalls selling absolutely delicious orange juice. Behind this seller, you can see the pink wall surrounding the medina.

There is a very beautiful fountain at the Ensemble Artisanal, where you will find a concentration of shops.

The elegant minaret of the Koutoubia stands proudly in the medina. The decoration is different on each facade. The inside cannot be visited.

The tanners in Marrakech

We had trouble finding the tanners’ quarter in the far north of the medina, and we had to dodge quite a few unpleasant people asking us for money to take us there on foot. But in the end, by focusing on the map in our guidebook and thanks to a few friendly passers-by, we got there!

In the evening, the heart of the action in the medina is the famous Jemaa el-Fna square, which offers an incredible change of scene! We really enjoyed watching the crowds gradually arrive at sunset. Once night fell, we walked around the food stalls to choose a few Moroccan snacks to eat there: fish, merguez, piles of snails and orange juice… there is plenty of choice! Then the crowd became too oppressive for us and we went back to the hotel.

Jardin Majorelle

I wanted to see Jardin Majorelle again, as I had such a wonderful memory of it from my first trip to Marrakech. This garden brings a touch of blue to an ochre and pink Moroccan landscape. This blue is the famous “Majorelle blue”, named after its creator, the French painter Jacques Majorelle (1886-1962). His entirely blue villa is a must-see in Marrakech, and the exotic plants in the garden create a wonderfully different setting, while the fountains and pools add a romantic note. After Majorelle’s death, the house and garden were abandoned, until Yves Saint Laurent bought them and restored all their charm, turning the property into his second home and a retreat between collections.

On a weekday in January, there were not many people, but be careful: during school holidays, it is better to book your tickets on the Jardin Majorelle website and expect large crowds.

Bahia Palace

This palace was one of my favourite visits and is the best-preserved palace in Marrakech. It was the former residence of the vizier Ba Ahmed. The architecture and decorations are full of charm: Italian marble, delicate mosaics and the splendour of the colourful ceiling in the council room.

El Badi Palace

We really liked the calm of these orange-walled ruins, where only storks live. We visited this palace just before closing time. There were few people. It was very pleasant.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

We visited this former Quranic school with its refined Arab-Andalusian architecture and decorations.

We also visited the Saadian Tombs, but they were quite small. I would not necessarily recommend them.

The Menara

At sunset, we loved the calm around the Menara basin. We went there on foot: it is 2 km from the centre, and we came back by taxi.

For next time:

2026 edit: here are two places that were not yet open at the time of my stay in Marrakech and that I would like to discover next time…

Le Jardin Secret: a former 16th-century garden that has been restored and opened to the public.
Dar El Bacha, which houses the Museum of Confluences and its collection of art and craftwork in a magnificent Moroccan palace.

Marrakech: my good addresses

Accommodation in Marrakech

This time, I stayed at Club Med La Palmeraie, very pleasant, with very local-style architecture and large spaces crossed by pools, fountains and palm trees. In short, I liked the indoor and outdoor common areas, as well as the excellent buffet. My room was fine, nothing more. This accommodation is located outside the city, in the Palmeraie, so we took taxis in the morning and evening to get around.

The previous time, I stayed in the medina, which I recommend if you want to do everything on foot. There are also many charming riads, such as Riad El Borj, which is beautiful and very well located. However, if you stay in the medina, I still recommend going for a walk in the palm grove.

A gourmet address

Here is an excellent pastry shop recommended by my Moroccan colleagues: Al Jawda in the Gueliz district, the new town. Apart from going to this pastry shop, I did not visit this modern part of Marrakech.

Excursions from Marrakech

The Agafay Desert with views of the Atlas Mountains

With my colleagues, we went on a 4×4 outing in the Agafay Desert, under bright sunshine, facing the Atlas Mountains. The landscapes were sublime, with views of the snow-covered High Atlas range in January. The Agafay Desert is a “reg”, meaning a rocky desert, not a desert of dunes.

What a contrast to travel through wide sandy spaces while seeing snow on the peaks! It is a little like experiencing summer and winter at the same time! Our excursion was organised by the hotel, but you can find several Agafay Desert outings on GetYourGuide: camel, quad, buggy or 4×4 trips with lunch or dinner included.

After the 4×4 outing, we enjoyed a delicious traditionally cooked tagine, all in the desert setting. A lovely experience!

Essaouira

The previous time, during my first trip to Marrakech with my best friend, we went by bus for the day to visit Essaouira, and we really liked the gentle way of life in this seaside town.

I should warn you, though, that it is tiring as a day trip because the bus journey takes 3 to 4 hours. So we got up very early and returned at sunset. Fortunately, Essaouira is quite a small town. We were not frustrated to spend only a few hours there, but the bus hours did feel long.

So if I go back with the family, I will choose to stay one night there.

***

You can also reread my article about our family trip to Fes when Ticoeur was a baby. Morocco really is a very welcoming and easy destination for a trip with a child. Over there, children are treated like little kings, spoiled and always welcome!

And you? Do you love Morocco?

Portugal with kids : the Algarve and the Lisbon area

We loved our holidays in Portugal with the kids! I wanted the children to be able to enjoy the sea, I was looking for affordable holidays and great weather. That’s why we opted for Portugal, a very family-friendly destination! Another idea I had in my mind was to travel in a campervan. I had looked at the rental offer all over Europe and it’s in Portugal that I found the best prices, so the first week we hired a vintage VW campervan from the 70’s. For the second week, we stayed in a B&B near Sintra, and then we took an apartment in the center of Lisbon for the end of our portuguese roadtrip.

Some friends told me that there would be too many tourists and too much heat in Algarve. Well, it was neither too hot nor too crowded. As for the weather, it was 26 degrees every day. Just perfect! Regarding tourists: yes, the south side of the Algarve is full of tourists but we avoided them by choosing to travel on the west coast, along the ocean. There, except for a few surfers, you’ll see it on my pictures, it’s really quiet! It is more difficult to avoid the crowd in Lisbon and Sintra at some tourist sites but it was ok. In short, the Algarve on the west coast is very good during the Summer Holidays!

General information about our roadtrip in Portugal:

Kids’ ages: 4 years old for my son and 1 and a half for my daughter.

Period: mid-August, at the height of the tourist season and the heat, but as I said, we had 26 degrees every day except our last two days in Lisbon: it was 32.

Duration: 2 weeks. One week in the Algarve and one week in Lisbon and its surroundings

Transport: we flew to Lisbon, then we went from Lisbon to Faro (capital of the Algarve) by train (3 hours). To get around, we had the Volkswagen combi the first week. For the second week, we looked at car rentals but it was too expensive for us. So, we decided to limit our trip around Lisbon and to visit only the surrounding areas easily accessible by train.

Itinerary of our family vacation in Portugal:

1 night in Lisbon : It was the occasion to see again this city that we like a lot.
1 night in Olhão : from Lisbon we travelled by train to Faro where we took our campervan. We stayed in Olhão near Faro in this nice fishing village before leaving for the west coast (night in a campsite in Olhão).
1 night in Sagrès : it is the south-western extremity of Europe! Now the wild coast begins… (wild camping)
1 night in Aljezur : further north on the west side… Lots of beautiful beaches nearby (overnight in a campsite)
1 night à Odeceixe : it is the most northern point of our journey, still on the west coast… (wild camping)
1 night at Amado Beach : magnificent beach! My favorite of our holidays! (wild camping)
1 night in Salema : we are back in the south but in a quiet part of the Algarve (night in a campsite)
1 night in Olhão : because we liked it and it’s just next to Faro where we have to return the VW campervan (night at the campsite)
1 night in Cascais : We take the train from Faro to Lisbon then we go to Cascais, a very pleasant seaside town at 40 minutes (by train) from Lisbon.
3 nights near Sintra : a very charming B&B with a huge swimming pool (La Quinta do Scoto) – visit of the beautiful castles in Sintra
2 nights in Lisbon : walks, museums and a great trip to the oceanarium!

Portugal with kids: a week in Algarve

During our week in the Algarve, we alternated nights in campsites and wild camping near beaches. I would like to point out, however, that officially, wild camping is forbidden – so I warned you…

Here are some pictures of the west coast of Algarve. We loved that coast! Not touristy and so wild! Amazing beaches all along!

Aljezur village:

Odeceixe village:

The most southwestern point of Europe in Sagres:

Our great vintage Volkswagen campervan, alias “Apple”… We hired our campervan from Siesta Campers. We totally recommend them!

So happy at the beach:…

To give you an idea of the beaches in the south, more crowded with tourists but very beautiful and without big waves…

The characteristic cliffs of the region:

Portugal with kids: in the Lisbon area

For our second week in Portugal we visited the Lisbon area.

Here is Cascais, a seaside town near Lisbon…

One of the magnificent estates to visit in Sintra: the Quinta da Regaleira…

Last stop: Lisbon…

Our tips to visit Portugal with kids or babies

Baby equipment :

We just took our baby carrier (Ergobaby) and a buggy. The buggy was not very useful and it was not very easy to drive in the streets of Lisbon (big cobblestones and big differences in level). The car seats were provided with the campervan. The cot for our daughter was also provided by our B&B and apartement. In the campervan, the children slept together on the back seat which became a large bed. We put our daughter in the back behind her brother so she wouldn’t fall out, and to be on the safe side, we put our (soft) suitcases at the foot of the bed in case…

Places to eat and places to stay in Portugal:

The restaurant called A Sagrès, in Sagrès: excellent fish restaurant at a real good price!
The fish market in Olhao to buy fish for your BBQ
Our B&B Quinta do Scoto in Meleças, near Sintra (you can book here)
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When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend!
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The restaurant Tala Adega Tipica near the B&B in Meleças near Sintra
The bakery Casa Brasileira for a breakfast in Lisbon (fresh fruit and the homemade pasteis de nata)
The roof top of the Bairro Alto Hotel for a drink with an incredible view over Lisbon.
The restaurant Ponto Final in Lisbon (you go there by boat. Beatiful place and excellent fish!)

Why we think it’s great to visit Portugal with a baby or young kids:

The west side of the Algarve is famous for surfing so yes there are waves but it is still very suitable for young children as on the beaches the waves have allowed the formation of “paddling pools” where children have maximum water up to their knees. In addition, at several beaches there are river arms which reach the sea and where it is therefore possible to swim without waves. Families usually land along the river while surfers are on the ocean side, but both are within a few meters of each other so it’s very convenient!
Our kids loved eating sardines 😉
The children’s favourite outing in Lisbon was to the oceanarium, not to be missed!
The town of Cascais near Lisbon is very pleasant with children: large park and seaside.
You can find nappies, milk and potties in the supermarket (note: there is little choice for salty potties).
Our son loved travelling in our VW campervan as for him, we travelled in Fillmore, one of the characters from the movie Cars!
Portuguese people were so welcoming!

The only negative point:

Walking the streets of Lisbon with children is exhausting! Cobblestones, sloping streets and crowded trams. Plus, it was too hot.

What about you? Are you tempted to spend some family holidays in Portugal?

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Italian trip: our family visit of Puglia

Those who followed our adventures know it already, 10 days ago, we were in the South of Italy for a week-long trip with the children in the heel of the boot. We toured the Puglia Region, and we also made a detour to Basilicate, the neighbouring region. I was already in love with Italy, but now! This mezzogiorno region completely enchanted me! A real crush! I advise everyone to go there. For me, it’s one of the most beautiful trip one can do in South Europe with a wide variety of styles, between very old villages, trulli, baroque style, architecture that reminded me of Greece or Morocco in the coastal villages; the centenary olive trees in the background, a wonderful Adriatic Coast with turquoise shaded water and finally, a delicious cooking… A dream!

Age of Ticoeur : 3 years and a half
Age of Titpuce : 1 year

Season of the trip: mid-April to enjoy the nice spring temperatures. We had between 16 and 25 degrees with a first day that was grey, then bright sunshine. I could almost have bathed.

Duration: one week.

Transport: we had booked a flight Paris-Bari with Easyjet for about 100€ per person for a round-trip (free flight for Titpuce – you only have to pay for the airport taxes for children under 2 years old). The transport in the hold of two accessories per baby is free with Easyjet (strollers, baby bed, child car seat…): it’s very convenient! Then, on the spot, we rented a car (Fiat Punto) for 23 euros a day with Budget.

Itinerary:

2 nights in Matera: wonderful old city classified in the World Heritage of Humanity. A big crush for this stop in the Basilicate region! You must see it! [2019 Edit: Some of the scenes of the next James Bond movie will be shot in Matera!]

2 nights in Cisternino in a trullo, adorable little typical accommodation in Puglia. Visit of all the villages and towns around: Alberobello, Locorotondo, Marina Franca, Ostuni…

White façades around a square in Cisternino — Locorotondo

1 night in Lecce, the baroque city. Then, tour of the peninsula with its very beautiful coast until Gallipoli.

Baroque church and square in Lecce, Puglia — Lecce

Blue boats floating in a Puglian cove — Gallipoli

Clear-water beach beside a white Puglian town — Gallipoli

1 night in Polignano a Mare, adorable village flanked on a cliff on the South part of Bari. The following day: visit of Trani on our way to Gargano.

Square in Polignano a Mare lit up at dusk — Polignano a Mare

Trani Cathedral jutting into the Adriatic Sea — Trani

2 nights in the natural region of Gargano, in Vico del Gargano: fishermen villages, very beautiful beaches, forest… a wild environment…

This itinerary, we improvised it the day before we left. Now, if I had to do it again, I would choose between three options:

1/ the same itinerary but shortened by the Gargano because this very wild beautiful area alone deserves a whole week and requires that you take mountain roads that Ticoeur and Titpuce’s stomachs didn’t tolerate. Also, with all these bends, every trip takes more time so on a week, it’s too short to really enjoy the beauty of Gargano. So, I would add 1 night in Lecce and 1 night in Polignano to my initial itinerary.

2/ stay in a trullo in Cisternino or in another village of trulli and visit the whole Puglia region from only one drop point. You can do it because the distances are not too big.

3/ Consider a 2 week stay in Puglia because there really is a lot to do!

Olive grove in Puglia in spring — Olive trees everywhere!

Baby equipment:

We had taken our foldable baby bed for Titpuce because we didn’t focus our researches on accommodations that were equipped for babies. For the rides, we used the Ergobaby for Titpuce and Ticoeur walked without a problem. This way, we managed not to be too heavily loaded, with only one suitcase per adult (as a cabin baggage) and Ticoeur brought his little “Woodours” bag to tidy his toys 😉

Good addresses:

A lot! Including:

the B&B i setti coni : we settled in a real trullo. It’s so cute! The landlady is lovely.

la trattoria di Nonna Tetti in Lecce (Piazetta Regina Maria): an authentic and local cooking in a typical setting, with a very reasonnable price.
the Osteria dei Mulini in Polignano a Mare: very delicate! Don’t hesitate to taste the carpaccio of octopus.
il Terrazzino in Matera: a restaurant that is touristic for sure, but we ate very well for a very affordable price: 4 euros for a pizza and 6 euros the delicious dish of pastas shaped like olive tree leaves! Very beautiful location in the old town.

The “baby pros”:

Ticoeur tested and approved all the playgrounds of Puglia 😉
He walked without a problem because the old villages gave him the impression of an adventure: stairs, passages, tunnels, little bridges…
Ticoeur loved the visit of a cave (Castellana) which I’ll tell you about again later
The historic city centres are only for pedestrians or with very limited traffic so it’s really appreciable for a family stroll.
The children liked the breaks on the beaches of the coast: play in the sand and soak the feet in the sea.
Ticoeur and Titpuce loved the Italian cooking!
We often had a baby chair in the restaurants
The car steps are short: between ¼ of an hour and about 2h top. We put the 2 hour trips during nap time.

The “baby cons” :

As I mentioned above, the only damper of our trip was the road in the Gargano area: the children were car-sick because there were only mountain roads in the wild part of Puglia…
I had already mentioned it: in Italy, I don’t like the offer of baby food-jar (too much meat and not enough vegetables). So, for Titpuce, we had brought a couple of baby dishes from France and we also gave her what we ate (she loves pastas!). Otherwise, concerning yoghurt, cheese, compote, baby formula, we find the same products as in France.

What about you? Are you tempted by the Puglia region with your family?

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Morocco: our long weekend in Fes and Meknes with a baby

Here is the report from our long weekend in Fes and Meknes with a baby. Morocco, with its colours, scents and warm welcome, turned out to be an ideal destination for finding sunshine and a real change of scene in autumn.

For this short stay, we really wanted to go to Fes, the famous imperial city, which has the largest medina in Morocco and the largest pedestrian area in the world! As I had already visited Marrakech, I wanted to discover another city, quieter and more picturesque, about which I had heard many good things. We can confirm that Fes is a great city to visit as a family! From Fes, we also spent one day and one night in Meknes.

Ticoeur’s age: 14 months
When we travelled: November, during the 11 November long weekend. Weather-wise, it was around 20 degrees and we had bright sunshine.
Duration: 4 days.

Fes and Meknes with a baby: our itinerary

4 days and 4 nights:

Day 1: arrival in Fes, around midday. Exploring the city on foot: the medina and its souks, visit to the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Nejjarine Museum – night in Fes.
Day 2: Fes: more souks, Glaoui Palace, hill of the Merenid Tombs – night in Fes.
Day 3: walk through the tanners’ quarter and visit to the Attarine Madrasa in the morning. Afternoon: head to Meknes, visit the city – night in Meknes.
Day 4: excursion to Volubilis, then back to Meknes for the afternoon and return journey to Fes – night in Fes.
Departure: after breakfast. Flight around midday.

I should mention that, travelling with a baby, we kept a very gentle pace. If you only have 3 nights there, you can easily condense our programme and visit Meknes and Volubilis as a day trip from Fes.

Fes with a baby: our favourite accommodation

For our first 2 nights in Fes, we booked a room at Riad Seffarine, an authentic riad run by locals who welcomed us very warmly. We had a beautiful room on the ground floor, opening onto the richly decorated patio. Between the magnificent setting, the wonderful welcome and the excellent breakfasts, we highly recommend this address!

This is the lovely view over Fes from the riad roof:

The riad overlooks Seffarine Square, where artisans work metal, especially to make the large Moroccan tea trays.

What to see in Fes?

We mostly went on long walks through the huge medina of Fes: a medieval medina listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with its maze of little streets and 20 km of ramparts. We added a few visits to our wanderings, detailed below.

The medina and the souks:

The best-known entrance to the medina is Bab Bou Jeloud gate, the Blue Gate, with its arches and magnificent blue patterns.

The medina has two main streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Sghira, as well as a maze of lanes where it is a pleasure to get lost while discovering the souks, organised by trade: pottery, carpets, babouches, and so on.

Of course we bargained, but it was pleasant and good-natured: I much preferred this souk experience to the one in Marrakech. In fact, compared with Marrakech, I find that the medina of Fes is more beautiful and more authentic. Architecturally, it feels more harmonious, and it is more pleasant because it is pedestrianised. It was a joy simply to observe the life and bustle of Fes.

In the souks, you come across beautiful woodwork and painted decorations:

Madrasas, museum and palaces:

We visited the Bou Inania Madrasa, which dates from the 14th century and was built under the Merenid dynasty. It is the most beautiful madrasa in Fes, with an elegant patio. You can visit the different spaces of this former Quranic school and admire the architecture typical of the Merenid style.

The second well-known madrasa in Fes is the Attarine Madrasa, also richly decorated, with a marble fountain in the middle of the courtyard. Once again, it is a beautiful example of Merenid architecture.

We also visited the Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts, in the Nejjarine fondouk. Historically, in the 18th century, the building was one of the largest caravanserais in Fes. Inside, you can see impressive cedarwood balustrades.

Right next door, on Nejjarine Square, there is this beautiful fountain decorated with mosaics:

The gates of the Royal Palace are impressive. So even though the palace itself cannot be visited, you should go and admire its seven golden doors, decorated with zellige tiles and wood, on Place des Alaouites.

Finally, we made a quick visit to Glaoui Palace, which is rather dilapidated, what a shame! It must have been something in its day. There are still some beautiful decorations, but it would need a major renovation to restore all its charm.

The best views over Fes:

To admire the sunset, we went up to the ruins of the Merenid Tombs, where we enjoyed the panoramic view over Fes. It is a superb distant viewpoint and not to be missed, although I do have a preference for the views from the rooftops of riads in the medina, as they feel more immersive, right in the heart of the city’s atmosphere.

The view from our riad was truly incredible! We spent time on the terrace every morning with our Ticoeur:

The tanners’ quarter:

In the tanners’ quarter, what a pleasure for the eyes to see all those bright colours! Chouara Tannery is the largest and most photogenic in the city, but there are many others.

For next time: we really adopted a slow pace, often stopping for mint tea. We did not have time to visit El Moki Palace, which looked tempting.

Our good addresses in Fes:

Café Clock: a good atmosphere in this medina bar, with excellent milkshakes, delicious fresh mint lemonade, camel burgers (we did not try them!), and live music.

Riad Fes: this is a very chic riad, a Relais & Châteaux, where we only went for a drink in the evening. The room prices are dizzying :-).

Visiting Meknes:

From Fes, we went to visit Meknes by bus. We spent one day and one night there to enjoy the city’s atmosphere properly. It is less spectacular than Fes, but very interesting and pleasant to visit.

Meknes is also an imperial city. It was the capital of Morocco in the 17th and 18th centuries.

Our visits in Meknes

Bab el Mansour gate, entrance to the medina. It is impressive in size and finely decorated.

The medina and its souks: while walking through the streets of the medina, we came across quite a few sheep because locals were preparing for Eid al-Adha. Ticoeur helped them choose a good sheep!
The Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail: this religious monument, open to non-Muslims, has a sequence of patios and an elegant ablutions courtyard.

The madrasa: Meknes’ Quranic school, known for its architecture.

At nightfall, we watched the activity on the large el-Hedime Square: it is not as impressive as Jemaa el-Fnaa square in Marrakech, but it was nice.

For next time: we did not have time to visit Dar Jamai Palace, a Hispano-Moorish style palace that has become a music museum.

Our accommodation in Meknes

For our night in Meknes, we slept at Riad d’Or. It was good, but not at the level of our riad in Fes. For another time, I spotted Riad Royal, just next door to ours, which looks like a very good choice, with family rooms and a nicer terrace.

Excursion to Volubilis:

Thirty kilometres north of Meknes, Volubilis is the best-preserved Roman site in North Africa. We enjoyed this archaeological site, which offers a journey within the journey. The mosaics are particularly well preserved. Among the ruins of the site, there is also a Triumphal Arch and the remains of the ancient city, such as the Capitol, the Basilica and the Forum.

We took a taxi from Meknes to Volubilis. Time spent visiting: 1 hr 20 min.

Homestay room for our last night in Fes:

For our last night in Fes, we tried the concept of homestay accommodation and loved it! Most accommodation in Fes consists of riads converted into hotels, with some very beautiful options (ours was superb! See above), but there is also the option of sleeping in a simpler riad inhabited by a local family. Prices are very gentle, and it allows for an authentic experience with a very warm welcome. The best thing is to experience both, as we did: the “riad hotel” for the beauty of the decorations and the “family riad” for the human experience.

The association that manages these homestay accommodations is called Ziyarates Fes. The website brings together all the different guest rooms. We stayed with the Drissi Kaitouni family: lovely people with whom we had a beautiful exchange during a gargantuan breakfast!

Fes and Meknes in Morocco: is it a baby-friendly trip?

Fes and its surroundings are an ideal destination with a baby: Moroccans are completely enchanted by children. They asked us questions about our little star and offered him small sweet gifts, such as gazelle horns, dates, bananas… Our little pasha enjoyed it all! He was also passed into the arms of many kind Moroccan mamas and received hundreds of smiles!

Seeing your child laugh, smile and be amused by what he sees around him: that really is what matters most! Our Ticoeur was very observant during our walks. He was also amused to come across sheep and donkeys in the street, and he enjoyed toddling around the vast courtyards of the riads.

The baby-friendly plus points:

Sunshine when there is none left at home!
Fes is a pedestrian city, so it is pleasant to walk around with a baby.
A wonderful welcome from locals who adore children (as everywhere, of course, but even more so here!)

The baby-friendly downsides:

No high chairs, changing tables, baby cots… or only very rarely.
The crowd in the souks can be a little stressful for a baby at certain times. Favour early morning.
Ticoeur was surprised and worried when he heard the first call from the mosque because we were close to a loudspeaker! We quickly reassured him!

***

In conclusion, we really had an excellent weekend in Fes with a baby, under beautiful Moroccan sunshine. Fes was a real favourite, a city full of charm and very pleasant for families!

And you? Do you feel like going to Fes and the surrounding area as a family?

Also read: 4 days in Marrakech and the surrounding area.

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