Maman Voyage: all our family travel articles

Visit Paris as a family: 20 ideas to discover the Capital with children.

As I am Parisian and here I tell you all about our travels with children, ultimately I rarely talk about Paris, my dear city! Which museums, neighbourhoods and monuments should you visit in Paris with children? So here is a first selection of 20 visit ideas for discovering Paris as a family!

20 visits for discovering Paris as a family:

1 – The Louvre Museum in a short version:

At the Louvre, with children, I recommend choosing a small part of the museum and spending only one hour there. Our children liked the section:

on Egypt (Sully wing): the room with the mummies and sarcophagi, the statue of the Seated Scribe, the blue hippopotamus statuette, the Great Sphinx, etc.
on Primitive Arts : magnificent African masks, pre-Columbian sculptures, art from Oceania and Asia.
on Islamic Arts : a superb Ottoman wall that catches the eye with the beauty and diversity of its blue patterns.
also, I strongly recommend Napoleon Bonaparte’s apartments: a real favourite and often not very busy!

The most visited galleries at the Louvre are devoted to Italian painting or French painting, but I think that would be a little ambitious with children! Finally, to avoid long queues at the museum entrance, I recommend entering via the Porte des Lions rather than the Pyramid entrance.

After or before your visit to the Louvre, children will enjoy a break in the magnificent Tuileries Gardens. During the festive season, there is a Big Wheel offering lovely views over the surrounding area.

Bookings: on the official Louvre Museum website. €22 for adults from the EEA, free for all children and free for 18-25-year-olds from the EEA (2026 prices).

Bonus info: in the Louvre buildings, you will also find the Musée des Arts Déco, which often puts on very beautiful exhibitions. See their programme here.

Louvre Museum wing bordering a courtyard in Paris — The Louvre Museum

Gilded room with red drapes at the Louvre — Bonaparte’s apartments

2 – The Palais Garnier (Paris Opera):

My Titpuce is a fan of Ballerina and classical dance, so the Paris Opera is a must-see for her! The visit inside was a real favourite for the whole family! It is Versailles, but not in Versailles! Luxury and excess are on the programme. You step into Paris during the Second Empire. Not to be missed:

The grand staircase, so majestic.
The ceiling painted by Chagall in the auditorium.
The grand foyer, which clearly recalls the Palace of Versailles with all its gilding and mirrors.

Bookings: on the Opéra Garnier website. €15 for adults from the EEA, free for children up to age 12 and €10 for 13-25-year-olds from the EEA (2026 prices).

Bonus info: remember to check the programme because seeing a show will allow you to admire the place (so you could save on the visit). With my daughter, we went to one of the performances by the Petits Rats de l’Opéra (usually in December and in spring). A great idea for a mother-daughter outing!

Current news: a new film about The Phantom of the Opera, starring Romain Duris, will be released in cinemas in September 2026 (at least in France). A good way to immerse yourself again in this beautiful romantic legend.

3- The Buren Columns, a Japanese restaurant and perhaps the Musée en Herbe:

The Buren columns are located in the courtyard of honour of the Palais Royal, behind the Comédie Française. It is a work of art by Daniel Buren dating from 1986. It is not a very big space, but Ticoeur and Titpuce never tired of climbing on the smaller marble columns and it makes for very pretty photos!

Nearby, you can have lunch in the Japanese quarter with a delicious bowl of ramen (rue Sainte-Anne and around).

Bonus info: just a few steps from the Buren Columns, if the programme looks good, do not miss the Musée en Herbe, dedicated to art exhibitions for children.

4- The Petit Palais or the Grand Palais:

The Petit Palais, right next door (free), presents beautiful and varied art collections in a magnificent setting. Plus, you can sit down for lunch on the terrace of its lovely garden. From 20 June to 20 September 2026, do not miss the free exhibition “Here we are (still) here”: colourful urban art that the whole family will enjoy!
Finally, the Grand Palais is sublime, so if the current (paid) exhibitions might appeal to your children, go for it! The interior is monumental! The current exhibition not to miss? The Matisse exhibition, until 26 July 2026.

2026 info: just next to the Petit Palais, there is also the Palais de la Découverte (perfect for introducing children to science in a fun way), but it is currently closed for renovation.

Colonnade and floor mosaic in the Petit Palais courtyard — The Petit Palais

Glass-roofed Grand Palais behind trees in Paris — The Grand Palais

5- The Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in the Marais and/or the Picasso Museum:

Ticoeur and Titpuce loved the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, located in the heart of the Marais, a neighbourhood not to miss when visiting Paris for the first time. In the museum, you enjoy the setting of a magnificent mansion and discover paintings, taxidermied animals, weapons and decorative objects. Allow a good hour for the visit.

Not far away is the Picasso Museum, which is absolutely superb! Children should also be interested in the visual originality of the artist’s works. Doing two museums in a row is not suitable for all children, so I will let you choose according to your preference.

Bonus info: for a gourmet break in the Marais, just a few steps from these museums, I recommend the courtyard of the Swedish Institute, where you will find Café Fika.

Bronze animal sculpture at the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature — The Picasso Museum – Paris

Façade of the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in the Marais — Café Fika at the Swedish Institute

6- The Centre Georges Pompidou, the Stravinsky Fountain and a delicious pistachio ice cream!

The Centre Pompidou is closed for renovation until 2030 but, just a few steps away, the Stravinsky Fountain by Jean Tinguely and Niki de Saint Phalle catches children’s attention. Then, a few steps further, you will arrive at Bachir (58 rue Rambuteau, Paris 3rd), a Lebanese ice cream shop (and organic too!) where the ice creams are delicious, especially the pistachio and ashta flavours.

Stravinsky Fountain and Centre Pompidou façade in Paris — Stravinsky Fountain

7- The Musée des Arts & Métiers and brunch at La Gaîté Lyrique:

We really like the Musée des Arts et Métiers, located right in the heart of Paris and bringing together inventions and trades through the ages. Do not miss the part located in the former church, with Foucault’s pendulum and the first aeroplanes. The collection of old bicycles is also interesting.

Then, I suggest heading to the cultural space of La Gaîté Lyrique (5 minutes on foot), where you can have lunch or brunch at 3Bis, a café and games bar. Also, feel free to check the programme at La Gaîté Lyrique, which regularly offers exhibitions suitable for young audiences, dedicated to digital arts and contemporary music.

Vintage aircraft suspended in the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris — The Musée des Arts et Métiers

8- The balloon at Parc André Citroën:

Obviously, Paris has no shortage of famous viewpoints! The top of the Eiffel Tower, the roof of the Arc de Triomphe or the terrace of the Sacré Cœur are undoubtedly the most famous! But I suggest flying up in a balloon at Parc André Citroën, for the children’s enjoyment and for very beautiful views over the capital, 150m up. There are rarely many people, but the balloon does not always take off because very favourable weather conditions are needed. With Titpuce, we tested and approved it! But it is impressive! It moves quite a lot, so avoid it if you suffer from vertigo.

9- The Jardin des Plantes and its museums:

When the weather is nice, and especially in spring or summer, the Jardin des Plantes is a very pleasant place for a family stroll. The garden is free, but you can buy tickets to visit:

The Grandes Serres and their 4 areas to discover: the tropical forest, the deserts, Pacific biodiversity and the History of Plants. Bookings and prices.
The Grande Galerie de l’Évolution: in the impressive setting of an immense glass roof, you discover the history of living things and many animals. Bookings and prices.
Recently, it was the Gallery of Mineralogy and Geology that we rediscovered and really enjoyed! You can see very beautiful specimens of crystals, precious jewellery, diamonds and Martian meteorites!

Greenhouse in Paris's Jardin des Plantes — The Grandes Serres

White crystals displayed at the Natural History Museum in Paris — The Gallery of Mineralogy and Geology

10- From the Paris Mosque to the Arènes de Lutèce:

When leaving the Jardin des Plantes, you can have a mint tea in the oriental setting of the Paris Mosque: the interior room is very exotic and the Hispano-Moorish garden gives the impression of a trip to Andalusia.

Then, right next door, head to the Arènes de Lutèce, not often visited and yet they are beautiful Gallo-Roman remains (free access). These arenas used to host gladiator fights and theatrical performances. Children can run around and you can sit on the amphitheatre steps for a picnic.

Bonus info: if you do not have a picnic, I recommend the crêperie Le Pot O’Lait, located 10 minutes away on foot (41 Rue Censier, Paris 5th).

Stone seating at the Arènes de Lutèce in Paris — The Arènes de Lutèce

11- A barge or water-bus ride and a visit to Notre-Dame de Paris:

Here is a great classic that lets you see Paris from the Seine. As a family, the advantage of a barge ride is that the children do not get tired. If you do not want to board a full cruise, you can also take a water bus (see the Batobus website for pass timetables and prices). Along the way, you can wave to Notre-Dame de Paris. And while disembarking, I recommend visiting the renovated interior of Notre-Dame de Paris. It is superb!

Vaulting and nave inside Notre-Dame de Paris — Renovated Notre-Dame de Paris

12- The Fondation Louis Vuitton and the Jardin d’Acclimatation:

Are your children asking for rides and playgrounds? Then head to the Jardin d’Acclimatation on the edge of the Bois de Boulogne. For parents, the appeal is to start with the Fondation Louis Vuitton, whose Gehry-designed architecture I love. The exhibitions there are often very interesting. Until August 2026, do not miss the exhibition “Calder. Rêver en équilibre”. The museum entrance tickets give access to the Jardin d’Acclimatation, where the children can have fun after the exhibition visit.

13- The Musée Nissim de Camondo and Parc Monceau:

Here is a museum off the beaten track and yet so interesting! You discover the interior of a very beautiful mansion, still furnished (wow, the kitchen!). The visit is not very long and then you can follow it with Parc Monceau, so the children can run and play or for a picnic in summer! Parc Monceau is one of my favourite Parisian parks. It is particularly elegant, full of charm and family-friendly.

Musée Nissim de Camondo: 63 Rue de Monceau, Paris 8th.

14- The Musée de l’Armée:

Located at Les Invalides, this museum delighted my Ticoeur! It is one of the most important military history museums in the world. I recommend the special family guided tour. You go through, chronologically:

The ancient department and its beautiful armour
An imperial section linked to Napoleon
A modern section dedicated to the 20th century.

What did Ticoeur prefer? The armour and the section on Napoleon.

Booking: on the official Musée de l’Armée website.

15- Montmartre and the Sacré Cœur:

If your children are like mine, they do not like walking in the city when it is all flat… In Montmartre, they will be delighted: it climbs! At the top, in front of the Sacré Cœur church, the effort is rewarded with a very beautiful view of Paris. It is also worth going inside the Basilica of the Sacré Cœur (free) to admire the large spaces and the Romano-Byzantine architecture. For budding little artists, it is always fun to watch the artists drawing portraits on Place du Tertre.

Bonus info: on the way back down there is a merry-go-round if needed ;-).

16- Parc des Buttes Chaumont:

This park in the 19th arrondissement, created under Napoleon III, has lots of charm and offers varied landscapes: it is very hilly, with a lake, a waterfall, an artificial grotto, a suspension bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel and, finally, a belvedere not to be missed for the view. Parc des Buttes Chaumont is ideal for a family picnic or a break at Rosa Bonheur, which has a guinguette spirit. You will also find playgrounds there.

17- From Canal Saint-Martin to Canal de l’Ourcq, all the way to Parc de La Villette

Parents will appreciate the charm of the Canal Saint-Martin, which will remind you of certain scenes from the famous film Amélie. All along the canal, there are plenty of places for brunch or lunch.

By continuing to follow the water, you arrive at the Canal de l’Ourcq, where in summer you can take a little electric boat ride and enjoy the terraces on the quay. Our children really enjoyed this activity!

Finally, still following the water northwards, you will arrive at Parc de La Villette, where there are many spaces dedicated to children:

the Cité des Sciences: to introduce children to science in a fun way. Do not miss the visit to the submarine the Argonaute or the planetarium. You will also find spaces suitable for younger children in the Cité des Enfants (2-7 and 5-12-year-old areas). In short, there is plenty to keep you there for hours! See opening times and prices.
the Géode : for an immersive cinema experience. See prices and opening times.
and our favourite, the Musée de la Musique : you discover many instruments through the ages. Demonstrations are also organised.

Silver Géode at La Villette reflecting sky and trees — The Géode at La Villette

18- The Musée du Quai Branly:

This museum is not very busy and yet it is full of treasures from all over the world. I love the section on Oceania and Africa! The children enjoyed it too! A guaranteed change of scenery with a very beautiful scenography. See programme and booking.

Nearby, you can walk along the Seine or head to the Eiffel Tower!

19- The aquarium at Porte Dorée and the Parc Floral:

Here, we are in the far east of Paris. The aquarium at Porte Dorée is worth a visit for its architecture, its very gentle price and, of course, its fish! Nearby, if the weather allows, head to the Parc Floral. Ideally, go when the summer jazz concerts are on. I find it much better than the Aquarium de Paris at Trocadéro (and cheaper!).

20- The Eiffel Tower!

Ha ha! Were you wondering whether I was going to skip it? But no, we love our Eiffel Tower! I just imagine it was already on your list of visits in Paris! Nevertheless, I can tell you how we like to visit it: on foot, up to the 2nd floor! It is a great option to pay less, have a shorter queue, and it is a memorable experience for the whole family. By choosing the stairs rather than the lift, the children will let off steam and be impressed. It is an adventure in itself when you climb the steps surrounded by this incredible iron structure. With the stairs option, you cannot go up to the 3rd floor but believe me (I have been on all floors), the view from the 2nd floor is superb! You will not be disappointed!

Booking: on the official Eiffel Tower website. And it is best to plan ahead!

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I hope you enjoyed this first big stroll all across Paris! To get around, the metro and buses are very practical with children. You just need to make sure you avoid rush hour! And about metro line 14, the driverless one: get into the first carriage because children will love seeing the tracks and tunnels through the front window!

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Paris as a family: accommodation

Many of you ask me for accommodation tips in Paris for a family stay. Since we have been living in England, we have had the opportunity to come back to the capital and therefore to sleep in hotels or rentals because our families do not have enough space and our flat is often rented out. So here are a few tried-and-tested addresses.

Our good family accommodation addresses in Paris:

Le Yooma urban lodge: a comfortable family hotel in a quiet neighbourhood (15th arrondissement)
Hotel B55 in the south of Paris (12th arrondissement): family room with two double beds.
La Belle Ville: I stayed there with Papa Voyage but they also have Junior suites for 4 with a double bed and sofa. The neighbourhood is not ideal for families, right in the east of Paris, but the hotel is beautiful, the rooms are very good: good value for money. Very beautiful plant-covered façade. Also, despite its outlying location, the metro is just a few steps away, so it is easy to get to central Paris.

Hotel room with a double bed in Belleville, Paris

Renting a flat: we have spotted, but not yet tested, this lovely loft in Montmartre.

**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****

There you go! That was my selection of family visits in the capital!

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The Lot with kids: 10 family-friendly things to do

The Lot is clearly an ideal destination for a family holiday. We had already been there with Ticoeur when he was two, and we were very happy to return! In the middle of summer, it is a great way to avoid the crowds on the beaches, and if you fancy a swim you will easily find a lovely river or stream. For a nature holiday, somewhere green and with children, it is just perfect! Today, I wanted to share with you 10 ideas for outings with kids in the Lot:

1 – Take a steam train ride in Martel:

This trip along a cliff 80 metres high, on an old railway line overlooking the Dordogne Valley, feels like a childhood dream. Honestly, it is brilliant for children, but it is magical for parents too! What is so impressive about the Lot steam train, called “Le Truffadou”, is going through the tunnels. It is a real adventure! As the train passes through the tunnels, you are surrounded by all the smoke and find yourself in a cloud… It is a fun experience that helps you understand what travelling used to be like. And the view over the valley is superb! The ride lasts one hour. Absolutely worth doing!

2 – Visit the Cougnaguet watermill

This pretty mill is very picturesque and dates back to the 14th century. The guided tour is really interesting for understanding how flour is made. Children can watch the machinery and cogs turning and discover every stage, from wheat to flour. On top of that, the welcome from Odette and Hubert, the owners, is more than adorable. We were lucky enough to have a picnic with them and they gave us the warmest, simplest and most generous welcome. Hubert tells the story of his mill with real passion and knows exactly how to share it with visitors passing through.

3 – Meet the black-spectacled sheep of Quercy

Well, I am very much a city girl, so perhaps this will not mean much coming from me, but I had never seen sheep like these before! They look like little stars with their black glasses 😉 And they are right to show off, because these Causse sheep are really beautiful. They are a breed specific to the Lot and are bound to be a hit with little ones!

4 – Discover how Rocamadour cheese is made

After the sheep, the goats! During our visit to Ferme Lacoste, we were able to say hello to the friendly goats that produce the delicious little AOC cheeses we know so well. Then we discovered the room where the cheese is prepared. A very fragrant visit!

5 – Canoeing on the Dordogne

The Dordogne flows calmly and peacefully, so do not picture white-water rapids! Canoeing on the Dordogne is really one of the summer activities for families, a lovely way to admire the scenery while doing a bit of sport. For safety reasons, children simply need to be at least 6 years old and able to swim. So for us, we will have to wait a few more years before trying it. In the meantime, last time with Ticoeur we opted for a boat cruise on the Dordogne, a classic and very pleasant outing where you find lots of families with younger children.

6 – The Gouffre de Padirac

The Gouffre de Padirac is an underground curiosity to discover as a family, whatever the age of your children. The little boat ride is probably the most fun part for kids!

7 – Lunch by the water

After canoeing, feeling a little hungry? We had lunch in a waterside restaurant perfectly suited to families, Le Vieux Chene in Montvalent. It is a lovely restaurant with a large open-air terrace in front of the Dordogne, a swimming pool for sunny days, games for children and, of course, an old oak tree! The menu is very good value and the natural setting is truly relaxing. A beautiful pause in the sunshine, with good things on the plates. That said, we had not really earned our lovely meal, as we were unable to go canoeing: it had rained too much in the previous days. Just look at how the trees had water up to their “knees”!

8 – Easy walks in the Lot

Thankfully, hiking does not always have to mean the GR20 😉 In the Lot there are lots of very easy short walks that are suitable for children, even very young ones. We discovered one very simple route in the Ouysse Valley, a walk that can be done with children: the walk to the Gouffre de Saint-Sauveur.

9 – Discover the Lot by bike!

How could I possibly leave cycling off my list? As you know, we are big fans, so I looked into it: the Tourist Office offers easy cycling routes for families, and that does not surprise me. Fun little story: our much-loved bike trailer was bought second-hand from a family who had used it for five years, every summer, in the Lot and only in the Lot! So I think our trailer will be very keen to return to this corner it knows so well!

10 – A typical family dinner in the Lot

After a busy day of activities with children, nothing beats a local restaurant where kids are welcome. We tried Ferme auberge du Bougayrou in Lacave, a very typical Quercy inn with large tables for families. There, we discovered a really intriguing and… filling dish: pastis! Inside this enormous pie? Duck confit, chicken and salsify. Pastis is eaten before Lent and, believe me, you understand why! In short, a good local meal after a very active day with children!

Of course, my list is not exhaustive. There are plenty of other outings to enjoy with children: castles, wildlife parks, caves and more. I therefore invite you to have a look at the website of the Lot Tourist Office.

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Where to stay in the Lot?

The charming hotel Les Vieilles Tours in Rocamadour: the beauty of old stone buildings with nicely decorated rooms. The family room has one double bed and two single beds.

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And you? Any other ideas for outings with kids in the Lot?

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4 days in Barcelona with our teenagers

For the Easter long weekend, we spent 4 days in Barcelona as a family. Ticoeur and Titpuce are now teenagers, so the programme was different from the last time when they were young children. I’m going to tell you about our visits and walks day by day, to inspire you, and I’ll also tell you what our teenagers liked most in Barcelona! I can already tell you that we still love this city just as much!

Children’s ages: Titpuce 14 and Ticoeur 16 Time of year: Early April. We had dream weather!

Barcelona as a family: 4 days and 3 nights

You’ll notice that we zigzagged around the city a lot. Our journeys in Barcelona were not optimised because we had booked certain visits at specific times that didn’t follow on from one another. In fact, to make the most of all Barcelona’s bargains and free museums, you have to juggle the days and times. Read my article: Visiting Barcelona without breaking the bank.

As usual, I’ve added little ❤ symbols for our favourites!

Day 1: the Gothic Quarter, Sant Pau and Montjuïc

We arrived in Barcelona just before midday. We dropped our bags at our accommodation, in the Les Corts district, and started with tapas on a terrace in a very pretty square in the neighbourhood (see good addresses below).

After lunch, we got straight into things by taking the metro to the Gothic Quarter. The Gothic Quarter is the historic heart of Barcelona. Starting from La Rambla (the main central artery), we passed the famous Boqueria market, then headed towards the lovely Plaça Reial ❤ with its arcades and palm trees. I’m attached to this square, where we took lots of photos of the children when they were little. We recreated the series now that they’re bigger! Then we wandered through the little streets around the Cathedral. As it was Good Friday, there was a mass taking place right outside! It was unusual to have the service in the square rather than inside!

7 tips for visiting Barcelona as a family without breaking the bank!

When I booked our long weekend in Barcelona as a family, I wasn’t expecting to discover that Barcelona had become such an expensive city! We’d been there several times in the past and it used to be a pretty budget-friendly city. The last time we were there was for my Titpuce’s 5th birthday, so that was a while ago! Inflation has clearly happened since then, but not only that! Barcelona is a victim of its own success and tourists pay the price! Luckily, I found several ways to save money on our spending. So I’m going to share my finds with you, so that you too can visit Barcelona as a family without breaking the bank!

Children’s ages: Titpuce 14 and Ticoeur 16 Time of year: Easter, in bright sunshine and 21 degrees! And that dream weather is… free 🙂

1- Visit Barcelona on the first Sunday of the month:

Because good news! There are some great free museums!

We were in Barcelona during the first weekend of April and we were able to take advantage of free entry to several Barcelona museums, including one of Gaudí’s houses! But watch out! Even if the tickets are free, you still have to book them in advance online, and make sure you don’t get the booking timing wrong because these free tickets go very fast!

Palau Güell: free on the first Sunday of the month – to book the previous Thursday at 10am

Visiting a Gaudí work for free—believe me, it’s a miracle! Among all the things to do in Barcelona, the biggest budget item is getting into the famous Gaudí houses: Casa Batlló, Casa Milà (or La Pedrera) and Casa Vicens. Each costs €20–25 per person. Luckily, one Gaudí building offers free entry on the first Sunday of the month: Palau Güell. Thank you! This palace, located in central Barcelona just a stone’s throw from La Rambla, is one of the architect’s first commissions, made at the request of his patron, the wealthy Eusebi Güell. Palau Güell is therefore a pure example of Catalan Art Nouveau style. It’s the famous movement known as Modernism. You’ll see many characteristic details such as wrought iron and noble materials. You can already see all of Gaudí’s creativity and originality—especially his rooftop chimney style.

Our 10 family hikes in Aragon

Last summer, we drove down in our van to northern Spain and explored Aragon as a family. Our goal? Beautiful mountains for hiking and good food: Aragon offered us all that and even more! We were delighted by the varied landscapes, from mountains to plains, with pretty rivers. We even enhanced our family hiking experience with a canyoning outing! A first for the children! Great memories! I’m going to break down our 6-day road trip through Aragon, from the Pyrenees border down to Zaragoza, and share our 10 family hikes in Aragon!

Time of year: the 3rd week of July

Children’s ages: 13 and 15.

To keep it simple, among our 10 hikes there are 5 short and easy hikes and 5 moderate-to-challenging hikes, including one canyoning hike! So there’s something for every level! You can therefore imagine a less sporty version of our Aragon road trip by choosing the easy walks and easier variants. On top of the hiking programme, there’s plenty to enjoy between swims in rivers and waterfalls (the children loved it!) and visiting villages. Below, I’ve listed our hikes in chronological order of our 6-night road trip in Aragon.

Here are all the details of our 10 hikes in Aragon!

1 – The Hunter’s Trail hike (Ordesa y Monte Perdido National Park)

Sporty hike, medium difficulty – 20 km loop – 750 m elevation gain – 6 hrs with a picnic break (7 hrs advertised)

After a quick breakfast, we park at the large car park in Torla, where you have to take a bus to the start of the hikes (the bus runs every 15 minutes from 7am). It’s a bit frustrating to start a hike by taking a bus, but apparently, in high season, there isn’t enough parking at Ordesa (the start of the hikes). It’s also to avoid too much traffic on winding roads.

We start the Hunter’s Trail hike (senda de los cazadores) at 8.30am and walk anti-clockwise. That way, we begin with the hardest part: a steep climb that lasts 1 hour 30 minutes. There are very few hikers on this trail because most visitors choose the waterfalls hike (see the shorter version below).

After our big ascent, we reach Faja de Pelay, a balcony path, fairly narrow but easy, offering magnificent views of the mountains. We catch sight of the Breach of Roland, which we’d already seen in France on a hike at the Cirque de Gavarnie.

3 days in Edinburgh with my teenager

We’ve just spent a long mother-daughter weekend in Edinburgh. As I already knew the Scottish capital, I tried to put together a 3-day programme tailored to my young teenager’s tastes, with references to Harry Potter, history and fascinating anecdotes, art and shopping! In 3 days in Edinburgh, I was able to delight her around her interests while also showing her the city’s must-sees. In the end, at the grand age of 14, my girl loved this three-day weekend in Edinburgh. It really is an easy city break to manage for a solo mum, with guaranteed success with the kids! On the programme: Old Town, New Town, Dean Village and other lesser-known Edinburgh neighbourhoods. So, shall I take you along for the tour?

Edinburgh with my young teenager: visiting the Old Town

To visit the Old Town, allow between 1 and 2 days.

Victoria Street ❤

We started with this famous colourful, curved, cobbled street in the medieval centre of Edinburgh. It’s one of the prettiest in the city, in the Victorian style. What’s more, it is said to have inspired Diagon Alley for the Harry Potter films, so it was a good way to ease my girl in! Above the row of multicoloured houses is a balcony-terrace (Victoria Terrace), which we climbed up to for another view of the street. Several shops and cafés on Victoria Street are popular, including the Elephant House café, where J.K. Rowling began writing Harry Potter (it isn’t the original premises).

For more details on the places linked to the Harry Potter saga, read my article on the trail of Harry Potter in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh & Harry Potter: 10 places not to miss!

If you’re planning to visit Edinburgh with teenagers or children who are Harry Potter fans, I hope this little guide will help you plan your walk yourselves. By the way, perhaps you’re Harry Potter fans too? But just so you know, that’s not my case! This detail is important because it means I can assure you that setting off on the trail of Harry Potter in Edinburgh didn’t bother me in the slightest, because it lets you see the city’s must-sees! Even though I’m a kind mum, I wouldn’t have played along so much if that hadn’t been the case. For these 3 days in Edinburgh with my young teenager, I happily researched places, anecdotes and information linked to Harry Potter to enrich a walk we would have done anyway to visit the city. My girl loved discovering these places – she who has read the Harry Potter saga four times! And I was happy to make her happy!

Some of the places below are reminiscent of the Harry Potter books, others of the films, and others again are more linked to J.K. Rowling herself. So here are these 10 Harry Potter places we saw in Edinburgh!

Victoria Street or Diagon Alley?

Victoria Street is a very beautiful historic street that links George IV Bridge diagonally with Grassmarket. A diagonal, then, like… Diagon Alley.

Even if our imagination can’t help seeing a connection with Harry Potter, that doesn’t mean J.K. Rowling had Victoria Street in mind when writing her books. However, she lived in Edinburgh, and both the atmosphere and the architecture of the city may have inspired her indirectly. Between the small colourful façades and the cobblestones, Victoria Street really does call to mind the visual world of the film.

Bonus info: you can wander through the “fake Victoria Street”, the film set, if you visit the Harry Potter Studios. We have been there 3 times, so find all our tips for visiting the Harry Potter Studios as a family.

Kew Gardens: seeing the main key attractions in half a day

Is it possible to visit Kew Gardens in half a day? Yes, we tested and approved it! Between the large glasshouses, the different gardens, the viewpoints and the “monuments” of Kew Gardens, it’s absolutely possible to enjoy a very lovely first visit in just a few hours, without feeling like you’re rushing. I’d say you need to allow 3 to 4 hours to discover London’s magnificent botanical garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

To do that, it’s best to focus on the key attractions at Kew Gardens. In this article, I’m suggesting a simple route to discover the most impressive spots in the gardens. The idea isn’t to tick everything off, but to see what makes Kew unique: its iconic glasshouses, elegant avenues, immersive spaces and landmark spots.

If you’re visiting London for only a few days, you probably won’t have more than half a day to dedicate to Kew Gardens. I’d even say that Kew Gardens will only be part of your London programme if this isn’t your first stay in London. I visited London many times before going to Kew Gardens, but this visit was enchanting – a green interlude, very different from central London. Since then, we’ve been back to Kew Gardens other times, as a family. In fact, we’ve just spent our Sunday afternoon there for the Orchid Festival, which I’ll tell you about further down.

Here are the main key attractions at Kew Gardens to see if you only have half a day.

Kew Gardens: our key attractions in half a day

The tropical glasshouse: Palm House

This is Kew Gardens’ best-known glasshouse. It’s a magnificent tropical glasshouse dating from the Victorian era. Inside, you’ll find huge palm trees and tropical plants, notably from Madagascar, as well as coffee plants, cacao trees, oil palms and rubber trees. Architecturally, the glasshouse has lovely Victorian spiral staircases, as well as a walkway that lets you admire the plants from above. Note: the Palm House will close for major works from 2027, for 5 years!

3 days on the island of Lefkada with the family

Lefkada is the latest Greek island we discovered as a family. It’s part of the Ionian Islands and is particularly easy to reach since you can get there by car via a bridge. Handy! This means you can easily combine a holiday in mainland Greece with a little beach break. As always with the Greek islands, the colour of the sea is superb – a turquoise blue that instantly makes you smile! Lefkada also has the advantage of being large enough to stay for a few days. Besides the beaches, the island offers mountainous landscapes and therefore some very pretty viewpoints all over the place. You can discover them by car or, like us, on a hike.

Let’s set off to discover Lefkada with the children!

Porto Katsiki cove with turquoise water, framed by white cliffs and pine trees — Porto Katsiki beach: our favourite beach on Lefkada!

Lefkada as a family: the beaches

To put it simply, there are the beaches on the west coast, the most beautiful – real postcard scenery but potentially a bit choppy – and there are the beaches on the east coast: nice, less paradise-like, but with very calm water.

The west coast beaches:

Kathisma Beach: a beach located in the north-west of Lefkada, near Agios Nikitas where we were staying (see our addresses further down). It’s a very beautiful beach, not to be missed at sunset.

Greece: the Vikos Gorge hike as a family

During the October half-term holidays, we visited the region of the Vikos Gorge during our road trip in northern Greece (Epirus). We were keen to go hiking and to discover a part of Greece that is still relatively unknown. The Vikos Gorge turned out to be an excellent choice! With the autumn colours, it was particularly beautiful. We stayed there for two days. Three days would have been more relaxed. Below, I’ll explain how to do the main hike in the Vikos Gorge and also show you the other places not to be missed. Finally, I’ll tell you about the lovely village of Papingo, our base camp.

The Vikos Gorge, in the Zagori region of Greece, is one of the deepest canyons in Europe, with almost 1,000 m of depth over 27 km in length.

Age of our children/teenagers: 13 and 16.

Travel period: late October.

Our family hikes in the Vikos Gorge

The Vikos Gorge, from Vikos to Monodendri ❤

12 km – 5 hours of walking – elevation in this direction: -1080 m, +1380 m – moderate but physically demanding!

This is the hike not to be missed in the region! It’s a point-to-point hike. Generally, hikers plan to return to their starting point by taxi, but we organised things differently by forming two teams: Titpuce and I walked the entire trail from Vikos to Monodendri, while Papa Voyage and Ticoeur turned back before the big climb out of the canyon. They returned to Vikos (walking very fast!), picked up the car and met us in Monodendri (there is a 40-minute drive between the two villages).

As it’s a canyon, the hike profile consists of: a long descent, a lengthy walk along the canyon floor, and a steep climb back up. It’s possible to hike from Vikos to Monodendri or from Monodendri to Vikos. I wondered which option was best, but honestly, I think it doesn’t really matter! For us, Vikos was closer to the village of Papingo where we were staying.

In terms of elevation gain, it’s tough, so even though the hike isn’t technically difficult, you need to be fit: it’s long and strenuous, with over 1,000 m to descend and 1,000 m to climb back up. Note that on the ascent towards Monodendri, it’s sometimes so steep that ropes have been installed to hold on to and avoid slipping. I was worried about this section, but it turned out to be easy. Titpuce had no problems at all. However, for younger children, it could be a bit tricky and they might need help. If you do the hike in the opposite direction, this steep section with ropes may be more difficult on the descent than on the ascent.

Here is the account of our hike in the Vikos Gorge:

We leave Papingo after breakfast and stop at the small shop in the village of Aresti to pick up some supplies. We start the hike in Vikos at 10:15 am. No problem parking the car. The view over the canyon from the start of the hike is beautiful:

Then, the descent from Vikos is easy, not too steep. After half an hour, we reach the small monastery with a lovely turquoise-coloured stream (this adds 30 minutes and 1 km to the hike).

After this first photo stop, we continue descending into the canyon. Here is the canyon floor:

Most of the distance is covered along the canyon floor. Looking up at the sides, you really feel tiny!

For now, we are still all four together. As always, Ticoeur and Titpuce chat as they walk! I really like this section with the carved rock:

Still some beautiful views up towards the heights:

Towards the end of the flat section, Ticoeur and Papa Voyage turn back to return and get the car. They challenged themselves to do the return at a brisk pace along the flat section!

With Titpuce, we continue following the trail. The views of the section climbing back up towards Monodendri are stunning!

The path is steeper, with large rocks:

Allow a good hour of intense climbing to reach Monodendri.

On arriving in the village, there are quite a few tourists sitting on the terraces (mainly Greeks). We’re surprised because we only crossed paths with two hikers in almost five hours of walking! In fact, many visitors come to the Vikos Gorge to enjoy the beautiful landscapes and viewpoints that are accessible without hiking at all! For me, that’s one more reason to go for the adventure! A hike without the crowds! We sit down on a terrace to enjoy an orange cake while waiting for Papa Voyage and Ticoeur.

And if we had to do it again? I think it’s worth booking a taxi (to be arranged in your departure village by asking at a restaurant or accommodation). That way, you can all stay together for the entire hike. An out-and-back hike doesn’t seem like a great option to me, as it’s long and the entire flat section at the bottom of the gorge would feel repetitive. For a more creative option, without a taxi, I think you’d enjoy the best views by doing just the descents and ascents (from Vikos and from Monodendri), without walking the long flat section. Overall, you wouldn’t escape the elevation gain, but you’d save time and wouldn’t need a taxi: you’d park once in Vikos and once in Monodendri!

Vradeto Steps ❤

5.2 km (out and back) – 2 hours

A real favourite hike! This old stone staircase, built in the 18th century, has a lot of charm with its narrow switchbacks set in an enchanting natural setting.

The staircase consists of 1,100 steps, built to link villages together. The hike involves climbing them and then descending. We were there just before sunset. It was beautiful and we were completely alone. We did this hike right after the Vikos Gorge hike! Yes, we’re crazy!

See the entire staircase and its switchbacks:

It was getting late, so we went for dinner after this beautiful hike. We found a very good restaurant on the drive back: Zeyxi restaurant in Elati. Then we hit the road again for Papingo (1 hour from the restaurant).

Other highlights in the Vikos Gorge:

The natural pools of Papingo:

Lovely walks following the river and its various pools. In summer, it’s possible to swim there! Perfect for relaxing after a hike!

The old Ottoman bridges:

Built entirely of stone, they are very beautiful. It’s easy to park near each bridge. We stopped at the two bridges we thought were the most impressive:

The Kokkoris Bridge:

The Kologeriko Bridge:

The Stone Forest

A short walk among these stone formations. It’s neither large nor unmissable, as you’ll find similar formations throughout the Vikos Gorge region. But it’s not far from Monodendri, so why not stop by – it’s on the way.

3 viewpoints over the Vikos Gorge

There are two viewpoints accessible by car, with just a short walk from the car park. We chose the Beloi viewpoint ❤. A stunning view! There is also the Oxya viewpoint, but it’s much further away (a one-hour detour by car).

Panorama across Vikos Gorge from Oxya — View over the Vikos Gorge from the Beloi viewpoint

Then there is the Monodendri viewpoint: it’s reached after an easy 15-minute walk, as far as the Monastery of Paraskevi:

Which village should you choose to explore the Vikos Gorge?

Three villages for discovering the Vikos Gorge:

To discover the Vikos Gorge region, it’s important to choose where to stay. There are three possible villages:

Monodendri: this is the main village, the largest and the most visited. It’s located to the south of the Vikos Gorge and is the first one you’ll come across on your route. It has a good selection of cafés and restaurants (I highly recommend lunch at Froso’s Pies: excellent and good value!). It’s very convenient for starting the hike into the Vikos Gorge.

Cobbled lane between stone houses in Monodendri — Monodendri

Aresti: the smallest of the three villages, located to the west of the gorge. Fewer accommodation and restaurant options.

Papingo: the prettiest and most picturesque. It’s located to the north of the Vikos Gorge, further away from civilisation. This is the one we chose, and we loved it! Our accommodation was great! Several restaurants in the village. The restaurant at the Astra Inn was good. Note that some restaurants were closed, as October is not high season.

Our family accommodation in Papingo:

We stayed at the Bed & Breakfast Avragonio, typical of the region, meaning lovely stone houses. All of Papingo is full of charm, and our B&B was no exception! On top of that, breakfast was gargantuan and very varied! We had a small duplex space, with the children sleeping on the sofa in the living room and us upstairs in a double bedroom. It was perfect, and we really enjoyed the outdoor areas because even at half-term, as long as we wrapped up warmly, we could have breakfast in the courtyard, with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. We stayed for two days and two nights, but we packed in several hikes on the same day. For a more relaxed pace, plan for 3 days in the Vikos Gorge.

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From Papingo, we can see Mikro Papingo above: an idea for another short hike!

Metsovo

Whether you’re arriving in the Vikos Gorge region or leaving it, you’ll probably pass close to the charming village of Metsovo. Its architecture has real character, with all its mountain chalets. Locals like to come here for lunch at the weekend. We walked around the village and then sat on a terrace in the main square for a coffee at Xnapia Café (very good!), before buying spinach pies from the excellent Tampas Bakery.

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I’ll leave you with a few final photos of the region to immerse you in the atmosphere of this rugged landscape in northern Greece!

And you? Fancy discovering the Vikos Gorge and its surroundings? Do you know this part of Greece? You can, like us, combine the Vikos Gorge with a visit to the Meteora!