We have just returned from a one-week road trip in Montenegro, travelling between the sea and the mountains. What did we have planned for this new family trip to Montenegro? Mainly national parks, time in the great outdoors and hiking, with a visit to the coast as well. Montenegro is a fantastic destination for nature lovers like us! This trip also gave us the opportunity to discover the local culture.
In eight days, we completed a big loop around this small, fascinating and endearing Balkan country. Below, I am delighted to share the details of our Montenegro itinerary and give you some advice for planning your own trip.
When we travelled: late July, during the third week of the month. It was 25°C on the coast, which suited us perfectly because we do not enjoy extreme heat. Be aware, however, that it can be much hotter: the seasonal average in July and August is around 30°C. In the mountains, temperatures were about 19°C, with cooler mornings.
Age of our children: Titpuce, aged 14, was with us, but Ticoeur could not join us because he was doing a summer internship. It was the first time we had gone on holiday as a family of three!
Our Montenegro itinerary at a glance
We completed a loop from Podgorica, the capital, travelling clockwise, although the direction does not really matter. Our itinerary combines Montenegro’s coast and mountains, with a particular focus on its national parks. These were our stops during eight days and seven nights in Montenegro:
Podgorica -> Lake Skadar (1 night) -> Budva and the surrounding area (1 night) -> Bay of Kotor (1 night) -> Durmitor National Park (2 nights) -> Grebaje Valley and Prokletije National Park (1 night) -> Biogradska Gora National Park (1 night) -> Podgorica
As usual, I have placed a little heart beside our favourite places!
Tip: If, like us, you plan to visit several national parks, buy the annual pass, which is valid throughout Montenegro. It is excellent value at €13.50 per person aged 15 or over, while children aged 0 to 14 enter free of charge. Without the annual pass, admission to each national park costs €3 to €5 per day. On our itinerary, we needed the pass for Lake Skadar National Park, Durmitor National Park, Prokletije National Park and Biogradska Gora National Park. Our passes were checked in all of them except the last.
Day 1: Arriving in Montenegro and heading to Lake Skadar
We landed at Podgorica Airport in the late afternoon. We had decided not to visit the capital and instead drove straight into the countryside towards Lake Skadar.
Driving time: 40 minutes.
Hiring a car
We collected our hire car at Podgorica Airport. Our Citroën C3 cost €220 for the week, which is more expensive than in some other southern European countries. To compare the available offers and find the best option for you, take a look at DiscoverCars. The roads are generally in excellent condition, apart from a few minor exceptions that I will mention later. One word of warning: you should feel comfortable driving on winding mountain roads.
The best view of Lake Skadar
Lake Skadar is close to Podgorica, making it an ideal first stop after arriving. The road soon becomes very scenic and passes the magnificent Pavlova Strana viewpoint ❤, which offers an incredible view of the Crnojevića River. Its meanders form a horseshoe and the river is connected to Lake Skadar. We had barely arrived in Montenegro and were already completely captivated by the natural beauty of this place. The late-afternoon light was perfect too!
We then drove a few more kilometres to our first overnight stop in the village of Rijeka Crnojevića, which shares its name with the river.
Where we stayed at Lake Skadar
We chose to stay in the small village of Rijeka Crnojevića, and we highly recommend it. We loved its location! Most visitors base themselves in Virpazar, but we wanted somewhere quieter and more charming. Rijeka Crnojevića lies in lush surroundings beside a river crossed by a small stone bridge.
Our accommodation, Riječki grad Apartments, was on the hillside, a five-minute walk from the bridge. Our balcony had a lovely view over the village and river. The studio, which sleeps two to four people, was simple, very clean and comfortable.
Our host recommended Konoba Obod, and it was perfect: a delightful, inexpensive restaurant beside the water, overlooking the bridge. We tried the local trout and ended the day beneath a starry sky.
Day 2: Lake Skadar, a boat trip and vineyards, then on to Budva
Route: from Rijeka Crnojevića to Budva via Cetinje, approximately one hour’s drive.
A boat trip on Lake Skadar
At 9 am, we set off for the most popular activity on Lake Skadar: a boat trip ❤. There are several operators in the village. We went with a friend of our host, whose prices were the same as those displayed in the village.
Prices are fairly similar, although there is some room for negotiation. You pay per boat and according to the length of your chosen trip. There are many different durations and routes, with most tours lasting between one and three hours. We chose a 90-minute private trip for €75 and asked the boatman to take us to the most natural areas. Other options focus more on villages and monasteries:
- If you are staying in Rijeka Crnojevića, ask your host for advice or visit the kiosks beside the river.
- If you are staying in Virpazar, you can book a boat trip with Kingfisher, one of the main operators and recommended by Lonely Planet, or ask your host for advice.
During the boat trip, we saw the lake’s famous carpets of water lilies and many birds, including cormorants, cranes, herons and even kingfishers. The scenery is beautiful and wonderfully peaceful. Titpuce loved it and took more than 200 photos! Our route followed the lake’s narrower sections and small river channels, adding a sense of adventure.
Towards the end of the trip, we stopped for a swim. The water was a very pleasant 23°C.
Visiting a vineyard at Lake Skadar
Back in the car, we explored the shores of Lake Skadar, stopping here and there before choosing one of the many vineyards around the lake. The Lake Skadar region is renowned for its wine. At Mrkan, we had a lunchtime tasting accompanied by a platter of Montenegrin ham and cheese. It cost €20 per adult and was free for children. The tasting was extremely generous, making it impossible to enjoy everything when you still had to drive! There were six different wines, plus a choice of liqueurs and fruit brandies. It is a shame they do not offer a lighter option.
Cetinje, Montenegro’s former capital
The road from Lake Skadar to the coast passes through Cetinje, Montenegro’s former capital, which is a rather small and quiet town. We took a short walk through the centre and entered the monastery. Large scarves are available at the entrance to cover your shoulders and legs if necessary. We then had a coffee on a terrace along the main street before continuing our journey.
Budva and the surrounding area
We included Budva in our itinerary so that we could have at least one swim in the sea. Cautiously, I had allowed only the end of the day on the coast, and thankfully so. There were enormous crowds, heavy traffic and the beaches we saw were packed. In the end, we did not even feel like swimming in those conditions. Our swim in Lake Skadar that same morning had been so magical!
Nevertheless, we had an enjoyable evening on the Riviera:
- Because everyone was at the beach, Budva’s old town was relatively peaceful. It is tiny but attractive, with cobbled lanes and fortified walls.
- We walked along the coastal path between Fort Mogren, where there is a free car park, and Budva’s old town. It takes about 25 minutes each way. This is the best way to reach Budva’s fortress while avoiding the traffic and parking difficulties. The walk is easy and pleasant, passing small but very crowded beaches and then the Dancing Girl statue.
- Back in the car, we went to see the islet of Sveti Stefan. It is a hotel and cannot be visited, so we admired it from the road.
- Finally, we had dinner at Konoba More, a fish restaurant beside the sea at Pržno Beach. It was very good! Be warned that finding somewhere to park is extremely difficult. We were lucky.
Where we stayed in Budva
We stayed on the hillside above Budva, far enough from the coast to enjoy some peace and quiet, and at a much lower price. We loved being away from the bustle while enjoying an incredible view from our enormous terrace. Our simple but comfortable stone apartment is listed on Airbnb by Olga Lapčići. If it is unavailable, look for other places to stay in Budva, and make sure yours comes with a parking space.
Day 3: Kotor
Route from Budva to Kotor via the beautiful serpentine road: about one hour, excluding photo stops.
The serpentine road
You need to be comfortable with very tight bends, but the effort is amply rewarded by impressive views over the Bay of Kotor. Fortunately, “Papa Voyage” enjoys winding roads! We stopped repeatedly at the designated pull-ins to admire the panoramas. Take your time, drive carefully and enjoy the views.
If you do not like winding roads, do not worry: the hike described below also offers magnificent views. If you do not like hiking either, there is always the cable car to Mount Lovćen.
Hiking the Ladder of Kotor
Starting point: north of the old town, to the left of the fortress. Duration: about three hours return. Strenuous but technically easy.
You know us: we love hiking! I had therefore picked out the Ladder of Kotor hike ❤, an excellent alternative to paying to visit the city walls. During our first visit to Montenegro, we had climbed through the fortress and up its 1,400 steps. Admission has since become rather expensive for what it is, in my opinion, at €15. This time, we preferred to walk on the other side of the wall along this zigzagging trail:
The advantages of the Ladder of Kotor hike:
- It is free.
- You still enjoy splendid views over the Bay of Kotor.
- You can climb higher than the paid section, although you do not have to.
- There is a friendly refreshment stall with a view along the way.
- There are very few people.
Important: There used to be a passage through a window in the wall from the free section into the paid section, but it has now been sealed. If you also want to visit the paid section, you must descend completely and climb again using the steps.
Walking through Kotor’s old town
In the evening, after dinner, we climbed onto the walls, walked around the old town and then wandered through its lively lanes. It was busy but still enjoyable.
Where we stayed in Kotor
In Kotor, we stayed in a residential neighbourhood outside the old town in a simple apartment at Monte Bay Apartments. Its small balcony offered a lovely distant view. Whatever accommodation you choose, make sure it includes a parking space, as parking is otherwise very difficult.
For dinner, we drove a few minutes to Dobrota, a suburb of Kotor with several fish restaurants beside the water. We ate at Bonazza, which has a beautiful location and serves very good calamari.
Day 4: On the road to Durmitor
Driving time from Kotor to Durmitor: about three hours, plus another hour if you detour via Ostrog Monastery.
The Bay of Kotor
Before joining the road towards the mountains, we drove along the Bay of Kotor through Perast, which we already knew from a previous trip. We simply took a photo from the roadside because the car park costs €15 for the day and is worthwhile only if you plan a long stop. We did, however, stop in the next village, peaceful Risan, for a coffee beside the water. It was our last opportunity for a swim before reaching the mountains.
Continuing north, we passed the attractive lakes of Slano jezero and Krupačko jezero. We stopped for a coffee overlooking one and a snack overlooking the other.
Ostrog Monastery
Roughly halfway to Durmitor, we made a one-hour detour to see this beautiful monastery built into the mountain. The well-maintained access road is another winding one. We had not realised that Ostrog Monastery is one of Montenegro’s most important pilgrimage sites, rather like Lourdes in France. As we visited at the weekend, there were enormous numbers of pilgrims. Some walked barefoot from the large car park to the monastery, while others slept on the site. Surrounded by people who had sometimes come in search of a miracle, we did not feel entirely comfortable. Out of respect, we decided to leave without entering the monastery. Try to visit on a weekday and ideally outside the main season to avoid arriving during a major pilgrimage.
Black Lake
Loop around the lake: 40 minutes. Park free of charge in Žabljak and walk for 30 minutes, or use the closer paid car park.
On arriving in Durmitor National Park, we began with its most popular short walk: the loop around Black Lake ❤. It really is beautiful and photogenic, with emerald and turquoise water surrounded by fir trees.
Where we stayed in Durmitor National Park
We slept in an A-frame cabin at Vila Durmitorska Bajka*. Almost all the accommodation in the area is built in this style. We loved ours because it was particularly attractive, new and comfortable.
Five minutes from our accommodation, we had dinner at Izvor, a mountain-lodge-style restaurant serving traditional food.
Day 5: Hiking in Durmitor National Park
Climbing Bobotov Kuk ❤
4 hours 45 minutes return, although 6 to 8 hours is the advertised time. 1,000 metres of elevation gain. Parking at the trailhead. Difficulty: hard.
We loved climbing Bobotov Kuk, the highest summit in Durmitor at 2,524 metres. The scenery is beautiful and the 360-degree view from the top is magnificent. Be careful: the hike is considered difficult because a few sections involve some scrambling, and it is important to remain on the trail. Cables have been installed, making these sections secure. Nevertheless, we saw several people turn back because of the slightly technical passages or a fear of heights. The final section is the most intimidating. Do not worry, though: you will see wonderful scenery even if you do not reach the summit. Titpuce felt completely at ease, and we are accustomed to this kind of hike.
The Tara Canyon ❤
One hour return to the Ćurevac viewpoint; easy.
After a quick bite at the Mountain Bite kiosk in Žabljak, which serves good sandwiches, we continued with a short walk to a viewpoint over the Tara Canyon ❤. It is an impressive sight, with the Tara River far below and green mountains ahead.
Day 6: The panoramic road to Prokletije National Park
Driving time: 3 hours 30 minutes.
This was a day on the road with very little scheduled: the journey was the destination.
Views of the Tara River and Đurđevića Tara Bridge
Our first stop after leaving Durmitor was at Đurđevića Tara Bridge, where we admired the Tara River once again. It is attractive, although not as impressive as the view from Ćurevac. Part of the bridge was under repair, but we could still walk roughly halfway across it and enjoy the views.
The most popular activity here is crossing the canyon on a zip wire. Titpuce and I were too frightened, so we simply watched everyone else. Children and teenagers generally love it.
Arriving near the Albanian border
We continued along the panoramic road to the small town of Plav and its lake. A new region brought a new religion, and we passed numerous mosques built from wood and stone, perhaps in the local mountain style. From Plav and its lake, only a few kilometres remained before our next stop.
After arriving, we had lunch on the terrace at Mountain View Resort, which offers local specialities and friendly, efficient service. We then explored the surrounding area:
- The Ali Pasha Springs at Gusinje, a beautiful place with numerous natural springs.
- The small Grlja Waterfall at Vusanje.
Where we stayed for Prokletije National Park
We stayed in another A-frame cabin in Vusanje, this time with a modern design: A&R Cottages. We liked it very much. The final few metres are along an unpaved track, but you simply need to drive slowly.
Day 7: Hiking in Grebaje Valley and sleeping in a katun
The Three Peaks hike in Grebaje Valley
9-kilometre circular route, 1,000 metres of elevation gain, moderate level: strenuous but without any particular technical difficulty. We completed it in four hours, although the advertised time is six hours.
Grebaje Valley is still relatively little visited and mainly attracts hikers.
The Three Peaks hike ❤ is reputed to be one of the most beautiful hikes in the Balkans. It was the walk that made me want to return to Montenegro! The route follows the heart of Grebaje Valley in Prokletije National Park and crosses three summits, Volušnica, Talijanka and Popadija, which form a magnificent curved ridge. This is right on the border with Albania.
It is a superb hike! Unfortunately, the weather was not ideal because clouds settled over the summits. The route begins with a climb through the forest, followed by a crossing of a lush pasture to reach the ridge. You then follow the ridge, with numerous views of the Karanfili massif. We walked anticlockwise so that the ascent would be steeper and the descent gentler, which is better for our knees.
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We set off for our next and final stop: Biogradska Gora National Park.
Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes.
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A night on a farm in Biogradska Gora National Park
We reached the national park at about 4 pm and did not have time to explore it. Instead, we took a short one-hour walk around our accommodation. I had included this stop because I wanted to stay with farmers in a katun, a traditional mountain settlement. It was an opportunity to end our road trip with an authentic experience off the beaten track. We drove along a stony track for a good half-hour to reach Danka’s small farm. She keeps a few cows and makes dairy products. Dinner is served at a large shared table with the handful of other visitors who have come here to get away from it all.
We enjoyed being cut off from the world, even if only for one evening: no Wi-Fi, no mobile data, a starry sky and lovely encounters over dinner. You can find our little stone cottage on Airbnb at Danka’s farm.
Day 8: From Biogradska Gora National Park to Podgorica
Driving time: 1 hour 40 minutes.
Montenegro’s little Niagara Falls
After a peaceful morning admiring the countryside around the farm, we drove towards Podgorica. We continued beyond the capital for one final stop at Montenegro’s “Niagara Falls”. The name is, of course, an exaggeration: expect simply a lovely waterfall. It is often dry in summer, but thanks to a thunderstorm the previous night, the water was extremely powerful during our visit. It is not unmissable, merely a pleasant option about 15 minutes from the airport.
Close to the waterfall, we had lunch beneath the trees at Votra, a café popular with local people. They serve very good, freshly made and extremely inexpensive bureks, filled with either meat or spinach and cheese.
Tips for organising your Montenegro road trip
Optimising the itinerary
Based on our route, here are several possible alternatives:
- If I planned the trip again, I would remove our stop in Budva and add an extra night at Lake Skadar. In late July, Budva, Pržno and Sveti Stefan were packed. Despite the beautiful sea, we did not enjoy the crowded little beaches with their dense rows of private sunbeds and parasols.
- If you want to explore the Riviera, try to travel earlier in the season, perhaps during the first half of July, or outside summer in spring or autumn. Otherwise, I would recommend no more than one night during high season. Another option would be to explore different parts of the coast, such as the less touristy Luštica Peninsula or Ulcinj, which has the advantage of a larger beach.
- Lake Skadar was one of our favourite places. To enjoy it properly, allow two nights rather than one.
- With one extra day, I would add another night in Prokletije National Park. It is a magnificent area off the beaten track, and we could have completed another long hike.
- Would you like to disconnect completely? Add another night at the farm.
- What if you do not want to hike? No problem! You can follow the same road trip and enjoy it just as much. Many viewpoints are accessible by car, and short walks are possible everywhere. You can also take boat trips around the Bay of Kotor and Lake Skadar, and visit monasteries, towns and vineyards.
- Combining Croatia and Montenegro in one itinerary? We did this during our first visit 14 years ago, when we explored Dubrovnik and the surrounding area before continuing to the Bay of Kotor. It was not very touristy at the time, and we travelled in October. I would not recommend it nowadays for two reasons: crossing the border can reportedly take many hours in summer, and car hire will often be more expensive.
Your checklist
- Buy the annual pass for all the national parks to avoid paying separately each day.
- Check your mobile phone plan: Montenegro is often not included. If necessary, buy an eSIM.
- Carry cash in euros: We had to pay for almost all our accommodation in cash on arrival, and roughly half the restaurants did not accept cards. You can withdraw money locally, but cash-machine fees are high at €6 or €7.
- Download a free map of Montenegro to your phone so that you can always find your way, even without a signal. We use Organic Maps.
A family road trip in Montenegro?
The advantages for families
Montenegro is popular with families because it is a peaceful country where you feel very safe. It also offers a good mix of activities, mainly focused on nature. These were the things our 14-year-old Titpuce enjoyed most:
- Lake Skadar and its water lilies: her favourite part of the trip! She loved the boat ride and the scenery. The boats have roofs to provide shade, making them ideal with children.
- Hiking in general: Our children have been hiking since they were very young and enjoy it. There are trails for every level. Children with little walking experience can enjoy short, easy routes such as the one around Black Lake or those in Biogradska Gora National Park, where they will also enjoy sleeping on a farm or mountain pasture.
- She enjoyed the food: She liked the grilled meat dishes and fresh pomegranate juice.
Other activities that children enjoy include zip-lining above the Tara River and a boat trip around the Bay of Kotor.
The disadvantages for families
The only disadvantage I can see is that several roads are very winding. If your children suffer from travel sickness, this may be difficult.
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What about you? Would you like to take a road trip through Montenegro? Are there any other parts of the country you would recommend?
These will also tempt you if you like to go hiking on vacation:
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