Off to Aix-en-Provence with the family! We have been several times to this lovely town in Provence, the town of Paul Cezanne, but also the town of my Pepe, who lives in a village nearby 🙂 It is a place that is particularly close to my heart. In any case, it is always a pleasure to return to Aix-en-Provence, ideal for a family city trip: a very beautiful destination, gentle and easy-going, with art, markets and the added charm of Provence. I recommend spending 2 days in Aix-en-Provence during a holiday in Provence, or at least one full day!
As we go back to Aix-en-Provence regularly, this article is a compilation of our different stays there. Here are our favourite visits in Aix and nearby.
Visiting the centre of Aix-en-Provence with kids:
The old town of Aix-en-Provence ❤ is very picturesque. Its narrow streets help keep things cool in summer. The pale yellow and ochre tones of the facades bring sunshine into the town, as if there were not already enough in the sky! The old town has a lot of charm and it is very pleasant to wander around on foot. There is a little hint of Italy in the air, don’t you think? As you stroll, you pass through squares that invite you to slow down, and past very beautiful fountains: Aix-en-Provence is nicknamed “the city of a thousand fountains”. In reality, there are more like a good hundred, but you know how generous people from the South can be with rhetorical flourishes!
Among the squares not to miss in Aix, I would mention Place des Cardeurs, with its lovely terraces for lunch or dinner in summer, Place d’Albertas (and its fountain), which is very charming, Place de l’Hotel de Ville with its beautiful building, Place des Augustins, and the small Place des Ormeaux. Finally, in the Mazarin district south of Cours Mirabeau, the prettiest square is probably Place des Quatre Dauphins, with the fountain of the same name.
Place des Cardeurs
Place d’Albertas
Aix-en-Provence Town Hall and its 16th-century Clock Tower
During this walk through the centre, you will come across Saint-Sauveur Cathedral, with its Gothic facade. It is worth going inside to admire three beautiful naves in three different styles: Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque. Also worth seeing: the 5th-century baptistery, with its octagonal shape. It was built on the site of the former Roman forum. The cloister is charming too.
Finally, Aix-en-Provence’s own “Champs-Elysees” is Cours Mirabeau, which runs along the edge of the old town and begins with the large Fontaine de la Rotonde:
The markets in Aix-en-Provence:
On Saturday morning, we made sure not to miss the different markets in the old town. My little girl loved the flower market (Place de l’Hotel de Ville – Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays) and of course she asked us to buy a huge bouquet for her great-grandfather!
Then we moved on to the fruit and vegetable market (Place Richelme – every day). All those stalls of local produce are a pleasure for the eyes. They make you want to buy everything and start cooking!
A visit to the Caumont Art Centre:
We visited this lovely museum located in Hotel de Caumont ❤. First of all, the building itself is a superb 18th-century mansion where you can discover period rooms. In addition, the art centre hosts two major art exhibitions each year. The whole place is not too large, so it works well for an artistic family visit.
2026 update: this year, there is the exhibition “The Collector’s Eye”, including works by Caillebotte, Manet and Renoir (until 22 March 2026). Then there will be a Toulouse-Lautrec exhibition from 24 April to 4 October 2026. See information on the Caumont Art Centre website. The garden, with its cafe and flowers, is very pleasant for a sunny break.
The Calisson Museum: perfect for children!
The visit to the Calisson Museum at the Roy Rene factory is interesting and free! Ticoeur and Titpuce enjoyed discovering everything about calissons. Upstairs, there is a small interactive exhibition. Guides give a few explanations about the history and ingredients of calissons. You can taste a mini calisson and, above all, do some shopping in the large boutique. These calissons are very good!
Pavillon Noir for dance fans:
We passed in front of the Pavillon Noir, home to the dance school of choreographer Preljocaj, of whom I am a big fan. I never miss any of his shows in Paris, but one day I would love to attend a rehearsal or a performance at the Pavillon Noir, his home base. During our visit, there was indeed a Preljocaj ballet in Aix. We bought tickets, but to make the most of summer, the performance was not held at the Pavillon Noir but at the very beautiful open-air Theatre de l’Archeveche.
Le Pavillon Noir
Discovering the great painters of Aix-en-Provence:
If you like painting, and your children do too, then in Aix-en-Provence and the surrounding area you will be spoilt for choice! Choose one or two visits depending on the length of your stay:
- Cezanne’s Studio: this is the best-known visit in Aix. The studio is located on a hill from where the artist could see Sainte-Victoire, which inspired him so much! It is normally open from early June to late October, but the 2026 dates have not yet been announced. Allow around 30 minutes for the visit. If you are fans of the painter, there is also the Cezanne trail through the town (follow the golden studs on the ground).
- The Vasarely Foundation: in a very different style of painting, this museum displays the large geometric and colourful works of the artist Victor Vasarely.
- Chateau La Coste: modern art installations among the vineyards north of Aix-en-Provence (see below, in the surrounding area)
- Chateau de Vauvenargues, where Picasso lived: we had the chance to visit it a long time ago. Sadly, this chateau is no longer open to the public, but it is a wonderful memory for us and I hope it will reopen in the future!
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What to see around Aix-en-Provence?
Sainte-Victoire ❤:
Without the children, as a couple, we set off one morning just after 7 am to climb the superb Sainte-Victoire while it was still cool: we had missed hiking at a brisk pace!
Chateau La Coste ❤: a superb art visit among the vineyards
Thirty minutes from Aix-en-Provence, here is one of our favourite visits! Chateau La Coste is a beautiful vineyard that you visit not only for its wine, but above all for the many art sculptures dotted throughout the vines. We spent a good two hours there, walking from one sculpture to the next. The children enjoyed these works of art, which are huge and varied. A perfect family visit! The following photos were taken a few years later, during another family stay in Aix-en-Provence: the children had grown!
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Our good addresses in Aix-en-Provence:
Accommodation in Aix:
Just outside Aix-en-Provence, La Ferme guesthouse is one of our favourite addresses! A superb garden, pretty Provencal decor and breakfast. All this just a quarter of an hour from Aix by car. To visit the centre of Aix-en-Provence, everything can be done on foot, so leave your car in one of the large paid car parks (we often use the Rotonde car park).
Restaurants in central Aix:
- Le Maryse: quiches, savoury tarts and cakes.
- Le Miollis: a relaxed terrace, a bistro menu and reasonable prices.
- Le Ramus: a lovely brasserie with a terrace.
Where to buy calissons?
I love them and so do the children! I recommend the Calissoun stall at the market, or the Philippe Segond shop on Cours Mirabeau, or La Fabrique du Roy Rene (see above).
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After all that, in the evening, a little Ricard with my Pepe felt well deserved, didn’t it? Once again, it feels good to return to one’s roots, especially as my Pepe is approaching 100 years old, so he carries the memory of so many years I never knew. I particularly love it when he tells me about his youth, with the song of the cicadas as background music.
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And you? Have you visited Aix-en-Provence with your family?
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