Mexico with children: a 10-day Yucatán itinerary

Here is, at last, the story of our 10-day family trip around the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico. We had already travelled there without the children on our honeymoon and were eager to return with them. Yucatán offers a perfect blend of culture and nature. It is wonderfully different: from idyllic beaches and Maya temples to colonial towns, we had a fantastic holiday! I am publishing this post rather late, but with Día de Muertos approaching, I felt inspired to revisit these lovely memories. Choosing an itinerary is never easy, so I hope the details of our Mexican road trip will inspire you and make planning a similar journey easier!

Puerto Morelos

Journey: from Cancún Airport to Puerto Morelos : 20 minutes

1 night

A relaxed arrival in Puerto Morelos:

We chose Puerto Morelos for our first night in Mexico because our flight arrived late and we did not want a long drive after the journey. We had no particular expectations beyond the convenience of the stop, but Puerto Morelos turned out to be a delightful little fishing town.

After our first night, we walked along the long beach and settled into an excellent seafront restaurant for our first Mexican lunch: Chez Boquinete. It was delicious!

We then went for our first swim. The sea was 28°C. It was a little choppy and the sky overcast, but we could still see a few fish with our masks and snorkels. Afterwards, we set off for Chiquilá to catch the ferry to Holbox.

Where we stayed in Puerto Morelos:

We stayed at Amar Inn. It is simple but full of local character, welcoming and brightly decorated, with a pleasant little garden where breakfast is served:

Holbox: our tropical favourite!

Journey from Puerto Morelos to Chiquilá (2 hours by road), followed by the ferry to Holbox (30 minutes; 500 pesos per person).

We left the car in a car park in Chiquilá (50 pesos per day) before boarding the ferry. On reaching Holbox, we found that some streets were slightly flooded after the rain. This often happens at this time of year and we knew to expect it. We did not regret coming at all: although walking around was awkward, better weather was forecast and we immediately fell under the spell ofHolbox : gorgeous beach sand, street art along the little roads and a lovely atmosphere. We were only a few days away from El Dia de Muertos , so there were also plenty of decorations and altars honouring the dead.

What we did on Holbox:

2 nights

We absolutely loved Holbox. Here is what we saw and enjoyed:

• Punta Mosquito ❤: we took the long walk along the beach to Punta Mosquito. Sublime — so much white sand! The walk took us 1½ hours. Along the way we saw flamingos and beautiful shells in the sand.

• Playa Holbox : the central beach, where we swam and bought coconuts to cool down.

• Punta Coco : another lovely walk to a different tip of the island. It is not quite as pretty as Punta Mosquito because there is more seaweed, but the final stretch is very wild. We saw more flamingos and iguanas.

• Punta Coco after dark! Yes, we went back at night to show the children the bioluminescent plankton. There was not much of it, but Ticoeur and Titpuce had never seen it before, so they were fascinated and loved our nocturnal adventure. A word of warning: we were glad we had walked the route in daylight first, as it is extremely dark and you can easily wonder where you are going. We were also lucky to have a full moon and lots of stars, but a torch is essential.
• The centre and its street art, with a touch of Dia de Muertos because we visited in late October:

• Flooded streets! This is what some of our walks around Holbox looked like — not every street, thankfully. You simply take off your shoes 🙂

• Our favourite places: Painapol for breakfast (excellent fruit bowls), Carolinda Beach Club for happy hour, and a taco stall on Calle Mokieres.

Where we stayed on Holbox:

We stayed in a charming Airbnb a long way from the centre, so reaching the town and beaches involved a fair walk — not easy with the enormous puddles left by the recent rains. It was worth it, though: our flat was beautifully decorated and had an incredible view over the lagoon!

Valladolid during Día de Muertos

Journey from Holbox to Valladolid : 30 minutes by ferry, then 2 hours by road.

We left Holbox on the midday ferry. Once we had collected the car, we headed towards Valladolid and stopped en route for delicious roadside ceviche at El Buen Sabor del Caribe.

We spent 2 nights in Valladolid. Here is what we visited in the town and surrounding area:

Exploring Valladolid

• The main square: Parque Francisco Cantón Rosado. We stayed very close by and loved its atmosphere.

• Día de Muertos : We stayed in Valladolid during Día de Muertos . We saw beautiful altars to the dead around the old town, especially on Calzada de los Frailes , a charming cobbled street lined with colourful houses, shops and restaurants.

• San Bernardino de Siena Convent: after dark, we sat opposite this former 16th-century convent to watch a light show telling the town’s history from the Maya period onwards.

• Zací Cenote : it is not the most beautiful cenote, but it is free and right in town, so it is worth seeing.

• Casa de los Venados ❤ : this museum on the main square was a wonderful surprise. It houses the private collection of an American expatriate, who assembled an extensive and colourful collection of Mexican art. The guided tour lasts an hour and our volunteer guide was fascinating. Admission fees support local charities.

Where we stayed in Valladolid:

We stayed just a stone’s throw from the main square at Casa Tía Micha : a large split-level family room, an inner garden, breakfast and a warm welcome. An excellent address!

We devoted a full day to exploring the area around Valladolid, with these three stops:

Ik Kil Cenote ❤

We loved this cenote. It is the most beautiful one we have visited, on this trip or our previous stay. The natural setting is magnificent and swimming there was pure joy. The cenote is roughly 60 metres wide and 45 metres deep, with 30-metre-high walls covered in vegetation. Its intense turquoise water, hanging vines and peaceful atmosphere made the experience unforgettable. We went early in the morning after breakfast in Valladolid to avoid the crowds; allow 40 minutes for the drive. Everything is very tidy and well organised, with lockers and changing rooms. Admission was 200 pesos per person when we visited.

Izamal, the yellow city

After Ik Kil Cenote, we were very close to Chichén Itzá, but decided to visit Izamal first so that we would not reach the archaeological site at its busiest time. Allow an hour’s drive from Ik Kil. Izamal is an entirely yellow colonial city — visually striking. Thanks to its beautifully preserved centre, Izamal was designated a Pueblo Mágico in 2001. On our first trip to Mexico, this stop left a bitter taste because I suffered severe food poisoning after eating in a restaurant. Traumatised, I became fixated this time on eating at the market with the locals and choosing the busiest stall rather than a restaurant. A safe bet! Our plans in Izamal :

• Admire the yellow façades and in particular the architecture of San Antonio de Padua Convent

• Lunch at the market: delicious tacos!
• Climb the ruins of the Kinich Kakmó pyramid: this was Ticoeur and Titpuce’s first Maya pyramid of the trip. Admission is free and it is in central Izamal. Do not miss it!

Chichén Itzá ❤

From Izamal to Chichén Itzá : 1 hour 15 minutes by car; allow 45 minutes for the return to Valladolid.

This is Mexico’s best-known Maya site. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Papa Voyage and I had already visited Chichén Itzá on our honeymoon, and we enjoyed it just as much the second time. Visitors can no longer climb the pyramids, which is entirely understandable for conservation. The site is extremely popular, but from experience we knew it is quieter shortly before closing, so we aimed to visit between 3 and 5 p.m. The children loved it, especially the majestic Pyramid of Kukulcán. We experienced every kind of weather, from bright sunshine to a downpour. Check information and opening times on the official Chichén Itzá website. Allow 2 hours for your visit.

Bacalar

Journey from Valladolid to Bacalar : 4 hours by car, with plenty of potholes.

We spent 3 nights in Bacalar.

What we did in Bacalar

Bacalar is known for its freshwater lagoon in many shades of blue. The lagoon contains stromatolites, ancient living formations that look like large flat stones. It is important to protect them by keeping away from them. These activities allowed us to make the most of Bacalar Lagoon.

• Swimming from the jetties : we swam from the large public jetty, mainly used by locals, as well as from the jetty at our accommodation (see below).
• Kayaking : our accommodation provided kayaks. We found it a lovely, relaxing way to explore the lagoon.

• A sailing trip on the lagoon : a classic way to explore Bacalar. We booked a sailboat with a skipper for three hours. We had a lovely time, although it was fairly expensive. Group trips are available on a smaller budget. Here is an example of a sailing trip on the lagoon and an example of a motorboat trip. You can also easily find a tour once you arrive.

• Los Rápidos: we enjoyed floating with the current through this channel south of the lagoon. Access is private and cost 200 pesos per person when we visited. There is a restaurant, although we were not interested in it. We did, however, thoroughly enjoy the river and went around three times. A wooden walkway takes you to the starting point and gives you a good view of the stromatolites. Then you get into the water and let the current carry you. Recommended!

• Restaurants in Bacalar: we loved having a drink at La Playita for its lagoon-side setting. For dinner, we thoroughly enjoyed Chiltepin : octopus, ceviche, prawn aguachiles and delicious margaritas for the parents!

Where we stayed in Bacalar

We were delighted with our accommodation in a beautiful collection of cabins on stilts beside the lagoon at Bluebayou Bacalar :

Calakmul ❤ : our expedition from Bacalar

We made the return trip to Calakmul from Bacalar in a single day. It is demanding because you need to start extremely early. We considered spending a night closer to Calakmul (I had spotted Cabañas Aldea Maya), but ultimately did not want to change accommodation for just one night. Before setting off for Calakmul, make sure the archaeological site is open — you would not want to drive all that way for nothing. See the site information and opening times and prices.

Here is how we organised the day:

• We left Bacalar at 5 a.m. It was dark, though not for long: dawn arrived at about 5.40. The road was empty and easy, but stay alert and do not drive too fast in case of potholes.
• After three hours on Route 186, we reached the entrance to the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve, which is clearly signposted. It was 7 a.m. because the clocks went back one hour when we crossed from Quintana Roo into Campeche state.
• A few kilometres beyond the entrance, we stopped at the office to buy our tickets.
• The distance between the park entrance and the archaeological-site car park is 60 km. The road was in very good condition and the lush vegetation made it an atmospheric drive.
• At 8.30 a.m. we reached the car park. We visited the small museum, then set off through the Calakmul jungle to admire its great pyramids. Calakmul to admire its great pyramids!

We loved this Maya site, with its imposing pyramids and dense tropical vegetation. During our visit, climbing some structures was still permitted, but rules can change, so check the current restrictions before you go. The views from above were breathtaking. We spent 3½ hours there. Towards the end of the circuit, we heard howler monkeys and then spotted them a little farther on.

• Noon: back to the car.
• Lunch in a small roadside café in Becán.
• Back in Bacalar at around 5 p.m. for a well-earned swim in the lagoon!

The Riviera Maya (Akumal, Tulum and Playa del Carmen)

Journey from Bacalar to Akumal : 4 hours by car.

2 nights in Akumal

Akumal

• The turtle business! We already knew that you have to pay an entrance fee to access Akumal Beach, which is famous for the turtles often spotted in the sea. Our host gave us a useful tip: instead of paying the entrance fee, it is better to go to the Lol-Ha restaurant, as ordering something there gives you access to the beach and a locker to store your belongings. So we went there for juices and cocktails (very good ones!) late in the afternoon. Unfortunately, we had no luck in the water: we didn’t see a single turtle! Large groups of tourists pay a lot of money to go on guided snorkelling tours, but we didn’t choose that option. Bear in mind that you might also see turtles in Tulum or Puerto Morelos, and probably elsewhere too, so there’s no need to splash out at Akumal, which has become far too commercialised.

• We had dinner at Buena Vida ❤, an excellent open-air restaurant by the sea. The setting is gorgeous. There was karaoke, so I even sang a little ABBA!

• Where we stayed: this lovely Airbnb near Akumal, in a quiet location with beautiful modern rooms. Close to our accommodation were two tiny cenotes, Xaxaal Tun and Sutuul-ha. They are not worth a special detour, but stop if they are on your route.

Tulum ❤

Papa Voyage and I already knew this archaeological site too. It is busy, but these seaside ruins are well worth seeing. The setting is incredible. Was Tulum the Maya people’s ‘Club Med’? 🙂

We followed our visit with a swim at Tulum beach — and no, it did not rain!

Cenote Azul ❤

This cenote is completely different from Ik Kil Cenote because it is entirely open. We loved the colour of the water and the large pools. Arrive at opening time to enjoy it before the crowds: it can become very busy because it is easy to reach and lies at the heart of the Riviera Maya tourist area.

Playa del Carmen

As our flight was in the early evening, we spent a few hours in Playa del Carmenon the way to the airport. It is not our usual kind of town, but the centre was pleasant: Quinta Avenida with its shops, and Parque Los Fundadores by the sea, with its Portal Maya sculpture. Finally, we visited the small Frida Kahlo Museum. It cannot compare with Frida’s house in Mexico City, but it was interesting.

Tips for planning your Yucatán road trip

Driving in Yucatán

We found driving around the Yucatán Peninsula easy and practical. With children, it seems the best transport option. Here are a few useful points:

• Our hire car cost US$34 per day. Compare offers on DiscoverCars. We did not need an international driving permit.
• The roads were generally in good condition, but there were occasional large potholes, especially between Bacalar and the Riviera Maya. It is best not to drive too fast. Locals generally know where the holes are, so watching when they slow down can also help.
• Driving at night is not recommended because the roads are unlit. We only drove for about an hour in darkness when leaving early for Calakmul, and that stretch was in excellent condition.

Other transport

• Buses: we used buses on our first trip and found them limiting. In particular, we could not reach Calakmul and struggled to return from Chichén Itzá late in the day. Travelling between the main towns was straightforward, but as a family we chose a car and did not regret it.
• The Maya Train: this major transport project has not always proved convenient for travellers, as stations are often far from the main sights. Check current routes and connections when planning.

Variations on our itinerary

Our itinerary offered wonderful variety: the idyllic island ofHolbox, Mexican culture in Valladolid, the beauty of Maya sites, the cenotes, and finally the Caribbean coast. If you have more time and this is your first trip to Mexico, I would also add:

• Mérida, the capital of Yucatán, especially if you visit for Día de Muertos , when there are large parades.
• The archaeological site of Uxmal : it is magnificent. We visited it on our first trip. It lies about an hour south of Mérida.

Time-zone changes

• Yucatán and Campeche states are one hour behind Quintana Roo. The difference from the UK varies with British Summer Time, so check the local times for your dates.
• Valladolid, Mérida, Izamal and Calakmul use Central Standard Time.
• The Riviera Maya and Holbox, in Quintana Roo, use Eastern Standard Time.
• Keep this in mind when planning your days. We crossed a time-zone boundary three times during our trip.

When is the best time to visit Yucatán?

• Late October to early November worked well for us, although showers are possible at the end of the rainy season. Overall, the weather was hot and sunny, and we enjoyed the atmosphere of Dia de Muertos.

• December to Februaryusually brings the best weather, but also larger crowds and much higher prices.
• May and June can be a good shoulder-season option before the rains intensify.

A family road trip in Yucatán?

We think the Yucatán Peninsula is one of the easiest parts of Mexico for a family trip. It feels more developed, getting around is straightforward, and there is a high concentration of sights that genuinely interest children. These were Ticoeur and Titpuce’s favourites:

• Calakmul, for its wild setting, imposing pyramids and howler monkeys.
• Ik Kil Cenote with its spectacular hanging vines.
• Holbox, for its atmosphere and white sand.
• Mexican food and the delicious fruit juices.
• The jetty at our Bacalar Lagoon accommodation and its hammocks in the water !

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Would you be tempted by a family road trip around Yucatán? 

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