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4 days in Naples as a family

Here is the story of our stay in Naples with family during the February holidays. This was our last trip to date. We didn’t yet suspect that the following ones were going to skip. However, it was precisely while we were in Naples that northern Italy made headlines because the virus began to spread dangerously in Venice and Milan. At the time, far from imagining what would happen next, we told ourselves that we were damn lucky to have chosen Naples after we had hesitated for a long time with Milan. Our desire for sun and pizza had temporarily saved us :-). When we returned from vacation, the children’s school asked us which region of Italy we were returning from because if we had stayed in the north, we would have had to quarantine ourselves. So I exhaled, relieved, without understanding that the whole world was going to end up in quarantine!

Anyway, after this long introduction, here is my article about our stay in Naples as a family. It was two months ago. I hope that this virtual visit will do you as much good as it did me and that you will keep this article handy for next year perhaps…

In the meantime, I highly recommend the four books in the saga L’Amie Prodigieuse ( L’Amica Geniale ) by Elena Ferrante. This story will immerse you in the life of the working-class neighborhoods of Naples in the 1950s. I read them in Italian which adds to the magic of the text because the alternation of Neapolitan dialect and Italian is a marvel! For me, it’s a personal journey into the Sicily of my childhood and into the stories my father tells me… That said, the people who read it in English also really liked it so I think that in all cases it’s an endearing, realistic and colorful read (only the last volume disappointed me). When visiting Naples, you inevitably pass by certain places described in the book. One more reason to plan a Neapolitan vacation!

view of Naples The view of the historic center of Naples and Capri in the distance

Naples with family, the program:

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A weekend in Stratford-upon-Avon in Shakespeare’s footsteps

We live two hours’ drive from Stratford-upon-Avon. It was therefore the perfect weekend getaway to discover this English town, the birthplace of William Shakespeare! What’s more, Stratford-upon-Avon is famous for the charm of its old Tudor-era buildings.

If you are passing through this part of England, between Oxford and Birmingham, don’t miss the chance to stop here. There are plenty of visits on offer, suitable for children. Ticoeur and Titpuce didn’t know much about Shakespeare’s work apart from Romeo and Juliet; and yet they really enjoyed discovering all the historic sites of Stratford-upon-Avon. You should allow two very full days to see everything. The best option is to buy the ticket that gives access to five Shakespeare-related sites (see here).

Houses and museums in Stratford-upon-Avon:

Shakespeare’s Birthplace :

It was a good idea to start with this house, as it tells the beginning of the story and details of Shakespeare’s childhood. He was born here in 1564, the son of a glover (you can even try on the gloves). You can see period furniture, including what is believed to be Shakespeare’s cradle. In some rooms, guides share anecdotes and answer our questions. They are particularly lovely with children.

Probably William Shakespeare’s first bed

Hall’s Croft :

This is the home where Shakespeare’s daughter lived with her husband, who was a doctor. Compared with Shakespeare’s birthplace, you can really sense the step up in status and wealth of the second generation. The house is very well preserved and contains beautiful furniture. You can also see all the medical equipment used at the time.

Anne Hathaway’s Cottage :

Anne was Shakespeare’s wife. She and her family owned this charming cottage a few kilometres from Stratford-upon-Avon. The house is not very large, but the setting is truly lovely. If I had to choose just one of the wider Shakespeare family homes, this would be the one!

Anne Hathaway’s Cottage

Mary Arden’s Farm :

This is where Shakespeare’s mother lived. By far, it was the children’s favourite house! The site is perfect for a family visit. You discover how life was organised on a large farm at the time. Actors bring the place to life: dressed as farmers, you can see them preparing a large fire, cooking, cleaning and looking after the animals. Throughout the day, there are workshops and activities for younger visitors. You could easily spend a lot of time here! For children, this is clearly the best of the five visits.

Shakespeare’s New Place :

Of the five visits included in the combined ticket, this was the one we liked the least. Perhaps the garden would be nicer in the sunshine… Not essential.

Shakespeare’s School (Shakespeare’s Schoolroom and Guildhall) :

The second favourite place for Ticoeur and Titpuce. They loved writing with a quill and learning what a school day was like in Shakespeare’s time. My only downside is that the entrance ticket is too expensive for what it is (it is not included in the combined ticket). No regrets, as the children enjoyed it.

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The centre of Stratford-upon-Avon is perfect for strolling around and admiring all the half-timbered houses… You also pass by the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, where Shakespeare is, of course, in the spotlight—but not only him! In fact, we saw A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens there.

The Royal Shakespeare Theatre

Our good addresses in Stratford-upon-Avon:

  • Accommodation: we stayed at the youth hostel YHA Stratford-upon-Avon. I’ve already mentioned it before: some youth hostels are completely suitable for families, with rooms for four or five people and kid-friendly communal areas. The Stratford-upon-Avon hostel is one of those that welcomes quite a few families. What’s more, although the place is a little old-fashioned, it does have plenty of character. Overall, it’s very affordable and was a really good option for one night. Another advantage for those on a tight budget is that you can cook your own meals. We tested the bar (excellent gin and tonic!) and the children loved the pool table.

  • Tea room: we recommend taking a short break in the warm and cosy setting of Hobsons Patisseries for a generous slice of English cake and, of course, a cup of tea!

***

In short, the whole family loved Stratford-upon-Avon and we all learned a great deal about William Shakespeare!

Other trips for Shakespeare fans:

  • A weekend in London to see a play at the Globe.
  • A break in Verona… A very beautiful small Italian city where Shakespeare, incidentally, never set foot!

Shakespeare on screen:

  • Shakespeare in Love by John Madden (1998)
  • Romeo + Juliet by Baz Luhrmann (1996), in cinemas or as a musical in London.
  • For children, you probably already know that The Lion King is inspired by Hamlet, even if I didn’t really see the “Hakuna Matata” side of Hamlet 😉

Edit 2026 :

The book and film Hamnet :

The novel Hamnet by Maggie O’Farrell offers a fictionalised yet compelling version of Shakespeare as a husband and father. The story is told from the point of view of Shakespeare’s wife, called Agnes in the book (in reality, her name was Anne), probably to highlight that this is a free interpretation of what may have happened. Shakespeare’s life is indeed poorly documented, and many mysteries remain. They did have twins, a girl and a boy. The boy was called Hamnet, and his story may be linked to the genesis of the famous tragedy Hamlet. I liked how the book immerses us in this harsh period, marked by the plague epidemic.

As for the film Hamnet by Chloé Zhao, actress Jessie Buckley is excellent. The story is less developed than in the book, but the settings are beautifully English. I hope this makes you want to come to Stratford-upon-Avon to learn more about Shakespeare!

I should still point out that the film was not shot in Stratford-upon-Avon (for practical reasons), but in the quieter village of Weobley (1 hour 40 minutes from Stratford-upon-Avon), at Cwmmau Farmhouse (2 hours from Stratford-upon-Avon), and in a studio-built replica of the Globe. But I’m counting on you to come and visit the real sites in Stratford-upon-Avon! It will be far more moving!

***

I’ll finish with a quote from Shakespeare that may well remind you of certain current political chaos :-).

“Tis the times’ plague, when madmen lead the blind.” King Lear, Shakespeare.
“It is the misfortune of the times that fools guide the blind”, King Lear, Shakespeare.

So? Tempted by a family weekend in Stratford-upon-Avon, following in Shakespeare’s footsteps?

A week in Menorca

After our family trip to Mallorca last year, we chose to discover Menorca this year: we wanted to enjoy the Balearic Islands but with fewer tourists because Mallorca is a beautiful destination but it is even more overcrowded in August than any other islands we know in the Mediterranean region.


In short: goal achieved! It was much less crowded than Mallorca because the capacity in terms of accommodation is much more limited; it also means that prices are a bit higher and that you have to book ahead.

Cala Macarelleta

Our itinerary for a week in Menorca with the kids:

Day 1: Late arrival in Ciutadella: first family walk in its picturesque port and amid its medieval alleys.

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Family holiday in Crete: our road trip through the western part of the island

At the beginning of Easter break, we went to Crete with the kids. A wonderful family trip that confirmed our fondness for Greece! Do you remember? Last April, we spent our holidays in the Peloponnese; then, in July, we sailed around Corfou in a sailboat. What do we love about Greece? The landscape, the climate, the low cost, the food (fresh fish!) and above all the warm welcome of the locals!

Here in Crete, we discovered amazing hospitality and generosity! In a word, a destination you shouldn’t hesitate to explore with your family! As Crete is a big island, we focused on the western part and I organized the road trip detailed below, for a duration of 9 nights. As far as the weather is concerned, we had 7 sunny days (18 °C and big blue sky) and 2 rainy days. Also, unlike the same time last year, the temperature of the water was quite cool (I’d say 16-17 °C), so we only bathed once. Let’s say that in April, it is entirely possible for the sea to be warmer, but there is no guarantee. Anyway, my program was more focused on hiking and sightseeing. The summits were still snowy. This early in April, on the most famous beaches of the island, we were lucky enough to be almost alone; during the summer it must be very crowded!

Crete with kids, Greece
Elafonisi Beach without the summer crowd. Isn’t life beautiful?

Family holiday in Crete: our itinerary

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A long week-end in Dorset

On Easter week-end, we went for a family getaway to Dorset, with the grandparents. Dorset is in the South of England, along the Channel, between Hampshire where we live, and Devon that we discovered in February. For this 3-day week-end, we settled in the seaside resort of Weymouth. We had such a perfect weather, that I was sorry I didn’t take my bathing suit. Besides, the beaches were crowded! The South of England really brings an air of holidays!

Our visits in Dorset

  • Durdle Door: probably the most famous place in Dorset! You have to admit it’s pretty heavenly! I’d rather specify something: you have to go up and then down quite a steepy cliff so you’d better think about sneakers!
Durdle door
  • West Bay: famous beach with wonderful golden cliffs that you probably have already seen on the TV show Broadchurch.
  • Lyme Regis: it’s the most famous spot of the coast for… fossil hunting! The children loved it!
Lyme Regis
  • Corfe Castle: a ruin full of charm in a setting so typically English! A National Trust site.
Corfe Castle
  • Weymouth : it’s the seaside resort where we chose to settle to visit the surroundings. In its very cute harbour, the children fish crabs while the parents drink pints 😊. There is also a big beach that was quite full! Not far from here, don’t miss the dunes. And a few kilometers away, the village of Abbotsbury.
Abbotsbury village
  • Bournemouth: huge beach with fine sand, bordered by coloured cabins! It was crazy how many people were here! We will go back on a quieter week-end!
Bournemouth

First Campervan outing of the year!

Since our excursions with our Campervan in the New Forest last Autumn, we hadn’t taken our camper out. Firstly, in Winter, it’s too cold for the children to sleep under the roof because the air passes through the fabric. Secondly, since our camper is French, we had a procedure to follow to register and insure it here (the first few months, it was okay because we were still covered by our insurance as tourists, but now, we are “English”!). Anyway, for this first spring excursion, we chose a combined formula. We booked a family bedroom in a farm for Ticoeur, Titpuce and their grandparents; while with Papa Voyage we slept in the camper on the farm field, with a view on the sea, and we gathered with the rest of the family to eat a delicious English Breakfast provided by our hosts. 

Practical information and good addresses to visit Dorset:

  • From Portsmouth, it will take you 1 hour by car to get to Bournemouth. If you are coming from London, it will take 2 hours. On the way, don’t miss the chance to explore the New Forest.
  • Accommodation: I recommend Swallows Rest, the farm where we stayed in the periphery of Weymouth. The children were amused by the “collection” of hens and the beautiful garden. The homemade breakfast is excellent!
  • Camping: we also love the small, simple campsite near Swanage – Tom’s Field Campsite. In just a few minutes’ walk, you can reach a wild cove where we love to swim: Dancing Ledge, with its little natural pool…
**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****

So, are you tempted by Dorset?

Week-end in Devon

For a week-end, we went in the South of Devon, between Dorset and Cornwall, by Torquay,  to discover the English Riviera. How did we have the idea to spend a couple of days in family in Devon? Well, I owe this good idea of a gateway in this beautiful part of England to Agatha Christie! Do you remember? A couple of weeks ago, I went to see And then there were none to the theater of Southampton. And while I was comfortably seated in my chair, I remembered that Agatha Christie’s house was located in Devon. I had stored this information in a little box in my brain because I like to visit the houses of famous people whose lives I’m interested in. Watching on the Internet, I found out that her house was only three hours away from our home; then I booked a room in a beautiful hotel in Torquay and there it was! Sometimes, it doesn’t take much for a traveling idea! On the other hand, I had no idea of what we could see in Devon! It’s only on the day before we left that I started to draft a little program for our week-end.

Dittisham (Devon – England)

The creeks of the English Riviera in South Devon:

Since we didn’t know the English Riviera, we were surprised by the landscapes we saw there: it looked like our French côte d’Azur! With palm trees, big villas, a dense vegetation and beaches so cute! I didn’t expect all these dream little creeks! To be honest, had it been a couple of degrees warmer, I would have bathed! The sea was clear, wearing turquoise and emerald shades… an air of summer holidays! So I will begin by showing you those coves we had a crush on around Torquay and Brixham:

Elberry Cove
Elberry Cove
Churston Cove
Churston Cove (picture taken with the drone)
Fish Cove
Maidencombe

Every time, the children loved the little paths that led to the creeks, for the adventure side… And I think Titpuce would have loved to bathe as well! At this time of year, we were alone, or almost alone, in those English “calanques“. It was perfect! We could easily have imagined that we were on a desert island. Great Britain! 😉

To reach those creeks, or to go from one to another when they were close, we followed the hiking path called the South West Coast Path. Altogether, this coastal path is 1.000 km long! (It’s the kind of hiking that I would enjoy!) We will probably walk on it again, or cross it, whether in Devon, Dorset, Cornwall or Somerset! (Well, yes, we intend to find the time to explore all of “our” South-West of England!).

Brixham and the Berry Head

We really liked Brixham, a little town with a nice ambiance, organized around a very active harbour. We observed the fishing boats, the fishermen’s traps and the coloured houses along the docks. There even was a pirate boat!

Brixham
Brixham

Right next to Brixham, we walked on the Berry Head, in a landscape that looks like the edge of the world… A long strip of land on the sea with high cliffs and dizzying views. We walked to the lighthouse (very small lighthouse, paradoxically!) then we had tea and cakes, under the sun, on The Guardhouse Cafe terrace.

Berry Head

Discovery of the Dart river: Agatha Christie’s house and the romantic landscapes…

Here we are! So we visited Agatha Christie’s house (Greenway): a beautiful visit, very detailed. Agatha Christie and her husband were quite collectors so their house is full of amazing objects: even if Ticoeur and Titpuce don’t know Agatha Christie, they were intrigued by this house, a real Ali Baba’s cave, English version 😊 Also, it is fully furnished, so it really feels like we are entering in the universe of the author, which is a real privilege, since Agatha Christie was a very discreet lady. We even could see her dressing, her clothes and hear a recording of her voice. At any rate, we do understand why Agatha loved this house: the location is unbelievable! Moreover, the setting inspired her book Dead Man’s Folly. The estate is on the Dart River’s edge and all the views from the garden are lightly romantic…

Greenway (Agatha Christie’s house)
Dart River
Agatha Christie might have been the Lady of the Camellias!

We spent a long time roaming through the garden. I didn’t expect it to be blossomed but with the temperatures we have been experiencing for the last couple of weeks, there were flowers everywhere: magnolias and especially the numerous species of Camellias. We had never seen so many versions of Camellias! A beautiful collection! And how lucky were we to be able to admire them in February! On their branches, there were a lot of adorable robins!

rouge-gorge
Hello you!

Still on the Dart river, facing Greenway, is the adorable village of Dittisham:

Dittisham

Then, from the village of Kingswear, we took a ferry to Dartmouth, another picturesque village where we ate a delicious Fish and Chips at Rockfish (they also have a restaurant in Brixham). We took our lunch away and ate while seated on the edge of the river. In Kingswear, we saw a steam train running: it might be nice to plan a journey on this old train with the children (some other time!).

Dartmouth

Not far from the river, on our way back to Torquay, we stopped to visit another house: Coleton Fishacre House & Garden. It’s a mansion from the 20s and it shows us the life of a wealthy family of that time: a visit you should plan if you like Art Deco and design. The children didn’t really enjoy the visit but they liked the garden. It was so exotic! With bamboos, huge ferns and a junglelike density! We walked until the different points of views on the sea…

Coleton Fishacre Garden

Torquay and Cockington

Torquay is the big seaside resort where we stayed. Since we prefer the little creeks and wild places we only stayed in Torquay to sleep. By the way, the sunset on the sea was an amazing pink!

Torquay

Torquay is very well located to move around this area. We never had to drive for a long time to visit or hike…

Not far from Torquay, you can’t miss the tiny village of Cockington known for its old thatched cottages.

Cockington

Where to stay in Torquay?

I have a very good address I’d love to share with you because I thought our little hotel was a beautiful discovery: The Charterhouse. The architecture of this thatched roof house is typical of the English Riviera style. The family suite is perfect because the children really have their own room to sleep in. The decoration is very neat and very British, the breakfast is gargantuan and delicious. And, if you go in the summer, there even is a little swimming pool.

**** When you book a hotel on Booking by following a link on my articles, it allows me to receive a small commission: it does not change the price for you and it helps me maintain the blog. So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! ****

And for our next time in Devon

Devon is big! During a week-end, we only focused on the Torquay-Brixham zone so I already established a list of what I would love to visit next time:

  • Dartmoor National Park
  • The old town of Totnes
  • The surroundings of Salcombe (South Devon)
  • The creeks of North Devon

We really loved our improvised getaway in Devon, on the English Riviera, so I thank Agatha 😉…

Broadsands Beach (right next to Elberry Cove)

What about you? Are you tempted by a family trip in Devon?

tulipes

3 family days in Amsterdam

We had already been to Amsterdam in the past, but it was the first time with the children. This new trip to Amsterdam was a multi-generational holiday since the grand-parents joined us there. It was the perfect city trip to have 3 generations interested! As I often say, what I miss the most in our part of England, it’s culture so I really wanted to stay in a city where culture would be highlighted. So we chose Amsterdam for a 3-day week-end. Moreover, we were very lucky because the weather was gorgeous, which is quite rare in February!

Our family strolls Amsterdam

Since we already knew the city and we wanted to adapt our stay to the children, we emphasised on Jordaan neighbourhood and we only spent a few amount of time in the hyper centre. Thus, as a family, we didn’t go to the Red Light District 😉. Another point: even if we avoided the touristic central part, from time to time, we smelled a few fragrances that were coming out of the coffee shops. That being said, the children didn’t even notice.

The canals in Jordaan neighbourhood:

It’s the perfect neighbourhood to wander along the beautiful canals bordered by buildings full of character. It’s strange because there is much less people than in the centre although it’s aesthetically and architecturally richer. Basically, I advise you to follow the Prinsengracht canal all the way, while making shorts in the perpendicular streets and the nearby canals. For example, don’t miss the Eglantiersgracht, Bloemgracht and Brouwersgracht canals. All along the Prinsengracht, you will find an endless choice of little cafés where you will be able to sit on the terrace, and from where you will quietly observe the life on the canal. We opted for this walking + coffee breaks version rather than a cruise on the canals because we wanted to take our time and avoid group visits. Anne Franck House is situated on the edge of the Prinsengracht canal (see below in the list of our visits).

tulipes

amsterdam en famille

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balade sur la tamise

1 day in London: walk along the River Thames

I’m continuing to show you around London, a city I’ve discovered many times as a family, on my own or as a couple. Today, I wanted to suggest a walk that will keep you busy for a good half day. This itinerary offers a great introduction for a first stay or a rediscovery of the English capital. Typically, it’s THE walk I do when we go to London with friends or family who don’t know the city, but it’s also a walk I love doing as a family, because along the Thames it is largely pedestrianised! So it’s ideal with children!

I suggest walking this route from east to west, from the Tower of London to Big Ben, mostly along the south bank. Of course, you can do the walk the other way round, from west to east, depending on where your accommodation is.

London: a walk along the Thames on the South Bank

By way of introduction, I should say that we’ve done this route many times with our children (with and without a pushchair). It mainly follows the landscaped walkway along the South Bank. For each stage, I’ll give you ideas for visits and good places to eat. I recommend fitting in only one or two visits along this walk. Otherwise, it just won’t fit into one day :-)… As you’ll see, it’s quite a distance in the end, so you need to enjoy walking, plan some breaks and/or take shortcuts (boat, bus or Tube)!

balade sur la tamise

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voyage à Malte

Our Autumn break in Malta

During the Autumn break, we spent a week in Malta. I was longing for warmth, sea baths, and the Mediterranean where I come from. Most of all, I needed to recharge my batteries after our first weeks in England. A change of life, especially as a family, is not so easy! Also, for Ticoeur and Titpuce, who started English school, the holidays were a very appreciated break to relax and enjoy our family cocoon…

The reason why we chose Malta is because there are not many destinations from our part of Southern England. But this option suited us perfectly. We had already travelled there twice – so it was the perfect occasion to discover some new things, but also to go back to the places that we loved. I don’t know how you feel about it, but, as for me, I enjoy to visit again a place that I loved. I am delighted to travel and discover new countries as much as I am enchanted to go back to places where I feel good. In Malta, I love the cultural aspect, the beautiful architecture of the old cities, the Mediterranean landscape, the stone walls that border the roads, the prickly pear trees, the Italian influenced cooking, the small ladders almost everywhere, that invite you to go down for a bath, and above all, I love it when Summer lasts until Autumn… That’s it: I needed Summer, bathing and culture !

What did we visit during our week in Malta?

  • The island of Gozo: our biggest crush of this Maltese trip… I already told you all about it in my blog post three days on Gozo.
  • Ghain Tuffieha beach: for us, it’s the most beautiful beach on Malta. The sand has a beautiful orange shade, the setting is quite wild, the water is not too deep but there are waves: my Ticoeur loved it! We spent an afternoon there, until sunset. It’s a perfect spot for sunset because it’s on the western part. (NB: there were little harmless pink jellyfishes – I don’t know, maybe it’s a matter of season?)

voyage à Malte

malte en famille

I take this opportunity to warn you that there are not so many beaches on Malta. There are many opportunities to bathe, yes, but not necessarily big beaches. Maltese inhabitants set up ladders along the rocky coasts, or they created natural pools like on this picture:

voyage à Malte

  • The towers of Maltese knights: everywhere on the Island of Malta, you will find remains of the towers that enabled to control and protect the island. Our favourite one is the Saint-Agatha Tower, the only red one…

voyage à Malte

  • Mdina: it’s the ancient city, it’s a journey into the past, it’s getting lost in the maze formed by the alleys of the citadel…

visiter Mdina Malte

  • In Rabat, alongside, we visited the catacombs. I don’t really know why but I am fascinated by the catacombs – I never miss an opportunity to visit some whenever it’s possible (you have to visit those of Palermo in Sicily!). Let’s say it gives another perspective of the culture of a nation. I thought that Rabat catacombs were interesting because of their structure and their number. The visit is a little bit repetitive because the galleries look alike, but you should see it, and the kids were intrigued.

voyage à Malte

voyage à Malte

  • Hagar Qim and Mnajdra Temples: I hesitated to go there because you have to know that those temples are located under sheds, so that they are protected from the wind and the sea… And, visually, it takes off a lot of the character of the place… But we overlooked this fact, I reframed the pictures (😉…) and we experienced this. The remains are from the IVth century BC! I was seduced by those sometimes enigmatic buidlings: the children as well, so no regret. Moreover, it’s not an expensive visit so you should go!

voyage à Malte

  • Valleta and the Three Cities: it’s the third time we are going there and we still love it, especially Birgu, the prettiest of the Three Cities, with its fort, and the Collachio area in which we can stroll far from any bustle. In Valletta, we didn’t visit the famous St John’s Co-Cathedral because we already did it the last time (and the entrance fee is expensive), but you should see it if you’re coming for the first time. This time, we focused on the gardens and the café terraces and it was perfect 😊 Between Valletta and Birgu we travelled by boat.

voyage à Malte
voyage à Malte

voyage à Malte
voyage à Malte

We also dropped by Sliema (by boat) to admire Valletta from the other side and to see again some salt works. But you have to remember to watch the sea, and ignore the concrete buildings of this seaside resort.

La Valette

  • Marsaxlokk: our first time in this fishermen town with photogenic boats (the luzzus). Look: they have eyes! And one of them even had soft toys! This little town is ideal for a terraced lunch on the waterfront.
  • voyage à Malte
  • malte en famille
  • St Peter’s Pool: a spot you mustn’t miss right next to Marsaxlokk. I love this kind of coves with turquoise water. It’s not adapted for young children, nor for people who don’t know how to swim. It’s a place where people go to jump or dive into the big blue sea. With Ticoeur, we had fun, but we had to reassure Titpuce who was afraid to see us disappear in the gap, even though it was not so high…

voyage à Malte
voyage à Malte

***

Practical information to visit Malta:

  • Which season? The first thing I want to insist on is that, for me, it’s a destination you should avoid in Summer (I forewarned you). Not only is it too hot, but also it’s overcrowded and there are traffic jams. That’s what the local people told us but I believe them because the island is not adapted to an important road traffic, and there are not so many beaches. That’s why, for me, it’s not an option. I went there once in January and twice in October and it was very good. Spring must be perfect as well. Concerning the temperature, this time we had 25° outside and 24° in the water. So we could bathe (although, there’s no guarantee of course…)
  • Where to stay? We had chosen 3 places to stay: 3 nights on Gozo, 2 nights in Mellieha (in this simple yet clean and spacious apartment) to visit the North of Malta and 2 nights in Birgu (in the very neat Casa Cara, an old and typical mansion – Be careful : you cannot climb on the terrace with the children) to visit the Capital and the South of the Island.
    ****
    When you book a hotel on Booking.com by following a link on my blog, it allows me to receive a small commission, and it does not change the price for you.
    So thank you very much to those who book the hotels we recommend! It helps me maintain the blog.
    ****

voyage à MalteMelliha Bay

On the picture below, Melliha downtown seems so peaceful in the first light of the morning, doesn’t it? Yet, on that night, our sleep was interrupted by… an earthquake! The epicenter was off the Greece coast. It’s the first time that it happens to us and we are glad we only experienced a small version! The children didn’t feel a thing. Happy little carefree angels…

voyage à Malte

  • The English side: The British past of Malta makes it easy to communicate in English with everyone (English is the official language). On the other hand, it also means that you have to drive on the left part of the road… Stay focused in the roundabouts, but otherwise, it’s easy, you’ll see! Obviously, for us, after two months in England, we are already trained 😊

Our good addresses in Malta

We ate well in Malta. The cooking is influenced by the Italian cooking, and it’s for the best! Moreover, the kids like it! Seafood and pasta are in the spotlight!

voyage à Malte

Cafés and Restaurants in Malta:

  • Crystal Palace: an institution in Rabat for quick eating the famous pastizzis (some sort of turnovers stuffed with green peas, or cheese, or chicken); it’s a Maltese specialty that allow you to eat cheap for lunch. You’ll find pastizzis everywhere on the island, but it’s true that the ones we ate there were particularly good, and warm, just out of the oven.
  • Fior di Latte, ice cream maker in Mdina: yummy! You’d think you were in Italy!
  • Café Society: for very good cocktails to taste in a very typical street in Valletta.
  • Osteria.VE: a little trattoria held by Italians. Pasta dishes are delicious. We ate there on our two evenings in Birgu.
  • La Reggia: very enjoyable terrace facing the fishermen’s boats in Marsaxlokk – the seafood cooking was very fine but less generous and a little more expensive than other restaurants of our list.
  • Bouquet Garni: Excellent choice of fishes – a little expensive but the quality is there.
  • Our good addresses on Gozo are in my Gozo blog post 🙂

voyage à Malte

So? Are you tempted by holidays in Malta?

salines de Gozo

Three days on the island of Gozo

Since I already knew Valetta and the northern part of the main island, during this third trip to Malta, I really wanted to spend time on Gozo, this island North of the Maltese archipelago. We devoted half of our holidays there and we were delighted we made that choice! We spent three nights there, in other words a little more than three days and it was the most beautiful part of our trip!

What did we love about Gozo? It’s the Malta of the past, it’s a quieter version of Malta, it’s following the rhythm of the local life. It’s lovely landscapes that offer many possibilities to bathe and to stroll in amazing natural settings… Also, maybe Gozo reminded me of the atmosphere of the Sicily of my childhood, with its inhabitants who get out in the evening, sitting on a chair in front of their house or in front of the sea, just to talk with their family, their friends, their neighbours. The gastronomy also reminded me of Sicily but that was everywhere on Malta!

Gozo was very peaceful. We met very few people during our long walks on the seaside… You might tell me it’s normal because of the season, October is calm… Yes, probably much calmer than during the Summer but on the island of Malta, there were many people! When we took the ferry between Gozo and Malta, it was like coming back to civilization!

In a little more than three days, here is our program on Gozo:

Sunday, October 21st: With the ferry, we get on Gozo around 3pm. Direction Marsalforn where we settled. Walk by the sea, right nearby, in Xwejni Bay, at the bottom of a very impressive clayey mound. The children have fun between the big rocks, and then, from here we went along the salt works for about 2 kilometres. Back to Marsalforn.

salines de Gozo

gozo en famille   vacances à Gozo

visiter gozo

Monday, October 22nd: We start with Ramla Bay, the red beach that Titpuce renamed “orange beach” and she was so right! Very beautiful beach, anyway! After the bathing, direction Tal Mixta cave from where we can enjoy a wonderful view on the beach. We also climbed to Calypso cave but we liked it a little less because we actually don’t see the cave!!! And the view is less beautiful than from the other one. Lunch in Xaghra then direction Victoria, the capital of the island: stroll in the citadel and around to appreciate the architecture of the buildings. Back to Marsalforn.

visiter Gozo

trois jours à Gozo

visiter Gozo

visiter Gozo

visiter Gozo

visiter Gozo

visiter Gozo  visiter Gozo

Tuesday, October 23rd: Direction the South of Gozo with a first step in the beautiful Mgarr-ix-Xini creek then long walk on the cliffs of Ta’Cenc. Lunch break in Xlendi. Then we explore the Western part of Gozo: picture break in Dwejra to enjoy the very wild seafront with its huge rock formations. There was even an arch until last year (the Azure Window) but it collapsed because of erosion. Although, even without the arch, the place is so worth it! We walk by Ta’Pinu church in Gharb. We end by two stops in the North-West: in Wield-il-Mielah to see the other arch (which hasn’t fallen yet…) but be careful because to see it, you have to come close to a cliff so you have to keep the kids away from it. Nearby, we wanted to bathe in Wied-il-Ghasri creek but since it has been raining a couple of hours earlier, and the wind blew strongly, the creek didn’t have its emerald shade anymore and the sea was too dangerous so we came back to Marsalforn.

visiter Gozo

gozo en famille

visiter Gozo

vacances à Gozo

vacances à Gozo

vacances à Gozo

Wednesday, October 24th: Ticoeur and Titpuce wanted to go back to Mgarr-ix-Xini to bathe. I enjoyed it very much as well! Yes, because, I forgot to mention that during all of our holidays, the sea water was 23-24°C! The same temperature than in the air… Then, direction Victoria again to attend a concert in St George Basilica (the inside is worth the visit, and unlike many other churches in Malta, this one has a free access). Late lunch in Victoria and direction the ferry to Malta!

vacances à Gozo

visiter Gozo

Practical information for a stay on the island of Gozo

How do you go to the island of Gozo? We arrived in the morning in Valletta airport where we rented a car. It takes about 40 minutes to go to the harbour in the North of the island. A ferry to Gozo leaves every 30 to 45 minutes and the crossing lasts about 25 minutes. Don’t be surprised: you don’t pay on your way there, but only on your way back (about 25 euros for a car and 4 persons).

Gozo for the kids? Ticoeur and Titpuce like little hikes, especially when the path is steep, when there is some relief and natural curiosities to observe, so they loved our walks on Gozo, especially those along the salt works and the climbing to the cave above the red beach. Concerning the bathing: be careful, some creeks or beaches are not always adapted to swim safely. There might be some tide, or a rough sea, and it’s not always at the same place, so you have to see directly there. We’ve had a lot of wind during our stay there so for us, Mgarr-Ix-Xini creek was the most adapted for a quiet bathing time as a family.

What about our next time on Gozo? The next time, we’ll do the excursion to the Island of Comino to see a beautiful lagoon with turquoise water. Of course, you have to avoid summer because this place is probably the most visited around here!

Our good addresses on Gozo:

  • Il-Kartell Restaurant in Marsalfon: amazing sea food and very generous plates! Roasted squid, spaghetti alle vongole and a waterfront terrace. Our favourite address!
  • Latini Wine & Dine Restaurant in Xaghra: also a specialist of sea food, nice terrace in the heart of the village with a beautiful view on the church.
  • The Cup Cake café in Victoria: perfect for a cheap lunch (good pasta plates… yes, I know, it has nothing to do with cupcakes!)
  • Jubilee Café in Victoria: to take a coffee on the counter or admire the vintage decoration inside before you continue your walk through Victoria.
  • The Black Cat Café in Victoria: for a gourmet break (muffins, carrot cakes, etc) … Too bad it’s such a little place…

  • Where to sleep? It doesn’t matter where you will find your accommodation. The island is very small so you can do everything, no matter where you start from. The four corners of the island are interesting so I don’t have any advice as to which geographic choice you should make. The most important thing is to choose a place that you like! We were in Marsalforn where we particularly liked the restaurant choice for the evening. I won’t give you the address of our apartment (Airbnb) because it was nice, but nothing more. In fact, I did the bookings last minute and the most beautiful accommodations were taken.

visiter Gozo

I had to wait a third trip to Malta to choose to settle in Gozo, but don’t do the same mistake! I recommend Gozo even for a first trip to Malta! It’s a staple and a real crush !

So? Are you tempted by Gozo?