Alicante and its surroundings in 2 days: our mother-daughter getaway

I have just spent a weekend in Alicante and the surrounding area with my young teenager. It had been a long time since we had visited this part of Spain. The Costa Blanca proved to be a very pleasant destination in early October, ideal for extending the summer. As is often the case when I organise a city break with Titpuce, I like to choose a city I already know (last time, we spent a mother-and-daughter weekend in Edinburgh). It means less preparation for me. In fact, I only organised this Alicante getaway about ten days beforehand.

A weekend in Alicante: what is there to see and do?

Alicante city centre has the advantage of being very manageable in size: we explored it entirely on foot. We managed to fit the following programme into one busy day, concentrating on El Barrio (the heart of the old town), Santa Cruz (the birthplace of the city), Mount Benacantil, where the ruins of Santa Bárbara Castle stand, the modern centre and finally Postiguet Beach. Here are all our discoveries:

Explanada de España

This is Alicante’s emblematic promenade: an elegant palm-lined pedestrian avenue running alongside the harbour. Underfoot, an impressive marble mosaic made from more than six million small tiles makes the walk a feast for the eyes. Titpuce and I walked along the Explanada de España several times during our stay, as it is an ideal route for crossing the city from east to west.

At the end of the promenade, beside the marina, stands Casa Carbonell, whose architecture is reminiscent of the French Riviera. This is no coincidence: the architect Juan Vidal Ramos took inspiration from the style fashionable in the grand seaside resorts of the early 20th century. It looks a little like the Hôtel Martinez in Cannes, don’t you think? In any case, the aim was to impress, as Enrique Carbonell, who commissioned the building, wanted to show that he had made his fortune. This textile industrialist became wealthy by supplying uniforms to the French army during the First World War. With grand ambitions, he wanted 365 windows for his casa: one for every day of the year!

Santa Bárbara Castle

Another Alicante must-see is the Castillo de Santa Bárbara, whose medieval remains tower above the city on Mount Benacantil, offering views across the whole bay. Admission is free and the walk is enjoyable. The usual option is to take the lift up and walk down, but Titpuce and I did the entire route on foot because we first visited the MARQ museum (see below), on the other side of the hill. We therefore climbed to the castle through the park on its northern slope. On the way down, we followed the more conventional route through Santa Cruz.

Santa Cruz

As we came down from the castle, we crossed the historic Santa Cruz district, whose blue-and-white houses give it a touch of Greece. Built on a slope, with steps and flowerpots everywhere, it is undeniably charming. Most visitors concentrate on Calle San Juan, Calle Toledo and Plaza del Carmen. The surrounding lanes are also very pleasant and much quieter, even if they are a little less picturesque. Overall, we really liked Santa Cruz, although it is not very extensive. To soak up the atmosphere and take our time, we stopped on the terrace at Camino de Sabores (see our recommended addresses below).

Alicante’s pretty squares

As I mentioned in the introduction, our day was very full given everything we visited. Nevertheless, we still found time for terrace breaks and to enjoy Alicante city centre’s pretty squares. Here are a few examples:

• Portal de Elche: with its huge ficus trees and café terraces, this square separates El Barrio from the modern city centre. The Rambla de Méndez Núñez, known simply as Alicante’s “La Rambla”, is just a short walk away and is lined with shops.

• Plaza Gabriel Miró, another square shaded by enormous ficus trees.

• Town Hall Square (Plaça de l’Ajuntament) in El Barrio: an elegant square dominated by the town hall’s beautiful Baroque architecture. Carrer Major, just behind it, is one of the city’s main thoroughfares.

• Plaza del Abad Penalva and Plaza Santíssima Faç, near the Co-cathedral of San Nicolás: two more lovely spots in El Barrio. This whole area was lively during the day and in the evening.

The mushroom street: Calle San Francisco

You cannot miss Calle San Francisco, nicknamed Calle de las Setas because this pedestrian street in central Alicante is dotted with a playful display of giant mushrooms. It reminded Titpuce and me of Alice in Wonderland. So why the mushrooms? The city installed them about ten years ago to attract tourists and families to a street that apparently used to have a rather poor reputation. It worked: the street, which was also pedestrianised, is now lively and pleasant, filled with bars, restaurants and shops. We felt completely safe there, as we did everywhere we went during our weekend in Alicante.

At its eastern end, Calle San Francisco meets Avenida Doctor Gadea, another pleasant avenue designed in a Rambla-like style.

MARQ, Alicante’s archaeological museum

Before climbing to Santa Bárbara Castle, we walked around Mount Benacantil to visit Alicante’s archaeological museum, which was a very pleasant surprise. We had hesitated because neither of us is particularly interested in archaeology. However, the experience was very positive thanks to the museum’s modern exhibition design. The sculpture not to miss in the permanent collection is the Lady of Guardamar: its style is so elaborate that we were amazed to learn that it dates from the 4th century BC. Our favourite part of the visit was the current exhibition of pre-Columbian treasures, El oro y el universo (until May 2027), featuring exceptionally delicate gold jewellery and objects. Titpuce and I both loved it. More information is available on the MARQ website (admission charge).

Please note: MARQ closes at 2 pm on Sundays and is closed on Mondays.

MACA contemporary art museum and the Basilica of Santa María

Both stand on the same square in El Barrio. We first admired the Gothic façade of the Basilica of Santa María, Alicante’s oldest active church, although we liked its interior less.

We then visited MACA, a very small contemporary art museum. A visit is therefore quick—we only spent 30 minutes there—but admission is free and you will encounter works by several well-known artists, including Miró, Picasso, Juan Gris and César Manrique.

Please note: MACA closes at 2 pm on Sundays and is closed on Mondays.

Postiguet Beach

At the end of our busy day, we stopped for a swim at Postiguet Beach, Alicante’s city-centre beach. It was crowded! The sea was 23°C, so swimming was very pleasant even though the water was not especially beautiful. We enjoyed the lively, local atmosphere on the beach.

Central Market

At the northern end of “La Rambla”, we visited Alicante’s Central Market. It is open on Saturday mornings but closed on Sundays, so we went on Monday morning before leaving for Altea. The market was not very lively, but the building has lovely architecture. The tram station for excursions along the Costa Blanca is also right next door!

Around Alicante: our day trip along the Costa Blanca

With only a weekend of two days and two nights, I had wondered whether we should venture out to explore the Costa Blanca, but I have no regrets! We had plenty of time to enjoy Alicante on our first evening, Saturday, and throughout Sunday. On our second day, we therefore took the tram for an excursion to Altea and Villajoyosa (see the practical information below). I should add that I only decided to stop in Villajoyosa on our way back from Altea, when I realised we still had enough time. As it lies on the tram route back to Alicante, you can make this decision at the last minute.

Altea’s whitewashed old town for a taste of Andalusia

1 hour 45 minutes by tram from Alicante: Line 1, changing at Benidorm for Line 9.

Both Titpuce and I absolutely loved Altea! If you only have time for one excursion from Alicante, this is the one we recommend. Upper Altea is magnificent and feels like an Andalusian white village. We loved its cobbled lanes, white houses, the blue-tiled domes of the Church of Nuestra Señora del Consuelo and its various viewpoints. We stopped for a drink on the terrace at El Racó, opposite the church. Streets not to miss include Carrer Major, Carrer Sant Miquel, Calle Salamanca and Carrer del Portal Vell. We then took the steps on Carrer Mestre de la Música down towards the sea.

The seafront was delightful, with intensely blue water. We should have swum there rather than in Alicante! We walked along the promenade and had lunch overlooking the sea. The view was superb, although the restaurant was merely all right (Restobar Casa del Mar). There are many other restaurants along the Passeig Marítim, so we will try a different one next time!

One last view of Altea’s old town from the tram station:

Villajoyosa: colourful houses and chocolate!

Two English women sitting opposite us on the tram told Titpuce: if you like chocolate, you have to get off at Villajoyosa! Villajoyosa was already on my list, but because of its colourful seafront houses. It is also home to the Valor chocolate factory, Spain’s leading chocolate brand. Looking at its website, I realised that our tram would arrive ten minutes before the final English-language factory tour, at 3 pm. It was a sign! We still had time, so we got off the tram (Line 1, Creueta stop) and hurried to the Valor factory. The free tour lasts 45 minutes. It was enjoyable, although I would not call it unmissable. It certainly smelled wonderful, and we bought several bars of dark chocolate with almonds—they were delicious!

We then headed for the seafront, the prettiest part of Villajoyosa, with its collection of vividly coloured houses. Fishermen painted them this way so they could recognise their homes from their boats.

Alicante with children

Alicante is perfect for a mother-and-daughter break, combining picturesque neighbourhoods, the sea and excellent food. These were my young teenager Titpuce’s favourite experiences:

In Alicante itself:

• The lanes of Santa Cruz
• Walking along the Explanada de España.
• The pre-Columbian art exhibition at Alicante’s archaeological museum.
• Tapas, aperitifs and breakfasts on terraces in Alicante city centre!

In the surrounding area:

• Altea, which she thought was adorable.
• The Valor chocolate factory in Villajoyosa.

Our favourite places in Alicante

Where to eat and drink in Alicante

• Vino y Más ❤: we loved this tapas bar on the mushroom street. It is very affordable and the staff were extremely friendly.
• Camino de Sabores: we simply shared a plate of squid here at lunchtime while enjoying the atmosphere in Santa Cruz. It was good, and I recommend the white sangria.

• La Taberna del Gourmet: a traditional choice for sampling the classics in a gourmet tavern. A friend from Alicante recommended it to me.
• Soho Parc: another good recommendation from my Alicante friend. Its leafy setting on Portal de Elche is very relaxing. The kiosk serves breakfasts and snacks from morning until evening. Come mainly for the surroundings.

• La Tasca del Barrio: we had dinner here and tried Alicante’s speciality, arroz a banda, a seafood rice dish similar to paella and cooked in fish stock. This old-town restaurant does not accept reservations, so it is best to arrive a few minutes before it opens.
• Mira Alta Terrace at the Eurostars hotel: we had a cocktail and a mocktail on this rooftop terrace overlooking Santa Bárbara Castle. Be aware that only three tables have the beautiful view. We tried our luck twice and succeeded on our second visit.
• Livanti Gelato di Sicilia: delicious ice cream in El Barrio, a short walk from the Co-cathedral of San Nicolás. As its name suggests, this is a Sicilian gelateria. I remain loyal to my roots: my family takes ice-cream quality very seriously ;-).

Where to stay in Alicante

I have visited Alicante three times, so here are a few accommodation suggestions:

In the historic district, at the foot of Santa Bárbara Castle, Hotel Boutique Ferrisa is very well located in the heart of the old town, yet quiet. The rooms are small but attractive, and the beds are very comfortable. Its terrace has a lovely view of the castle.

In the city centre, near Calle San Francisco, the Balmis Plaza Apartments are stylish and well located. Be warned, however: you should avoid staying there from Thursday to Saturday inclusive because they overlook a very noisy square, where popular bars remain open until the early hours. For stays from Sunday to Wednesday, however, they are a good option.

Planning a weekend in Alicante: practical information

Bus from the airport: we took the C6 bus, which runs every 15 minutes and takes only about 20 minutes to reach Alicante. A useful tip: we bought the non-personalised ten-journey card for about €10 rather than buying individual tickets, which cost around €4.60 at the time. We needed four journeys, two on the way in and two on the way back, so the ten-journey card was better value and left us with six journeys. They are valid for two years. I will give the card to my Alicante friend, who visits regularly. You can buy the card on board. As fares change, check the current prices before travelling.

The tram for our Altea and Villajoyosa excursion: our return tram journey to Altea cost €5 per person. Take Line 1, which runs every 30 minutes, then change at Benidorm for Line 9, which runs hourly. Alicante to Altea takes 1 hour 45 minutes, while Alicante to Villajoyosa takes one hour. We combined the two because Villajoyosa is on Line 1. Check the current timetable on the TramAlicante website.

What is the best season for visiting Alicante? I thought early autumn was perfect. On our previous visits we came in summer, when it was obviously too hot. I therefore recommend spring or the late-October school holiday for pleasant temperatures.

Beyond Alicante: Alicante is ideal for a weekend break, but it also makes a good stop on a longer journey through this part of Spain. On an earlier trip, we combined Alicante with the beautiful city of Valencia, which we particularly recommend with young children.

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How about you? Do you know Alicante and its surroundings? Would you like to visit?

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