Last summer, during our road trip through northern Spain, we spent a family day in the Bardenas Reales, in Navarre. This extraordinary semi-desert landscape feels like the set of a Western, and we had wanted to visit for a very long time!
The Bardenas Reales Natural Park covers 41,845 hectares and was designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2000. The Bardenas offer an arid, lunar landscape dotted with geological formations sculpted by the elements. We loved our family day in the Bardenas, with a good mix of the scenic driving circuit in the morning and a proper afternoon hike in a quieter part of the park. Even better, visiting the Bardenas is free!
Morning: the classic driving circuit through Blanca Baja
25 km driving circuit.
This is the essential circuit for a first visit to the Bardenas Reales, followed by almost every visitor. Many people complete only this circuit without exploring other areas of the park. In short, it is the must-see route!
Arriving when the park opens
To reach the park entrance, we drove via Arguedas on the N-134. This is the entrance to use for the main Blanca Baja visitor circuit.
We were worried about crowds, so we arrived when the natural park opened at 8 a.m. Yes, it has visiting hours! Part of the area contains a military firing range, and access rules and restricted zones must be taken seriously. We were the first visitors in the Bardenas that Sunday morning. We passed the Information Centre at Finca de Aguilares, which did not open until 9 a.m., and drove straight to the famous Castildetierra hoodoo, where we ate breakfast in peace. It was only 17°C.
At 9 a.m., we returned to the Information Centre. They gave us a map and explained the Blanca Baja circuit. It is very straightforward: there is a track, and you follow it without leaving the authorised route. Although I call it a track, there is no need to worry: it was smooth and easy during our visit. Before setting off again, we used the toilets at the centre.
The driving circuit is 25 kilometres long. The Information Centre recommends allowing two hours; we spent four! Yes, we really enjoyed it.
The Information Centre also recommended two walks for our itinerary that day:
- a short walk in Blanca Baja, included in our morning programme;
- a longer hike in Plana de la Negra, included in our afternoon programme.
You may stop beside the authorised route at suitable places to get out and take photographs, while respecting signs and restrictions.
The Blanca Baja circuit, step by step
We began with the emblematic Bardenas circuit, a large rectangular loop that we drove clockwise. Along the way, we crossed varied scenery: an immense plain, canyons, hoodoos and striped hills in graduated shades of sand, ochre and clay.
The Castildetierra hoodoo, point A on the official map, lies four kilometres from the Information Centre on the way to the start of the circuit. It is undoubtedly the best-known formation in the Bardenas.
A few hundred metres after Castildetierra, we reached an observation point with a lovely view near the beginning of the circuit, point B on the official map. Be careful: this was the only place on the loop where climbing was permitted. Elsewhere, visitors must remain at the foot of the formations. The 360-degree panorama is worth it:
We returned to the van and continued at a leisurely pace, stopping for photographs.
About three-quarters of the way around the loop, we came to a road heading north. We followed it for a few kilometres and returned the same way to see the variety of formations. It was pleasant, but not essential if you are short of time.
Short walk: Barranco de las Cortinas
Easy 1.2 km circular walk with no elevation gain
With the circuit almost complete, we passed Castildetierra again and this time followed the short walk recommended by the Information Centre: Barranco de las Cortinas. The path enters a small canyon and loops around the formation, allowing you to appreciate the relief and cracks in the arid ground. It was now noon and 21°C, still very pleasant in midsummer.
As we left Blanca Baja, we stopped near the Information Centre to buy local honey from a beekeeper selling from his van. The Miel del Moncayo was excellent, and I still enjoy this souvenir with yoghurt at breakfast!
Afternoon: a family hike in Plana de la Negra
Following the Information Centre’s recommendation, and because we love hiking and did not want to limit ourselves to a driving tour, we headed towards Bardena Negra to complete the Peña del Fraile hike near kilometre 22, point C on the official map. The landscape in Plana de la Negra is very different: it has more relief and vegetation, including pine trees, and we enjoyed gaining height for broader views over the surroundings.
The Peña del Fraile hike:
This 4.6 km out-and-back hike took us 1½ hours and involved about 200 metres of elevation gain. We were completely alone.
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Where to stay when visiting the Bardenas with kids
By campervan:
As you can see in the photographs, we were travelling by campervan, but camping and overnight stays are strictly prohibited throughout the Bardenas Reales. General visiting hours run from 8 a.m. until one hour before nightfall. Access restrictions must be taken seriously, particularly around the military firing range. Nearby municipalities provide large free parking areas for campervans and motorhomes, which is a very useful service.
We stayed at the free motorhome parking area in Ribaforada.
It lacks charm and could be unpleasant when busy, but in late July there were only a handful of vehicles. We ate our picnic in front of the van. According to Ticoeur, the toilets were not particularly good, but it is still a free and conveniently located parking area.
Accommodation near the Bardenas:
If you are not travelling by campervan, it is best to stay in one of the villages near the park entrance so that you can arrive when it opens. For example:
- This four-bedroom holiday home with a terrace in Arguedas.
- This simple, good-value two-bedroom apartment in Arguedas.
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Our tips for visiting the Bardenas with kids
- Summer crowds: we were pleasantly surprised by how quiet it was in late July. By arriving when the park opened, we even had Castildetierra to ourselves.
- Heat: during our visit, the temperature was only 17–21°C in late July. We were lucky! Summer temperatures can become unbearable, so be prepared to change your plans or consider spring or autumn instead. We had hats, trainers and sun cream. Take plenty of water for the Peña del Fraile hike. The driving circuit is more manageable in hot weather if your car has air conditioning, but always follow official heat and access warnings.
- Food: the previous evening, we had bought large empanadas at Mercadona – the children like the tuna ones – and ate them in front of Castildetierra while admiring the formation. We brought a picnic lunch and ate it at the starting point for our afternoon hike.
- Car: as mentioned above, the track was smooth and easy during our visit, so an ordinary vehicle was sufficient. Make sure you have enough fuel. Rain can make tracks difficult or cause closures, so check current park notices before entering.
- By bicycle: bicycles can be hired for the Blanca Baja circuit, although spring or autumn would be more suitable. There are nine cycling routes. We would not attempt it in summer heat without shade. We passed a few experienced-looking cyclists, but temperatures were well below the seasonal average during our visit.
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Do you love deserts? For another Spanish desert landscape, read about our family hike in the Gorafe Desert and visit to Guadix in Andalusia.
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Would you like to visit the Bardenas? For us, it was a wonderful stop after our family week in Aragon!
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