Hiking in the Gorafe Desert with the Family was one of the highlights we had in mind for our latest trip to Andalusia. After exploring the main Andalusian cities and the famous white villages on previous visits, we were keen to discover the “desert” side of the region. And as you know us, we love family hikes! So, the famous 24 km hike in the Gorafe Desert seemed like a perfect plan—admittedly a bit of a challenge, but nothing we couldn’t handle.
We based ourselves in Guadix to explore the desert. This town in eastern Andalusia is famous for its cave houses. The village of Gorafe is just a 30-minute drive away, making Guadix a convenient base. Plus, the area around Guadix is full of other stunning desert landscapes to discover, including the Badlands.
Why the Gorafe Desert is so captivating
The Gorafe Desert is full of striking geological formations in shades of ochre and red. It forms part of the Granada Geopark, a UNESCO-recognised site of geological and cultural importance. You’ll see large ravines that might remind you of the American West. In fact, it’s funny—when trying to describe the Gorafe Desert, references to the US keep popping up. Those Americans really are masters of marketing! They’ve planted the image in our minds, while ironically, seeing the western US could just as easily make you think: “Wow, this looks just like the Gorafe Desert!”
If you dream of wide-open spaces, canyons, and real escapism, Andalusia is a must. The Gorafe Desert won’t disappoint—it’s a real favourite of ours.
A quick warning: the renowned Ruta del Desierto de Gorafe leading to Los Coloraos is tough—not technically, but because of its length and elevation gain.
Before we went, there was very little information on whether families could tackle this hike. Even without children, it seems few people walk this route. Now that we’ve done it, though, we can confidently say it’s the best way to experience the desert—and we hope this guide helps sporty families who want to give it a go!
Our Family Hike in the Gorafe Desert
Here are the key details of our hike:
- 24 km loop: it’s long. Children should be used to long walks. We completed it in 6½ hours, including a 30-minute lunch break—so 6 hours of walking in total.
- Halfway along, at the furthest point, you reach the famous viewpoint Los Coloraos, where the geological formations are most colourful, with shades reminiscent of a Western movie! Yes, I know—I’m comparing it to the US again! Pfff!
- Elevation gain of 753 metres: we’ve tackled this kind of climb in the mountains before, but two things made it tricky here. First, the trail starts by descending into a canyon, meaning the easiest section comes first. By the time you reach Los Coloraos, the hard part is still ahead! Psychologically, this is tougher than summiting a mountain—at least then, the worst is behind you. Second, a 753-metre climb in the Alps on a cool day is one thing, but in southern Spain, it can get hot. We were there in April, a lovely season, but the desert temperature swings quickly. Starting at 9am, it was 13°C, soon climbing to 16°C—perfect. After lunch, we faced the climb back in 24°C heat, which made those 753 metres feel even tougher, especially with little shade.
- Trail conditions: there’s no technical difficulty as the path is a 4×4 track. It’s wide, comfortable, and easy to follow. The route is signposted as PR-A 426. In 6½ hours, we only saw one 4×4! These excursions are pricey, so traffic is rare. We also planned to hike on a weekday, in case Granada locals visited at weekends.
If you’re still reading, you’re probably feeling up for it! For children used to hiking, it’s very manageable. This is not a beginner’s hike, nor is it for very young children. Ticoeur and Titpuce were 14 and 12 at the time. More important than age is whether your kids can walk 6 hours with a serious climb. Shall we go?
The Ruta del Desierto Loop via Los Coloraos
We started the Gorafe Desert trail at 9am. To reach the start, drive to the village of Gorafe and follow the signs upwards. We parked at the trailhead, completely alone, next to a large information board. We chose to hike clockwise, but honestly, it doesn’t matter much. The advantage of our direction is that you see the most beautiful and varied landscapes first. If you don’t complete the loop, you can always turn back and you’ll already have seen plenty.
And we’re off!
We soon felt immersed in this exceptional geopark:
The snowy Sierra Nevada looms in the distance…
The landscapes keep changing as we move forward…
Two hours in…
And onwards…
Feels a bit like Colorado, doesn’t it? 🙂
We reach the viewpoint Los Coloraos, halfway through the loop (about 12 km). It’s the most famous viewpoint in the Gorafe Desert—but honestly, the scenery was beautiful all along the way. Even if you tire before reaching it, you’ll have seen incredible views.
We stopped for a picnic at noon after three hours of walking, finding some shade in a bend. After lunch, it was time to climb out of the canyon—and it felt hot!
We passed the Barranco de Los Anchurones:
As I mentioned, the climb back is challenging. We spotted a 4×4 camper van struggling on the track, which had large ruts on the second half of the route.
Passing the Cerro de la Bandera:
We continued to climb, slowly but surely, discovering more stunning formations in lighter shades:
We were almost done when we spotted the glass house (a hotel) at the start of the hike. Fun fact: this house appears in an episode of Black Mirror. I’ve watched many episodes of this TV series, but I hadn’t seen this particular one.
The final stretch winds through an almond orchard:
Back at the car, we hadn’t encountered any other hikers—the car was still alone. We’d brought plenty of water, which we drank during the second half of the hike! Exhausted and thirsty, we returned to Gorafe village and ordered two drinks each at the first bar we found. As I mentioned earlier, 24°C with no shade really feels hot! Everyone was wearing trousers—hiking trousers that convert to shorts would have been ideal for the climb back. And of course, don’t forget hats and sunscreen!
Options for Discovering the Gorafe Desert as a Family if the Hike is Too Challenging
- Shorten the hike. This is the best option if 24 km feels too much. Even the first few kilometres are stunning! 2, 3, or 5 km—choose a distance that suits your children and turn back whenever you like. Don’t be disappointed if you don’t reach the Los Coloraos viewpoint—the views are incredible from the very start.
- Take a 4×4 tour: I mention this mainly to warn you that you might encounter 4x4s on the trail, as it doubles as a track. Personally, I don’t recommend it. Walking allows you to really absorb the scenery. Plus, we hope hikers won’t see more than one 4×4 like we did—luckily, we only saw one! These tours are expensive anyway, which keeps traffic low.
- Drive to the Los Coloraos viewpoint: With a normal car, you can do the first half of the loop as an out-and-back. The second half is too rough. But in my opinion, driving is less rewarding than walking. It’s better to do a short hike. Even if the track is decent in the first section, a rental car wouldn’t be covered for damage. Avoid it!
- Electric bike: At the end of the hike, we saw a young couple preparing to cycle the loop on e-bikes. Fine for a couple used to rough tracks, but I couldn’t do it! For a family, it’s tricky—even with e-bikes, there’s a big climb and rough terrain. Plus, for four people, rentals would be costly.
In short, adjust the hike to your fitness, motivation, and family hiking experience. Bring plenty of water and soak in the views!
Our Guadix Accommodation: a Charming Cave House
Gorafe is an hour east of Granada, so it’s possible to visit from the city. But for a 24 km hike, staying closer makes sense. Gorafe village has some lovely cave accommodations, but they were pricier than in Guadix, a small town 30 minutes away. So, we compromised. We stayed in Guadix for two nights at this wonderful cave house. We loved it—highly recommended!
The accommodation is in Guadix’s cave house district, on the outskirts of town—a very typical area. Our cave house was comfortable, with a kitchen, bathroom, two bedrooms, a small courtyard, barbecue, and even a tiny pool (water too cold in April!). Highly recommended.
Here’s the cave district. Not long ago, it was mainly inhabited by Romani people. Today, there are some locals and several tourist accommodations.
This district is different from central Guadix. Approaching the town by road, you first see the modern, less charming part. Then you discover a small, pleasant historic centre where we strolled in the early evening near the cathedral and castle.
For food in Guadix, we recommend the bar-churreria Cafetaria Versalles, serving excellent churros with hot chocolate—perfect before a family hike. It opens early, so we went at 7:30am:
We also enjoyed cooking in our cave house courtyard, but on our last night we tried a local restaurant: Braseria La Tinaja, a large grill-restaurant at the town edge. Very popular, with a friendly waiter, lively atmosphere, generous portions, and excellent value!
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The Badlands Around Guadix
Another perk of staying in Guadix is being able to enjoy the Badlands landscapes. Guadix is part of the geopark, and the scenery is very similar to Gorafe. Just a few minutes from the town, there are several viewpoints accessible by car. If you haven’t done the full Gorafe Desert hike, you can opt for shorter walks in the Badlands. Here are three viewpoints we visited by car.
First, the viewpoints at Purullena and Marchal, right next to each other, offering beautiful panoramas:
Next, the viewpoint at Beas de Guadix:
Finally, we left the Badlands via a scenic road. Our next destination? Granada!
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In Conclusion:
I hope I’ve inspired you to explore this corner of southern Spain. The Gorafe Desert and Guadix region offer breathtaking, cinematic landscapes. The Gorafe Desert hike is challenging, but you can always shorten it. Staying in Guadix lets you see a lesser-known, quieter side of Andalusia. Spring seemed ideal for this region—avoid the summer heat.
And if you enjoy family hikes, check out my article on the Caminito del Rey hike in western Andalusia—it’s very easy. Next time we return to Andalusia, we plan to explore another desert: the Tabernas Desert!
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So, are you tempted by the Gorafe Desert and the Guadix region?