During the Easter holidays, we spent 2 days in Lisbon as a family. We had already been to Lisbon with the children when they were little. Now, we are parents of two teenagers! That changes the programme a bit. Not completely, but let’s say we adapt to their tastes and their pace. I therefore wanted to write this article to share this visit to Lisbon with our teenagers. Ticoeur is now 15 and Titpuce 13. We made some new discoveries and revisited a few must-see places.

To put this stay in Lisbon into context, I should mention that we set off on a road trip in the Algarve, in the south of Portugal, and combined it with a two-day (and two-night) stopover in Lisbon. The last time we were in Portugal, we also combined the two. It’s a great way to enjoy nature-focused holidays in the south as well as cultural visits in the Portuguese capital.

Right, let’s get started with exploring Lisbon with teenagers!

3 viewpoints not to be missed in Lisbon

First of all, let’s talk about the big advantage of exploring Lisbon with older children: they can walk and climb! Because Lisbon is a very hilly city! As I mentioned back then, with young children it’s quite a workout, whether you have a pushchair or are carrying them! It’s really not the easiest city with little ones if, like us, you enjoy discovering a city on foot. In short, our two beloved teenagers walk (yes, really!) willingly and energetically, so we took advantage of that to reach three beautiful viewpoints over the city of Lisbon.

Mirador da Graça

This mirador is higher than the others, making it the most demanding of the three. At the top, here is the panoramic view, with the Tagus in the distance:

On the left, zooming in a little, you can see the Castelo de São Jorge, a castle we didn’t revisit this time:

Mirador das Portas do Sol

We already knew this viewpoint, which is right in the heart of the Alfama district, our favourite neighbourhood in Lisbon. I think it’s the most beautiful of the miradors, the one not to be missed if you only visit one. We had a coffee there (there’s a kiosk on the panoramic terrace). The perfect break!

Mirador de Santa Luzia

This mirador is just a stone’s throw from the previous one, a little lower down, still in Alfama. You’ll notice the azulejos on its balcony.

As these two viewpoints are in the Alfama district, it’s the perfect opportunity to wander through the charming streets of the area.

You’ll come across street art and also the famous Tram 28, which is known for tackling some very steep slopes. We preferred to watch it go by rather than take it, as it was always packed. And if you’re inside it, you can’t see it anyway :-).

The National Azulejo Museum

We usually always take advantage of a city break to visit one or two museums, but not too many either. When the children were little, we chose to go to the aquarium (they loved it). Now that they’ve grown up, we opted for a more cultural visit, to the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. It’s a great way to see how this art of decorative wall tiles has evolved over the centuries. We particularly liked the cloister:

The building itself is beautiful and the collection is very rich. At the end, you’ll find the museum’s most precious piece: a 23-metre-long panel depicting Lisbon in the 18th century, before the great earthquake.

We therefore recommend visiting the Azulejo Museum. But if your children are younger or if you’re not really into museums, bear in mind that simply walking around Lisbon, you’ll already see a wide variety of azulejos on the façades of certain buildings. The city itself is an open-air tile museum!

In the streets of Lisbon

Leaving the Azulejo Museum, we took a stroll around the Pantheon:

A family Fado evening

With teenagers, it was possible for us to enjoy a lovely family evening in a Lisbon bar with a Fado concert. I was really keen to have this experience, as I love these melancholic songs that are part of the country’s cultural heritage. What’s more, with Titpuce singing, I always find it interesting to introduce her to different musical styles. You won’t struggle to find paid shows all over central Lisbon, in areas like Chiado or Bairro Alto, but I didn’t want a seated concert-style performance. I wanted the warm atmosphere of a bar.

The Duque da Rua bar:

I found this tiny bar that was exactly what I was looking for. I tried to book a table two days in advance and it was already full! The owner, who was lovely, told me to try our luck on the evening itself during the singers’ break, as some customers sometimes leave at that point. The singers perform from 8 pm to 11 pm. We showed up outside the bar around 9:30 pm and nobody came out during the break! We stayed outside anyway, as the door is glass and the sound reached us. The singers smiled at us as if we were part of the audience. Around 10 pm, the owner came to tell us that a few people had asked for the bill. We were then able to enjoy the last part of the singing, with a drink. We loved the intimate setting and the warm welcome. It’s also a very budget-friendly option, as you only pay for your drinks (very affordable), whereas organised shows around the city can quickly become expensive for a family! So now you know all about this great address – but you do need to be motivated, as it’s not easy to get a seat!

On the way out, we walked back through Bairro Alto by night:

Largo do Carmo

The Jerónimos Monastery

When we had passed by with Ticoeur and Titpuce as toddlers, there were huge queues, it was hot, and we preferred to let the children play in the park opposite rather than visit the monastery with them. We had already visited the inside of this magnificent building as a couple a long time ago. This time, with our two teenagers, and despite a still very long queue (even with tickets bought in advance), we patiently waited a good half hour. The visit inside takes about half an hour, but it’s well worth it. The Gothic and Manueline architecture of the building is stunning. We visited right at closing time, which was perfect, as the place gradually emptied and became increasingly peaceful. We also visited the church section (free entry).

Pastéis de nata – there’s no age limit for enjoying them!

Let’s be clear: your teenagers will love them, your younger children too – and so will you! Who doesn’t love pastéis de nata? Especially those from Pastéis de Belém, where they’ve been made since 1837. It’s just a stone’s throw from the monastery, making it perfect for an afternoon treat before or after your visit. I really think they’re better than anywhere else: ultra-fresh, with perfectly flaky pastry and a slightly salty note. All that’s left is to sprinkle on a bit of cinnamon!

To digest, we walked along the Tagus towards the famous Belém Tower, located further west. We didn’t revisit it, as we didn’t find the interior visit particularly worthwhile. On the other hand, it’s very beautiful from the outside!

Still along the riverfront, walking back towards the monastery, you’ll find the Monument to the Discoveries. Less elegant, but impressive and typical of post-war architecture:

Revisiting Lisbon’s must-sees:

No matter how many times you go to Lisbon, there are places you always pass through:

Commerce Square (Praça do Comércio):

It’s majestic and marks the entrance to central Lisbon. All roads lead to this square.

The Santa Justa Lift in the Chiado district:

A beautiful early-20th-century lift. It’s located in Chiado, Lisbon’s main shopping area. We didn’t take it, but admired it from below, then climbed up through the streets to reach the upper level and enjoy a view similar to the one you get from the lift – for free.

Here’s the view over the lovely Praça do Rossio:

The Bairro Alto:

This is the neighbouring district. It’s the livelier area at night, with bars and restaurants. We just passed through for an aperitif (see good addresses below).

On the other side of the Tagus: Cristo Rei

To enjoy more views over Lisbon and to take a step back before leaving the city, we went to the foot of Cristo Rei on the other side of the Tagus. It was an opportunity to recap what we had visited in Lisbon and to admire the impressive 25 April Bridge (it’s noisy!). For us, it was more of a stop for the view and to say goodbye to Lisbon. The statue certainly made us feel very small. We didn’t pay to take the lift, as the view from below was already excellent. Note that parking at the site is currently free, but a paid parking system was being installed. This will probably be in place by summer 2025.

Since we were already on this side of the Tagus, we went to explore this bank, which belongs to the city of Almada. It’s very different from the atmosphere in Lisbon. It’s rather quiet, sometimes feels a bit run-down and not very well maintained. Still, we passed through one or two streets that had some charm. We liked the terrace of the café Coisas Degostar at Casa da Cerca (a small museum that was closed). This terrace is nice for the view and for good local pastries. I’d say it’s not worth making a special trip for, but it’s pleasant if you’re passing by. From Lisbon, if you’re not travelling by car like we were, you can reach Almada by bus. Otherwise, you can take a ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas.

The terrace of Coisas Degostar facing Lisbon – there are chairs too 🙂

Our favourite addresses in Lisbon:

• Our accommodation: our apartment with a view over the Tagus was excellent value for money, very comfortable, with two bedrooms and a balcony overlooking the river. It’s convenient for exploring the Belém Monastery area, and there’s also a wide choice of buses and trams to reach the centre and further east.
• The restaurant O Português: a real favourite in the Chiado district. We had dinner there twice. Refined, generous cuisine in a very pleasant vaulted room. We highly recommend it! The aubergine tartare is incredible!
• The wine bar Baco Alto in Bairro Alto. We stopped there for an aperitif. Great wine selection and excellent white sangria. The owner is lovely and full of good advice.
• The bar Duque da Rua to listen to Fado (see above).

Transport and excursions from Lisbon:

• Parking: we found several car parks offering very affordable daily rates. To choose the most convenient one for your accommodation, you can compare them all and check prices on the Parkopedia website (some spots are around €5–6 per day).
• Buses and trams: we simply bought tickets on board at the machines inside. It’s a bit more expensive than buying in advance, but very convenient.
• Visiting Sintra: we went there on our previous trip. It’s close to Lisbon and easily reached by train or car. There, you can visit two beautiful palaces.
• Cascais: a pleasant destination not far from Lisbon, but not a favourite for us. You can get there very easily by train.
• From Lisbon to the Algarve: we travelled to Lisbon from the Algarve (2 hours 30 minutes by car). Last time, we did the same journey by train (3 hours). We spent one week in the Algarve.

 

Who’s planning a trip to Lisbon with teenagers soon?