Visiting Camden is very often on the agenda of anyone travelling to London. In particular, if you are in London with your family and have teenagers with you, there is a very good chance that this area will appeal to them! It’s an alternative, offbeat, slightly rock-and-roll neighbourhood – and therefore very cool! The first time I went there, I was 15. It was on a school trip. Camden left a strong impression on me because of its atmosphere and its “underground” style. For those who, like me, knew Camden in the 80s or 90s, I should point out that it has changed quite a bit since then! Camden Market no longer looks like a flea market full of “bad guys”!
Camden Market is now more polished, more touristy, almost “bo-bo” (bourgeois-bohemian)… The market shops have been redone and renovated, and food stalls have taken the place of the old little craft and knick-knack stalls of all kinds. The first time I went back, I was even a little disappointed not to find the old spirit. It’s less quirky, less “a change of scenery”. That said, if it’s your first time in Camden, it’s still a very distinctive area that’s well worth spending a few hours in – especially with pre-teens and teenagers. What’s more, from Camden there is a walk that I really like, along Regent’s Canal. It lets you see a completely different side of London. Very few tourists take the time to walk along the canal from Camden to Little Venice (1 to 1.5 hours on foot). And yet, it’s well worth it! On the way, you can make a detour via Primrose Hill for a lovely distant view over London. Between exploring Camden and the long walk along the canal, you should almost plan a full day (with breaks), or a well-paced long half-day! So? Follow me on this family walk in London, from Camden to Little Venice.
Visiting Camden: the market, its vintage shops and its quirky atmosphere
You arrive in Camden via the “Camden Town” underground station. From there, by taking Camden High Street, you’ll quickly be plunged into the area’s scenery with its decorated façades. As I said above: in the past it was similar, but the paintings weren’t all brand new and the people were more original :-).
Then you’ll head towards the market, Camden Market, which starts just after the lock (Camden Lock):
You’ll then wander through the maze of market alleys. You’ll see what I mean when I say that the stalls are all shiny and new, and that there are far more places to eat than back when we were teenagers :-). You can smell world cuisines at every corner. There are stalls for eating on the go, but also places where you can sit down. For a quick bite, I recommend for example the Indonesian stall Pinos Warung, falafels at Basta Falafel & Grill, or the Peruvian stall Quinoa Arepa. But there are so many others! Something for every taste.
For a sit-down meal (much more practical with a family), we really like the chain Honest Burger. They have a restaurant in Camden Market and even a terrace when the weather is nice. There are also small stalls that offer seating inside transparent bubbles, sheltered from the wind and rain. I really don’t like that at all! I find it completely spoils the place! And if I eat outside, I’d rather actually be outside than feel shut inside a bubble.
Visiting Camden: in the footsteps of Amy Winehouse
You probably already know this: Amy Winehouse lived in Camden. So there are several tributes to her in the area.
First of all, in one of the alleys of Camden Market (more precisely in the heart of what is called the Stables Market), you’ll come across a statue of Amy Winehouse. This statue has been there since 2014. It’s a creation by the artist Scott Eaton. In fact, I walked straight past it without seeing it because it’s life-size and Amy wasn’t very tall! I was expecting some kind of big, imposing sculpture. But actually, it’s better like this! Without heels and without a beehive hairstyle, she must have been really small!
To see street art on the theme of Amy Winehouse, you need to leave the market area and walk through the surrounding streets… Here are a few examples, but there are others!
Here is, in my opinion, the most beautiful piece of street art dedicated to Amy Winehouse. It’s a bit hidden as it’s not on a busy street. Type “Amy Winehouse Mural by JXC” into Google Maps to locate it:
If you’re a really big fan and want to see where Amy Winehouse lived, then head to her last address: 30 Camden Square. And her favourite pub: The Hawley Arms.
By the way, just a stone’s throw away, you’ll find a style of houses that feels more like the Notting Hill neighbourhood than Camden:
From Camden: the walk along Regent’s Canal
After your tour of the market and the surrounding streets – possibly after a lunch break (it’s a must!) – head back towards the lock, as it’s an easy way to find the canal again. The off-the-beaten-track walk I’m suggesting now starts at the lock (Camden Lock). From here, it’s simple: follow the canal (Regent’s Canal) westwards, mainly along the north bank (you’ll see there isn’t much choice anyway). After about 10 minutes of walking, you’ll probably have left the tourists behind. It becomes very quiet – sometimes so quiet that you wonder whether you’re really still in London! There are a few spots that look quite abandoned, but fortunately there are also many charming places and plenty of variety along the way… You’ll pass a large red pagoda (it’s a restaurant), then walk alongside the zoo. Just after the zoo, that’s where you can take the slope on your right and make a detour via Primrose Hill: a small hill offering a nice, though fairly distant, view over London.
If you go up Primrose Hill, you’ll need to come back down to the canal to continue the route. You’ll see impressive wealthy homes as well as others that are much more modest and bohemian. There are quite a few narrowboats on the canal: tourist boats passing through, and above all residential houseboats.
As I’ve done this walk several times, you’ll see a mix of seasons in the photos below…
The walk takes about 1 to 1.5 hours from Camden. And here we are, approaching Little Venice. A sort of mini Venice. It doesn’t look anything like Venice really, but well, there’s a canal and it’s pretty!
Of course, you can also do the walk in the opposite direction, from Little Venice to Camden! There you go! I hope you’ll enjoy this London walk! And of course, to keep me company while writing this article, I listened to Amy Winehouse’s album Back to Black!
Don’t hesitate to check out my other must-do walking ideas in London, such as central London or the walk along the Thames.
Finally, you can also find my special guide to accommodation in London.
And you? Do you like the Camden area? And do you know Regent’s Canal?